How To Install A Clean Out Line Septic Tank?

• Place an appropriate amount of gravel or clean rock in the trenches at least 12 inches deep. Make sure to check your local regulations. Lay your perforated 4-inch PVC pipe on top of the rock or gravel. This piping will carry your liquid waste from the home. Connect your septic lines to your tank outflow line.

Where do you install cleanouts?

Cleanouts shall be installed at each change of direction greater than 45 degrees (0.79 rad) in the building sewer, building drain and horizontal waste or soil lines.

What is a septic cleanout pipe?

The septic systems cleanout is the short PVC pipe with removable cap that sticks out of the ground between your house and the septic tank. If the cleanout does contain backup, it could be from the septic system or it could be a blockage between the cleanout and the tank.

How far apart are septic Cleanouts?

Cleanouts shall be installed not more than 100 feet (30 480 mm) apart in horizontal drainage lines measured from the upstream entrance of the cleanout.

Why are there 2 sewer cleanouts?

A two-way cleanout provides access in both directions. With this U-shaped cleanout, we are able to use it to access both the yard and the house lines.

How many Cleanouts should a house have?

For every house, there’s usually only one sewer cleanout Ideally, all houses should have a main sewer cleanout. But a few don’t, while some larger houses can have as many as three. Whenever there is a blockage in your main drain line, this is the plumbing fitting to look for.

How do you seal a septic outlet pipe?

The tar sealant can be used to fill the void between the concrete and pipe. Use a trowel to press the sealant into the void. If the rubber gasket is molded into the tank for the pipe, tighten it up.

How deep should septic drain field be?

A typical drainfield trench is 18 to 30 inches in depth, with a maximum soil cover over the disposal field of 36 inches.

Where is the drain line on a septic tank?

The inlet into the septic tank is typically near the top. Also near the top of the tank is a pipe that leads into the yard, into an area known as the drain field. When water in the septic tank reaches a certain level, this drain takes the water out of the tank and into the ground around the tank.

What does a drain cleanout look like?

The cleanout is usually a 4-inch-diameter pipe with a screw cap that has a square knob or indentation on the top. It’s most likely going to be popping up from the ground outside your home between the foundation and the street. The cleanout might also be on the side of the home, closest to the bathroom.

Can I cut my septic vent pipe in yard?

They shouldn’t be removed but they can be cut down, level with the ground. Other white pipes may be standing above your septic tank, pump tank or close to your foundation. Those are available for maintenance, if needed, and shouldn’t be removed. Again, they can all be cut down close to the ground surface and recapped.

What does a cleanout plug look like?

A drain cleanout provides access to your main sewer line and is located outside of your home in the front or back yard. Cleanouts typically go unnoticed until there is a problem. They look like capped pipes sticking a few inches above the ground.

How to Add a Clean-Out to an Old Septic Line

Home-Interior Incorporating a clean-out valve into a septic system can help to avoid or alleviate a variety of plumbing difficulties. Cleaning up a septic system involves nothing more than a pipe that is connected to the septic line on one end and covered with a detachable cap on the other. A clean-out can be used by a homeowner or a plumber to quickly and effectively remove obstructions or build-up from a septic line. The majority of newer homes come with at least one septic line clean-out, while many older properties do not have any of these features.

Getting Started

1. Determine the location of the intended clean-out area. Ensure that there is at the very least a clean-out between the home and the sewer line. As an alternative, you may put one on each story of the home
2. Clean-outs that are to be situated behind walls should be exposed by using a drywall saw to cut through the drywall and reveal the pipe. For outdoor clean-outs, the dirt around and beneath the pipe where the clean-out will be situated must be dug first. Clean the pipe in the region where the clean-out will be installed, and then connect the clean-out to the pipe with a pipe connector. Instructions on how to use the three basic types of pipe frequently found in septic systems are provided below.

Connecting to a Terra Cotta Sewer Line

1. Using the rubber connection saddle, mark the location of the hole. This saddle will allow the clean-out to be connected to the terra cotta pipe
2. Make the hole in the terra cotta pipe by gently tapping on it until the terra cotta cracks. Enlarge the hole slowly and steadily, until it reaches the required size. Place the saddle on top of the pipe and tighten it. Align the saddle’s hole with the pipe’s hole by slipping the saddle over the pipe’s hole. To attach the saddle to the pipe, use the hose clamps that came with it. Insert the PVC clean-out pipe into the saddle’s hole using a pipe cutter. Connect the saddle to the pipe once again with the hose clip that came with the saddle.

Connecting to a PVC Septic Line

1. Cut the current septic line with a PVC or hacksaw to make it more manageable. Glue a T-fitting onto the existing line, making sure to attach both ends of the cut pipe to the fitting
2. And Connect and glue the PVC septic clean-out pipe to the “T” part of the fitting
3. This will prevent the pipe from leaking.

Connecting to a Cast Iron Septic Line

1. Cut the cast iron pipe where the connection is to be formed with a chain-style cast iron pipe cutter before continuing. To connect cast iron pipe to PVC pipe, use a rubber T-boot manufactured specifically for this purpose. To secure the boot to the cast iron pipe, use the hose clamps that were provided. Insert the PVC clean-out pipe into the “T” end of the boot and secure it with the hose that came with the vehicle.

Finishing Up

1. The opposite end of the PVC clean-out pipe should have a threaded pipe plug glued to it. Access to the septic line will be made possible by this detachable stopper, which will also prevent septic gases from going through the septic clean-out pipe. Replace the drywall with a cover that has been particularly designed to conceal the cut drywall while yet allowing for simple access in the future. Typically, they may be found at most home improvement stores, mainly around the HVAC or plumbing supplies. If the clean-out was installed in the yard, the pipe should be buried. Either totally cover it with earth or use a utility lawn box made specifically to conceal hidden pipes and electrical connections
2. Or

Tips for Installing Accessible Clean-Outs

Receive articles, news, and videos about Systems/ATUs sent directly to your email! Now is the time to sign up. Systems/ATUs+ Receive Notifications A thorough cleaning is necessary for all systems. The installation of a clean-out at an exterior wall of a residence or company is recommended in case the system ever has to be jetted or cleaned. The clean-out allows all of this work to be completed outside, ensuring that any mess is contained to the outside. There is the risk that the clean-out will be disguised within the house, as well as the danger of a significant leak.

A clean-out that is both directions Clean-outs should be easily accessible from the surface and, where necessary, should be housed in a protective enclosure such as a valve box.

The clean-out at the exterior wall may be located either within or outside the building, and it should be manufactured with a complete “Y” branch fitting that extends at least 2 inches above grade or finished floor, unless when a flush cover is required in high-traffic sections of the structure.

It is recommended, and in certain cases, mandatory, that the distance between clean-outs in horizontal pipework does not exceed 100 feet in straight lines in straight runs.

Unless put beneath an authorized cover plate or flush with the completed floor, each clean-out in a residence shall be at least 2 inches above grade, easily accessible, and not covered with cement, plaster, or any other permanent finish material, according to building codes.

Clean-outs in soil treatment systems

Get articles, stories, and videos about Systems/ATUs delivered directly to your email. Make your registration right now. Systems/ATUs+ Receive Notifications. Every system requires a thorough cleaning. If the system ever has to be jetted or cleaned, it is a good idea to install a clean-out at the outer wall of the home or company. Everything can be done outside thanks to the clean-out, which means that any mess is kept outside. There is a likelihood that the clean-out will be buried within the property, as well as the danger of a significant spill occurring within the residence.

• Clean-out in both directions Whenever possible, clean-outs should be accessible from the surface and kept protected by an enclosure, such as a valve box.
• Unless a flush cover is required in high traffic areas, the clean-out at the exterior wall can be located either inside or outside the building.
• Ideally, the clean-outs should be the same nominal size as the pipes they serve: up to 4 inches in diameter for smaller pipes, and no less than 4 inches for larger ones.
• The riser pipe on the clean-out shall be manufactured to standard pipe sizes, comply in thickness to that needed for pipes and fittings made of the same material, and extend not less than 1/4 inch above the hub of the clean-out valve.

The height of each clean-out in a residence shall be at least 2 inches above grade, easily accessible, and not covered with cement, plaster, or other permanent finish material unless it is put beneath an authorized cover plate or flush with the finished floor.

• Threaded detachable caps or plugs should be installed on the ends of the laterals to enable for cleaning of the laterals and to monitor lateral pressure. To be big enough to enable for the removal of caps or plugs with hands, tools, or other objects
• It must be accessible from the ground level

In pressurized laterals, clean-outs are installed at the distal end to allow for the flushing of the system prior to starting, the monitoring of the operating pressure, and the regular flushing away of particles. Sweep clean-outs at 90 degrees The clean-out pipe layout varies, but the most simple and convenient clean-out consists of a 90-degree turn up in the pipe. It is possible to employ two 45-degree elbows or one sweep 90-degree elbow. The usage of these allows the service provider to clean with a pressure washer or bottlebrush since the gradual turn allows for the simple insertion of the pressure line into the pressure line fitting.

1. Ball valves can also be fitted at the distal end of the lateral in a vertical position as an alternative to the above.
2. It is necessary to have a hole about halfway up the elbow to ensure that air may re-enter the pipe once the pump has been turned off.
3. It is advised that rock be placed in the box to plug the perforation in order to prevent effluent from spraying freely into the container.
4. In colder locations, it is also advisable to include insulation on the lid of this box.
5. Make certain that the access is completely stabilized in order to prevent movement during backfill activities and after the installation is complete.
6. a little about the author: Sara Heger, Ph.D., is an engineer, researcher, and lecturer in the Onsite Sewage Treatment Program at the University of Minnesota’s Water Resources Center.
7. She has given presentations at several local and national training events on topics such as the design, installation, and administration of septic systems, as well as research in the related field.
8. Send an email to [email protected] if you have any concerns concerning septic system care and operation.

Sewer Clean Out 101: Installation, Cost, and Where It Is Located

Sewer cleanouts are not something you hear about every day. In reality, the majority of homeowners are completely unaware of what a sewer cleanout is, what it accomplishes, or where it is situated. Only when anything goes wrong with the pipes or when blockages suddenly become an issue do they become interesting discussion subjects.

Being familiar with sewage cleanouts may be quite beneficial when performing house maintenance and repair tasks. So it’s ideal if you’re prepared before you go down that road. Here’s all you need to know about sewage cleanouts in one convenient location.

What is a sewer cleanout?

In its most basic form, a sewage cleanout is a capped pipe that connects to the primary sewer line. It serves as a dispersion unit for any accumulated water that has accumulated in the pipes of your home. Whenever there is a clogging issue, homeowners must access the sewer cleanout in order to declog the stock water line. If you are not familiar with hydro jetting tools, it is better to leave it to the professionals. The act of opening your sewage cleanout prevents wastewater from seeping onto the floor or into the gutter, posing a danger to you and your family.

Cleanouts are often formed of PVC or cast iron, and they may be distinguished by the cap, which can be made of brass, iron, plastic, or a combination of these materials.

What does a sewer cleanout look like?

Sewer cleanouts, as previously said, are pipes that have caps installed on them. Cleanouts protrude from the ground in contrast to the pipes that run underground along your property line, and they may be distinguished by their caps. They are frequently available in white, brown, or orange hues.

How to find a sewer cleanout

Finding the sewer cleanout can be a difficult chore, especially if you are not familiar with the area where the search begins. It is important to note that older homes may have cleanouts hidden within the structure, whereas new model homes may have cleanouts located outdoors. Additionally, there may be more than one cleanout along your property line, and you must discover each and every one of them. The following are the measures to take in order to locate your sewer cleanout.

1. Start searching by the sidewalk

Each and every one of the pipes in your home is connected to a lateral sewer line. When you’re walking along the curb, check for the stamped letter ‘S’ in one of those bricks, or just look around for it anyplace along the side of the sidewalk. To go back to your house, take a straight line back to where you started and you’ll discover your sewer cleanout valve.

2. Go to your home’s foundation

Placement of the cleanout near curbs or roadways has proven to be inconvenient over the course of time. Because of this, if you have a functioning septic tank in your home, sewage cleanouts are more likely to be located a few feet from the base of the building. If it is not discovered there, it will very certainly be discovered somewhere between the curb and the septic tank.

3. Indoor cleanouts

As previously stated, vintage model homes typically feature cleanouts in the basement or attic. They are often available in a T or Y configuration, with just one side of the pipes being capped. Inside, cleanouts are often located in the attic, the basement, and vent pipes, among other places. They can also be discovered protruding from the walls of bathrooms.

How to find a buried sewer cleanout

Cleanouts that are buried are more difficult to locate than cleanouts that are protruding from the ground.

The following are the several methods for locating a hidden sewer cleanout.

1. Get the help of a metal detector

To prevent overgrowth from occurring in the future, plumbers are trained to leave a steel bar next to the pipe. Thus, employing a metal detector to identify the hidden cleanout will be the quickest and most efficient method of finding it.

2. Looking for the sign

The location of a hidden cleanout may be determined once again by carefully scrutinizing the marks on the curb and the surrounding area. Following a straight route back to your house, look for a sign with the letter S to indicate where you are. There is a cleanout that has been buried there.

3. Check the blueprint

The arrangement of the pipeline is almost certainly included in the home’s plan. The location of the septic tank or lateral line will be shown by a dotted line somewhere on the map. If you can track down these two individuals, the cleanup is not far away. It is possible that you may look first for the plumbing symbols that are utilized so that you can simply identify the cleanout from the blueprints.

4. City development plans

If the blueprint examination fails and you are still unable to locate where the cleanout has been buried, you may always consult the city’s development plans. You can provide them with the very minimum of information on the location of your house sewage line. In order to help you locate the hidden sewer cleanout, they will measure several angles from the main sewage line.

Benefits of a sewer cleanout

Although having a sewage cleanout is not required by construction rules in the majority of circumstances, having one has several advantages. If you are seeking for reasons to have a sewage cleanout installed in your property line, the following are some of the advantages you may be able to reap from doing so.

Cheap maintenance

Regular plumbing monitoring can be reduced or eliminated when a sewer cleanout is installed since pipe blockage is expected to be minor. You will also save money since you will no longer have to pay plumbers to clean your sewage lines or the pipes themselves because you will already have a direct route to your lateral sewer line installed.

Landscape preservation

Due to the fact that your lateral sewer is essentially underground, it is assumed that your landscape will be dug up in the event of a serious obstruction. This might be avoided with the use of sewer cleanouts, since plumbers can now readily check and correct clogs through the cleanouts, thanks to the advancement of technology.

Prevents backflow

Many homeowners are unaware that sewage cleanouts may also function as drains. It is possible to drain surplus water from pipes when the cleanout cap is removed. This stops water from backing up on the floor or from backing up in your home’s lateral sewer when the main sewer (city/tower lateral sewer) is back flowing.

Increase home value

If you ever decide to place your house on the market, you should be aware that having a cleanup might be beneficial to your situation.

Potential buyers will always want a drain inspection, and having one performed already provides the buyer with some relief because the plumbing has already been installed. It also gives them the assurance that they will not be subjected to any major plumbing repairs anytime soon.

How to install a sewer cleanout

Installing a sewer cleanout requires two steps: first, do your research, and second, contact a reputable plumbing company to complete the installation for you. In order to conduct research, it is necessary to communicate with the officials who issue building permits, especially given the fact that sewer cleanouts are not a universal requirement for all homes. In most cases, municipalities offer a comprehensive program or grant for sewer cleanout installation, and it would be beneficial if you could take advantage of one of these opportunities.

• The blueprint for the house will be examined, and the layout of the pipelines will be examined.
• The excavation and digging up of your underground pipes will be the responsibility of the plumbers.
• Following the installation of the cleanout, the cap is placed in a container so that the pipe body can be buried easily while the cleanout protrudes perfectly from the cap.
• Here are some of the most common types of sewer cleanouts that you might want to look into.

Single cleanout

Although it does not enable complete access to the municipal lateral since it is 45 degrees too short, it does provide a direct path from your home’s pipe system to the municipal lateral line.

Double cleanout

This form of cleanout is now often used in modern plumbing. A U shape is formed by two pipe shafts that link to the municipal lateral and the other that connects to your home’s lateral sewer or septic tank (if you have one).

Test tee cleanout

It functions in the same way as a double cleanout, but its T-shape, which protrudes to a 90-degree angle, makes it more difficult to unclog the drain pipes.

Cost to install sewer cleanout

It is estimated that the cost of building a sewage cleanout will range from $600-800 dollars. On the other hand, in some circumstances when deeper excavation and more thorough fitting are required (for example, because of the topography or geography of a property or because of the configuration of the pipes), the cost might exceed $2000. Additional expenditures would be incurred as a result of the type of cleanout to be installed as well as the material used in the cleanout (PVC, iron, etc.).

• It is possible that high-end materials for installation will cost at least $500-800.
• Typically, this will cost between $100 and $250.
• If this occurs, the anticipated cost would increase by a factor of two.
• The cost of cleaning sewage cleanouts is from $350-600, depending on the method chosen.
• Another item to consider is the repair of damaged cleanouts.
• The fact that it may be advantageous to install more than one cleanout, particularly in bigger homes, has been addressed previously.

Taking into consideration the advantages of having cleanouts may help you make a more informed decision, but the final decision is ultimately yours to make.

Conclusion

Sewer cleanouts, also known as drain cleanouts, are an important element of the plumbing structure of a home, despite the fact that they are not required by building rules in most cases. Cleanouts provide a variety of advantages, including but not limited to unclogging pipes to prevent backflows and leaks. Cleaning out cleanouts has long-term benefits in terms of protecting the home’s landscape, needing less plumbing maintenance, facilitating inspection, and increasing the home’s real estate value, to name a few advantages.

Sewer Clean Out for Residential Homes 101

a wooded trail / Photo courtesy of Fotolia Septic system failures can be prevented by utilizing a variety of fail-safes in contemporary plumbing. Your home is well-protected against sewage backups, with everything from drain traps to sump pumps and vent pipes. The sewage clean out is an extremely vital component of this system, and you should be aware of its existence. Despite its harmless look, having one or more clean outs in your home’s sewage line may have a significant impact on both the health of your sewer line and the health of your wallet.

What is a Sewer Clean Out?

In most cases, the sewer clean out is a capped pipe that is positioned on or near your property line and connects to the lateral sewage line. In plumbing, a lateral sewer line is a pipe that links the sewage lines in your house to either the municipal sewer system or your septic tank. Septic waste can back up into drains when the lateral becomes blocked, causing a nuisance as well as potential health risks for anyone who are exposed to it. Maintaining your sewer pipes and draining water in the event of a backup are two important benefits of having a clean out.

How to Find the Sewer Clean Out

The sewer clean out is a tiny, capped conduit that protrudes from the ground surface. Unfortunately, finding it is not always straightforward. The fact that many homes have several clean outs and, in some rare circumstances, the clean out is actually placed within the house just adds to the complexity of the situation. The methods that follow should assist you in finding the clean out more quickly.

1. The Sidewalk Should Be Checked– In many localities, the location where your lateral joins the municipal sewer line is indicated on the sidewalk. Along the curb and sidewalk, look for a letter ‘S’ that has been stamped or painted. If you come across this marker, you may easily visualize a straight line from the mark to your house, where the lateral may be located if you look closely. In certain situations, you may even be fortunate enough to come upon a clean out in the neighborhood of where you are looking. Search Near Your Foundation– In many circumstances, locating the sewer clean out near the road is impractical, or the home’s former owners elected to have more than one sewer clean out built. In these cases, you should search near your foundation. When you have a septic system in place, sewer clean outs are also typically positioned close to the home’s location. If you are more than three feet from the foundation, you will most likely find the cap anywhere between the road or septic tank and the point at which your home’s sewage line exits the foundation and enters the ground
2. Look for extra clean outs inside– Some homes, particularly older ones, may have clean outs that are either hidden within the structure or protrude from the exterior walls of the structure. Check the basements, crawl spaces, and attic for probable vent pipe sites along with the vent pipe. Most of the time, indoor sewer clean outs will look to be a junction with one side of the Y or T shaped intersection being capped. These are important for keeping your interior pipelines in good condition, even if they are not essential.

What if the Property Lacks a Sewer Clean Out?

It is possible that older properties may not have a sewer clean out. The latter is particularly true if one is not obligated to do so by municipal or state plumbing regulations. It is typically preferable to have one installed in such situations. Sometimes your home has a clean out that has just been covered up by dirt, which is another situation. If you suspect the house has a clean out but have been unable to identify it, you may want to conduct some light digging along the ground where you assume the clean out should be in order to locate it.

Benefits of a Sewer Clean Out

While having a sewage clean out is mandated by law in certain jurisdictions, if you have an older property or live in a state where they are optional, you may find yourself without one.

There are, however, various advantages to having a clean out installed on your home, including the following:

Lower Maintenance Costs

The clean out gives you direct access to the sewage lateral on your property’s property. This means that a plumbing professional may monitor the water flow from each individual faucet in your home to verify that there are no blockages or other pipe concerns during their monthly maintenance visits.

Cheaper and Easier Cleaning

When it comes to cleaning your sewage lines, a plumber would normally have to remove your toilet or perhaps climb onto the roof to do so. They will have easier access to the sewage lateral if they have a sewer clean out performed. Because of the time and effort savings, you will have a lower overall bill.

Protects Your Landscaping

If you have a big clog, one advantage that only becomes evident in an emergency situation is the fact that a sewer clean out can assist eliminate the need to dig up your yard in the case of a clog. The sewer lateral, in contrast to many of the pipes within your home, is totally underground and cannot be inspected for wear or damage without digging the area where it is located. The sewer clean out serves as an entry point for your lateral, allowing it to be more readily examined and maintained.

BackflowPrevention

It can also be used as an external drain if a large amount of blockage is encountered. Taking the clean out cap off will allow you to drain the extra water, which will save your property from flooding. When there is an issue with the municipal sewer that is forcing water back up into your lateral, this may also be beneficial.

How to Install a Sewer Clean Out

It is necessary to complete many steps in order to install a clean out. Depending on the circumstances, your local municipality may provide programs to assist with the cost of installation, particularly in situations where a sewer clean out was not previously required by code. Before you begin, make sure you check for any available programs or grants, as well as any necessary permissions or licenses. It is also recommended to get expert assistance if you do not have prior experience splicing or installing sections of pipe in order to prevent making costly blunders.

Choosing a Clean Out Type

The first and most important step before starting any work is to choose the sort of sewer clean out you will be using. There are three alternatives accessible at the present time: Double Clean Out– The double clean out is the most common type of clean out used in contemporary installations. It contains two shafts that link to the lateral pipe in a ‘U’ configuration, making it the most common type of clean out used in modern installations. The cap that is closest to your home allows for simple access to the city end of the lateral, but the cap that is closest to the street allows you to preserve the house end of the lateral (see illustration).

Despite its T design, the test tee clean out provides access to both ends of the lateral, but it can be difficult to use for clearing obstructions owing to a 90 degree angle at the intersection.

Excavation and Installation

A segment of pipe will need to be excavated in order to find your lateral line. This can be accomplished using either conventional hand tools or leased equipment, with caution to avoid damaging the lateral pipe. As soon as you have completely exposed the required area of the pipe, you should measure out the length of pipe that will be removed. The type of cutting equipment you’ll need will depend on the material that your lateral pipe is constructed of. Once the undesirable portion has been removed, you will be able to measure, cut, and install the new junction section in its place.

Most of the time, it’s advisable to put a container box around the top to keep it from being overgrown or buried too quickly.

Professional Cleaning Cost with a Sewer Clean Out

Even while cleaning your own lateral line may appear to be a cost-effective choice, there is always the possibility of causing damage to the pipes. It is more efficient and less expensive to hire a professional plumber to complete the work if that plumber has direct access to the sewer clean out.This is because they will require fewer tools and less labor than if they had to dig up your yard or snake the sewer line from an interior point in the home.HomeAdvisorgives a basic estimate range of $99 to 900, with an overall average of $288.

When it comes to costs, they point out that distance traveled matters, with it being less expensive to snake a lateral from an external clean out than it is to snake a lateral from an access point inside the home.

Some plumbing businesses may quote you a fixed charge but then urge you to tack on extra services in order to raise the total cost of the job.

COMMON PROBLEMS — JT’s SEPTIC

You should examine the sewer cleanout on the exterior of the home if you are hearing gurgling and all of the house fixtures are clogged. This is often a black 3-4 in color “inch ABS pipe with a threaded cap is available. Remove the cap (WARNING: BE CAREFUL! (WARNING: IT MAY CONTAIN SOME PRESSURE!) : Assuming the sewage line is completely dry, you will have a clog inside the home plumbing, directly in front of the cleanout valve. Make a phone call to a plumber and have them rooter the line. Sewer line cameras are available from several rooter/plumbing businesses.

You have two options at this point: call your preferred septic provider or pull up the tank lids yourself and check the water level and solids content in the tank yourself.

Most tanks erected after January 2001 include a filter that has to be cleaned at least once a year (we clean filters—please call us).

We’ll even notify you once a year when it’s time to clean your filters!).

You should contact your favorite plumber if only one or two fixtures are clogged (for example, one toilet or a specific sink or shower). It’s likely that you have a blockage in your sewage system. In the event that your septic tank is backing up, we can assist you!

GURGLES

Whenever you flush the toilet, the water gurgles, the toilet takes an unusually long time to flush, or the water in the shower turns brownish after you have done the laundry, you are receiving a subtle indication that trouble is brewing. In order to determine when the tank was last pumped, look through your records and then contact your preferred septic provider for assistance.

ODORS

If you are experiencing unpleasant odors within your home, such as rotten eggs, it is likely that a trap or vent inside your home is not venting correctly. Call your plumber right away since these gases are harmful to both people and animals!

ODORS OUTSIDE IN THE YARD

At times, the smells emanating from the roof vents will seep into the yard due to meteorological conditions. Make use of a plumber to elevate the roof vents and/or to place a charcoal filter in the vents, as needed. It’s important to remember that your septic tank is vented via the roof.

SURFACING IN THE YARD

If you notice effluent appearing in your yard, contact your septic service provider immediately. If you see this, it indicates that your leach line has failed and you should get help right away.

HEAVY SOLIDS- OVERDUE FOR PUMPING

Contrary to common perception, you DO need to have your septic tank pumped on a regular basis. Pumping maintenance should be performed on a regular basis, otherwise your system will get overwhelmed with solid waste and eventually cause damage to your leach lines. DON’T MAKE THIS HAPPEN TO YOU! This is an extreme example of a tank that is overflowing. There is sewage flowing from the tank access holes and into the yard!

grease build up in sewer pipes

Fats and grease should never be flushed down the toilet or sink. They have the potential to harden the lines and cause failure; they have the potential to generate an excessive buildup of the floating scum layer in the septic tank; and they have the potential to go into the disposal regions and adjacent soils and completely block the system off. A shattered lid can pose a serious threat to both animals and children. It is conceivable that they will fall through the cracked or broken lids and will not be noticed until it is too late to save themselves.

crushed or settled pipe

This is the second most prevalent problem we notice in septic systems that are less than 10 years old. In addition to blocking flow, loose fill soil surrounding the tank is causing a backup into the house since it is pulling the pipe with it as it settles. We have even observed instances when contractors installing new systems do not correctly pack the fill earth below the pipe, resulting in pipe settlement on systems that have not been utilized or have only been used for a short length of time (see below for an example).

SEWER OUTLET PROGRESSION

When it comes to modern septic systems, this is the most typical issue we encounter. Take note of the fact that the unsupported outlet pipe is being driven down by settling dirt.

Watch as the water level in the tank rises, forcing the flow of water in the inflow sewage line to slow. This will eventually result in a clog in the inflow sewer line at some point. The solids flowing down from the house will not be able to enter the tank correctly because of the high water level.

examples of settled sewer pipes:

INSTALLATION OF A TANK AND/OR REPAIR OF SEWER PIPESTHE “POLY” PIPEIMAGES BELOW PROVIDE AN EXAMPLE OF WHAT PIPENOTTO USES WHEN INSTALLING A TANK AND/OR REPAIR OF SEWER PIPES However, despite the fact that this grade of sewer pipe is less expensive at the time of purchase, it might end up costing you a lot of money in the long run!

settled inlet sewer pipe on unused system:

Even if the septic system has not been utilized in some time, it is conceivable that problems will be discovered during the inspection process. Pipes might settle on unoccupied ground and in yards as a result of faulty installation and/or automobiles and/or ATVs running over the pipes without realizing they are there. It may be beneficial to all parties to have a skilled inspector take a look at the system and diagnose any concerns, even though the County does not require an examination on an underused system before transferring ownership.

Roots growing in and around the septic tank:

In addition to disrupting the system by clogging or destroying drainage and distribution lines, tree roots can also enter the tank, causing it to leak. Foul odors, poor drainage, and patches of vegetation in the leach field are just a few of the signs that you may have a root problem.

ERODED BAFFLES

Solids are kept in the septic tank and away from the disposal area with the use of concrete baffles. Using baffles to reduce agitation of wastewater entering the septic tank and prevent particles from escaping the tank and entering the drainfield, baffles can assist avoid drainfield damage and extend the life of the drainfield. If the baffles are broken, missing, or have never been placed, the drainfield’s life expectancy will be reduced significantly. Baffle repair normally entails the placement of a plastic tee at the end of the sewer pipes to prevent them from clogging.

orangeburg sewer pipes

Orangeburg pipe was made in Orangeburg, New York, from 1860 to 1970, and was utilized to plumb numerous septic and wastewater systems throughout Yavapai County during that time period. Orangeburg pipe is produced from rolled tar paper (wood pulp that has been sealed with hot pitch) and was considered a low-cost alternative to metal, particularly after World War II, because of its flexibility and durability. In fact, the pipe itself is so soft that professionals might cut it with a knife during the installation process!

Orangeburg, on the other hand, is known for degrading over time (it has a 50-year lifespan at the most) and deforming when subjected to pressure.

If the septic system is approved, Orangeburg will normally be stated on the permits as the material for the inlet and/or outflow pipe material, respectively.

How to Run a Septic Tank Line From Your House

A septic system is made up of two lengths of pipe that are connected together. Initially, it runs from the house, where the system services are located, to a tank, where the waste is separated and solids settle out. The second section runs from the tank to the drainage field, where fluids from the tank are dispersed into the earth underneath the tank.

The process of installing the first run of pipe is quite similar to that of installing a traditional sewage line. It is necessary to maintain a downhill slope to the storage tank.

Locating the Septic Tank

The tank serves as the nerve center of the septic system. It is required to be situated between the residence and the drainage field. Each and every septic installation must begin with a soil test, and depending on the results, soil conditions may necessitate the placement of the tank in a less-than-ideal site for digging sewer lines. Also required are minimum setback distances from property borders, functioning wells, surface water and other obstructions to provide a safe working environment.

Tank Depth

A standard septic tank has a 4-inch intake at the top, which is positioned towards the bottom. Ideally, a 1/4-inch-per-foot slope toward the pipe from the house should be maintained by the pipe connecting to it. To put it another way, for every 10 feet of distance between a tank and a home, the inlet must be 2 1/2 inches lower than where the pipe departs the house at its lowest point. The pipe usually exits at ground level, although it may need to pass beneath a foundation footing or concrete pad in rare cases.

Digging the Trench

The trench for the septic pipe should be dug before the hole for the tank since you will need a backhoe to complete the work and the tank will get in your way if it is already in the ground. To allow rainfall to drain properly, the pipe should be placed on a 2- or 3-inch bed of drain rock, so remember to account for this extra depth when digging. It is normal to use a four-inch pipe, and it should be installed far enough down to link with the main soil stack, which is a three-inch pipe that runs vertically past the main bathroom and through the roof of the home.

Precautions

Local building and health agencies will demand permits for a septic tank installation. You will also be required to submit a design plan before the permits will be provided, so prepare ahead of time. This layout should be developed in collaboration with a local builder who is familiar with the unique characteristics of the topography in your neighborhood. Stay away from planting trees or plants near the tank, drainage field, or any of the pipe systems. They will be drawn to the pipes in their hunt for nutrition, and their roots will be able to successfully block them.

Removal may be both expensive and time-consuming.

Everything You Need to Know About How to Clear a Main Sewer Line Clog

In the United States, a whopping 230 million people rely on municipal sewer pipes. Wastewater collection and conveyance lines are those that collect and transport wastewater to treatment facilities. However, before wastewater can reach these sewer lines, it must first pass via the main sewage line of the residence. Because of this, if there is a blockage in this line, wastewater will not be able to reach the public sewer system. An obstruction in your main sewer line, on the other hand, can cause sewage to back up into your home and create flooding.

To your advantage, you may be able to do the procedures necessary to unclog a main sewage line without the assistance of a professional. This will be dependent on a number of factors, such as the presence of a clean-out fitting. Please continue reading for a more in-depth discussion of this topic.

A Sneak Peek Into Your Home’s Plumbing Network

The drain line and the P-trap are connected to all of the plumbing items in your home, including sinks and toilets. A P-trap is a pipe that, well, looks like the letter “P,” and it is used to collect and store part of the water that has accumulated. As a result, sewage gases cannot rise and into your home because of the presence of this water. The P-traps are connected to a branch drain line at this point. It is common for branch drain lines to be located inside walls, beneath floors, or behind ceiling panels.

• A soil stack is a sort of plumbing pipe that is buried beneath the soil outside of the residence and is connected to the main sewer line.
• The soil stacks are then connected to what is now known as the main sewage line.
• Here’s where all of your plumbing waste — both solid and liquid — comes together in one place: the main drainage pipe.
• As previously stated, the majority of American households rely on municipal sewer systems.
• In any case, homeowners are liable for any and all plumbing connections made outside of the municipal water line and sewer system.
• The maintenance of a private septic tank or sewage unit is also included in your responsibilities.

What Happens When a Main Sewer Line Clog Develops?

In your house, a clogged main sewage line will have an impact on all other drains since it is the meeting place for all of the drain lines. Consequently, repeated obstructions in several of your drains and toilets are quite likely to occur throughout your stay. It’s possible that flushed toilet water will back up and out of your tub, shower, or floor drains as a result of this.

Clogged Main or Branch Drain?

If you’re dealing with a single blocked sink drain, you should initially attempt using a plunger or a snake to clear it out. If this is your first encounter with a toilet that is sluggish to flush, you can follow the same procedure. These sporadic occurrences are frequently the result of a single drain line obstruction. Clogs that occur at the same time, on the other hand, frequently suggest the necessity for a major sewer line clean-out. This is especially true if you have never had your drains cleaned by a professional before.

It’s also conceivable that tree roots have grown into the main sewer lines and caused them to collapse.

Roots choking or piercing the pipes itself may be responsible for the obstruction in this instance. The easiest approach to prove this is through the use of high-quality sewer cameras designed specifically for the business.

Steps On How to Clear a Main Sewer Line Clog

11 percent of South Carolina’s population has moved into and resided in the same residence since the early 1990s, according to census data. That implies that over 212,000 of the homes now occupied in South Carolina have remained in the same family for at least two decades. You will almost certainly not have a clean-out fitting if you reside in one of these historic homes that has never been updated. Whether or not you have this fitting determines whether or not you will be able to clean the main sewer line on your own.

1. Locate the Clean-Out Fitting

However, the very first step is to identify where in your home’s plumbing system the clean-out fitting is located. A clean-out fitting is a pipe with a width of 3, 4, or 6 inches that is used to clear out a drain. In most cases, a portion of it should be visible above ground level, either on the lowest floor of a house or on level ground outside. It is possible to unscrew the plug that is visible on the fitting’s viewable area with a wrench.

2. Slowly Loosen the Cover

If you do happen to come across this fitting, use a pipe wrench to loosen the cap on it first. Don’t open it all the way since doing so may result in any garbage that has accumulated blasting out of the orifice. As soon as you’ve released the pipe’s cap, take a step back from it.

3. Let the Buildup Spill Out

Keep a safe distance between yourself and the fitting, but make sure you can still reach the cover to fully unlock it. Before removing the cap, be sure you have a secure footing. All of the trash generated as a result of the main sewage line obstruction should be able to stream out of the fitting’s orifice. Allow the accumulation all of the time it need to drain away until there is no more water coming out of the drain.

4. Get Your Plumbing Snake In

Ensure that the plumbing snake or auger is properly inserted into the clean-out fitting’s aperture. Make careful to follow the tool’s directions to the letter in order to remove as much of the blockage as you possibly can. It’s possible that you’ll have to repeat this process numerous times if you keep striking dirt within the pipe.

5. Hose Down the Snake and the Fitting

First, while the auger is still within the drain, give it a good rinsing with water before you begin to wind it back. This will aid in the disintegration of any remaining debris or minor blockages. Additionally, it will remove any trash that has clung to your plumbing snake throughout the cleaning process. After that, remove the snake from the pipe and replace the fitting’s cover with a new one. From here, you may check to see if your drains and toilets are functioning properly once again.

Still Not Working or Can’t Find Your Clean-Out Fitting?

In this case, the clean-out fitting is the focal point of the procedure for clearing a major sewer line clog, as you can see. If you are able to discover it, that is fantastic; simply follow the instructions outlined above. But if you can’t locate it or if your drains are still slow after cleaning it, you may have a more serious problem with your plumbing.

If this is the case, we at Plumb Time will be more than delighted to examine and clean your drains at no additional charge. Please get in contact with us right away so that we can clean out all of the blockages from your South Carolina residence!

Septic System Services — R.A. WEBBER & SONS, INC

Septic Systems are a type of sewage disposal system. Service for Septic Systems available 24 hours a day, seven days a week We provide septic service on a 24/7 basis throughout the year. Please contact us at 207.725.7727 to discuss your requirements.

We offer septic system installation and cleaning.

Septic system installation and drain field services performed by certified professionals Cleaning of septic tanks Inspections of septic systems Lift stations are maintained. Camera on a line Service for high-pressure jetting in the industrial sector (for opening frozen septic drain lines)

When installing a new septic system…

Obtaining a soil design from an experienced soil designer/engineer will be the first step in the process when you engage us to design and construct your new septic system. We can assist you in locating and working with a designer. Following that, one of our professionals will walk through your home and generate an estimate for you. Prices vary based on the design and any site preparation that may be required.

How often should my septic tank be pumped?

We recommend that you get your septic tank pumped/cleaned every 3-4 years, depending on the size of your family and the amount of water you use each day. A standard tank has a capacity of 1000 gallons and is meant to accommodate three to four people in three bedrooms. If there are fewer people in your house or if you only use your home seasonally, you may be able to go longer than 4 years between pump replacements; nevertheless, we do not advocate going more than 6 years between pumps. Please contact us to discuss your particular circumstance.

How does my septic system work?

All waste (from your sink, washer, toilet, and tub) drains through a pipe that runs from your house to a tank on the property. Paper and unbroken down solids create the top layer, grey water makes up the middle layer, and broken-down solids collect making the bottom layer. Grey water leaches out from an outlet baffle, which then goes to your distribution box, where it is evenly dispersed throughout your leach field.

Can I drive on my tank or leach field?

It is strongly advised that you do not drive, park, or construct anything on top of the tank or leach field. The septic tank and leach field are incapable of supporting weights in excess of several hundred pounds.

What can I flush down my toilet?

Normal human waste, toilet paper, and grey water are the only items that should be disposed of in your system, according to the manufacturer. The flushing of some feminine products/applicators, baby wipes, paper towels, and cleaning wipes is not suggested, despite what the product’s packaging may state.

What can I put in my septic tank to insure bacteria growth?

No recommendations have been made by us or the government at this time. Bacteria should be produced by your system on its own.

What should I be prepared for in winter months?

Winter in Maine may bring about a range of issues that can be difficult to identify, rectify, and repair, especially when the weather is cold. Snow protects your septic system by acting as an insulator. When there is minimal snow and temperatures are freezing, issues might develop because the frost can penetrate quite deeply into the ground.

It is possible that lines, the tank, or your leach field can freeze, or that your pump will malfunction. If any portion of your system freezes, it will have to thaw on its own; however, we may assist the situation by pumping the tank on a regular basis (often once a month) until it thaws.

What can be done if my drain lines are clogged?

Our industrial high-pressure jetting service employs high-pressure water to help in the clearance of blocked sewage systems and drain lines in industrial and commercial settings. Drain pipes that have been clogged due to root incursion or ice accumulation can be removed by employing our jetting service. If root incursion is the source of the problem, we propose that the tree be removed. Septic systems can fail for a variety of reasons, including faulty design or construction, overloading, and insufficient maintenance.

What can I do to properly care for my septic system?

• Ensure that your tank’s baffles and tees are in good operating order and that there is no sludge accumulation
• Ensure that you clean your tank on a regular basis and that you retain a written record of your cleanings. Food waste should either be composted or thrown away. Keep a grease can on ready for emergencies. Mark the location of your septic system so that you can keep it safe from cars and encroaching trees. Installing water-saving gadgets can help you save money on your water bill. Cleaning agents that are non-toxic should be used.

• If your septic system is showing indications of breakdown, please contact us.

• Do not dispose of rubbish using a garbage disposal. Pouring automobile oil, cooking oil, or grease down the drain is not recommended. Driving across the septic system and leach field is not permitted. Planting plants or trees over the leach field is prohibited. Do not use phosphorus-containing detergents. Make sure you don’t spill any paint or paint thinner down the sink drain. Use of drain or septic system cleansers is not recommended. Contact us immediately if you see any of the following indicators of failure in your septic system:

How do I know if my septic system may be failing?

• Sewage stench in the vicinity of a septic tank or leach field The presence of standing water over the tank or leach field
• The slow operation of drains and toilets. In the winter, a patch of brilliant green grass over the leach field, or a lush green growth over spongy ground in the summer, when the other grass is sluggish to germinate and develop

Can I request a grease trap be cleaned?

Grease traps are cleaned by us. This service is mostly for commercial premises, although it may also be used for most modest interior jobs in private residences.

How to Tie Into an Existing Septic Tank

Adding more input lines to your current septic tank is a viable option if your tank is working properly and is much below its maximum capacity for consumption. If you want to do this, you will need to integrate the new addition into the old system without causing any disruptions or changes to the existing system. The difficulty of this work will be greatly influenced by the location of the new addition as well as the technique of installation employed for your existing systems.

Step 1

Determine the location of the drain pipe that runs from the present residence to the septic tank. This may be accomplished by locating the main drain line beneath your property and recording the locations where it passes beneath or through the foundation. Move along this line outside the house until you are roughly eight feet away from the house, then turn around. Continue digging until you reach the drain line. There should be no more than 24 inches in depth below the surface of the ground for the line, which should be a 4-inch pipe.

Step 2

You should dig until you have exposed roughly three feet of the drainpipe once you have found it and marked it with chalk. In addition, you will need to dig down a little bit to provide access all the way around the pipeline. To get to the start point of the new field line, dig a ditch from this point onward. This ditch should be constructed in a straight line and at a small gradient from the current drain to the starting point of the new drain system. Remove any big boulders or roots that may have accumulated in this ditch.

Step 3

PVC pipe sections of four inches in diameter should be laid from the new drain point to the old drain line. Before applying PVC cement, make sure that all pipe ends and fittings have been cleaned using PVC pipe cleaner. Connect the drain line to the new drain point, ensuring sure that all of the fittings are securely fastened to the pipe.

Once you have verified that there are no appliances running in the house, use the hacksaw to cut through the current drain line. Using a sharp knife, make two incisions roughly six inches apart. Clean both ends of the aperture thoroughly, removing any burrs or tiny bits of pipe that may have formed.

Step 4

Insert the tee fitting into the hole that you just made in the wall with your fingers. Because the drainpipe and fitting will be a very tight fit, you will need to flex the drainpipe and wedge the fitting into position. Before installing the fitting, thoroughly clean the fitting and pipe ends. You will need to move rapidly once the cement has been applied in order to get the fitting in place since the cement will harden very quickly. Make the necessary adjustments to the fitting so that the new intake is directly in line with the new pipe.

Check that all of the fittings are in place before back-filling all of the ditches.