How To Open A Castiron Lid On A Septic Tank? (Question)

  • Push the screwdriver into the seam around the lid. When it opens slightly, push the edge of the pry-bar into the seem and pry it upwards. The lid can be quite heavy so have a partner available to help you lift it free of the hole.

How do you open a septic tank lid?

How to Open a Septic Tank Lid

  1. Locate the septic tank. Most codes call for the tank to be a minimum of 10 feet from the house foundation.
  2. Excavate the dirt from the top of the tank.
  3. Push the screwdriver into the seam around the lid.

Do septic tanks have two lids?

Locate The Lid A septic tank installed before 1975 will have a single 24-inch concrete lid in the center of the rectangle. A two-compartment tank installed after 1975 will have two lids of either fiberglass or polyethylene, centered at opposite ends of the rectangle.

How do you remove a stuck lid from a concrete septic tank?

Answers: We usually pry them up and lay them against the dirt on top of the tank (imagine that the lid is on a hinge to the middle part of the top of the tank). Take a long breaker bar (we call them rock bars) and pry up the lid, then use a hook from the other side to pull the lid up and set it basically straight up.

Should a septic tank lid be sealed?

Like wells, septic systems have problems if they are not sealed from outside surface water. Most septic systems rely on buried pipes to get rid of the fluids. The lid covers should fit tightly — if they don’t, a company that specializes in septic repairs should be called to fix them.

How far apart are the lids on a septic tank?

The distance between lids will be different for each sized tank: 1000 gallon tank = 6-6.5 ft.; 1250 gallon = 7-7.5 ft.; 1500 gallon = 8.5-9 ft.. Dig up the outlet chamber access lid. If you are extraordinarily lucky, the as-built drawing is accurate and you have hit the lids spot on.

Will metal detector find septic tank?

If it’s Concrete or Steel, Use a Metal Detector. Based on your conclusions in Step 3, if your septic tank is likely made from concrete or steel, a metal detector can make the task of locating it much easier. But not just any metal detector will do.

Why is my septic tank full again?

There may be several reasons why you have an overfilled septic tank. An overfilled septic tank is often a signal that your drain field is malfunctioning. The water flow backs up when your drain field floods, causing the water level in your septic tank to rise. Other common issues are plumbing and excess water use.

How many loads of laundry a day are safe to do with a septic tank?

Spread Out Laundry Loads These use less water which puts less stress on your septic system. Regardless of the type of appliance you have, you should still spread out your loads. Instead of doing several loads in one day, consider doing 1 load per day or space out 2 loads if you must do more in a single day.

Why does my septic tank have 1 lid?

But seeing one lid on the ground doesn’t necessarily mean that you have one lid – the other might be buried few feet away from the one you saw and so you will have to dig to access it. Most septic tank lids are made of concrete. Fiberglass and polyethylene lids are not very popular because they break easily.

Procedure for Opening Septic Tanks

  • ASK a question or make a comment about how to open a septic tank safely and properly for inspection or cleaning.

InspectAPedia does not allow any form of conflict of interest. The sponsors, goods, and services described on this website are not affiliated with us in any way. Instructions on how to open the septic tank. The location of the septic tank cleanout or cover, as well as the access and opening processes. We discuss some of the things to look for before opening the septic tank, such as subsidence, indications of recent work, and septic tank coverings that are not suitable to use. Then we demonstrate how to remove the septic tank lid or the access port cover from the tank.

For this topic, we also have anARTICLE INDEX available, or you may check the top or bottom of the page.

Procedures for Safe Opening of a Septic Tank, Cesspool, or Drywall for Inspection or Cleaning

Conflicts of interest are not tolerated at InspectAPedia.com. No affiliation exists between us and any sponsors, products, or services mentioned on this website. Instructions on how to access the septic system. Procedures for accessing and opening the septic tank cleanout or lid. We discuss some of the things to look for before opening the septic tank, such as subsidence, indications of recent work, and septic tank covers that are not safe to be opened. Afterwards, we show you how to remove the septic tank lid or access port cover.

There is an article index for this topic available as well, or you can use the page top or bottom navigation options.

  • How to remove the lid from a septic tank
  • When it comes to pumping out the septic tank, which septic tank entrance should be used? Why

In this septic tank pumpout article series, you’ll learn how to locate, open, pump out, clean, and inspect conventional septic tanks, as well as how to locate, open, pump out, clean, and inspect conventional septic tanks using photos. In addition to septic pumping tank truck operators, this guideline is meant to provide basic information to homeowners and septic service providers that are concerned about septic system maintenance.

  • There is a risk of dangerous, perhaps deadly collapse due to subsidence (depressions or low regions in the earth) near the location of the septic tank. Evidence of recent construction activity that may necessitate further investigation in order to determine the status of the septic system
  • Backup or effluent breakout at the surface of the ground in the septic tank region.
  • Here is an example of a septic tank cover that was discovered atop an unstable home-made collection of concrete blocks that had been piled by the owner to serve as an access well to his septic tank. Because the masonry blocks were misaligned and loose, and because the tank aperture into which the cover opened was bigger than the cover, there was a serious collapse risk that may have resulted in a deadly hazard. We covered the area with plywood and roped it off, and we quickly informed the residents and the property owner of the situation, both verbally and in writing

Procedure for Opening the Septic Tank Pumping Access Port

It is necessary to clean the septic tank using a cleanout port, which is normally positioned in the center of the tank. A small access opening, such as one over an intake or outlet baffle, does not provide enough space for adequate sludge removal from the septic tank bottom, and it increases the likelihood of future clogging of the tank’s inlet or outlet due to partially removed floating scum that has not been completely removed from the tank bottom. In this particular scenario, we already had the measurements to the exact placement of the septic tank cleanout cover due to previous work.

A wrecking bar is set to be used to remove the cover from the vehicle. It is important to note that we excavated far enough away from the tank entrance so that when we remove the lid, we will not have a large amount of dirt falling into the septic tank.

Reader CommentsQ A

@Ron, In order for a concrete septic tank lid to be correctly erected, it must feature both access openings and cast in iron loops to which a hoist may be attached. Alternatively, if your septic tank cover does not have those points of purchase for lifting, you will require a flat bar and a larger wrecking bar to pry up the excavated lid from the septic tank sufficiently to allow you to put a chain around the lid, most likely two Chainz, and lift the lid with a hoist and tripod mechanism or you will use an on-site motorized hoist.

  • 1/2 x 27/4 removing the top of a septic tank @Phil, Although what you describe is theoretically doable, it may be less expensive and more rational to do so in a different way.
  • This is due to the fact that just stitching a circular hole does not ensure that I am creating a hole through which the lid will not be dropped.
  • Edge My concrete septic tank, which was constructed when the home was built in 1979 and does not have any manholes or openings for pumping out, is in poor condition.
  • Is it feasible to cut two manholes using a concrete saw that are 20″/24″ in diameter and then build risers and a cover on top of them?
  • Could you please share a picture of the tank top?
  • It is common for the concrete top to be tapered; nevertheless, it may just be trapped by effloresent salts and filth.
  • I have a feeling that simply tugging will not be effective.

This would have stopped leaks but would have made it extremely difficult to open the tank for the next person who needed to open the tank.

Repeat this process many times all around the cover’s perimeter.

For me, this has worked almost every time in the past.

It is recommended that you build a septic tank riser that is sealed to the tank top, as well as a new secure cover on top of the riser if your septic tank lid is not near to the ground level.

Never work on your own.

I’ve erected two wood 4x4s on top of the lifting ring to provide additional support.

All I’ve done three times is shattered those 4x4s.

Do you have any recommendations?

A septic tank pumping provider can remove plastic bags, tiny pebbles, and other debris from your tank, as well as the sediments, scum, and sludge that has accumulated there.

What is the best way to get them out?

When the septic tank is drained out, would it make sense to place a plastic bag over the top hole of the tank to keep the odors contained?

Gerard A plastic bag as a sewer line cap doesn’t seem right to me – it’s not durable, it’s the incorrect material if a cover is required, and if it’s a vent rather than an access pipe, the vent must be open to the atmosphere and protected from animal intrusion.

What is the function of this item?

A typical septic tank is equipped with clean out access covers that are strategically placed.

Maybe something as basic as a flat piece of concrete or stone will be sufficient, or maybe something more complex.

To be quite honest, I would have expected the contractor who dug the hole to be accountable for ensuring that the system was repaired and safe.

What should I do to solve it?

What store would I go to in order to acquire septic tank covers?

A few years ago, I had a beautiful new house built for me.

I have three plastic polylok lids, one of which is above ground and is for the pump.

I’d like to purchase risers so that I may build all three at a depth of around 6 inches below ground level.

What are the advantages and disadvantages.

Do you have any other suggestions?

I apologize for the lengthy post.

Sorry, but “True Bolt” isn’t a phrase I’m familiar with or associate with septic tank lids in any way.

Although this is not always the case, Mary, as the pumper may be able to access the entire tank bottom from a single opening depending on the tank’s size and shape; however, if your pumper is unable to do so from a single opening, you may want both openings opened to inspect the condition of the tank baffles.

There are two holes in my septic tank. Is it necessary to open both doors for a pump out?

Question:cannot find the manhole cover of the septic tank

(8th of August, 2014) “We’ve located the cesspool concrete lid (about 12 foot diameter), but after digging a 2 foot perimeter, we were unable to locate the manhole cover, which was required for an inspection.” vicki levin stated Help? My husband is becoming increasingly upset with the digging!

Reply:

If it’s a cesspool, rather than a septic tank, and it’s spherical, the access lid is normally located in the center of the container.

Question: how do i remove septic tank lid that is stuck

The entrance lid would normally be in the center of the cesspool, if it is in fact a cesspool rather than a septic tank, and it is spherical.

Reply:

Anon:WARNING: If the septic tank cover, lid, or access aperture has partially caved in or sank into the tank, the condition is extremely dangerous – an unsecure cover implies that someone might fall into the tank, which is generally lethal very quickly. Please keep everyone away from the septic tank area until such time as you have had the tank inspected and opened for additional inspection by a professional. Depending on the tank type and condition, lifting the lid may necessitate the use of a pry bar or wrecking bar, as well as a small portable winch (which is unusual).

See also:  Why Is My Septic Tank Backed Up? (Correct answer)

Alternatively, consider the following:

Septic Pumping ProcedurePumper Truck Operation Articles

  • PROCEDURE FOR SEPTIC TANK INSPECTION
  • MISTAKES MADE IN SEPTIC TANK PUMPING
  • PROCEDURE FOR SEPTIC TANK PUMPING
  • HOW TO CLEAN A SEPTIC TANK
  • WHEN TO CLEAN A SEPTIC TANK
  • WHEN NOT TO PUMP A SEPTIC TANK
  • HOW TO FIND A SEPTIC TANK
  • HOW TO OPEN A SEPTIC TANK
  • INSPECT THE SEPTIC TANK BEFORE PUMPING
  • SEPTIC TANK INSPECTION PROCEDURE
  • SEPTIC TANK LEVELS OF SEWAGE
  • PUMPER TRU

Suggested citation for this web page

HOW TO OPEN A SEPTIC TANK at Inspect a Tank An online encyclopedia of building environmental inspection, testing, diagnosis, repair, and issue preventive information is available at Apedia.com. Alternatively, have a look at this.

INDEX to RELATED ARTICLES:ARTICLE INDEX to SEPTIC SYSTEMS

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How to Find the Lid on a Septic System

All septic tanks eventually fill with sediments and must be pumped out on a regular basis in order to remain in excellent functioning order. If the tank’s lid is not on a riser at ground level and you are not the home’s original owner, you may be unable to determine where the lid is located. A typical septic tank is 4 inches to 4 feet underground, with all of its components, including the cover, buried between 4 inches and 4 feet underneath. This is true regardless of whether the septic tank is equipped with special risers that keep the lid flush with the surface of the ground.

Consult A Map

First, choose with the most straightforward choice. The installation of septic tanks at all locations is recorded in most counties’ permission records, which are kept on file for future reference. Typically, this will include a schematic indicating the placement of the tank on the land, as well as certain dimensions that will allow you to measure to the precise site of the tank.

If your tank was placed before your county made it a requirement to record the location of such tanks, you may find yourself with nothing to show for your efforts. When you acquire a house, a schematic of your septic system may also be included as part of the home inspection process.

Search For A Sign

Septic tanks are placed in such a way that they are as unnoticeable as possible on the land. After the grass has grown back after installation and some time has passed, it is possible that just a few visual indications will remain. Pay particular attention to the contours of your yard for any inexplicable high or low points that might suggest the presence of an underground storage tank.

Follow The Pipe

Installation of the septic tank takes place along the sewage line that runs from the house into the front yard. Locate the 4-inch sewage pipe at the point where it exits the home in the basement or crawl space, if it is there. Locate the same spot outside and make a note of it. Insert a thin metal probe into the earth, identify the 4-inch sewage line, and follow it across the yard, probing every 2 feet, until you reach the end of the property. Septic tanks are required to be at least 5 feet apart from the home in all states except Alaska.

Whenever the probe makes contact with flat concrete, fiberglass, or polyethylene it indicates that the tank has been located.

Locate The Lid

The majority of septic tanks are rectangular in shape and measure around 5 feet by 8 feet. Investigate the tank’s circumference to determine its boundaries and outline the rectangle’s boundary using a pencil. A septic tank that was built before 1975 will have a single concrete lid that is 24 inches in diameter in the center of the rectangle. If the tank was built after 1975, it will have two covers made of fiberglass or polyethylene, centered at the ends of the rectangle and centered at the ends of the rectangle.

Call A Professional

Opening a septic tank is a job best left to the pros once the lid has been discovered. Concrete septic tank lids are extremely heavy, and many require the use of lifting tools to remove them completely. An open tank has the potential to release toxic gases. Anyone going around on the property who comes into contact with an exposed septic tank might be in risk. Because of the noxious vapors present in an open tank, falling into one can be lethal.

Mark The Spot

Make a note on the ground near where the tank was pumped by a professional and the lid was buried to serve as a reference in the future. In order to keep track of where you are, you should choose a hefty circular patio tile that is embedded in the ground. Additionally, draw your own map of the area and store it with your other important papers.

Cast Iron Replacement

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Cast Iron Replacement
Author:tmnt25 (FL)I recently had the complete interior plumbing in my 60 year old house replaced all the way out to the clean out valve.What is left of the old stuff is about 3 feet of cast iron pipe that feeds into the septic tank.Since moving in in february, we have had two blockages.I was able to clear them both out using a snake from the clean out towards the septic tank.I had my septic tank emptied, so the problem wasn’t there.i can only guess it’s either the connection that was made between the new pvc and old cast iron, or that the cast iron pipe itself is heavily corroded inside.Given that it’s only 3 feet of pipe, should i go ahead and just have it replaced, rather than go through having to pay for the camera inspection? I’ve dug the pipe up, so its easily accessible.If replacement is the way to go, whats a rough idea of the cost?
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Re: Cast Iron Replacement
Author:North Carolina Plumber (NC)I would just replace the pipe since you already have it dug out. The cost could be less than having it camera’ed.
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Re: Cast Iron Replacement
Author:packy (MA)how far did the snake go in before you hit the stoppage?
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Re: Cast Iron Replacement
Author:tmnt25 (FL)I did not have to go very far, but frankly I didn’t pay attention.First time home owner and first time snake user.
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Re: Cast Iron Replacement
Author:waukeshaplumbing (WI)id replace it.w/o seeing it id guesstimate $500-$1,000 rangei assume its going through the basement wall and into the tank outside3′ seems very close to your house. i though code min was like 10-15′(i dont remember)
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Re: Cast Iron Replacement
Author:tmnt25 (FL)everything from the house up to the clean out (which is outside) is new. From the clean out to the septic tank is old.It might be 10 ft from the exterior wall of the house to the septic, with the cleanout being 7 ft from the house.
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Re: Cast Iron Replacement
Author:hj (AZ)It would have to be a very bad section of pipe for a 3′ piece to cause the trouble. More often it where the pipe enters the tank, or the internal baffle of the tank causing the problem.
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Re: Cast Iron Replacement
Author:packy (MA)that was my thought. you really don’t have trouble with a straight piece of pipe clogging.
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Re: Cast Iron Replacement
Author:tmnt25 (FL)The first baffle is very worn down, but I don’t see how that would cause a clog, I would imagine it would cause issues with the drain field.The septic guys looked and said the outgoing baffle was fine and that the first baffle wasn’t the problem.After researching the word baffle, it seems that a bad one can in fact cause a backup.I guess you can’t assume the septic guys know what they are talking about.?Below is a link to pics of the baffle.Edited 1 times.
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Re: Cast Iron Replacement
Author:zep (OK)If by ‘septic tank guy’, you mean the guy that pumps the tank. then yeah. they often don’t know how to do anything but run the suck truck.Next time it clogs don’t rod it from the clean out.Instead, pull the tank lid on the inlet side and look at the inlet baffle. Is it clogged? Rod it back towards the house from the inlet.In fact, pop the lid now and look at the baffle while it isn’t clogged so you know what it is suppose to look like when it’s working right.
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Re: Cast Iron Replacement
Author:hj (AZ)The baffle can be a problem because if you use a lot of grease it floats on the water inside the baffle and can congeal which would plug the sewer. I have many customers where I installed a riser above that baffle, and periodically, they have to push a stick down it to break up the grease, especially if they have been away for a while.
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Re: Cast Iron Replacement
Author:hj (AZ)Rod it back towards the house from the inlet.Really? I assume you have never done it otherwise you would know how difficult it is to get the snake to turn into the inlet opening, unless the cover is exposed and you are working right through the access port, which is seldom the case. (At least after the first time, unless the plumber likes digging things up and did not install a riser.)
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Re: Cast Iron Replacement
Author:zep (OK)”Really? I assume you have never done it otherwise you would know how difficult it is to get the snake to turn into the inlet opening, unless the cover is exposed and you are working right through the access port, which is seldom the case. (At least after the first time, unless the plumber likes digging things up and did not install a riser.)”- I do it all the time. If the cable doesn’t want to go up the inlet, use your hand to guide the blade into the pipe.I prefer running from the baffle back because if you run clean out to baffle, and the baffle has come off at some point, you can lob the cable in the tank. Also, I like to know if the line is clogged or its a tank side problem before I start.What do you mean by “Unless the cover is exposed.”How would you have access to the inlet baffle if not through the access port?
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Re: Cast Iron Replacement
Author:hj (AZ)Through a 4″ riser pipe, and that is too small and usually too long, to reach down and guide the cutter into the pipe. It can be done using a wire to bend the end, but it still takes time to get everything lined up so it enters the pipe. I dig the tank lid up ONCE, and then install the riser for use the next time.
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Re: Cast Iron Replacement
Author:zep (OK)I install an actual septic tank riser over the access after I dig it up, not a 4″ pipe.That way I have access to the hatches in the future.
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Re: Cast Iron Replacement
Author:redwood (CT)What use is a 4″ riser?I cable from the tank back quite often.Nothing like going to a job at a large home and looking at 100′ of 4″ and another 90′ of 3″ all holding.I’ll dig the tank, cable back to the house and be on my way to the next job before you drained it down to get the cleanout open.- – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – -Since 1995 (3 years before Google started) PlumbingSupply.com has been THE best plumbing supplier on the web. Please visit our sponsor
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Re: Cast Iron Replacement
Author:hj (AZ)Even so, unless it is a very large one, you still cannot reach down into the 6″ square access port to guide the snake into it. At least not without someone to hold onto you so you do not fall into the riser, and can help pull you back out when you are done.
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Re: Cast Iron Replacement
Author:hj (AZ)The 4″ riser has multiple uses.1. It will tell you whether the stoppage is in the line or at the tank.2. If the stoppage is due to material floating on top of the water in the baffle, the riser allows you to break it up and dislodge it without calling a plumer.3. If the stoppage is at the tank and is not material in the riser, you know it is a septic tank or effluent problem so you can call a pumper instead of paying for a plumber to come out and tell you to call one.4. If there is also one at the exit baffle you can tell if the problem is in the tank or the effluent field or cistern.5. If the tank is installed normally, there is no need to snake upstream to the cleanout which should be at the building.
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Re: Cast Iron Replacement
Author:zep (OK)I would go so far as to say that you can’t properly pump the tank if the only thing exposed is two 4″ risers on the inlet and outlet.How do you get the high pressure hose in there to make it spotless?How do you see in there to ensure you got everything?To me, if a house on septic isn’t draining properly, step one is to pop the inlet access and have a look.Otherwise your wasting the customers time and money snaking the line from a clean out, when it may or may not open or stay open.I dunno, I’ve never had a problem with it. I just dig up the inlet access, cable it back up the line. and check the tank while I’m at it.
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Re: Cast Iron Replacement
Author:hj (AZ)Those risers have nothing to do with cleaning the tank, although some pumpers will drop their hoses into them. For cleaning the tank, the risers tell them where to dig to access the large center opening.
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Re: Cast Iron Replacement
Author:zep (OK)”Those risers have nothing to do with cleaning the tank, although some pumpers will drop their hoses into them. For cleaning the tank, the risers tell them where to dig to access the large center opening.”So what are the 4″ risers for?I’m being serious. I’ve never seen them, or installed them. The risers I install are 24″ in diameter and tapcon to the tank at the base.They have a big green lid.
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Re: Cast Iron Replacement
Author:tmnt25 (FL)thanks everyone for the responses! You all seem very knowledgeable. I got an estimate of $200 to replace the cast iron pipe, so I am going to go ahead and get that done. Thereby i’ll have all new piping both inside the house and all the way to the septic.If problems continue, i know it’s absolutely that baffle.
Post Reply
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Installing Access Risers

In order to perform fundamental septic system maintenance, you must first evaluate the condition of your septic tank and pump chamber (if you have one), which can be time-consuming and labor-intensive if you do not have access ports known as risers. Consider the prospect of having to dig through two feet of dirt to check the oil on your vehicle. Installing septic tank risers for an off-site septic system is broken down into four steps, which are outlined below.

Please keep in mind that the currentWashington State Coderequiresrisers for all septic systems, which means you may be forced to install one if you are asking for a construction permit, land division, or any other type of official action in the state.

A few safety tips before you get started:

  • Struck by an underground electrical wire while excavating may be quite dangerous! If you are in any way doubtful about the presence of subterranean lines on your property, you can have them found by contacting 1-800-424-5555 or 811, or by visiting the website
  • Use the buddy system to your advantage! Working with a partner is usually recommended since the fumes connected with open sewage can be dangerous and cause a person to go unconscious. Never leave a septic tank that is open unattended! Once the lids have been removed, exercise caution around the tank and keep dogs and children at a safe distance. Examine the structural integrity of your septic tank! If a septic tank is more than 20 years old, it is recommended that it be pumped to ensure that the tank’s structural integrity and water-tightness are not compromised. Instead of spending money on costly repairs, it is preferable to replace the tank with a contemporary septic tank that includes risers as part of the installation. A permit from your local Environmental Health department is required for the replacement of a septic tank.

Gather all the MaterialsTools You will Need

It should be possible to get most of the components required to construct a septic tank riser at your local plumbing hardware store or on the internet. PVC risers are available in a variety of shapes and sizes. Some of the brand names you might be familiar with include “Tuf-Tite,” “Polylok,” and “Orenco.” Risers are typically 24 inches in diameter and may be readily inserted into the tank hole opening without difficulty. Due to the fact that certain tanks have square openings, it might be difficult to fit a riser around the square entrance.

Some types of risers are made to order based on the height you want, while others are available in increments of 6-12 inches.

Then purchase an Adapter and Risers that are somewhat bigger in diameter than the hole.

See below for Step 4 on attaching risers to the tank entrance.

  1. Tank Adapter Ring (TAR)
  2. Riser Adapter Ring Kit
  3. Butyl Rope
  4. Risers
  5. Domed Lid OR Flat Lid
  6. Stainless Steel Screws

The following materials will be required for digging up your septic tank(s):

  1. As-built condition of the sewage treatment system The following items are required: sketch on paper, measuring tape, shovel, probing instrument, eye protection, and work gloves.

To cut risers to the proper size, the following tools are required:

  1. Circular saws, saber/jig saws, and hand saws
  2. Raspor file
  3. Marking pen
  4. Tape measure
  5. Drill with a 1/4″ bit

Materials required to seal the risers to the tank include:

  1. High-strength concrete patch mix
  2. A small bucket
  3. A mixing stick
  4. And gloves

Follow the four simple procedures shown below to install access risers on your septic components, or download and print a copy of theSeptic Tank Manhole and Access Riser Installationbrochure from Thurston County Environmental Health to get started right now.

Step 1: LocateYour Septic Tank(s)

When looking for your underground septic tank or tanks, it is essential to consult the ‘As-built’ Record Drawing linked with your septic system for assistance. Essentially, this is a plot diagram that shows where your septic system was put on your property, as well as distances between septic components and notable landmarks. The Online Permit System will guide you through the process of locating septic-related documentation if you do not have a “as-built” document. It is possible that you may need to contact Environmental Health to examine the paper records or seek a specialist to find your tank if an as-built is not accessible.

Probing the area around the septic tank with the probing instrument until you contact concrete should be done lightly.

The presence of underground electricity or other utility lines and cables might put your septic tank in danger.

Call 1-800-424-5555 or 811 or go online to make sure that any electrical utilities are found before you begin digging before you begin digging.

Step 2: Uncover Your Septic Tank (s)

Once you’ve discovered your septic tank, you may start digging about. The tank is typically 6 feet wide by 8 feet long, with the width being the largest size. Remove all of the pebbles and debris from around the tank’s lid openings and dig out the whole top of the tank. You will want to clean out any dirt that has accumulated on the surface of your septic tank. This will assist you in ensuring that you generate a high-quality seal. You should have two openings: one over the inlet (which comes from the home) and another over the outlet (which comes from the yard) (into the drainfield or pump chamber).

  • You’ll need a riser for each of the doors you open.
  • Typically, the inlet side is the one that is nearest to the home.
  • When cleaning the tank, it is beneficial to remove the complete top of the tank.
  • Risers must be modified in order to be correctly installed, and all manholes (holes 24 inches or bigger in diameter or square in shape) must also be updated, as well as the tankinlet and outlet baffle covers (if separate from the manholes).
  • If you discover one – and only one – riser already installed, it is most likely for the pump chamber, which only requires a single riser to provide access to the pump to function properly.
  • Remove the concrete lids so that they may be disposed when the project is completed.
  • Consult your’As-built’Recorddrawing to establish whether you have a distribution box (D-box), which you will also need to unearth and place a riser on if you have a typical gravity system.
  • Once the lids have been removed, proceed with caution around the tank.
  • Inform someone of your whereabouts in case you are involved in an accident.

You should be aware that exposure to sewage can result in serious sickness, so make sure you wear gloves and thoroughly wash your hands afterward with soap and water. It is also recommended that you wear eye protection in the event that debris falls into a tank and splashes back at you.

Step 3: Fit Risers to Component Openings

In accordance with the diameter of the septic tank manholes, huge risers will either sit on top of the septic tank or will fit down into the aperture of the tank by 1-3 inches. It’s important to keep this in mind while calculating the height of the riser. The surplus can be easily removed; nevertheless, it is difficult to add a few inches to the length. Take the following measurements of the manhole cover’s diameter:

  • Theriser will fit into the tank hole if the aperture is between 26 and 29 inches in diameter. Measure the distance from the ground to the top of the septic tank and multiply the measurement by three inches. The following is required if the aperture is greater than 29 inches: a 3-foot square fiberglass plate (with a 22-inch hole in the middle) is required. In this case, it lies above the manhole and narrows the aperture, allowing a 24-inch riser to be utilized instead of a more expensive 30-inch riser, saving money.

The distance between the ground and the top of the fiberglass plate should be measured. You may choose to place the risers so that they are level with the surface of the ground, or you may want them to stand out a few inches above the ground (if a riser is above ground make sure you are careful when mowing). Tips: To shorten a big riser with ribs, drill a 1/4-inch hole between the ribs above the cut line and finish the cut by following one of the grooves between the ribs with a saber/jig saw to finish the cut.

By eliminating one of the ribs from the largeriser, it may be made to fit more snugly into a smaller manhole entrance.

Step 4: Attach Risers toSeptic Tank (s)

It is recommended to pump out an old septic tank that is 20 years or older in order to check its structural integrity and water-tightness before using it again. If the tank requires extensive repairs, it is preferable to replace it with a new septic tank that includes risers as part of the installation. A permit from the local health department is required for the replacement of a septic tank. Remove any dirt and debris from the tank’s surface by cleaning it off. Using the butyl rope, construct the components of the risers in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions.

  • Jet-Set, Rapid-Set, Thorough-Set, and Perco-Plug are just a few of the brand names available.
  • NOTE: For optimal results, just a little amount of concrete patch should be mixed at a time.
  • The patch mix should be used to seal the riser to the septic tank.
  • If you want to avoid a safety danger, make sure you properly attach theriser lid using the screws that come with it!
  • Risers for inlet or outlet apertures that are smaller than the openings should have the bottom few inches sanded with rough sandpaper to allow a firmer connection between the two surfaces.
  • A useful source of information on correct installation of risers on septic tanks may be found at your local hardware store where you purchased the risers and covers.

Thurston County Environmental Health is should be commended for providing the foundation for this documentation.

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3 THINGS TO KNOW ABOUT SEPTIC TANK BAFFLES

By Admin on November 12, 2020 Your efforts to live as environmentally conscious as possible, as a responsible homeowner, are likely already underway, with practices such as recycling, composting, and purchasing energy-efficient equipment among your list of accomplishments. As a septic tank owner, you want to be sure that anything you put into your tank and septic field is causing the least amount of ground contamination as is reasonably practicable. Fortunately, there are a number of modest improvements you can do immediately to make your septic system even more ecologically friendly than it already is.

  1. Have your septic tank inspected and pumped on a regular basis.
  2. A bigger septic tank with only a couple of people living in your house, for example, will not require pumping as frequently as a smaller septic tank or as a septic tank that must manage the waste products of multiple family members will require.
  3. When in doubt about how often to pump your septic tank, consult with a professional for advice.
  4. In addition to locating and repairing any damage, a professional can ensure that the septic field is in good working order and that your septic tank is functional, large enough to handle your family’s waste, and not causing any unwanted pollution in nearby ground water.
  5. Avoid flushing non-biodegradable items down the toilet or down the toilet.
  6. Items that are not biodegradable are unable to properly decompose in the septic tank and might cause the system to get clogged.
  7. In addition to causing issues in your house, septic system backups can damage ground water in the area surrounding your septic field.

Towels made of paper Products for feminine hygiene Grease or fats are used in cooking.

grinds from a cup of coffee Even if you have a trash disposal, the food scraps that you flush down the drain and bring into your septic system may cause unanticipated harm to your plumbing system.

Food scraps can enhance the amounts of nitrogen and phosphorus in the wastewater, which can disturb the natural bacterial balance of the septic tank, among other things.

Water conservation should be practiced.

Exceedingly large amounts of water use will interfere with the normal flow of wastewater from your home into your septic tank.

Limiting the amount of time you spend in the shower and turning off the faucet while brushing your teeth, as well as purchasing a smaller dishwasher and washing machine that use less water, are all simple strategies to reduce water use in your home.

The following are some basic steps you can take to make your septic system more ecologically friendly: save water, maintain your septic system and tank, and recycle wastewater. To get answers to any of your septic tank-related issues, get in touch with the experts at Upstate Septic Tank, LLC.

How to Locate Your Sewer Cleanout in Case of Emergency

The drain cleanout is a direct connection to the main sewage line, which can be found either within or outside the property. If the trap is positioned within the house, it is referred to as the main house trap; if it is located outside of the house, it is referred to as the sewer cleanout. However, despite the little shift in terminology, the purpose of this cleanup remains the same: This addition to the home plumbing system is intended to provide plumbing professionals with an easy-to-access point through which they can reach clogs and sewage backup in the main sewage line that extends from the foundation of the home, under the ground, and out to the municipal sewage system, a private septic tank, or the portion of the main house drain piping downstream of the house trap, among other locations.

Only plumbing specialists should utilize the drain cleanout, but being aware of its presence during an emergency clog or backlog may save valuable time and money in the cleaning and restoration process, potentially saving thousands of dollars.

A drain cleanout pipe is commonly three, four, or six inches in diameter and white or black in color, depending on the manufacturer.

Some residences may also have drainage pipes made of brass or copper, though these are far less common.

Before You Begin

Before you begin, it’s crucial to understand that the overall placement of the drain cleanout varies based on the environment of the area where you live.

  • Houses built to a standard in colder areas will often have drain cleanouts installed within the structure. People who live in colder areas and whose homes were constructed on a slab foundation may find an outside drain cleanout, or they may find it in a bathroom, garage, or utility room
  • Therefore, people who live in this sort of property may need to explore both indoors and outdoors. Those in warm regions will often have an external drain cleanout in the yard
  • However, homes in colder climates would not.

Materials

The majority of standard homes in colder areas will have drain cleanouts installed within the home. People who live in colder areas and whose homes were constructed on a slab foundation may find an outside drain cleanout, or they may find it in a bathroom, garage, or utility room; therefore, people who live in this sort of property may need to explore both indoors and outside. Homes in warmer areas will often have an outside drain cleanout in the yard; however, homes in colder climates may not have one.

Look for a T- or Y-Shaped Pipe Fitting With a Cap or Plug

Whereas when a drain cleanout is built within the home, it is usually found on the main sewage line, which is positioned immediately before the main line joins the foundation of the structure. Typically, the drain cleanout will be on a T- or Y-shaped pipe fitting, and it will be equipped with a threaded stopper and a square nut. It is also possible that a plastic cap will be placed over this nut.

The drain cleanout, on the other hand, is not usually put on the main line. If you live in a residence where there are several entry points to the sewage system, you will need to check around for a black or white pipe with a threaded plug and a square nut.

Check Bathrooms, Utility Rooms, and the Garage

If the sewage cleanout is not located on the main sewer line, you will need to look for it in other areas of the house before determining its position. Take a flashlight with you to help you see better in low-light situations. It is common for the drain cleanout to be located near a collection of drainage pipes, such as in a complete bathroom with drains for the sink, toilet, and shower. Make a visual inspection of each bathroom in the house, searching for a capped ABS plastic drain line in black or white.

Occasionally, present or past owners may have made improvements that concealed the location of the main drain cleanout.

Test the Drain Cleanout Plug

After locating the drain cleanout, it’s a good idea to test the plug to make sure it hasn’t been seized as a result of lack of usage. Make use of a pipe wrench or a big set of channel locks to tighten the square nut on the drain cleanout plug while wearing disposable gloves. Begin to crank the nut with the wrench in small increments until it is completely loose. After removing any accumulated filth from the threads, replace the plug with a new one. In certain instances, an expanding plug may be used to cover the cleanout, which may be freed by rotating a screw located in the middle of the plug.

Warning

As soon as you begin to open the plug and notice water or feel pressure beneath the plug, it’s time to contact a professional. This indicates that the clog in the line has caused the pipe leading outside the home to get clogged. Once you’ve pulled the plug, your drainage pit, yard, or house may get clogged with backed-up raw sewage in that specific location of the house.

Locating Outdoor Drain Cleanouts

To locate an outside drain cleanout, you will first need to walk to either the septic tank, if your property is on a septic system, or the municipal sewer line, if your property is not on a septic system. It is possible to identify the sewage line by looking for the nearest manhole or by looking for a curb with a huge S stamped into the concrete.

Estimate the Direction of the Drainage Line

Septic systems will often have the drain cleanout situated near to the residence, in line with the septic tank, in order to save space. Simply go back from the tank and towards the house, keeping an eye out for a plastic pipe protruding from the lawn or garden as you go. Similar to this, the drain cleanout on a municipal wastewater system will normally be located near to the house or other building. This drainage system should be connected to the municipal sewer system; however, because the actual drainage line is not visible, you will need to follow a broad path around the yard in order to locate the drain cleanout pipe.

Although, in some cases, this plug is protected by a plastic cap or a metal lid, this is not always the case. Consider the following: Look for any things that may hide or house a 3-, 4-, or 6-inch pipe in this manner.

Move Lawn Decorations, Foliage, and Other Obstacles

If you are still unable to identify the drain cleanout, it is possible that it has been accidently covered or intentionally hidden from view. The drain cleanout should be located adjacent to the residence in an area along the main sewer or septic line, which may be identified by the presence of drain pipe clusters in full or partially completed bathrooms. Begin by removing any lawn decorations that are blocking the view of the yard outside of the restrooms, gradually increasing the search area.

Overgrown grass may also be an issue, so you may wish to cut the lawn to make the hunt for a lost pet a little bit easier on yourself.

However, even with a highly informed estimate, this procedure is largely trial and error, and you may want to consider hiring a professional to find the drain cleanout.

Mark and Test the Drain Cleanout

After identifying the drain cleanout, mark the site with a metal stake and a brightly colored flag so that you have a fast reference point in the event of an emergency. In addition, the drain cleanout plug should be checked to ensure that it may be removed if necessary. Slowly loosen the nut from the pipe with a pipe wrench or a set of big channel locks to avoid damaging the pipe. In most cases, the nut should be easy to thread out; however, if you notice any water or feel pressure in the line, tighten the nut again and contact a plumber to clear the obstruction in the line.

Warning

The house sewage system can be severely damaged by even the most expert do-it-yourselfers. This can result in sewage backing up into the septic system, onto the yard, or even into the house itself. It is possible to save time and effort while also saving possibly thousands of dollars in clean-up and home restoration costs if you only use qualified professional plumbers to remove blockages and perform repairs to the main drainage line and drain cleanout.

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