- The grinder pump should be located inside of your house. It is typically attached to the drain pipe that flows out of the house and into the septic tank. Trace your plumbing to the main drain in the house then follow the drain to where it leaves the building.
How much does it cost to install a grinder pump?
The average cost for installing the grinder pump is approximately $4,000-$5,000, but varies per property. The cost for electricity to the grinder pump is similar to that of a 40-watt light bulb, which is about $15 to $20 per year. This is in addition to the connection fee of $2,530.
Can you use a grinder pump with a septic system?
Septic grinder pumps should not be paired with septic tank systems because the slurry is so finely ground that it won’t separate from the liquid once inside the septic tank. This means that it won’t get sent on to the secondary system, which can destroy your underground leach field.
Where are grinder pumps located?
A grinder pump is a pump that’s located at the low spot in your house or in your yard. The pump grinds up the wastewater—much like a garbage disposal—and then pumps it up to the nearest municipal sewer line.
How does a grinder pump work?
How does a grinder pump work? When the wastewater in the tank reaches a certain level, it automatically activates the pump to grind up your sewage into small particles, much like a garbage disposal. The pump then generates enough pressure to push the wastewater up the hill through your sewer line to the sewer main.
How long do grinder pumps last?
You can expect a sewage grinder pump to last 6 to 16 years, with an average of 9 years. A grinder pump is installed along the drain line to a municipal sewer system or private septic tank when the pipe slope is not enough to flow by gravity.
How often do grinder pumps need to be replaced?
Grinder pumps average eight years between service calls, so minimal regular maintenance is required when operated under normal conditions.
How often should a grinder pump run?
The pump is programmed to operate in cycles, rather than continuously. Cycles are determined by the amount of water used. Usually after 20 gallons have entered the tank, your grinder pump will turn on. On a typical day, this cycle will repeat itself 10 to 20 times.
How long does it take to replace a grinder pump?
Sewage system specialists cost $75 to $100 per hour, and installing a grinder pump takes anywhere from six to 10 hours of work. You’ll save money if you try and tackle this project on your own, but you may lose out in the long term if you miss a crucial element during the installation process.
Do I need a sewage pump or a grinder pump?
You should only use a Sewage Grinder Pump when one the following apply to your application: When pumping to a pressurized sewer main. When pumping a very long distance (750 feet or more) You have a high vertical distance to lift the sewage (minimum of 30 feet)
Is a sewage pump the same as a grinder pump?
Some sewage pumps are grinder pumps, but not all. Grinder pumps are a subtype of sewage pumps. Generally speaking, sewage pumps that are not grinder pumps can move sewage solids up to two inches in diameter that are easy to break down or dissolve.
How do you maintain a grinder pump?
What to Check during Septic Grinder Pump Maintenance
- Inspect oil level and check for contamination in septic grinder pump motor chamber.
- Inspect pump impeller and body for any clogs or clotting (buildup).
- Inspect pump motor and bearings.
- Inspect grinder pump motor seal for wear and possible leaks.
Does a grinder pump smell?
Normally functioning grinder pumps do make some sounds when they turn on, but it should not be disruptive. They also emit minimal, if any, odor. You should notice only a slight increase to your electric bill since the pump should only be running a few times a day.
Sewage pump for mother-in-law unit
In my backyard, I’m constructing a separate mother-in-law unit. The MIL’s primary waste line will connect to the waste stack in the main dwelling, which is located on the basement floor and exits the building. This is a 60-foot length of run. However, because the point at where the waste line leaves the MIL is about level with the cleanout at the bottom of the basement floor, I am unable to employ a conventional gravity sewage system. So I’m in the market for a sewage ejector, and I’m not sure how to tell the difference between a $500 unit and a $7,000 one because I don’t have any experience with them.
What factors should I consider while choosing a type?
Would you recommend installing the ejector just outside the MIL, having it pump waste vertically for a couple of feet, and then running a conventional gravity sewage line from that high point to the house?
The two configurations are visible to me, but there is no information regarding when each should be used (perhaps because I am not familiar with the proper terminology).
For the record, in the event that someone suggests that you tie into the side sewer rather than your home’s waste stack, the reason this isn’t an option is that, where I live (Seattle), the county will charge you an additional $10,000 hookup fee if you connect a detached dwelling to the side sewer anywhere after the cleanout.
A plumbing forum for professionals and do-it-yourselfers alike.
Septic pump installation guide
- INSTALLATION PROCEDURES FOR SEPTIC PUMPS, SEPTIC EJECTORS, AND GRINDER PUMPS
InspectAPedia does not allow any form of conflict of interest. The sponsors, goods, and services described on this website are not affiliated with us in any way. Installation instructions for a septic pump or sewage ejector pump: This article discusses sewage ejector pumps and domestic or light commercial-use sewage grinder pumps, which are used to transport wastewater from low-lying regions to a septic tank or a municipal sewer system, respectively. This septic pump or sewage pump article series will assist you in diagnosing and repairing issues with sewage pumps, performing routine sewage ejector pump maintenance, and, if necessary, selecting and purchasing a sewage pump for your home or business.
Allowable uses of this content include making a reference to this website and providing a brief quotation for the sole purpose of review.
For this topic, we also have anARTICLE INDEX available, or you may check the top or bottom of the page. Use the SEARCH BOX to discover the information you’re looking for quickly.
Guide to Sewage Grinder Pump Installation PartsProcedures
Waste from the bathroom or other plumbing fixtures it serves is collected and processed by the sewage grinder pump, which is contained in a plastic or steel reservoir. When a float within the reservoir shows that the amount of sewage in the reservoir has reached a dangerously high level, the float activates the grinder pump, which grinds and pumps the waste out. It is a sewage grinder pump, as seen at the top of this page, that grinds the waste and pumps the solid/liquid mixture to the building’s main drain.
- Pumping station for the sewage grinder(this is an Environment One Grinder Pump System)
- Lifting the eyes in preparation for dismantling the assembly (the circles at the mid-tank seam)
- Leads for electrical wiring for the grinder pump and the septic pump alarm
- Disconnect box for the grinder pump system’s electrical power
- The pump’s drain intake is a 4-inch PVC tank inlet that connects to the building’s drains that are supplied by the pump. Vent for the sewage pump tank. Septic grinder tanks must be vented directly or through the inflow pipe to a building plumbing vent stack located within 4 feet of the tank, whichever is most convenient. In this line, wastewater is drawn into the tank by gravity, rather than by force of the pump. 900 pounds, or approximately 6 cubic feet, of concrete to prevent the tank from floating up out of the ground
- 6″ deep of rounded pea gravel for the septic pumping tank bedding
- 1 1/4″ male pipe thread discharge outlet (the small diameter pipe leaving the tank at top right and passing through the foundation wall)
- Concrete septic pumping tank ancho r (900 pounds, or approximately 6 cu.ft. of concrete to prevent the tank from floating up out of the ground)
- Sewage Pumping Tank bedding
(This illustration is taken from the Environment One Low Pressure Sewer Systems Grinder Pump brochure.) Wastewater or Septic Grinder pumps ground the solid waste entering the system before pumping it to the building’s drainage system. The building sewer drain then transports this combination either by gravity (in a gravity main system) or by pump pressure (in a forced main system) to its final destination, which is either a septic tank and drainfield system or a public sewer. Home and small commercial septic grinders are intended for use in residential and small business settings.
A summer camp community, for example, that used this force-main sewer system to transport waste from buildings across a property encompassing many acres to a communal septic system was one of the communities we visited.
For the most part, an electric motor of 1/3 to 2 horsepower is used to power the grinder mechanism, which grinds the waste, and an actual sewage waste pump, which moves the ground sewage/wastewater mixture up a riser pipe to its destination: the building main sewer drain, where it is carried to a septic tank or to the public sewer system.
Sewage Pump Installation Details
- Read the instruction manualfrom the grinder pump manufacturer If you don’t have a copy of your pump’s instruction manual, Sewage / Septic Grinder Pump Installation Tips adapted from Zoeller Pumpsother sources installation manuals are given at the end of this page at REFERENCES
- Install a duplexor two-pump system, as well as a pump alarm system, if your building is at risk of being damaged by system overload, or if the pump system is unable to keep up with the rate at which water or waste is being pumped into the system. Check for the required for local building permits, electricalplumbing inspections, code compliance requirements for your installation
- Electrical power for the sewage or septic pump
- Read the manufacturer’s instruction booklet for the grinder pump before using it. When it comes to your pump, if you don’t have a handbook, Installing a sewage/septic grinder pump according to instructions from Zoeller Pumps and other sources Installation instructions are provided at the bottom of this page. REFERENCES
- Installation of a duplexor two-pump system, as well as a pump alarm system, if your building is at risk of being destroyed by a system overload, or if the pump system is unable to keep up with the pace at which water or waste is being pumped into it Investigate whether your installation is subject to local building permits, electrical and plumbing inspections, or code compliance requirements. The sewage pump or septic tank requires electrical power.
- The sewage or septic pumping basin, well, or chamber is located here.
- Pumping basin, well, or chamber used for sewage or septic pumping
- The discharge pipe’s diameter must not be less than the diameter of the sewage pump’s discharge pipe connection opening
- Otherwise, the discharge pipe will fail. If a check valve is not put in the pump’s discharge line, the pump will pump the same wastewater over and over again with each pumping cycle. The discharge line should be equipped with a check valve vent that is positioned at the right level. For more information, seeSEPTIC / SEWAGE PUMP DISCHARGE VENT. The installation of a gate valve or a ball valve before a Unicheck or a union on the pump discharge line is recommended to allow for service of the pump assembly.
- In order to test the pump’s performance, turn on the electricity and fill the pumping chamber halfway with clean water.
Sewage, Grinder, SepticEfflulent Pump or Sump Pump Vent Opening RequirementsTurbulence
The weep hole, also known as the sewage / effluent / ejector pump discharge line vent hole, is designed to allow air held in the discharge line to be released at the start of a pump-on cycle. This vent helps to prevent clogging of the discharge line and failure of the pump seal. It is important to note that certain grinder pumps have a vent aperture located directly in the pump housing, opposite the float control. In spite of this, the vent in the discharge line is still necessary. The position of the weep hole vent for a typical grinder or effluent discharge pump discharge line is highlighted and circled in blue at the bottom left of our figure.
- Zoeller points out that when this valve is installed, the installer will need to drill a 3/16-inch hole “(5mm) vent orifice in the discharge line at a height that is equal to or higher than the pump’s top.
- When the pump is functioning, you should be able to see water squirting out of this aperture.
- If a check valve is used in the installation, a vent hole (about 3/16 inch) must be provided “For the unit to be completely purge of trapped air, a hole must be bored into the discharge pipe below the check valve and pit cover.
- Clogging of the vent opening should be examined on a regular basis.
- Keep an eye out for: As a further precaution, Zoeller advises against the installation of vent holes on high-head sump or ejector pump installations: The presence of a vent hole in a High Head application may result in excessive turbulence.
- If you decide not to drill a vent hole, make certain that the pump case and impeller are completely submerged in liquid before connecting the pipe to the check valve and that no air is being drawn into the pump intake through the inlet.
NOTE: THE HOLE MUST ALSO BE LOCATED BELOW THE BASIN COVER AND CLEANED ON A REGULAR BASIS During the time when the pump is running, the waterstream will be visible via this opening. – Zoeller’s etymology (2009)
Set the Sewage Ejector Pump Float Control Switch
The sewage pump is controlled by a float control switch, which is used to turn it on and off. Make sure that the switch position and the float positions that control the pump’s on and off times are adjusted in accordance with the manufacturer’s installation instructions before using the pump. In most cases, the float switches used on sump pumps and sewage ejector pumps are programmed to activate the pump well before the holding chamber is in danger of flooding the building, and to deactivate the sewage pump while the pump body, or at the very least the pump impeller assembly, is below the level of the liquid in the holding chamber.
Little Giant makes the sewage pump seen at left, which may be purchased at plumbingsupply.com and other plumbing supply stores nationwide.
Guide to Non-Clogging Sewer Pumps
Grinders and non-clogging sewage pumps, sometimes known as “non-clogs,” work in a similar way to the grinder pumps outlined above, but they have a larger capacity and may transfer materials as large as 4 inches in diameter to a sewer main or waste management system. Pumps that do not clog are utilized in certain home installations, although they are more commonly found in business or community systems, as well as at SEWAGE PUMPING STATIONS.
Reader CommentsQ A
John You are accurate in that you should not be able to smell sewer gas at that point since the sewage ejector station event that you are referring to is normally an air input valve rather than an air output valve. When determining if the sewage stench that you are noticing is flowing down from the rooftop vent is greater outside or whether you are smelling it more inside, it would be helpful to check whether there is a leak in a vent pipe or drain system in the building. I have a tiny holding tank in my basement that is below grade.
- The tank has a little vent pipe on the side that leads into the basement, which is convenient.
- However, anytime we take a shower anyplace in the home, we can smell the sewage coming from the rooftop ventilation pipe.
- What could possibly go wrong?
- Alternatively, is the grinder pump put directly on the basin bottom or is it hung a few inches above the basin floor?
- Bob In a home plumbing drain system that is linked to a private septic tank and absorption field, a septic pump, which is most likely a sewage ejector pump assuming the proper pump was selected, pushes waste out of the drain system and into the septic tank and absorption field.
In the event that you don’t know whether or not your graywater is being directed to a separate location, and if you don’t have access to a septic/graywater system drawing and plan and can’t find one at your local building and zoning department, you’ll have to follow the pipes, which can be a difficult task if the pipes and the ground are frozen.
- Is the second of the two “It is routed through the tank or through a conduit containing gray water that is pushed straight to the field.
- See AIR ADMITTANCE VALVES (AAVs) for further information.
- It is believed that he need the pump since the soil line is too close to the top of the crawl space for a Studor valve to be put at the minimum required height, according to him.
- Does this seem realistic to you?
- I’m not responsible for any of this, but I do want to provide the best advise I can in this situation.
- dm It is not necessary to put the unit into the ground as long as it is securely supported against tipping and the elevations operate effectively in terms of drainage into the unit.
- Is it necessary for the basin to be buried in the ground or may it be placed on the concrete floor?
Continue reading at theSEWAGE PUMP BUYERS GUIDEMANUAL website. Select a topic from the closely-related articles listed below, or browse the entireARTICLE INDEX for more information. Alternatively, consider the following:
SepticSewage Pump Articles
- SEPTIC SYSTEM PUMPS
- SEPTIC PUMP ALARM SYSTEMS
- SEPTIC PUMP DUPLEX DESIGNS
- SEPTIC PUMP INSPECTIONMAINTENANCE
- SEPTIC PUMP INSTALLATION
- SEWAGE PUMP BUYERS GUIDEMANUALS
- SEWAGE PUMP DAMAGEREPAIR
- SEWAGE ODOR SOURCE LOCATION
- SEWA PUMPING STATIONS
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Whole house sewage pump recommendation?
We have a failing septic tank that needs to be connected to the municipal sewage system. It’s approximately a 300-foot run to the sewer, and because of the fall, we’re about 3 feet deeper than the gravity main at this point. The site is relatively accessible, and all of the excavation will take place over grass or tiny shrubs, which are not of concern to me. Because the sewer lateral is already on the front lawn, there is no requirement for street construction. The house has four bedrooms and four bathrooms.
- I want a reliable system, however this appears to be overkill in my opinion.
- We don’t require anything like that, according to two other contractors.
- One person said that we would need the E-ONE if we were pumping up a mountain, but we’re just going up about 10 feet here.
- However, there is still a great deal to learn and a great deal of money on the line if I am to be a fairly informed consumer.
We want the alarm, and we like the notion of having a backup pump in case the main one goes out. It will be at a safe distance from the house, so noise and access will not be an issue. Any suggestions or tips would be much appreciated. Thanks!
Saniflo’s Sanibest Pro heavy-duty grinder pump chosen as a cost-saving solution for unusual floating bathroom application
It is necessary to connect our aging septic tank to the municipal sewage system. With the fall, we’ve dug ourselves roughly 3 feet deeper than the gravity main on the 300-foot line to the sewer. The site is fairly accessible, and all of the excavation will take place over grass or tiny shrubs, which are not of particular concern to myself. No roadway work is required because the sewer lateral is already on the front lawn. Four-bedroom, four-bath house The initial recommendation was for E-ONE, and we were offered the option of a simplex or duplex arrangement, which cost a stunning $18,000 and $22,000, respectively.
- If we were to spend that much money on a tie-in, we’d most likely relocate.
- We were told that grinder pumps (such as the E-ONE) are only used for pressure sewers and that all we needed was something to transport the sewage to a gravity main.
- However, they did not provide an estimate at this time, although they estimated it to be between $4 and $5,000.
- The obvious choice is an out-of-sight/out-of-mind pump that will provide years of trouble-free operation and will not jam if a tampon or diaper is accidentally flushed down the toilet.
- No noise or access will be a problem because it will be at a safe distance in the yard, It would be extremely appreciated if anyone had any pointers.
How to Put Two Houses on One Septic System
Photograph courtesy of Valerie Loiseleux/E+/Getty Images.
In This Article
- Legal Issues that might arise
- Are you sure you want to share your information
- Instructions on How to Do the Hookup
Every residential unit is often required to have its own septic tank, and each septic tank should be connected to its own drain field. However, there are certain cases in which sharing a single septic system is necessary, such as when two or more condominiums or mobile homes are built on the same parcel of property. A shared septic tank or septic system creates concerns of usage and maintenance for the parties that share it, and not all local health departments approve it. However, when sharing is both legal and practicable, the actual plumbing isn’t that difficult to figure out and maintain.
This is due to the fact that the number of bedrooms is a more accurate predictor of the number of people who will be utilizing the facility.
You would be required to submit an application for a permission.
The easement would become part of the deed and would stay in effect for as long as the system is in operation, and it might detract from the value of the original property in the case of a sale by making it less appealing to potential purchasers.
A shared septic system provides a variety of challenges in terms of consumption, including:
- If one home is careful about what they flush and the other is not, the conscientious household may suffer as a result of the non-conscientious household’s actions. Consider the following scenario: one family may flush sanitary items that might produce a clog, resulting in effluent backing up into the basement of the other household
- Septic systems require regular care and maintenance, and an agreement must be reached between the parties about how the costs will be shared.
- Additions to either residence might be prohibited because of the shared environment.
- Due to the possibility of being held accountable for any complications that develop during the installation process, you may have difficulty finding a septic firm that is prepared to take on the project.
Assuming that all legal difficulties have been settled and that all necessary agreements have been placed in writing, the actual connecting should be rather straightforward. Because septic tanks only have one intake port, if two houses use the same septic tank, the waste lines from each of them must be connected to form a single line that feeds the tank. It is typically a simple matter of feeding the waste lines into an appropriate drainage tee that discharges into the tank to complete the installation.
For example, if each home has its own septic tank and the owners wish to utilize a single drain field, the waste lines departing the tank would have to come together at a common place, such as a distribution box, in order for a single line to feed the drain field to be effective.
OT(ish) Shop bathroom far from septic, advice!?
- My store is approximately 175 feet away from my septic tank on flat ground. Code envorcement instructed me to install a toilet with a grinder pump and pump the waste through a level pipe to a sewage treatment plant. Does anyone have any previous experience with this? Is it prone to being clogged after a lengthy level run? Costs? This isn’t an option at this time. I don’t have the space or the funds to install another septic system, and the 250-yard run to the home is too long for me with my gut issues
- Medfab: Take a look at these guys: Greetings from Environment One. We’ve used many of them throughout the years. Exceptionally dependable. Providing you don’t put the wrong stuff into the pump, they will not become clogged. They’ll pump hundreds of feet at a time. It was a pleasure doing business with them. Regards, DB
- If you’re using a 4″ pipe, you’ll need a fall of 22 inches over a distance of 175 feet. What is the depth of your sewer system’s entrance pipe
- Their usage in basements (such as ours) is widespread
- One of our bathrooms is below grade, with the pumped outflow routed through 2″ PVC up approximately 10 feet and then slightly sloping after that. I purchased a spare pump around 15 years ago, “knowing” that I would use it. The previous one is still in excellent condition fifteen years after it was purchased. The only safeguard I can recommend is to install clean outs every 45 to 95 feet, or every 45 to 95 feet (depending upon how long an auger you might maybe want to mess with). It has not clogged in our situation
- I do not believe that anything clogs these Liberty pumps
- I have a toilet in my shop that empties into a sump that is serviced by a 2 horsepower impeller type sewage pump. Through a 2″ PVC tube, this pump transports the waste approximately 60 feet to the main sewage line, which is approximately 20 feet above the pump. It’s a Meyers pump, and it’s been doing its job without a hitch for more than two decades. It is neither a gear pump or a chopper pump
- Rather, it is an impeller pump that tears up the material as a result of its natural spinning movement, similar to a water pump. Stuart
- Purchase a composting toilet that has been code authorized. Don’t even think about the pump system. The issue has been resolved. Was this a problem from the beginning of the installation, or did it just become apparent later? Or did this issue arise as a result of a toilet change? Low flush toilets, according to my now deceased father in law, who worked as a plumber, are an issue for septic systems, as he discovered. Can you find an old 5 gallon tank that’s about to be taken away and see if it will assist with the increased flush volume requirement? A pump may temporarily solve the problem, but it will eventually fail, and then it will be a pain to repair
- Fortunately, my father was a foresighted individual. When he erected the extension to the barn that we know today, he included provisions for plumbing. Water and sewage lines have been installed. Water has been utilized in the store for a long time, but it has never been anything more than a faucet head in the wall slightly above the floor level until recently. Last year, I finally got around to installing a heater, sink, and toilet in my home. It’s amazing how convenient it is. I also have a dishwasher, but I haven’t gotten around to connecting it to electricity yet. It’s a good idea to wash components in it. The septic tank is only a few hundred feet distant and has the proper slope to it. Dad also had three phase installed, although he didn’t have any three phase equipment at the time of the installation. The power provider installed the equipment at no cost for the first connect up. He didn’t start using 3 PH until he built his own woodshop a number of years later. It’s also beneficial for my machine shop, because the Enviroment One system was both expensive to install and much more expensive to fix. They were awarded the contract to provide all of the pumps in the town where my mother resides. When the pump fails, I attempt to purchase a replacement pump. However, it is only available through a “rep” and costs around $1200 to install. No problem, how much would you like for the pump alone? $1200. To summarize, get a basic pit and a nice grinder pump (about $250) and you will be ready to start mining. The use of the sewage grinder pump will ensure that there are no obstructions
- This one gives me the creeps. Our township installed sewage a couple of years ago. As a result of my right of way grant, they chose to go to the front street and excavated several hundred feet 12 feet deep JUST to find me. Following ME, it was 4 feet. My digger excavated 162 feet, 9 to 12 feet deep, and I hired a surveyor to take pictures of the hole. I’m not going to fall. It took MONTHS of coming to meetings and arguing that there was no fall to prove this point. Engineers are adamant that there is. So, to sum it up: they were wrong, and they had to go down the alley, cover 162′ of unnecessary excavation, and then dig another 162′ down to the low point. Originally, we anticipated that there would be no need for pumps. In my instance, they stated that IF I did not have a fall, THEY would install a grinding pump. There is no fall and only a handful of turds that potentially obstruct the 4″ line. George the fourth
- I have very little knowledge on this issue aside from the fact that I know a couple of people at work who have comparable systems and who both had alarms placed to detect system failures. They have both had failures in their lives. I’m not sure what I’m trying to communicate exactly. Unless American turds are different from British turdsa fall between 1 in 40 and 1 in 60 on a 4″ drain will maintain a self cleansing velocity, though I’d put a rodding eye in every 60 – 80 feet – if only for my own convenience
- If American turds are different from British turdsa fall between 1 in 40 and 1 in 60 on a 4″ drain will maintain a self cleansing velocity, though I’d put For the record, I’d steer clear of any type of pumped sewage system if at all feasible
- This would be a brand-new installation. Only the toilet and sink are available. One 90-degree turn would be present over the 175′. The septic tank pipe is approximately 20 inches below the surface of the earth. At the very least. What is the proper way to install a grinder pump? Excavate a trench outside the business and place a concrete box within
- When we were constructing our business, we ran into a similar problem. We were around 200 feet away from the existing tanks and leach field, which were somewhat uphill. A separate septic system for the shop, complete with a higher leach field (due to high groundwater levels), was developed by the first engineer we engaged, but it proved too expensive to construct. There was a less costly solution proposed by another engineer. We constructed a standard(double) septic tank outside the shop, followed by a lift station to handle the waste water. As soon as the amount of liquids in the pump station exceeds a particular threshold, the waste is pushed 200 feet to the original septic system. Because it only handles liquids, there is very little possibility of the 200′ line being clogged with debris. The one (slight) downside is that the sediments in the tanks outside the shop must be pumped out on a regular basis, but this would have been necessary even if a separate septic system had been installed. Mebfab had first posted this. What is the proper way to install a grinder pump? Excavate a pit outside the business and place a concrete box inside? That’s really the gist of it. When I went to my store in town, the only available sewer line was too high to access. We built our own lift station, complete with a concrete manhole cage and a grinder pump, which we installed ourselves. pump it upward to the municipal sewage system It has been 12 years since there have been any significant problems. It is not difficult to have the grinder pump upward, but if you get a lot of frost, I would dig deeper and let it pump some more uphill rather than having it freeze. Limy, I’m assuming that’s a reference to myself. You state that it is around 1/3 to 1/5 inch per foot. I had less than a tenth of a cent per foot. That would not be sufficient. George
- A lift station will suffice in this situation. I have a toilet approximately 200 feet away from the septic system, which needs to pump upwards about 4 vertical feet to reach it. I utilized a 2″ ABS discharge pipe that was linked to a chopper pump for this project. I purchased a fiberglass container with a steel cover that was specifically built for this purpose and was fastened on. Pump, sewer type check valve and float switch are all included within this structure, which is embedded in the concrete floor.
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Connecting an ADU or Tiny House to your existing sewer?
A dissatisfied potential client calls because she’s having problems obtaining an ADU permit from the local municipality in which she lives (accessory dwelling unit) Does this sound familiar? In most communities in the Puget Sound region, you can use your house’s existing sewage connection to the city sewer main to connect your mother-in-law suite or accessory dwelling unit (ADU) construction that is erected on the same land as your home. In this particular instance, the original house was erected in the 1930s or so.
The city requires a slew of paperwork, including a site plan with elevations that includes the location of an existing underground sewer line.
This information may be hard to get unless the current sewer line is dug up and examined closely.
Using aerial photographs, it is simple to show the positions of buildings, roadways, walkways, and other features.
We can move the camera anywhere in the pipe and determine its location, including its depth and orientation, with the help of the camera.
Together with measurements from existing permanent structures, this information may be used to map the position of existing underground pipe and calculate the direction of flow as well as the amount of fall that any pipe may experience.
The installation of a sewage ejection pump will be necessary if the required minimum slope cannot be achieved.
By using this information to determine the path of the new pipe, we may be able to make route alterations in order to avoid adjacent structures or landscaping.
This information may now be included in our site plan, which will be submitted to the appropriate authorities for approval. We have not disturbed any soil and, as a result, have saved our consumers a significant amount of money.