- A watertight, 4-inch diameterSchedule 40 PVC pipeshould connect the septic tankto the plumbing drains of the home. Slope the pipe1/4 inch per foot (1/8 inch per foot minimum) toward the tank. can a homeowner install a septic system?
How deep do you bury a plastic septic tank?
Whatever the case may be, knowing the depth of your septic tank can be a difficult thing given the circumstances, especially if you don’t know where the lids are. The general rule of thumb is that most septic tanks can be buried anywhere from four inches to four feet underground.
How do you keep a plastic septic tank from floating?
How can you prevent this from happening?
- Fill the tank with water after it’s pumped to keep weight in the tank and prevent floating.
- Divert rainwater runoff away from your system.
- Avoid pumping the tank during wet seasons if there is a risk that the tank could float.
Can you pump a plastic septic tank?
When is Pumping a Septic Tank Not Recommended If the septic tank is plastic or fiberglass, and if ground water is still high around the septic tank, the tank may actually float up out of the ground, leading to damaged septic piping and more costly repairs.
Can you have a septic tank without a leach field?
The waste from most septic tanks flows to a soakaway system or a drainage field. If your septic tank doesn’t have a drainage field or soakaway system, the waste water will instead flow through a sealed pipe and empty straight into a ditch or a local water course.
Can a leach field be too deep?
Drain Field Depth The result is a drain field about 3 to 4 feet deep. Sometimes, however, a drain field may need to be a bit shallower and can result in drain pipes as close to the surface as 6 inches. Underground obstacles can cause this situation.
Why the inlet pipe in the septic tank is higher than the outlet pipe?
Level the septic tank: The septic tank inlet tee is designed to be higher than the septic tank outlet tee. This helps assure that incoming sewage clears the baffle and enters the tank correctly, while outgoing effluent does not carry along floating solids, scum, or grease (which would clog the drainfield).
How can buoyancy be prevented?
- Base extension (cast-in-place or precast). Using the additional weight of soil by adding shelves is a common method used to counteract buoyancy.
- Anti-flotation slab.
- Increase member thickness.
- Lower structure elevation and fill with additional concrete.
Why do septic tanks float?
All tanks have the potential of being floated out of the ground due to forces acting on the tank in saturated soil. At the gas station, the tank hole was excavated into relatively solid or dense soil and then backfilled with a less dense material that will allow water to collect in the excavation.
Do septic tanks float?
Any tank or buried structure that weighs less than the water displaced will float when empty.
How do plastic septic tanks work?
Septic tanks work by allowing waste to separate into three layers: solids, effluent and scum (see illustration above). The scum, composed of waste that’s lighter than water, floats on top. The middle layer of effluent exits the tank and travels through underground perforated pipes into the drainage field.
Are plastic septic tanks good?
Plastic septic tanks are watertight and are immune to water-based corrosion. They are also rust-resistant. Plastic tanks are less prone to cracking since plastic is flexible, and thus a plastic septic tank does not crack as much as a cement septic tank. Plastic septic tanks are more hygienic than cement tanks.
7 Steps to a New Plastic Septic System
Plastic septic tanks are only one important component of a home’s wastewater management system. There are several other components as well. When you are preparing for your plastic septic tank installation, it is critical to recognize and remember that there are several critical steps to take when installing a new septic system, and if you do not complete each of them carefully, you may be faced with some very expensive consequences down the road.
Step 1: Design Your System
The first step is to take your time and properly design your complete system. There is some critical information that you will need to investigate and get in order to complete this task. You will require a site survey to assist you in determining the borders of your land so that your septic system can be installed in accordance with local restrictions about how near to your neighbor’s property wastewater may be discharged underground. The following are the most crucial pieces of information to look for during the site survey:
- In addition to the quantity of space available, the land’s topography should be considered as well as the purpose and estimated usage of water based on the size of your home, so you know how much water your septic system will have to treat on a regular basis the position of any wells on your property or on the properties of your neighbors
In addition, you will need to conduct a percolation test on the soils in the region where your plastic septic tank installation will take place. Performing this test is critical because it will determine whether or not the ground is suitable for a plastic septic tank, as well as what type of structural precautions you will need to take to ensure that the plastic septic tank does not fracture or crack under the pressure exerted by the surrounding ground. The following parameters will be measured by the soil test:
- The kind of soil and the composition of the soil (sand, clay, rock, etc.)
- Layering (in which different soil types are found at different depths)
- The capacity of the earth to drain and filter effluent
Once you have completed these tests, you will have the information necessary to build a septic system that is appropriate for your home.
Step 2: Seek Permits
The second stage in the installation process is to submit your plans and applications to your local government in order to obtain the permissions and approvals that are necessary. In order to gain clearance for these designs, you must ensure that they are in compliance with all applicable plumbing and construction requirements. It is possible that you may be punished and compelled to remove your equipment if you do not obtain these critical permissions.
Step 3: Gather Equipment
Bring together all of the items that will be needed for your plastic septic tank installation. The following is a list of the equipment and parts that you will require:
- Backhoe – this is by far the most effective method of digging the holes that will be required to install your septic system in the earth. In order to conduct some more accurate digging in the holes you dig with your backhoe, you’ll need a shovel. In order to assure exact measurements for digging, a laser transit surveying equipment is used. A grade pole is a surveying equipment that is used to accurately measure the depth of a hole while digging. (1) – 4′′ Sch. 40 PVC pipe – this is the input pipe from your house, and it may also require fittings
- And (2) – 4′′ Sch. 40 PVC pipe – this is the output pipe from your home, and it may also require fittings
- (1) – 4′′ perforated pipe in accordance with ASTM D2729 – output pipe for dispersing effluent into draining field
- (1) – 4′′ASTM D3034 pipe with suitable fittings
- (2) – 4′′ASTM D3034 pipe with appropriate fittings
- – 4′′ Sch. 40 vent caps and test caps – to disperse gas buildup resulting from the degradation of waste in the septic tank
- – 4′′ Sch. 40 test caps – to ensure that the tank is functioning properly. To join PVC pipes together, PVC primer and PVC adhesive are used. Cutting PVC pipe to the required length requires the use of a manual hand saw or an electric hand saw. The usage of a hammer drill and bits is required if you need to drill through the wall of your house in order to install the septic system. If you drill a hole through a PVC pipe, you may use hydraulic cement to seal the gap between the pipe and the wall of your home. The stone should be 1 12 inches in thickness and should be put below your septic system to guarantee proper drainage. Small and big tape measures – you will need at least 100 feet of tape, therefore it may be beneficial to have both a small and a large tape measure on hand
- Septic fabric — You will need roughly 3 feet of fabric cut from a roll. Plastic septic tank and risers – check with your local rules to ensure that plastic septic tanks are permitted. Silicone caulk is used to seal the risers of the stairwell. If a septic filter is necessary, it should be installed. Check out the plumbing codes in your area. Distribution box made of plastic – this is utilized when running a system with many laterals to the draining field.
Step 4: Install Intake Pipe
Choose one of the sides of your home or structure from which you want the septic tank to take in waste water for treatment. It is necessary to dig down at least 2 feet and either make a hole in the wall or dig further into the footing of the home or structure at that location. If you have a gravity-fed system, you should design the flow such that it flows downhill, rather than uphill, because gravity-fed systems do not require mechanical techniques to transport waste from a tank to a drain field.
- Install the 4 inch Sch.
- It has to be level at the wall and slope down about 1/8 inch per foot toward the plastic septic tank, according to the manufacturer’s specifications.
- In the event that you swap pipes, make certain that you utilize the proper adaptor while connecting it to the plastic septic tank.
- If you decide to drill a hole in the wall, you must use hydraulic cement to seal the area around the hole, both on the inside of the building and on the outside as well as the inside.
If the pitch is excessively steep, the wastewater will flow too quickly through the system, causing the particles to become caught in the pipe. It is also possible that you will have insufficient space left to adequately drain the effluent into the draining field.
Step 5: Install Plastic Septic Tank
Excavate a huge hole deep enough to accommodate your plastic septic tank below the surface of the ground. Make use of your laser transit to identify the top of the intake pipe and measure the distance between the top of the intake pipe and the bottom of the tank with your tape measure. In order to get the depth you want, double that amount by 1 12 inches and add it to the measurement taken from your laser transit to your grade pole. Continue digging until you reach the desired depth. Afterwards, you must dig out your draining field (also known as a leach field) in accordance with the parameters of your survey results as well as any applicable local restrictions.
Step 6: Install Draining Field
Generally, a 12 inch coating of washed drain rock will be required surrounding the pipe in order to keep it stable while it is transporting stuff. According to your local health criteria, the size of the gravel and the depth of this layer will be determined. If you are placing perforated pipe in a gravity septic system drain field, keep in mind that the pipe has no slope on either end and is capped on both ends.
Step 7: Inspection and Filling In
Following the permission of your local health inspector, it is time to cover everything with dirt and finish the job. To cover your cleaned drain rock before covering it with soil, you will most likely need a specific cloth that functions as a filter, untreated construction paper, or four inches of straw to cover the drainage region.
Bonus for Pump Plastic Septic Tank Installations:
If you have a pumped plastic septic tank installation, there will only be a few variations in the process you will go through. Before you can connect your plastic septic tank to your draining field, you must first construct a pump chamber in your home. The pump chamber is constructed in a manner similar to that of the septic tank, but the electrical aspects of the pump will necessitate the services of a certified electrician to ensure that you are in compliance with state standards. Those who live in areas with a lot of groundwater may find that their pump chamber is mostly empty most of the time, and others may find that they need to add more weight to the floatation mechanism that switches the pump on and off.
Not until you have obtained your permits and asked for assistance from local septic specialists at the first indication of problems, not after you have put everything together, filled it in, and discovered evidence of sewage leakage when you first turn on the water, should you begin digging.
If any part of this instruction seemed unfamiliar to you, there’s no shame in asking for clarification! Early involvement with the specialists will save you a great deal of time, money, and the frustration of having to repair a septic system that was badly constructed.
» Installation Instructions
Underground Plastic Tank Installation|Above Ground Plastic Tank Installation is a type of underground plastic tank installation.
Underground Plastic Tank Installation
- Choose a location with adequate subsoil drainage. Allow enough space around the tank for the backfill to be properly placed and compacted around the lower half of the tank Provision of a well-compacted or undisturbed bedding of sand/gravel combination or clean, granular soil: 6 inches or more in rock terrain, depending on the kind of terrain. Form the bedding to fit the underside of the tank.
SETTING UP THE TANK
- Input and outlet orientations, as well as shipping damage, are all recorded on the Warranty Form.
- To level the inlet and exit, place a pipe level across the access cover. It is critical that the outflow is located below the level of the entrance. CAUTION: Use caution when handling. A heavy hit, particularly in cold weather, might cause the tank to break.
IN ORDER TO AVOID FLOTATION OR DISTORTION
- If poly tanks are pumped out during periods of high water table, they run the danger of floating or distorting at the base. During really rainy weather, keep the tank just partly full. Installation of a vertical length of 4′′ perforated drainage pipe beside the tank with a detachable cover above grade level to monitor the water table level after it has been filled is recommended. Attach the label provided on the standpipe. Avoid pumping the tank out below the water table at all costs. Drainage lines should be run from under the tank out to daylight and downward away from it if the tank is on sloping terrain.
- It is required that the tank be refilled when it is either empty or less than 30 percent full. The backfilling technique does not necessitate the use of water. If the tank has been filled for leak testing, empty it to 30 percent or less before refilling it. Backfill with a maximum of 12′′ layers of granular soil or clean fill and stomp the dirt to ensure uniform distribution. THERE WILL BE NO CLAY BACKFILL. The backfill must be correctly put and compacted around the lower part of the tank, which is very important. Do not place the machine compact near the tank. It is not recommended to dump significant amounts of fill near to the tank. Check the level of the tank on a regular basis. Make certain that the backfill under the inlet and output pipe connectors is compacted. Build up the support beneath the pipelines to prevent probable pipe breakage caused by the settling of backfill over time. If the tank has become heated due to exposure to sunshine, leave it to cool before continuing with the backfilling. If there is no riser, waterproof tape should be used to seal the lids.
CONNECTIONS FOR PIPE:
- Make connections to the tank only when it is improbable that the tank will shift throughout the remainder of the backfilling. Rubber couplings of the type “Fernco” should be used
- All water tanks must be vented through pipe with a minimum diameter of 2 inches
- To allow pipes to deflect with tank expansion (in the case of water tanks), 90-degree elbows should be installed at output bulkhead connections. Make use of at least a 3-foot-long flexible hose from the pumps to allow for movement (if they are installed).
IMPORTANT CONSIDERATIONS FOR INSTALLATION:
- Tanks are used for burying the dead. For above-ground installations, consult the manufacturer. In the absence of special approval, tanks are designed to withstand up to TWO FEET of earth cover at 300 lbs./square foot. A SUPERTANK is capable of withstanding four feet of earth cover and 480 pounds per square foot of floor space
- FLOUT DOSING TANKS are capable of withstanding four feet of earth cover and 480 pounds per square foot of floor space
- A FLOUT DOSING TANK is capable of withstanding four feet of earth cover and four pounds per square foot of floor space
- Do not place yourself in the line of moving cars or heavy equipment. Keep a safe distance from big roots or rocks. Placement of the tank should be avoided in locations with a high water table. Use a reinforced tank in areas with a high water table
- Avoid putting the tank in damp clay soils
- And Surface runoff should be diverted away from the tank area. Fresh backfill has pores in it. Runoff might clog the area around the tank.
Download the Underground Tank Installation PDF Note: Installation instructions may differ depending on the jurisdiction in where the tank is installed. If you live outside of British Columbia, check with the factory. NOTE: If the manufacturer’s instructions are not followed exactly, the warranty will be voided.
Above Ground Plastic Tank Installation
WHAT KIND OF FOUNDATION IS REQUIRED?
- It is necessary to have a sturdy, flat base that is continuous under the whole tank
- Sand, fine gravel, clean soil, cement, or boards that are adequately supported and precisely spaced can be used as a base. Remove any pebbles that are bigger than half an inch in diameter. After filling the tank, check to see that it has not sunk and is still upright.
IS IT POSSIBLE TO USE A PLATFORM? Although it is possible, the tank bottom must be continually maintained, for example, with two layers of 3-4 inch plywood nailed together and to a sufficient support framework. In the sake of safety, it is recommended that an engineer be consulted. It is important to remember that the weight of water is 8.33 pounds per US gallon and 10 pounds per Canadian gallon. WHAT IS THE WEIGHT OF THE TANKS?
- The weight of above-ground tanks may be approximated by dividing the gallon capacity by five, which yields the following result: For example, a 1000-gallon tank will weigh around 200 pounds. For subterranean tanks, multiply the gallon capacity by three to get the volume.
DO THEY APPEAR TO BE EASY TO MANAGE?
- Almost all of the tanks may be transported using a pickup truck or a trailer. Considering that polyethylene is a fairly robust substance, it is doubtful that any damage would occur during cautious handling and transit. Extreme cold weather necessitates extra caution due to the fact that the tank will become harder and more fragile.
Is it possible to put pressure in the tank? NO! At all times, polyethylene tanks must be exposed to the outside environment or vented. Because they are mounted at a greater height, they can be utilized to supply a head of water, but they are not capable of being exposed to any external pressure sources. If required, install a float valve on the intake line. WHAT ABOUT THE PRODUCTION OF ALGAE? The entry of light into the tank encourages the growth of algae. Keeping the tank away from direct sunlight and using a darker tank color, as well as sanitation, can help to keep algae development under control.
- Tanks are designed expressly for usage above or below ground, depending on their intended function. Above-ground tanks feature smooth sides and are exclusively intended for installation on the ground. The tanks may, however, be lowered into the ground to a depth equal to 20 percent of the tank’s height in order to lower the tank’s above-ground profile
WHAT ACCESSORIES ARE INCLUDED WITH THE TANK?
- The bottom of the majority of above-ground water tanks is equipped with a 1 inch or 2 inch female threaded pipe connection, while the top is equipped with a 16 inch access cap. Breather valves are included into the access caps, allowing air to enter and exit when the water level changes. Making the necessary connections can be accomplished with the assistance of a local plumber or plumbing supply company. Check to verify that the bulkhead drain/outlet fittings are securely fastened to the tank. As a result, while tightening external connections, the lock nut on the fittings features a reverse thread to prevent it from coming free. Hand tighten threads several rounds to ensure that the threads are aligned and that the possibility of stripping is minimized. When the tank is completely full, check for leaks and tighten only enough to prevent any leaks. Excessive tightening may result in the threads of the pipe being stripped or the bulkhead fittings being cracked, requiring replacement. Additional connections for intake pipes are provided on an as-needed basis in response to client requests. Pipe Sizing Chart may be used to determine approximate pipe sizes.
DOES SUNLIGHT HAVE ANY IMPACT ON THE TANKS?
- Over time, exposure to sunshine causes the plastic to harden, making it more prone to shattering if the tank is subjected to a significant amount of force. Almost all of Premier Plastics’ tanks are treated with a UV inhibitor, which helps to reduce the hardening process. Tanks that are darker in color or black will likely survive longer.
WHAT DO YOU THINK ABOUT COLLECTING RAINWATER?
- Rainwater collection is a good technique to bridge periods of limited water supply. The usage of a filter basket is recommended to screen out leaves, twigs, and other material that may enter the gutter system from the eaves troughs. Boiling or disinfection of water is required for all uses including drinking, cooking, and dishwashing. It is possible to use clean rainwater for large-volume applications such as toilet flushing and laundry, showering, cleaning automobiles, and watering the yard. A ‘Pneumatic Dipstick’ level gauge from Premier Plastics may be used to monitor the water level in a container.
WHAT IS THE DURATION OF THE WARRANTY?
- However, you can expect many more years of service from your above-ground tanks, which are covered by an eight-year warranty. All underground water tanks and septic tanks are covered by a ten-year manufacturer’s guarantee. Polyethylene will persist practically indefinitely in the subsurface environment. Fill out the warranty form and send it back to Premier Plastics Inc.
ARE THE TANKS SAFE FOR USING AS DRINKING WATER STORAGE?
- No. Our food-grade polyethylene tanks are built in accordance with FDA rules 21 CFR 177.1520(c)3.1, NSF Standard 61, and Canadian Standards Association (CSA) 6861-05
- And, yes, they are recyclable. It is, of course, your job to ensure that the water in the tank is of high quality. Water quality information may be received from a variety of sources, including water delivery corporations, well drillers, and public health authorities. A new tank’s bottom may include small particles of polyethylene that have been cleaned but not disinfected. Factory tanks are clean but not disinfected. These are created while cutting holes for fittings and will float to the surface when filled or can be cleaned out
- They are created when cutting holes for fittings.
WILL I BE ABLE TO TELL THE DIFFERENCE IN TASTE?
- Ideally, your pipework should be linked in such a manner that incoming water is constantly flushing through the tank
- Water that has been sitting in any form of vented container for an extended amount of time will develop a “flat” flavor. This is due to the fact that the water has lost its ability to hold air. This may be partially remedied by half-filling a closed jar with water and rapidly shaking it to introduce air back into it
HOW CAN A STORAGE TANK ASSIST A SLOW PRODUCING BUSINESS SUCCESS?
- Numerous customers are reporting a decrease in the flow rate from their water wells. Well pumps are often designed to generate water “on demand,” which means that if your bathtub fills at a rate of 5 gallons per minute, the well must supply water at a rate of 5 gallons per minute for the whole time the bath is running. Using a storage tank, short times of high demand may be met by drawing from the tank rather than straight from the well. If a storage tank is employed, a household consuming 400 gallons per day would require their well to generate no more than 400 gallons over the course of 24 hours. On average, a well only has to produce half a gallon per minute for 24 hours to fulfill a family’s water demands. A popular technique is to throw a truckload of water down a sluggish producing well. There would be no loss of water due to seepage if all water deliveries were stored into a storage tank, resulting in cost savings. Your local well driller can provide you with system sizing and layout information.
HOW DOES IT EXPERIENCE IF MY TANK FREEZES?
- It is improbable that a tank that is just partly filled will rupture. The ice will cause the walls to bulge as a result of the pressure. Only over prolonged periods of cold weather can a tank become prone to freezing. Piping should be shielded or drained during freezing weather since the lesser volume of water in the piping will freeze more quickly and may cause the pipe to split. Consult with a contractor who is knowledgeable with the conditions
- The tank can be insulated with a waterproof insulation or housed in an insulated shed if the risk of freezing is high. An underground tank provides the best protection against freezing conditions. It will also help to keep the water cold throughout the hot months.
How to Install a Plastic Septic Tank
Home-Diy Septic tanks constructed of lightweight plastic are convenient for transporting and moving, but they can bend when put in unstable soils and float when installed in saturated soils without sufficient ballast, making them less effective. Flotation is particularly problematic in plastic pump chambers that are low on liquid while operating on wet soils. if (sources.length) then this.parentNode.removeChild(sources); then this.onerror = null; this.src = fallback; )(, arguments.target.currentSrc.replace; )(, arguments.target.currentSrc.replace; )(, arguments.target.currentSrc.replace; (//$/, “), ‘/public/images/logo-fallback.png’)” loading=”lazy”> (//$/, “), ‘/public/images/logo-fallback.png’)” loading=”lazy”> (//$/, “), ‘/public/images/logo-fallback.png’)” loading=”lazy”> (/public/images/log Plastic septic tanks are a cost-effective and lightweight alternative to concrete septic tanks.
Plastic tanks are a helpful solution when places are not approachable byconcrete septic tanktrucks or the environment is sensitive to heavy equipment.
Professionals that are aware with the long-term concerns that homeowners who use plastic septic tanks encounter can provide guidance on how to avoid additional problems in the future.
- Make the necessary excavations where the new plastic tank will be installed per the specifications provided by the tank’s manufacturer with the help of an excavator. Make use of a laser level to check elevations
- Attach a chain to the excavator’s bucket by threading it through the lifting eyes that have been formed into the tank. Lifting the tank with the excavator and lowering it into the pit is a common practice. Remove the tank from the excavator with a hammer. Moving any type of stuff or equipment off the ground is a potentially hazardous endeavor. Maintain a safe gap between you and the rest of the work group. A chain should be threaded through the lifting eyes on the concrete weights and then attached to the excavator. Lift and position the concrete weights on either side of the tank. Drape the cable over the top of the plastic tank and thread the cable through the lifting eyes on the other concrete weight
- Thread the cable through the lifting eyes on the other concrete weight
- Thread the cable through the cable clamps and tighten the bolts with a socket wrench to ensure that the clamp is securely attached to the cable. Fill the tank with water using a garden hose that has been inserted into the tank. Using the excavator, backfill the hole with earth at the same time as you are digging. Vibratory compactors should be used to compact the soil in 6- to 8-inch intervals.
The Drip Cap
- Despite the fact that septic tanks constructed of lightweight plastic are simple to carry and move, they can bend when put in unstable soils and float when planted in saturated soils without adequate ballast. Lifting any cargo or piece of equipment off the ground is extremely risky
- Nonetheless, A chain should be threaded through the lifting eyes on the concrete weights and then attached to the excavator.
How to Connect Pipes to a Septic Tank
Septic tanks are connected to dwellings by four-inch pipes. Image courtesy of dit26978/iStock/Getty Images. Most contemporary septic tanks, whether constructed of concrete or plastic, are divided into two compartments by an internal baffle and equipped with an intake and output port. In most cases, when you first install the tank, each port has a preinstalled 4-inch sanitary tee fitting. You connect the waste line from the building to the inlet fitting and the drain line to the outlet fitting either by gluing it or by using a mechanical flexible coupling to connect the two lines (often referred to as aFernco coupling).
- Septic tanks used to have only one chamber in the olden days.
- The scum layer contains greases, oils, and other lighter-than-water contaminants that could clog the soil.
- Whatever your feelings about the necessity of the tees, they serve as an insurance policy against the failure of the septic tank baffles, and it is smart to have them installed.
- In order to keep debris out of the pipes, some plumbers put grates on the top portions of tees.
How to Install Septic Tees
The installation of the tees on the septic tank must be done from the inside of the tank if the tees do not come with the tank. A 4-inch tee is normally firmly secured by predrilled or, in the case of concrete tanks, preformed holes in the tank’s inlet and outflow holes. A bead of butyl or silicone caulk around the perimeter of the tee on both sides of the tank will enough in most cases, but it’s not a terrible idea to apply some in case you do need glue. The top of the tee should have a short piece of tubing attached to it to allow the aperture to extend over the scum layer in the tank, while the bottom of the tee must extend below the scum layer, or around 2 feet below the tee, to allow for proper drainage.
Connecting Inlet and Outlet Pipes
The waste and drain pumps are located in trenches that slope toward and away from the tank, respectively, with a slope ranging between 2 and 10 percent. For a modest slope, it’s fine to glue the pipes straight to the tee; but, if the slope is steep, you need glue a 22 1/2-degree bend onto the tee to make the glue connection completely waterproof. If necessary, the bend can be configured such that it faces upward on the input side and downward on the outflow side. Despite the fact that the pipes fit firmly in the fittings, it is necessary to glue them together.
If you don’t, the tee might get disconnected and fall into the tank, and it’s a problem that requires expert assistance. A septic tank may be deadly, and falling into one or even peering into one too closely can be fatal. Never attempt to do this repair yourself.
Septic Tank Installation and Pricing
To process and dispose of waste, a septic system has an underground septic tank constructed of plastic, concrete, fiberglass, or other material that is located beneath the earth. Designed to provide a customized wastewater treatment solution for business and residential locations, this system may be installed anywhere. Although it is possible to construct a septic tank on your own, we recommend that you hire a professional to do it owing to the amount of skill and specific equipment required.
Who Needs a Septic Tank?
For the most part, in densely populated areas of the nation, a home’s plumbing system is directly connected to the municipal sewer system. Because municipal sewer lines are not readily available in more rural regions, sewage must be treated in a septic tank. If you’re moving into a newly constructed house or onto land that doesn’t already have a septic tank, you’ll be responsible for putting in a septic system on your own.
How to Prepare for Your Septic Tank Installation
Here are a few pointers to keep in mind to make sure your septic tank installation goes as smoothly as possible.
Receive Multiple Estimates
Receiving quotations from licensed septic tank installers and reading reviews about each firm using trustworthy, third-party customer evaluations should be done before any excavation or signing of any paperwork is done. Examine your options for a contractor and make sure they have the appropriate insurance and license, as well as the ability to include critical preparations such as excavation and drain field testing in their quotation.
Test the Soil and Obtain a Permit
For septic systems to function properly, permeable soil surrounding the tank must absorb and naturally handle liquid waste, ensuring that it does not pollute runoff water or seep into the groundwater. The drain or leach field is the name given to this region. Before establishing a septic tank, you are required by law to do a percolation test, sometimes known as a “perc” test. This test indicates that the soil fits the specifications established by the city and the local health agency. In most cases, suitable levels of permeable materials, such as sand or gravel, are necessary in a soil’s composition.
Note: If you wish to install a septic tank on your property, you must first ensure that the ground passes the percolation test.
Plan for Excavation
Heavy machinery is needed to excavate the enormous quantity of land necessary for a septic tank. If you are presently residing on the property, be careful to account for landscaping fees to repair any damage that may have occurred during the excavation process. Plan the excavation for your new home at a period when it will have the least influence on the construction process if you are constructing a new home.
Typically, this occurs before to the paving of roads and walkways, but after the basic structure of the home has been constructed and erected. Adobe Licensed (Adobe Licensed)
The Cost of Installing a Septic Tank
There are a few installation charges and additional expenditures connected with constructing a new septic system, ranging from a percolation test to emptying the septic tank and everything in between.
A percolation test can range in price from $250 to $1,000, depending on the area of the property and the soil characteristics that are being tested. Ordinarily, specialists will only excavate a small number of holes in the intended leach field region; however, if a land study is required to identify where to excavate, the cost of your test may rise.
Building Permit Application
A permit will be required if you want to install a septic tank on your property. State-by-state variations in permit prices exist, however they are normally priced around $200 and must be renewed every few years on average.
Excavation and Installation
When you have passed a percolation test and obtained a building permit, your septic tank is ready to be professionally placed. The cost of a new septic system is determined by the size of your home, the kind of system you choose, and the material used in your septic tank. The following is a list of the many treatment methods and storage tanks that are now available, as well as the normal pricing associated with each.
Types of Septic Tank Systems
Septic system that is used in the traditional sense Traditionally, a septic system relies on gravity to transport waste from the home into the septic tank. Solid trash settles at the bottom of the sewage treatment plant, while liquid sewage rises to the top. Whenever the amount of liquid sewage increases over the outflow pipe, the liquid waste is discharged into the drain field, where it continues to disintegrate. This type of traditional septic system is generally the most economical, with an average cost of roughly $3,000 on the market today.
Drain fields for alternative systems require less land than conventional systems and discharge cleaner effluent.
Septic system that has been engineered A poorly developed soil or a property placed on an uphill slope need the installation of an engineered septic system, which is the most difficult to install.
It is necessary to pump the liquid waste onto a leach field, rather than depending on gravity to drain it, in order to ensure that it is equally dispersed across the land.
Types of Septic Tanks
- Concrete septic tanks are long-lasting and rust-proof, but they are difficult to repair if they are damaged. It is possible that concrete tanks will cost up to $2,000 depending on their size. Plastic —While plastic tanks are cost-effective, they are also susceptible to damage. They are around $1,200 in price. Fiberglass —While fiberglass septic tanks are more durable than their plastic counterparts, they are susceptible to shifting or displacement if the water table rises to an excessive level. Depending on the model, these tanks may cost up to $2,000
More information may be found at: Septic Warranty Coverage and Costs.
Using Your Septic Tank
It is important to maintain the area around your new septic tank’s drain field and to frequently check your tank using the lids included with it. Never use a trash disposal in conjunction with your septic tank since it might cause the system to clog. Additionally, avoid driving over the land where your septic tank is located or putting heavy gear on top of your septic tank or drain field to prevent damage. Most of the time, after five years of septic system use, you’ll need to arrange a cleaning and pumping of the system.
Consequently, there will be no accumulation of solid waste that will leach into the surrounding soil or groundwater. Send an email to our Reviews Team [email protected] if you have any comments or questions regarding this post.
Plastic Vs. Concrete Septic Tank
Plastic and concrete septic tank alternatives are available whether you’re installing a new septic tank or replacing an existing one, and you’ve probably seen them before. For the most part, homeowners are not overjoyed at the notion of shelling out a significant sum of money for something that essentially does nothing but handle wastewater. Although this is a significant commitment, it is not one that should be taken carelessly. They both have advantages and disadvantages, and we hope that this list will assist you in making a more informed selection.
Plastic Septic Tanks
Increasingly popular as an alternative to concrete septic tanks are plastic septic tanks. Typically, they are pre-fabricated and have an oblong oval form with ridges running around the exterior walls. They are readily available at most home improvement stores and are ready to be installed as soon as they are delivered to your residence.
They are rather light in weight due to the fact that they are composed of plastic. They typically weigh a couple hundred pounds and can be handled with relative ease by a standard pickup truck. This means that not only is installation simpler, but it also means that all of the expenditures involved with it are reduced. Simply digging a hole, positioning the tank, and connecting the tank to the rest of your system is all that is necessary. Plastic septic tanks are a more affordable option to concrete septic tanks due to the fact that they are lighter and easier to install.
Compared to concrete septic tanks, plastic septic tanks are significantly weaker. In other words, driving anything over the tank may cause it to be crushed or otherwise damaged. Plastic septic tanks are also more susceptible to environmental variables such as soil vibrations and root penetration, which can cause cracking or warping of the tank’s outside. It is possible to fix some of the damage, but depending on how severe it is, the tank may need to be replaced entirely. In order to function correctly, septic tanks must have an adequate balance of sludge (solids), effluent (water), and scum (lightweight solids) in their contents.
If too much waste accumulates inside the tank, it can cause your system to overflow and the tank to “float” to the surface of the earth, causing damage to the plumbing lines in the surrounding area.
You will need to get them cleaned on a more frequent basis in order to prevent accumulation in the system.
Concrete Septic Tanks
Septic tanks made of concrete are a more conventional alternative. You have the option of either having a pre-cast concrete septic tank supplied to your home or having a tank put in place on your property.
As soon as the prepared option is delivered, it is ready to be implemented immediately. In order to use the poured in place method, you must first dig the hole and then create a mold to shape your tank.
Concrete sewage tanks, in contrast to plastic septic tanks, are extremely long-lasting. Typically, they may be driven over without causing any damage. However, this is not true for your plumbing lines that run to or from the tank, therefore you must use caution when driving in this area of the city. Because concrete septic tanks are massive, they are capable of handling large volumes of sewage without experiencing any issues. This implies that they require less care and cleaning than plastic and can last longer between cleanings.
One of the most significant disadvantages of a concrete septic tank is the weight of the tank. They can weigh many tons, depending on the size of the house you need to build. With this amount of weight, it is evident that large machinery is required for transportation and installation, increasing the entire cost. Environmental variables such as soil vibrations and root penetration are less likely to cause damage to concrete septic tanks than are other types of septic tanks. They are, on the other hand, more difficult to repair than plastic tanks if they are damaged or broken.
There are a variety of criteria that go into selecting which system is the greatest fit for you.
Posts from the recent past
Concrete vs Plastic Septic Tanks: Which is Better?
The septic tank on your property is one of the most important components of the whole plumbing system on your property. Septic tanks are designed to safely handle and manage all of the wastewater generated by your property. If your septic tank is not operating properly, you should replace or repair it as soon as possible. It is possible that your septic tank is not operating properly, causing your entire plumbing system to be interrupted. This might result in you placing yourself and your family in risk, as well as causing damage to your home or garden.
- There is a good probability that you will be replacing your present septic system with a new one within a few years.
- This is because the septic tank you purchase will service your plumbing system in the future years.
- Septic tanks made of sorplastic.
- Knowing their advantages and disadvantages will assist you in selecting the one that best matches your needs and fits inside your budget.
Plastic Septic Tanks
- The purchasing price of plastic septic tanks is less expensive than that of concrete septic tanks
- Thus, they are more cheap. Plastic septic tanks are simple to install since they are lightweight
- They take just a small number of people to complete the job and require little time and equipment. As a result, installation costs are reduced. Poly septic tanks are lightweight and versatile, making them ideal for travel. This implies that they may be placed in a variety of locations. Plastic septic tanks are waterproof and impervious to corrosion caused by water-based substances. Additionally, they are rust-resistant. Plastic tanks are less prone to cracking than cement tanks because plastic is more flexible than cement
- As a result, a plastic septic tank does not break as often as a cement septic tank It is more sanitary to use polyethylene septic tanks than than cement tanks
- Plastic tanks are delivered fully assembled and ready to be fitted.
- Plastic tanks are not as durable as concrete and are quickly crushed by the weight of the container. Alternatively, they might be crushed by the weight of thick dirt or by vehicles passing over the areas where they are buried. Plastic tanks are also susceptible to the environment, which means that they might burst or crack as a result of changes in soil vibrations and environmental conditions, among other things. Solid-waste disposal systems made of cement, on the other hand, are significantly less responsive to environmental changes. Plastic septic tanks are more susceptible to deterioration than cement septic tanks because they break or wrap more frequently. In comparison to cement septic tanks, plastic tanks require more care to keep them operating properly. Concrete tanks have a longer lifespan than poly septic tanks
- Nevertheless, they are less durable. In most cases, plastic tanks have low effluent levels and will “float” if the water level in the tank is greater than typical. This “floating” can cause extensive damage to your plumbing system as well as the septic tank itself. Plastic septic tanks are not authorized for use in all states
- However, in certain areas they are.
Possibly of interest to you is this article: Should you buy a property with a septic system?
Concrete Septic Tanks
- Cement septic tanks outlast plastic tanks in terms of durability and, if maintained properly, may survive for a lengthy period of time. In the right circumstances, with regular draining and good maintenance, a cement septic tank can endure up to 40 years or more. Cement septic tanks are resistant to environmental changes such astree rootsor changing soil conditions
- Concrete tanks are not adversely affected by the weight that is placed on top of them. Comparing cement septic tanks to plastic septic tanks, cement tanks are far more durable and require little maintenance. The fact that concrete tanks are highly hefty and contain large effluent levels means that they are impervious to “floating.” There are no restrictions on using cement tanks in the United States
- They are permitted in every state.
- Concrete septic tanks are more expensive to purchase and install than plastic septic tanks, mostly due to the weight of the concrete tanks. Concrete tanks are more difficult to carry and install than plastic tanks due to the fact that they are awkward and more big in comparison. Therefore, the cementseptic tank installation necessitates the use of heavy equipment and requires a significant amount of time. Cement tanks are also more difficult to repair and install than other types of tanks. As your cement tank is broken, it is more difficult to repair it efficiently when compared to plastic tanks. Compared to plastic tanks, cement septic tanks are more prone to corrosion due to the fact that they fracture or corrode as the tanks age, particularly if they are not properly maintained.
Selecting a Septic Tank
For many homeowners in Atlanta, GA, cement is the go-to material since it is permitted in all 50 states in the United States, including Georgia. It has been a long time since cement has been the preferred building material due of its resistance to damage caused by shifting or heaviness. Plastic septic tanks, on the other hand, are less expensive than concrete septic tanks when it comes to cost comparison. It is recommended that you use a plastic tank when you live in a distant place since cement tanks cannot compete with the simplicity with which it can be installed and transported.
Septic tanks made of cement are not recommended for use in areas with significant acidity in the soil.
Despite the fact that there are several aspects to consider when deciding between a plastic and a cement septic tank, examine your location and scenario and choose the choice that feels best for your property.
We are experts in both concrete and plastic septic tanks, and we will guide you through the process of selecting the best solution for your house. For all of your septic tank system requirements, contact The Original Plumber.
How Does a Septic Tank Work?
Mr. Fix-It-Up-For-The-Family You may save a lot of money if you understand how a sewage treatment system works—and what can go wrong—so that you can handle your own septic system maintenance.
How does a septic tank work?
Pumping the tank on a regular basis eliminates sludge and scum, which helps to keep a septic system in good working order. It is possible for a well-designed and well built septic system to last for decades, or it might collapse in a matter of years. It is entirely up to you as long as you can answer the question of how do septic tanks function. Healthy septic systems are very inexpensive to maintain, but digging up and replacing a septic system that has completely collapsed may easily cost tens of thousands in labor and material costs.
It’s critical to understand how a septic tank works in order to maintain one.
Let’s take a look below ground and observe what happens in a properly operating septic system, shall we?
Understand that a septic system is a cafeteria for bacteria
Bacteria are responsible for the proper operation of a septic system. They decompose garbage, resulting in water that is clean enough to safely trickle down into the earth’s surface. The entire system is set up to keep bacteria healthy and busy at all times. Some of them reside in the tank, but the majority of them are found in the drain field. 1. The septic tank is the final destination for all waste. 2. The majority of the tank is filled with watery waste, referred to as “effluent.” Anaerobic bacteria begin to break down the organic matter in the effluent as soon as it enters the system.
- A layer of sludge settles to the bottom of the container.
- Scum is mostly constituted of fats, greases, and oils, among other substances.
- Grease and oils float to the surface of the water.
- (5) A filter stops the majority of particles from reaching the exit pipe.
- The effluent is discharged into the drain field.
- Effluent is allowed to leak into the surrounding gravel because of holes in the drain septic field pipe.
- The garbage is completely decomposed by aerobic bacteria found in gravel and dirt.
- Potable water seeps into the groundwater and aquifer system from the surface.
Septic Tank Clean Out: Don’t abuse the system
Septic systems that have been correctly planned and constructed require just occasional ‘pumping’ to remove the sludge and scum that has built up inside the tank.
However, if you don’t understand how a septic tank works, you may unintentionally hurt or even destroy the system.
- Drains are used to dispose of waste that decomposes slowly (or not at all). Cigarette butts, diapers, and coffee grounds are all known to cause issues. Garbage disposers, if utilized excessively, can introduce an excessive amount of solid waste into the system. Lint from synthetic fibers is emitted from washing machine lint traps. This substance is not degraded by bacteria in the tank and drain septic field. Bacteria are killed by chemicals found in the home, such as disinfecting cleansers and antibacterial soaps. The majority of systems are capable of withstanding limited usage of these goods, but the less you use them, the better. When a large amount of wastewater is produced in a short period of time, the tank is flushed away too quickly. When there is too much sludge, bacteria’s capacity to break down waste is reduced. Sludge can also overflow into the drain field if there is too much of it. Sludge or scum obstructs the flow of water via a pipe. It is possible for tree and shrub roots to obstruct and cause harm to a drain field. Compacted soil and gravel prevent wastewater from seeping into the ground and deprive germs of oxygen. Most of the time, this is caused by vehicles driving or parking on the drain field.
Get your tank pumped…
Your tank must be emptied on a regular basis by a professional. Pumping eliminates the accumulation of sludge and scum that has accumulated in the tank, which has caused the bacterial action to be slowed. If you have a large tank, it may be necessary to pump it once a year; but, depending on the size of your tank and the quantity of waste you send through the system, you may go two or three years between pumpings. Inquire with your inspector about an approximate guideline for how frequently your tank should be pumped.
…but don’t hire a pumper until you need it
Inspections and pumping should be performed on a regular basis. However, if you’re not afraid of getting your hands dirty, you may verify the sludge level yourself with a gadget known as The Sludge Judge. It ranges in price from $100 to $125 and is commonly accessible on the internet. Once you’ve verified that your tank is one-third full with sludge, you should contact a professional to come out and pump it out completely.
Install an effluent filter in your septic system
Garbage from your home accumulates into three distinct strata. The septic filter is responsible for preventing blockage of the drain field pipes.
Septic tank filter close-up
The septic tank filter is responsible for capturing suspended particles that may otherwise block the drain field pipes. Obtain an effluent filter for your tank from your contractor and place it on the outflow pipe of your tank. (It will most likely cost between $50 and $100, plus labor.) This device, which helps to prevent sediments from entering the drain field, will need to be cleaned out on a regular basis by a contractor to maintain its effectiveness.
Solution for a clogged septic system
If your septic system becomes clogged and you find yourself having to clean the filter on a regular basis, you might be tempted to simply remove the filter altogether. Hold on to it. Solids, wastewater, and scum are separated into three levels in septic tanks, which allows them to function properly (see illustration above). Solids sink to the bottom of the container, where microbes breakdown them. The scum, which is made up of trash that is lighter than water, rises to the surface. In the drainage field, the middle layer of effluent leaves the tank and goes through an underground network of perforated pipes to the drainage field.
- Keep the effluent filter in place since it is required by your state’s health law.
- Waste particles might flow through the filter and clog the perforated pipes if the filter is not used.
- Your filter, on the other hand, should not require cleaning every six months.
- A good chance is high that you’re flushing filter-clogging things down the toilet, such as grease, fat, or food scraps.
- A garbage disposal will not be able to break down food particles sufficiently to allow them to flow through the septic tank filtration system.
- Plastic items, disposable diapers, paper towels, nonbiodegradable goods, and tobacco products will clog the system if they are flushed through it.
For additional information on what should and should not be flushed down the toilet, contact your local health authority. More information on removing lint from your laundry may be found here.
Get an inspection
Following a comprehensive first check performed by an expert, regular inspections will cost less than $100 each inspection for the next year. Your professional will be able to inform you how often you should get your system inspected as well as how a septic tank functions. As straightforward as a septic system appears, determining its overall condition necessitates the services of a professional. There are a plethora of contractors who would gladly pump the sludge out of your tank, but many, in my experience, are unable to explain how a septic system works or how it should be maintained.
A certification scheme for septic contractors has been established in certain states; check with your state’s Secretary of State’s office to see whether yours is one of them.
Also, a qualified inspector will be able to tell you whether or not your tank is large enough to accommodate your household’s needs, as well as the maximum amount of water that can be passed through it in a single day.
As you learn more about how a septic tank works, your professional should be able to tell you whether or not your system will benefit from this treatment.
Alternatives to a new drain field
If an examination or a sewage backup indicate that your drain field is in need of replacement, the only option is to replace it completely. As a result, it’s important to talk with a contractor about other possibilities before proceeding with the project.
- Pipes should be cleaned. A rotating pressure washer, used by a contractor, may be used to clean out the drain septic field pipes. The cost of “jetting” the pipes is generally around $200. Chemicals should be used to clean the system. A commercial solution (not a home-made one) that enhances the quantity of oxygen in the drain field should be discussed with your contractor before installing your new system. Septic-Scrub is a product that I suggest. A normal treatment will cost between $500 and $1,000. Make the soil more pliable. The practice of “terra-lifting,” which involves pumping high-pressure air into several spots surrounding the drain field, is authorized in some regions. Some contractors use it to shatter compacted dirt around the pipes. Depending on the circumstances, this might cost less than $1,000 or as much as $4,000 or more.
Protect your drain septic field from lint
When this device is in place, it inhibits lint from entering the system, especially synthetic fibers that bacteria are unable to digest. One of these filters, which I’ve designed and termed theSeptic Protector, was invented by me. An additional filter is included in the price of around $150 plus delivery. Learn more about how to filter out laundry lint in this article.
Don’t overload the septic system
Reduce the amount of water you use. The volume of water that flows into your tank, particularly over a short period of time, can be reduced to avoid untreated waste from being flushed into your drain field. Replace outdated toilets with low-flow ones, install low-flow showerheads, and, perhaps most importantly, wash laundry throughout the week rather than just on Saturday mornings to save water.
Meet the Expert
Septic systems, according to Jim vonMeier, are the solution to America’s water deficit because they supply cleaned water to depleted aquifers, according to vonMeier. He travels the country lobbying for septic systems, giving lectures, and giving testimony. For septic system inquiries, as well as information on the operation of the septic tank, contact him by email.