How To Instal Risers On A Septic Tank
- Step 1 – Gather The Parts You Need.
- Step 2 – Clean The Top Of Your Septic Tank.
- Step 3 – Apply Butyl Rope To Tank Adapter Ring.
- Step 4 – Put Adapter Ring Around Hole And Screw It Down.
- Step 5 – Add Butyl Rope To The Bottom Of Each Riser.
- Step 6 – Put Risers and Lids On The Adapter Ring.
How do you seal a septic tank riser?
Seal the riser to the septic tank using the patch mix. You may finish sealing by adding Bentonite or casing sealer around the base, filling in gaps as needed. Make sure you then carefully secure the riser lid with the screws provided to avoid a safety hazard! All risers must be completely sealed to the septic tank.
Should I install a riser on my septic tank?
Having a riser in place can also significantly reduce the cost of septic tank maintenance over time through the ease of access and time on the job saved. Plus you will be spared digging up your lawn every time as well.
Should I seal my septic tank lid?
Like wells, septic systems have problems if they are not sealed from outside surface water. Most septic systems rely on buried pipes to get rid of the fluids. The lid covers should fit tightly — if they don’t, a company that specializes in septic repairs should be called to fix them.
Do they make square risers for septic tanks?
The Polylok square riser adapter ring is designed to connect the Polylok septic tank risers or lids to an existing concrete tank with large square or round openings.
Why does my septic tank have 2 lids?
Solid, watertight, buried tank made of concrete, plastic, fiberglass or metal. This tank has a way in (inlet), and a way out (outlet). So, most residential tanks should have (2) lids about 5′ away from each other. A septic tank holds all the liquid waste from your home (toilets, sinks, kitchen, bathtubs, floor drains).
How many septic tank risers do I need?
A single riser is required for accessing the pump chamber for this type of system. If you don’t have two additional risers, you should locate your septic tank and install risers for both the inlet and outlet openings, as described above.
How many lids should a concrete septic tank have?
Two or three lids may be included in your system. The average size of a sewage tank is approximately 5 feet by 8 feet. The lid is buried between 4 inches and 4 feet underground in most cases.
Do septic tanks have concrete lids?
A septic tank installed before 1975 will have a single 24-inch concrete lid in the center of the rectangle. A shallow excavation with a shovel at those locations should reveal the lid or lids, depending on the year of the tank.
Can you patch a concrete septic tank?
To repair large cracks, your septic repair technician will pump out and clean the tank. They will let it thoroughly dry and then apply concrete crack filler to the cracks. Finally, once cured, then the tank can safely be used again.
Where is the lid on a concrete septic tank?
You can locate the lid of your septic tank by poking the ground every few feet with a metal probe. Lids can be buried up to a foot deep on average, so be sure to investigate any bumps that may indicate something is buried underneath.
Installing Access Risers
In order to perform fundamental septic system maintenance, you must first evaluate the condition of your septic tank and pump chamber (if you have one), which can be time-consuming and labor-intensive if you do not have access ports known as risers. Consider the prospect of having to dig through two feet of dirt to check the oil on your vehicle. Installing septic tank risers for an off-site septic system is broken down into four steps, which are outlined below. Please keep in mind that the currentWashington State Coderequiresrisers for all septic systems, which means you may be forced to install one if you are asking for a construction permit, land division, or any other type of official action in the state.
A few safety tips before you get started:
- Struck by an underground electrical wire while excavating may be quite dangerous! If you are in any way doubtful about the presence of subterranean lines on your property, you can have them found by contacting 1-800-424-5555 or 811, or by visiting the website
- Use the buddy system to your advantage! Working with a partner is usually recommended since the fumes connected with open sewage can be dangerous and cause a person to go unconscious. Never leave a septic tank that is open unattended! Once the lids have been removed, exercise caution around the tank and keep dogs and children at a safe distance. Examine the structural integrity of your septic tank! If a septic tank is more than 20 years old, it is recommended that it be pumped to ensure that the tank’s structural integrity and water-tightness are not compromised. Instead of spending money on costly repairs, it is preferable to replace the tank with a contemporary septic tank that includes risers as part of the installation. A permit from your local Environmental Health department is required for the replacement of a septic tank.
Gather all the MaterialsTools You will Need
Hitting an underground electrical line while excavating may be extremely dangerous and even fatal. When in doubt about whether or not you have subterranean lines on your property, contact 1-800-424-5555 or 811, or go online to: Put your friends to work for you! Always work with a partner since the fumes connected with sewage exposure can be dangerous and cause a person to go unconscious. A septic tank that is open should never be left alone. Once the lids have been removed, use caution around the tank and keep dogs and children away from it.
The structural integrity and water-tightness of a septic tank should be checked every 20 years or so if it is more than 20 years old.
A permit from your local Environmental Health department is required before replacing a septic tank.
- Tank Adapter Ring (TAR)
- Riser Adapter Ring Kit
- Butyl Rope
- Risers
- Domed Lid OR Flat Lid
- Stainless Steel Screws
The following materials will be required for digging up your septic tank(s):
- As-built condition of the sewage treatment system The following items are required: sketch on paper, measuring tape, shovel, probing instrument, eye protection, and work gloves.
To cut risers to the proper size, the following tools are required:
- Circular saws, saber/jig saws, and hand saws
- Raspor file
- Marking pen
- Tape measure
- Drill with a 1/4″ bit
Materials required to seal the risers to the tank include:
- High-strength concrete patch mix
- A small bucket
- A mixing stick
- And gloves
Follow the four simple procedures shown below to install access risers on your septic components, or download and print a copy of theSeptic Tank Manhole and Access Riser Installationbrochure from Thurston County Environmental Health to get started right now.
Step 1: LocateYour Septic Tank(s)
When looking for your underground septic tank or tanks, it is essential to consult the ‘As-built’ Record Drawing linked with your septic system for assistance. Essentially, this is a plot diagram that shows where your septic system was put on your property, as well as distances between septic components and notable landmarks. The Online Permit System will guide you through the process of locating septic-related documentation if you do not have a “as-built” document. It is possible that you may need to contact Environmental Health to examine the paper records or seek a specialist to find your tank if an as-built is not accessible.
Probing the area around the septic tank with the probing instrument until you contact concrete should be done lightly.
The presence of underground electricity or other utility lines and cables might put your septic tank in danger.
If you run into a power line, the consequences could be fatal. Call 1-800-424-5555 or 811 or go online to make sure that any electrical utilities are found before you begin digging before you begin digging.
Step 2: Uncover Your Septic Tank (s)
Once you’ve discovered your septic tank, you may start digging about. The tank is typically 6 feet wide by 8 feet long, with the width being the largest size. Remove all of the pebbles and debris from around the tank’s lid openings and dig out the whole top of the tank. You will want to clean out any dirt that has accumulated on the surface of your septic tank. This will assist you in ensuring that you generate a high-quality seal. You should have two openings: one over the inlet (which comes from the home) and another over the outlet (which comes from the yard) (into the drainfield or pump chamber).
- You’ll need a riser for each of the doors you open.
- Typically, the inlet side is the one that is nearest to the home.
- When cleaning the tank, it is beneficial to remove the complete top of the tank.
- Risers must be modified in order to be correctly installed, and all manholes (holes 24 inches or bigger in diameter or square in shape) must also be updated, as well as the tankinlet and outlet baffle covers (if separate from the manholes).
- If you discover one – and only one – riser already installed, it is most likely for the pump chamber, which only requires a single riser to provide access to the pump to function properly.
- Remove the concrete lids so that they may be disposed when the project is completed.
- Consult your’As-built’Recorddrawing to establish whether you have a distribution box (D-box), which you will also need to unearth and place a riser on if you have a typical gravity system.
- Once the lids have been removed, proceed with caution around the tank.
- Inform someone of your whereabouts in case you are involved in an accident.
You should be aware that exposure to sewage can result in serious sickness, so make sure you wear gloves and thoroughly wash your hands afterward with soap and water. It is also recommended that you wear eye protection in the event that debris falls into a tank and splashes back at you.
Step 3: Fit Risers to Component Openings
In accordance with the diameter of the septic tank manholes, huge risers will either sit on top of the septic tank or will fit down into the aperture of the tank by 1-3 inches. It’s important to keep this in mind while calculating the height of the riser. The surplus can be easily removed; nevertheless, it is difficult to add a few inches to the length. Take the following measurements of the manhole cover’s diameter:
- Theriser will fit into the tank hole if the aperture is between 26 and 29 inches in diameter. Measure the distance from the ground to the top of the septic tank and multiply the measurement by three inches. The following is required if the aperture is greater than 29 inches: a 3-foot square fiberglass plate (with a 22-inch hole in the middle) is required. In this case, it lies above the manhole and narrows the aperture, allowing a 24-inch riser to be utilized instead of a more expensive 30-inch riser, saving money.
The distance between the ground and the top of the fiberglass plate should be measured. You may choose to place the risers so that they are level with the surface of the ground, or you may want them to stand out a few inches above the ground (if a riser is above ground make sure you are careful when mowing). Tips: To shorten a big riser with ribs, drill a 1/4-inch hole between the ribs above the cut line and finish the cut by following one of the grooves between the ribs with a saber/jig saw to finish the cut.
By eliminating one of the ribs from the largeriser, it may be made to fit more snugly into a smaller manhole entrance.
Step 4: Attach Risers toSeptic Tank (s)
It is recommended to pump out an old septic tank that is 20 years or older in order to check its structural integrity and water-tightness before using it again. If the tank requires extensive repairs, it is preferable to replace it with a new septic tank that includes risers as part of the installation. A permit from the local health department is required for the replacement of a septic tank. Remove any dirt and debris from the tank’s surface by cleaning it off. Using the butyl rope, construct the components of the risers in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions.
- Jet-Set, Rapid-Set, Thorough-Set, and Perco-Plug are just a few of the brand names available.
- NOTE: For optimal results, just a little amount of concrete patch should be mixed at a time.
- The patch mix should be used to seal the riser to the septic tank.
- If you want to avoid a safety danger, make sure you properly attach theriser lid using the screws that come with it!
- Risers for inlet or outlet apertures that are smaller than the openings should have the bottom few inches sanded with rough sandpaper to allow a firmer connection between the two surfaces.
- A useful source of information on correct installation of risers on septic tanks may be found at your local hardware store where you purchased the risers and covers.
Thurston County Environmental Health is should be commended for providing the foundation for this documentation.
How to Install Risers and Lids on Concrete Septic Tanks w/ Square Hole
Posted on the web by Installing risers and lids will make it much easier to get access to the septic tank for inspection, repairs, and pumping. There is an up-front expense, but that cost can be compensated over time by the cost of locating and digging every time you require access to the tank, which can add up over time. Determine the height of the riser. Tank risers are normally installed around 3 inches above the ground’s surface temperature. Having the lid at ground level will make it simpler to locate; however, some people prefer to have the lid a few of inches below ground level so that it is easier to mow over and less noticeable while in use.
- The height that is chosen is entirely a matter of personal taste.
- Begin by digging all the way down to the tank, cleaning and preparing the area surrounding the existing hole to the best of your ability.
- Attach the tank adapter ring to the tank using stainless steel concrete anchors after applying the butyl sealant tape to the bottom of the ring.
- Install half of the epoxy on the adapter ring and lower the riser so that it rests on top of the epoxy.
- The epoxy and riser are seen in the illustration below.
- Use the provided fasteners to attach the lid, as illustrated below.
What You Should Know About Septic Tank Risers
Septic tank risers are an important part of any septic system, and they should be installed in every property. This article will provide you an overview of septic tank risers and how they may help your septic system. What Is the Function of a Septic Tank Riser? A septic tank riser is a conduit that connects your home’s surface drainage system to your septic tank beneath the ground level. An access port or the pump-out ports on the septic tank are where the riser connects to the tank. Septic tank risers are equipped with lids that can be quickly removed to allow you to check or pump your septic tank without having to dig up your yard.
- These structures are often made of materials that disintegrate slowly over time, such as plastic or concrete.
- What Are the Advantages of Using Risers?
- Normally, this entails digging up your yard before the pump is installed and reburying the tank once it has been installed.
- The use of a septic tank riser can help to minimize the amount of time spent pumping your septic tank.
- The fact that the riser is visible above the surface of your yard makes it an ideal signal for locating your septic tank the first time you need to discover one in your yard.
- For those who want to stay in their house for several years, septic tank risers are not only handy, but they are also cost-effective.
- Concrete risers are more durable, but they are also more expensive, and the price will be determined by the quote you receive from the contractor who will be installing them.
Because labor expenses account for a large amount of the fees that contractors charge for septic system inspection and pumping, installing a riser may possibly reduce the future cost of septic service by as much as 50 percent.
Each and every property can profit from the installation of a septic tank riser, but this does not imply that you should do so immediately.
This allows for the installation of the pump and riser to be completed in a single step.
Because a riser should be considered a long-term investment, you should be certain that your tank is in good functioning shape before installing one.
A septic tank riser is a straightforward concept that may save you a significant amount of money and pain when it comes to septic system maintenance and repair.
We look forward to hearing from you and addressing any concerns you may have concerning your septic system requirements. Contact us now. Please let us know how we may be of assistance to you and your septic system right now!
How do you install a concrete riser on a septic tank?
Installing Risers in a Septic Tank is a simple process.
- Step 1 – Collect the components you’ll need
- Step 2 – Vacuum the top of your septic tank
- And Step 3: Attach the Butyl Rope to the Tank Adapter Ring. 4. Insert the adapter ring around the hole and tighten it down. Then, in Step 6, attach the Risers and Lids to the Adapter Ring with Butyl Rope at the bottom of eachRiser.
It is possible to gain access to your septic tank from the ground level by installing an access shaft that runs from the top of the tank down to the ground level. Ariserwill cost you around $300 to $400 to install, but it will be well worth the investment to provide maintenance crews quick access should it require repairs or maintenance. Also How many risers should a septic tank have, do you know? This is a must-have if you want to get to your septic tank quickly for maintenance. First, I attached a 24 x 12tank riser first, then a second 24 x 6tank riserfor more height, and lastly a 24 inch flat lid.
You’ll never have to dig yourself out of a hole again.
Here are some basic procedures to take to replace the septic tank riser so that you may continue to locate the lid with ease.
- Step 1: Dig out the old Risers
- Step 2: Excavate the area around the Risers
- Step 3: Remove the Riser Lid
- Step 4: Remove the Risers
- Step 5: Remove the Ring if it is damaged
- Step 6: Stack the Risers
- Step 7: Add the Rider Lid
- Step 8: Backfill the soil.
What is a septic system riser and how does it work? The riser of an aseptic tank is a concrete or plastic pipe that extends vertically from the pump-out holes or access ports at the top of the tank to about ground level. Despite being a straightforward and seemingly common sense notion, risers are frequently absent from typical septic tanks, especially older types.
How to Install Septic Tank Risers
A septic-tank riser is a pipe that goes from a septic tank to the surface in order to raise the tank’s lid. Installation of these low-cost devices eliminates the need to dig in order to reach the tank’s lid for inspection or maintenance purposes, saving you time and money. To place risers on your tank without needing to employ a professional, simply follow these instructions.
Step 1 – Choose the Material
The materials used to make risers include concrete, polyvinyl chloride (PVC), and polyethylene. Concrete is the most common material utilized. The pricing, durability, and convenience of installation of these three materials are all different. Even while concrete is the most inexpensive material, it is also the most difficult to install due to its weight. Risers made of polyethylene are lighter and quicker to install, and they are more resistant to soil erosion than steel risers. They are, however, more susceptible to gas and water leaks than other alternatives.
This material is not only simple to install, but it also does not readily leak water or gas when exposed to extreme temperatures.
Step 2 – Decide Where to Install the Risers
Risers are used to replace the cover of the septic tank and to allow access to the tank closer to the ground’s surface. This access can be constructed above ground, where the risers are clearly visible, or it can be installed close below the surface, where the risers are not visible. Typically, above-ground installation is employed in regions that are neither visible nor interfere with grass maintenance procedures. Installing risers above ground also makes it easier to get to the tank when it is needed.
The risers, on the other hand, are hidden beneath the surface of the earth in a below-ground installation. While this approach makes the risers more inconspicuous, you will have to remove the grass that has grown on top of the risers every time you need to get access to the tank in this manner.
Step 3 – Determine the Height
Septic tanks can be buried as far as three feet below the surface of the ground, although the typical depth is 18 inches, according to the EPA. Risers are available in two different heights: 6 inches and 12 inches. They are built on top of one another until they reach the surface or come to a halt just below the surface of the water. Measure the distance between the tank and the location where the new lid will be put in order to calculate the number of risers that will be required.
Step 4 – Gain Access to the Septic-Tank Lid
In order to install risers, you must first dig down to the septic tank’s lid in order to obtain access to the tank. Allow ample space, roughly 2 feet in all directions, for the installer to be able to move around without being obstructed.
Step 5 – Install an Adapter Ring
Remove the current septic tank cover from its position. Make use of an adapter ring to seal up the entry to the septic system. All of the risers will be attached to this ring at the same time. Concrete is used to hold the ring to the tank in place.
Step 6 – Install the Risers
Install as many risers as necessary to attain the requisite height for an above- or below-ground installation, depending on the situation. Screwing the risers together will allow them to be connected to one another. The fact that they are screwed together makes them watertight and airtight. It is simple to repair a septic-tank riser if one is ever damaged or destroyed.
Step 7 – Install a New Lid
Lids are available in a variety of sizes. Select a lid based on the size of the risers that you want to use. Installation Instructions: Place it on top of the final riser and fasten it using the two pins that are included.
Septic Riser & Lid Repair Statesville
Various diameters are available in lids. You should select a lid based on the size of the risers that you want to utilize. Install it on top of the final riser and fix it in place using the two pins that are included with the package.
Do I Need a Septic Tank Riser?
A septic tank riser system is an extremely beneficial addition to your septic system and is highly suggested by experts. This device will make the process of maintaining and monitoring your septic system more easier, more convenient, and less expensive. Septic tank risers that have been authorized by the state of North Carolina must be put on any new or updated septic system in the state. Your septic system is one of the most expensive mechanical elements on your property. It is also one of the most complicated.
If you don’t have septic tank risers, your system will be “out of sight and out of mind” for a long time.
Advantages of Septic Tank Risers
- Rising and covering septic tanks in the modern day are significantly more aesthetically pleasing and mix in with their environment
- The lightweight septic cover makes it simple to get access to the septic tank. The contemporary covers are lightweight, weighing less than 10 pounds, which makes maintaining your tank considerably simpler. The old-fashioned concrete septic tank riser rings are quite heavy, weighing hundreds of pounds. The concrete coverings are similarly heavy, weighing between 60 and 80 pounds. Many individuals are deterred from lifting the cover and doing an inspection because of the weight of the object. Septic tank riser rings made of modern polyethylene are often less than 30 pounds in weight. Septic tank risers also have the advantage of making it considerably easier to prevent surface water from entering the tank. In the olden days, concrete riser rings were not equipped with a gasket. As a result, surface water may readily flow between the connection between the tank and the riser ring, as well as between the lid and the riser ring, when the tank is filled with water. Nowadays, a watertight seal is installed between the septic tank and the base flange of the riser. The riser rings and covers are also equipped with a long-lasting closed-cell foam gasket to keep the junction between them from becoming leaky. To keep little children from curiously messing with the cover and putting themselves in danger of falling into the septic tank, modern riser covers are fastened with threaded screws.
Want to stop digging up your yard every time you need to have your septic system cleaned, repaired, or re-filled with water? Do you despise having to lift and carry incredibly big concrete lids on your shoulders? It appears that you require septic tank risers to raise your access to ground level, as well as a lightweight, easily removable access cover. Our septic tank risers and covers are constructed of high-quality, heavy-duty polyethylene plastic, which allows them to be both extremely robust and durable while still being lightweight and simple to handle and transport.
Polylok and Tuf Tite are two of the most common septic riser manufacturers employed by Lentz Wastewater.
Damaged Septic Tank Cover?
In the event that you drive over your septic tank, which is not suggested at all, the cover or lid may be damaged. Lentz Wastewater fixed septic riser covers that were broken, damaged, or mi ssing.
adding riser to concrete lid
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| Septic Tank – adding riser to concrete lid |
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| Author:kratman (GA)Question from homeowner on addingrisers to a concrete lid. I have a concrete tank (estimated at 1,500 gals, circa late 70’s) and the top is about 3 feet below ground level. The lid is composed of a series on concrete “planks” that are the width of the tank long and about 2.5 feet wide. So the planks sit laterally on top of the tank to form the lid. I am unsure how many planks are in total (since the entire lid was not exposed when it was recently pumped), but I would guess four planks total.Since the lid is so deep and pumping it made a real mess in my side yard from digging the area to expose the first plank, I wanted to add risers. The septic company wanted $1,500 to add two risers at both ends; but I wanted to explore some options. How does one add a riser to the plank units? Or would I go about getting this manufactured (precast company, etc)? I would guess the entire plank is replaced, but since they are only 2.5 wide, the riser diameter presents a problem. Thank in advance. |
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| Re: Septic Tank – adding riser to concrete lid |
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| Author:KCRoto (MO)Don’t take this wrong- I highly recommend having a riser installed to allow access to the tank.That being said, I don’t think that the average homeowner is up to the task of installing it.There are several factors in play.You need to have a riser that is larger than the current lid or has the same inside diameter as the opening you have currently.Then you need to consider the amount of weight that you are adding to the rim of the current opening.If you are adding too much weight, you could cause it to cave in.Also consider the weight of the riser itself when you would be installing it.Do you have the capability to set it properly?If you can handle the challenge, then I suggest contacting a local concrete vault or fabrication company; they can get you what you need as far as a riser and new tank lid.This forum isn’t for pricing, but I can tell you that in my opinion, adding risers, lids, and installation to two spots doesn’t seem unrealistic. |
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| Author:sharp1 (IL)The weight of the new lid and risers will be less than the weight of the 3′ of dirt removed. The company that cast the original tank and lid is probably in your area if still in business. |
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| Re: Septic Tank – adding riser to concrete lid |
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| Author:hj (AZ)Usually, the two end sections have “square” access openings above the baffles. if so, a section of 6″ ABS or PVC will cement into the opening with female adapters and plugs on top. |
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| Author:KCRoto (MO)Unless you installed it, you are making it up as you go.Septic tanks aren’t made to specific dimensions anywhere.I have seen concrete in varying sizes, shapes, and thicknesses. I have found them made of clay, steel, and plastic.Every concrete vault manufacturer has its own design, lid size, and placement. |
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| Author:Wheelchair (IL)I can tell you what I did.It worked for us.Our septic tank was 1200 gallon and concrete. We had 3 slabs, each having 2 loops of re-bar for lifting them.Each slab was about 3 ft x 5 ft and were laid side by side.I did exactly what you want to do.I made a frame using 2 X4 and plywood under.I was able to obtain a 3 ft piece of 20 inch PVC pipe.I secured the pvc inside of the form and secure everything with rows of re-bar.I oiled all of the wood and used plastic bags as a liner to keep the concrete off the forms.My neighbor was pouring a slab of concrete in his drive was and he had some extra material.3 wheel barrels and I pour the concrete into my form. I added 2 hook loops and let the concrete dry for 3 days before I removed the forms. The slab with the 3 ft stack was lifted and place on the edge of the septic tank.We back filled with dirt and sand to compact the area to almost the top of the stack.I went to a specality shop that sold septic system supplies.Only then did I realize that the industry made 4 inch x 22 inch, stackable flange pieces that snapped together to form any height.I purchased a 22 inch dome cover and placed it over the 20 inch pvc pipe.It worked perfectly and allowed me to add an additional 3-4 inches of dirt over the cover. No one walks on the cover.Removing 3-4 of dirt is a lot easier to do and repair.I’m happy and that was over 3 years ago.That’s 3 snowy winters.Best Wishes |
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| Author:hj (AZ)Maybe so where you are, but here, almost EVERY tank, regardless of who made it has an access port above the baffles. They also usually have a large center port, but no one installs a riser at that one. |
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| Re: Septic Tank – adding riser to concrete lid |
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| Author:KCRoto (MO)Many of the older tanks here don’t even have baffles. |
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| Thanks to all |
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| Author:kratman (GA)ok Thanks. All good ideas. I had thought about pouring the lid myself, and may do that. But I will speak to a tank manufacturer in the area first.I have not checked the middle of the tank for an existing access hole but will do that as well. 3 feet of Georgia clay is not much fun. Thanks. Kratman.Edited 1 times. |
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Risers & Adapters « The Septic Store
Regardless of whether your septic tank is made of plastic or concrete, it will need to be pumped every 3-5 years. If your tank is buried, this will necessitate the excavation of the site. By utilizing risers and tank adapters, you can elevate the lids of your concrete or plastic tank up to grade, allowing you to access the tank all year long for pumping, filter cleaning, and any other necessary maintenance. Having a clog and backup in your tank in January is something you don’t want to happen to you.
Polylok Adapters
Tank adapters and adapter rings are available from Polylok for the conversion of concrete and plastic tanks. It is possible to prepare your current tank for the Polylok riser system and lids by fitting the adapters on the tank’s existing risers. Available in two sizes: 20′′ and 24′′ in diameter.
Orenco AdaptersLids
In addition to concrete tank conversions, Orenco also provides solutions for plastic tank conversions. Their heavy-duty fiberglass adapters and lids are intended to operate with IPEX’s ultrarib or perma-lok pipe, which are both extremely robust and long-lasting.
EZset
Infiltrator Systems manufactures a product known as EZset. EZset not only serves as the principal riser system for Infiltrator’s brand of IM and TW series tanks, but it also provides tank adapters and lids for use when converting an existing concrete tank into a storage tank.
Premier Tech
Premier Tech’s tank adapter is one of the most substantial on the market. There are certain concrete tanks that have existing apertures that are bigger than the normal 30′′ tank adapter can handle.
Septic Tank Riser Installation
Tank risers are extensions of the tank lids that are already in place. They are installed in lieu of the current tank lids, bringing the septic tank’s access ports to, or slightly below, ground level in the process. Advantages of Using a Tank Riser
- There is no need for time-consuming and expensive excavating
- There is easy access to the tank
- There is rapid access for emergency pumping
- There is regular maintenance
Tank risers practically remove the need for excavating to expose the tank lids for pumping, which saves time and money. If the Alpha Omega is equipped with tank risers, it can readily pump the majority of tanks in less than an hour. In addition, in an emergency situation, the tank may be accessed swiftly and without interruption. Finally, because of the simplicity with which tank risers may be accessed, they encourage frequent maintenance. Alpha Omega suggests that two tank risers be installed on each septic tank, one on each lid, according to the manufacturer.
Regular septic tank lids, which do not extend above the level of the earth, must be buried at least six inches below the surface of the ground in order to prevent gases from leaking out.
We provide risers with a diameter of twenty-four inches to allow for the tank to be maintained correctly and thoroughly in the most effective manner possible.
They are made of a high-quality plastic that has been treated with UV protection. Tank lid risers, on the other hand, are not intended to be driven on since they are unable to support the weight of a vehicle.
What is a Septic Tank Riser and How Do You Install One?
Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links, which means that if you purchase a product after clicking on one of our links, we may receive a commission or free product from the firms featured in this post. Amazon is a good illustration of this. When you purchase a new house with a septic tank, there are numerous phrases that you may not have previously heard of or understood; one of these terms was Septic Tank Riser, which was new to me at the time. What is a Septic Tank Riser and how does it work?
It can be made of plastic or concrete.
Why Do You Need a Septic Tank Riser?
A septic tank riser is required for a variety of reasons, which you may wonder why you require one in the first place. Allow us to explain why you would want to access your septic tank access port in order to have a better understanding of what we are talking about. Whenever you need to empty your septic tank, you must get access to the pump-out outlet on the side of the tank. You will need to pump your tank about every three years, depending on the size of your tank, the number of people living in the house, and the amount of demand placed on the system.
- A septic tank riser is required for a number of reasons, so you may be wondering why you require one. Allow us to explain why you would want to access your septic tank access port in order to have a better understanding of this. Whenever you need to empty your septic tank, you must get access to the pump-out port on the side of the house. You will need to pump your tank about every three years, depending on the size of your tank, the number of people living in the house, and the demand placed on the system. As a result, if you have a septic tank without a riser, you will need to do the following tasks once every three years:
Depending on the depth of your plumbing and the shape of your land, the depth of your septic tank will vary. However, it is not uncommon for your septic tank access ports to be around 4 feet below the level of the service line. As a result, if you have a septic tank that does not have risers built, you will have to perform some digging every time you need to reach your septic tank.
What are the Pros and Cons of Installing a Septic Tank Riser?
- The apparent advantage is that you will make it much easier to reach your septic tank pumping port
- Nevertheless, When you need to have your tank emptied, this will save you a significant amount of time and effort. Additionally, if you are unable to perform the digging yourself, you will almost always see an increase in the price of your septic tank service bill owing to the additional time and effort that your pumping business will have to put in when pumping your septic tank. The presence of a septic tank riser will make it easier for purchasers who are inexperienced with septic systems to comprehend the system if you decide to sell your home.
Cons of Septic Tank Risers
- The most significant disadvantage of installing septic tank risers on your septic tank is that the lids will now be visible on the surface of your lawn, which can be a safety hazard. Which might be rather unsightly
- A septic tank riser will need to be installed if your tank does not already have one
- Otherwise, you will have to pay money to have one installed.
Can You Install a Septic Tank Riser on an Older Septic System?
It is quite likely that your septic system will have septic tank risers if you are having a new system installed. For those who have an older septic system, there is the possibility that your present septic system does not have septic tank risers installed. As a result, you may wonder if it is possible to put septic tank risers on an older septic tank. A septic tank riser may be installed on an older septic tank, and this is the correct answer.
How to Install a Septic Tank Riser?
Installing a septic tank riser on an older septic system may be accomplished in two different ways.
- Obtain the Services of a Septic Tank Professional: This is self-explanatory, but if you’re not handy, like me, you might not realize it. You should next get in touch with a local septic tank specialist and inform them that you have an older septic tank and that you would want septic tank risers to be fitted. To learn more, please visit this page. If you need assistance locating a local septic tank service, please contact us. Installing a septic tank riser on your own is possible if you follow these steps: If you opt to do it yourself, you will be able to successfully install a septic tank riser.
DIY- How to Install a Septic Tank Riser Yourself?
So, if you decide to build your septic tank riser on your own, these are the procedures you will need to do.
- Septic Tank Riser
- Transition Ring
- Caulk Gun with Henry’s Roofing Tar
- Septic Tank Riser Lid
- Septic Tank Riser
TO MAKE SURE THAT YOU GET THE RIGHT SIZES OF EVERYTHING, MAKE SURE THAT YOU CHECK THE SEPTIC TANK RISER, ADAPTIVE RING, AND LID FOR EACH ITEM. The following are the procedures you must follow in order to build your own septic tank riser on a concrete septic tank.
- Find the location of your septic tank. Place the plants just over the access openings, to be more specific
- Dig all the way down to the septic tank until you reach the top
- Remove the concrete tank’s cover and set it aside. Measure the opening on the diagonal, from corner to corner, starting at one end and ending at the other. This will provide you with the information you want on the size of the riser. Make certain that you measure from corner to corner at an angle, otherwise you may end up with a diameter that is too tiny. Connect the Riser to the transition ring and apply the roofing tar where the two pieces come together. Roofing tar should be applied at the bottom of the transition ring. Afterwards, attach the septic tank riser just above the tank access hole.
Please see the video below for a fast demonstration of how to install septic tank risers in the correct manner.
Installing your septic tank riser with anchors is a different method than the one described above.
What Brand of Septic Tank Riser is Best?
In terms of choosing an excellent septic tank riser, there are a handful of reliable manufacturers to consider. Tuf-Tite Septic Tank Risers, on the other hand, is the one that truly stands out in terms of consistent customer feedback. Because of this, you may find the Tuf-Tite Septic Tank Risers at your local septic tank wholesaler, or you can get them straight from Amazon, which is even more convenient. Here’s where you can get the most up-to-date pricing on Amazon. (Full disclosure: This is an affiliate link, which means that if you make a purchase after clicking on it, Amazon will provide me with a tiny commission.) If you do decide to go forward with it, please accept my thanks in advance.)
- Adaptive Rings for Septic Tank Riser can be found at the lowest prices on Amazon
- Click here to view the best Amazon pricing on Adaptive Rings for Septic Tank Riser.
Related Question
Polylok septic tank risers and lids are another brand of septic tank risers, lids, and adaptive rings that many people use and that you may shop and compare to the Tuf-Tite septic tank risers is another brand of septic tank risers, lids, and adaptive rings.
Do I need to install a septic tank riser on my septic tank?
The answer is no, you are not required to place a septic tank riser on your older septic tank. The absence of a riser will have no effect on the functioning or longevity of your septic tank. Only the amount of effort required to get to your septic tank access ports when it is being pumped will be influenced by this factor. Now, if your tank is difficult to access and this prompts you to put off emptying and pumping it as suggested, this might have a negative impact on the health of your septic tank.
Can you hide your septic tank lids after installing a Septic tank Riser?
As a result, the purpose of installing a septic tank riser is to make it much simpler to really reach your septic tank, therefore you should be cautious while attempting to conceal it in your yard. Never cover it up with shrubs or with any other permanent building that would prevent you from accessing the port for your septic tank pumping system. However, having said that, I understand that having the lids in the center of your yard can be a little unattractive. Using camouflage style lid coverings, which are made to seem like rocks or other natural features on your lawn, is one option you might consider using.
Take a peek at this page if you want to see some great covers that look like rocks.
For those who require septic system servicing, our state by state list may help you locate a qualified local professional.
How to Replace a Concrete Septic Lid With a Plastic Lid
Jupiterimages/Photos.com/Getty Images is the source of this image. In most cases, thick concrete lids over manholes and access holes are used to build concrete septic tanks, which are subsequently covered with soil after installation. While this is a satisfactory installation, many septic specialists recommend that the concrete lids be replaced with plastic risers and lids to provide for easier access to the tank for examining and cleaning the system.
The new plastic top is now easily accessible for pumping and maintenance thanks to the addition of a riser. The plastic lids are also bolted down, which adds an additional layer of protection for the homeowner and his or her family.
How to Replace a Concrete Septic Lid With a Plastic Lid
Remove any furniture, potted plants, yard décor, and other things from the surrounding area. Protect your pets, and keep other people and children away from the area. Put on your protective gear as well, such as gloves and safety goggles. When working with concrete, always use a dust mask or a respirator to protect your lungs from the silicates in the dry mix that can cause irritation.
Step 2: Locate the Tank and Lids
Identify the tank and its covers. As a result of the shallower soil and reduced ability to hold moisture for the lawn’s roots, dead grass may be an indication of the tank’s position. A metal detector may be used to discover rebar in concrete tanks, after which it can be probed to locate the edges.
Step 3: Remove the Soil
Remove all of the dirt that has accumulated on top of the septic tank. In most cases, the tank is located between 1 and 3 feet below the surface of the earth and up to 25 feet away from the home, depending on the conditions. When it comes to dimensions, the typical septic tank is around 4 1/2 feet broad and 8 feet long; however, larger tanks are available. Check for structural damage to the tank as well; cracks or a drooping top signal that repairs or replacement of the tank are necessary.
Step 4: Measure the Lid
All of the soil that has accumulated on top of the septic tank must be removed before continuing. In most cases, the tank is located between 1 and 3 feet below the surface of the earth and up to 25 feet away from the home, depending on the circumstances. When it comes to dimensions, the typical septic tank is around 4 1/2 feet broad and 8 feet long; however, smaller tanks are also available. Check for structural damage to the tank as well; cracks or a drooping top signal that the tank will need to be repaired or replaced soon.
Step 5: Remove the Lid
Remove the concrete covers from the containers and set them aside. Because the concrete lids are so heavy, it may be necessary to utilize a backhoe to complete this task. It is best not to breathe any of the fumes that are rising from the septic tank and to use a protective mask or respirator to minimize exposure.
Step 6: Adjust the Riser Height
Obtain an accurate measurement of the distance between the tank and the ground. Make any required adjustments to the riser in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions, or in older systems, consider installing a riser to raise the new lid to ground level. The present riser’s height can be reduced by drilling an appropriately sized hole in it and then trimming the surplus riser length using a jigsaw, as shown in the image below. Some manufacturers create adjustable risers, which eliminates the need for cutting.
Step 7: Rough the Riser Base
Using 40- to 60-grit sandpaper, sand the area around the base of the risers. Place the risers over the manholes, as well as the intake and outflow holes, after wiping them down with a tack cloth.
Step 8: Apply Concrete Patch Mix
In a bucket, combine the quick-drying, high-strength, flexible concrete repair mix that has been advised.
Work rapidly, since the mixture will dry in 15 to 20 minutes if left to sit. With a trowel, apply a generous amount of sealant around the bases of the risers, being sure to cover the edges all the way up to the top of the septic tank. Allow for a thorough drying time.
Step 9: Attach the New Lid
Set replacement lids on the risers, following the manufacturer’s instructions and using a socket wrench to secure them in place.
Step 10: Rebury the Tank
Make use of a socket wrench to secure the new lids to the risers in the manner specified by the manufacturer.
Tip
- Inspect and pump the tank (if necessary) while the lids are off
- This will save you time and money later on. After finishing the activity, thoroughly wash your hands and clothing with soap and hot water to remove any remaining dirt.
Warning
- You should never enter or even put your head inside a septic tank unless absolutely necessary. Every year, a number of people die as a result of the fumes produced by septic tanks
- You may pass out, fall in, and suffocate or drown. When the lids of the septic tank are open, never leave the tank alone, even for a single minute. It is possible for a kid or pet to fall in and drown
- Avoid driving over the risers and lids.
Septic Tanks Risers- Bring Your Access To Ground Level
A septic tank is not something you should ever enter or even look inside of. Every year, a number of people die as a result of the fumes produced by septic tanks; you may pass out, fall in, choke, or drown. When the septic tank lids are open, never leave the tank alone, even for a minute. You should not drive over the risers or the lids since a child or pet might become trapped in them.
THE POLYLOK ADVANTAGE
Septic tank risers are available in a variety of shapes, sizes, and designs on the current market. We believe our Polylok septic tank risers are the best money can buy in terms of quality. There are several causes for this, but the following are the most significant:
FACTORY INSTALLED GASKETS
The Polylok brand is the only one on the market that is sent to you from the factory with gaskets already in place, making it unique. This means that there is no further work necessary to ensure that the riser system is air and water tight! Keep ground water out of your tank, wastewater in your tank, and potentially hazardous gases out of your yard! In contrast to most other products, our Polylok septic tank risers do not require you to purchase or use any other type of sealant between each riser part.
INTERNAL STRUCTURAL RIBS
Once the hole has been backfilled, the structural ribs in the Polylok septic tank risers are inserted inside around each riser piece, providing them with tremendous strength and allowing them to maintain their shape under the pressure of the earth being pressed on them. As a result of the freezing and thawing of the ground in many parts of the country, it is necessary to have a smooth surface on the outside of the riser’s exterior. It is possible for items that have structural support on the outside of the riser to actually be lifted from the tank, causing damage to both the riser and seal, during periods of freezing and thawing.
LIDS WITH HANDLES
The access lid on a riser system is one of the most significant components since it is the part of the system that is visible from the outside and that must be removed every time the system is pumped or otherwise maintained. The Polylok lids are pre-installed with handles, which make it simple to remove the lid whenever you need to get access to the system or to replace it. The bottom of the lids is structurally supported, which allows them to remain relatively flat rather than domed in shape, as is the case with many other items on the market.
LARGE ADAPTER RING
An adapter ring is required in order to properly install septic tank risers on your septic tank.
We have one of the largest adapter rings available on the market, allowing you to cover up to a 25″ square or 27″ circular aperture with a Polylok adapter ring. This ring fits both 20″ and 24″ risers, allowing you to have a great deal of versatility no matter what size your opening happens to be!
GET OUT YOUR MEASURING STICK!
A few measures must be taken before purchasing a septic tank riser system in order to ensure proper installation. The first thing to consider is the size of your opening. Take a measurement of the aperture in your septic tank at its widest point to determine the size of your tank. Instead than measuring the present lid, it’s critical to measure the opening. Because you will be removing the present cover, the measurements of the lid are no longer important and may differ from the size of the aperture itself.
You are now prepared to make a purchase based on these two measures!
THE COMPLETE RISER SYSTEM
We have a large selection of components from which you may pick to create your own own full riser system. Our many various options offer our product the adaptability to be utilized in virtually any application, but they may also be a bit daunting when attempting to pick which components to buy for a certain application. Each component is discussed in further depth below.
ADAPTER RINGS
The adapter ring is the first component that you’ll need to put together in order to assemble a full riser system. The adapter ring attaches directly to the septic tank, allowing the risers to stack, lock, and mount to it without the need for any additional hardware. Having this component is critical since the risers are not flat on the bottom because they are meant to be stackable, and it is not feasible to install them straight to the septic tank without this piece. The adapter ring provides the flat surface you need to mount to the tank while also being able to accommodate the stackable risers that are included with the tank.
Our square tank adapter ring can accommodate big square apertures up to 25 inches in diameter and large round openings up to 27 inches in diameter.
They are intended to be used with openings that are 24″ or less in diameter.
Concrete anchors, a masonry bit for installing the anchors, and butyl sealer are all included in this set.
RISERS
Following your selection of the adapter ring, it is time to go shopping for risers. The Polylok risers are available in two heights: 6″ and 12″, as well as in two diameters: 24″ and 20″. Stackable, each unit has a gasket that has been fitted as well as stainless steel screws to allow for easy installation. Determine which risers will work best for your application based on the height measurement you made between the septic tank and ground level.
OPTIONAL SAFETY SCREEN
In addition to the 20″ and 24″ riser systems, Polylok also produces safety screens that fit within the riser systems.
These screens serve as a supplementary layer of protection in the event that the riser cover is unintentionally damaged or removed, and they keep foreign objects from entering the septic tank. They also keep dogs from slipping into unprotected septic tank openings!
RISER LIDS
You will require a lid to complete your riser system, which is the final component you will require. Both the 20″ and 24″ riser systems may be used with the Polylok lids, which are available in two different types to suit your needs. For ease of access, the basic lid is equipped with handles and a gasket that has been factory placed, as well as stainless steel screws to keep it in place. These lids are strong enough to withstand foot traffic as well as the weight of a riding lawn mower driving across them.
- Stainless steel screws are included for installation.
- Installations below grade or in regions with a high volume of foot traffic are advised for the heavy-duty lids.
- The shipping of these items in large boxes necessitates the addition of additional time, materials, and UPS shipping fees.
- If you place your order before 2 PM CST, you will be able to get your order sent the same day you placed it.
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS
The following are some of the most commonly asked inquiries that our customer support representatives are asked. Take a peek below; it’s possible that the queries you have have been answered!
WILL THE LID FIT DIRECTLY ON THE ADAPTER RING OR DO I NEED TO USE A RISER?
With the exception of the 24″ Heavy Duty Lid, the lid will often fit straight onto the adapter rings in the majority of cases. The underside of the 24″ Heavy Duty Lid is strengthened for added strength. The height of this reinforcement is actually more than the height of the adapter ring. Therefore, the 24″ Heavy Duty Lid will only be able to be used without using an adapter when the opening is at least 24″ in diameter. The lid will not fit through any aperture less than 24 inches in diameter.
CAN I CUT THE RISER SYSTEM DOWN TO A SPECIFIC HEIGHT?
No, the Polylok riser system is available in increments of 6″ and 12″, and it cannot be customized to a certain height. Cutting the riser will result in the lid not being adequately secured on the riser that has been cut down.
DO I BRING THE RISER SYSTEM JUST BELOW, AT, OR ABOVE GRADE?
It is entirely up to you whether you want to bring the riser system up to grade, raise it above grade, or leave it slightly below grade. Because the riser system is airtight and watertight, there is no danger in moving it up to or above grade level.
SHOULD I USE THE STANDARD OR THE HEAVY DUTY LID?
The regular lid is sturdy enough to withstand foot activity and weights up to the weight of a small riding lawn mower passing over it without bending or breaking.
If the riser system is located in a high traffic location or is going to be run over by lawn equipment on a frequent basis, the heavy duty lid is recommended. If you have any more queries, please contact us at 1-877-925-5132 or [email protected].
