- Potable water can be stored in a bruiser style tank. You can either glue PVC pipe/fittings into the inlet and outlet or plug them with a PVC cap and install your own fittings. Septic adapters cannot be removed; there will be no way to seal the tank. Tees may be cut off if you choose to do so. Norwesco does not offer a gasket for plumbing water into or out of the tank other than a 4” gasket kit, part number 61765. Bulkhead fittings may also be used.
Where does pipe enter septic tank?
Inlet & Outlet Pipes: Wastewater from your home enters the septic tank through the inlet pipe. After the solids settle out, effluent leaves the septic tank through the outlet pipe and flows to the drain field. The outlet pipe should be approximately 3 inches below the inlet pipe.
How do you seal a septic outlet pipe?
The tar sealant can be used to fill the void between the concrete and pipe. Use a trowel to press the sealant into the void. If the rubber gasket is molded into the tank for the pipe, tighten it up.
What size pipe goes into septic tank?
Four-inch pipe is standard, and it should extend far enough under the house to connect with the main soil stack, which is a 3-inch pipe that extends vertically past the main bathroom and through the roof.
Why the inlet pipe in the septic tank is higher than the outlet pipe?
Level the septic tank: The septic tank inlet tee is designed to be higher than the septic tank outlet tee. This helps assure that incoming sewage clears the baffle and enters the tank correctly, while outgoing effluent does not carry along floating solids, scum, or grease (which would clog the drainfield).
How deep should septic pipe be buried?
On average, trenches should be around 12-24 inches-deep, and wide enough to house your pipe comfortably before filling it in with soil and sod.
What kind of pipe goes from house to septic?
The septic tank should be positioned at least 50 feet from the house proper. ABS or PVC plastic or cast iron pipe can be used to connect the tank to the house drainage system. [We do not recommend using clay pipe nor “orangeburg” pipe.]
What are the signs that your septic tank is full?
Here are some of the most common warning signs that you have a full septic tank:
- Your Drains Are Taking Forever.
- Standing Water Over Your Septic Tank.
- Bad Smells Coming From Your Yard.
- You Hear Gurgling Water.
- You Have A Sewage Backup.
- How often should you empty your septic tank?
How do you seal PVC pipe?
To keep these unwelcome visitors out of your home, seal around all pipes with QUIKRETE® Hydraulic Water-Stop Cement or QUIKRETE® Quick-Setting Cement. They are specially formulated so they can be sculpted to fit securely around pipes for and effective, watertight seal.
How does a septic tank outlet baffle work?
Septic baffles are located at the junctions where pipes enter and exit the tank. The one at the inlet pipe is called the inlet baffle, and the one at the outlet is called the outlet baffle. It’s designed to help wastewater flow smoothly into the tank without disturbing the scum layer.
What is a septic inlet baffle?
The inlet baffle directs the flow of wastewater into your septic tank, and prevents the scum layer in the tank from being disturbed. It also can help prevent solids from backing up toward the house if you should experience a septic system backup.
How does a plastic septic tank work?
Septic tanks work by allowing waste to separate into three layers: solids, effluent and scum (see illustration above). The solids settle to the bottom, where microorganisms decompose them. The middle layer of effluent exits the tank and travels through underground perforated pipes into the drainage field.
Can you drill into a septic tank?
You can’t. You have to connect to the pipe from the house. Most septic tanks have a 6″ baffle pipe that the house sewer feeds into. Making a second inlet hole anywhere in the tank would bypass that baffle and create a lot of problems with the tank in the future.
7 Steps to a New Plastic Septic System
Plastic septic tanks are only one important component of a home’s wastewater management system. There are several other components as well. When you are preparing for your plastic septic tank installation, it is critical to recognize and remember that there are several critical steps to take when installing a new septic system, and if you do not complete each of them carefully, you may be faced with some very expensive consequences down the road.
Step 1: Design Your System
The first step is to take your time and properly design your complete system. There is some critical information that you will need to investigate and get in order to complete this task. You will require a site survey to assist you in determining the borders of your land so that your septic system can be installed in accordance with local restrictions about how near to your neighbor’s property wastewater may be discharged underground. The following are the most crucial pieces of information to look for during the site survey:
- In addition to the quantity of space available, the land’s topography should be considered as well as the purpose and estimated usage of water based on the size of your home, so you know how much water your septic system will have to treat on a regular basis the position of any wells on your property or on the properties of your neighbors
The quantity of space available; the geography of the property; the purpose and expected usage of water depending on the size of your home, so that you know how much water the septic system will have to treat on a regular basis; and the cost of the system. information about any wells on your property or the properties of your neighbors
- The kind of soil and the composition of the soil (sand, clay, rock, etc.)
- Layering (in which different soil types are found at different depths)
- The capacity of the earth to drain and filter effluent
Once you have completed these tests, you will have the information necessary to build a septic system that is appropriate for your home.
Step 2: Seek Permits
The second stage in the installation process is to submit your plans and applications to your local government in order to obtain the permissions and approvals that are necessary. In order to gain clearance for these designs, you must ensure that they are in compliance with all applicable plumbing and construction requirements. It is possible that you may be punished and compelled to remove your equipment if you do not obtain these critical permissions.
Step 3: Gather Equipment
Bring together all of the items that will be needed for your plastic septic tank installation. The following is a list of the equipment and parts that you will require:
- Backhoe – this is by far the most effective method of digging the holes that will be required to install your septic system in the earth. In order to conduct some more accurate digging in the holes you dig with your backhoe, you’ll need a shovel. In order to assure exact measurements for digging, a laser transit surveying equipment is used. A grade pole is a surveying equipment that is used to accurately measure the depth of a hole while digging. (1) – 4′′ Sch. 40 PVC pipe – this is the input pipe from your house, and it may also require fittings
- And (2) – 4′′ Sch. 40 PVC pipe – this is the output pipe from your home, and it may also require fittings
- (1) – 4′′ perforated pipe in accordance with ASTM D2729 – output pipe for dispersing effluent into draining field
- (1) – 4′′ASTM D3034 pipe with suitable fittings
- (2) – 4′′ASTM D3034 pipe with appropriate fittings
- – 4′′ Sch. 40 vent caps and test caps – to disperse gas buildup resulting from the degradation of waste in the septic tank
- – 4′′ Sch. 40 test caps – to ensure that the tank is functioning properly. To join PVC pipes together, PVC primer and PVC adhesive are used. Cutting PVC pipe to the required length requires the use of a manual hand saw or an electric hand saw. The usage of a hammer drill and bits is required if you need to drill through the wall of your house in order to install the septic system. If you drill a hole through a PVC pipe, you may use hydraulic cement to seal the gap between the pipe and the wall of your home. The stone should be 1 12 inches in thickness and should be put below your septic system to guarantee proper drainage. Small and big tape measures – you will need at least 100 feet of tape, therefore it may be beneficial to have both a small and a large tape measure on hand
- Septic fabric — You will need roughly 3 feet of fabric cut from a roll. Plastic septic tank and risers – check with your local rules to ensure that plastic septic tanks are permitted. Silicone caulk is used to seal the risers of the stairwell. If a septic filter is necessary, it should be installed. Check out the plumbing codes in your area. Distribution box made of plastic – this is utilized when running a system with many laterals to the draining field.
Step 4: Install Intake Pipe
Choose one of the sides of your home or structure from which you want the septic tank to take in waste water for treatment. It is necessary to dig down at least 2 feet and either make a hole in the wall or dig further into the footing of the home or structure at that location. If you have a gravity-fed system, you should design the flow such that it flows downhill, rather than uphill, because gravity-fed systems do not require mechanical techniques to transport waste from a tank to a drain field.
- Install the 4 inch Sch.
- It has to be level at the wall and slope down about 1/8 inch per foot toward the plastic septic tank, according to the manufacturer’s specifications.
- In the event that you swap pipes, make certain that you utilize the proper adaptor while connecting it to the plastic septic tank.
- If you decide to drill a hole in the wall, you must use hydraulic cement to seal the area around the hole, both on the inside of the building and on the outside as well as the inside.
If the pitch is excessively steep, the wastewater will flow too quickly through the system, causing the particles to become caught in the pipe. It is also possible that you will have insufficient space left to adequately drain the effluent into the draining field.
Step 5: Install Plastic Septic Tank
Locate the side of your home or structure from which you want the septic tank to accept wastewater and mark the location. It is necessary to dig down at least 2 feet and either cut a hole in the wall or dig further into the footing of the home or structure at that location. Flow should be directed downward if you have a gravity-fed system since gravity-fed systems do not rely on mechanical techniques to transport waste from the tank to the drain field. It is critical to understand that the downhill slope must be maintained for a significant distance because the building or home plumbing can transport wastewater into the plastic septic tank, but it will not transport it out of the tank and into the draining field unless the downhill slope is maintained.
- 40 vent caps approximately one foot through the wall or under the footing and at least five feet outside the structure or dwelling, pointing toward the tank.
- If it is necessary, you may take it all the way into the tank, or you can swap to 4-inch 3034 after that.
- Make certain that the pipe end that emerges from the building is equipped with a test cap.
- When installing your input pipe, it is critical to keep the pitch at 1/8th of an inch per foot or less, and to keep it at least 5 feet away from the house.
- It’s also possible that you’ll have insufficient space left to properly drain the effluent into the draining field.
Step 6: Install Draining Field
Generally, a 12 inch coating of washed drain rock will be required surrounding the pipe in order to keep it stable while it is transporting stuff. According to your local health criteria, the size of the gravel and the depth of this layer will be determined. If you are placing perforated pipe in a gravity septic system drain field, keep in mind that the pipe has no slope on either end and is capped on both ends.
Step 7: Inspection and Filling In
Following the permission of your local health inspector, it is time to cover everything with dirt and finish the job. To cover your cleaned drain rock before covering it with soil, you will most likely need a specific cloth that functions as a filter, untreated construction paper, or four inches of straw to cover the drainage region.
Bonus for Pump Plastic Septic Tank Installations:
If you have a pumped plastic septic tank installation, there will only be a few variations in the process you will go through. Before you can connect your plastic septic tank to your draining field, you must first construct a pump chamber in your home. The pump chamber is constructed in a manner similar to that of the septic tank, but the electrical aspects of the pump will necessitate the services of a certified electrician to ensure that you are in compliance with state standards. Those who live in areas with a lot of groundwater may find that their pump chamber is mostly empty most of the time, and others may find that they need to add more weight to the floatation mechanism that switches the pump on and off.
Not until you have obtained your permits and asked for assistance from local septic specialists at the first indication of problems, not after you have put everything together, filled it in, and discovered evidence of sewage leakage when you first turn on the water, should you begin digging.
If any part of this instruction seemed unfamiliar to you, there’s no shame in asking for clarification! Early involvement with the specialists will save you a great deal of time, money, and the frustration of having to repair a septic system that was badly constructed.
Septic tank connection to drainpipe
Thank you to everyone for your prompt and helpful responses. The tank is made of plastic, I’m thinking polypropylene, and it’s around 7 years old. Because it’s hidden, it’s impossible to identify what brand it is. Not wanting to waste time digging up the input side when I was only looking for the outlet port to attach the drainfield pipe to, I didn’t bother digging up the input side. However, it looks that the output port I discovered is on the side, while the input port appears to be on the front.
- and the drainpipe’s outside diameter.
- However, as previously stated, the internal diameter of the collar is more like 5 inches, resulting in a gap of approximately 1/2 inch between the inside surface of the collar and the outer surface of the drainpipe.
- So it appears that I will search for a gasket and, if that is unsuccessful, will cover the annulus with a sealing foam.
- Once again, thank you.
Septic Tanks and Components
Please accept my sincere thanks for your prompt and informative responses. My best estimation is that the tank is made of plastic and is around 7 years old (polypropylene). Because it’s hidden, it’s impossible to determine what brand it is! There was no need in squandering time digging up the input side when I was simply looking for the output port so I could connect the drainfield pipe. Although the output port I discovered is on the side, it looks that the input port I discovered is on the front, as seen in Figure 1.
- and the drainpipe o.d., for example).
- According to my measurements, the internal diameter of the collar is more like 5 inches, leaving approximately 1/2 inch of space between the inside surface of collar and outer surface of drainpipe.
- In such case, it appears that I will seek out an annulus gasket and, if that fails, will fill the annulus with a sealing foam to seal the joint.
- Please accept my sincere gratitude once more.
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Durable septic tanks
Den Hartog Industries’ Ace Roto-Mold 1,500-gallon septic tanks are designed to be safe and durable, and they are constructed under strict quality control standards. They are designed to be placed up to 36 inches below ground level in horizontal-flow, single- or double-compartment configurations. A circumferential ribbing system and an internal baffle system are built into the tanks to withstand external pressures of up to 500 psf. Rubber gaskets are used to keep the two access ports from leaking into the tank during operation.
Tanks can be ordered with plumbing that meets or exceeds state or county requirements.
Three bayonet keys are used to secure the access covers to the tank body, which are double-walled.
The tanks have been tested by NSF and found to be compliant with the IAPMO Z1000 and CAN/CSA-B-66 specifications.
The 3-Filter Manifold from Bear Onsite allows three ML3-9XX series or ML2-9XX series effluent filters to be installed and maintained within a 24-inch riser assembly, which is ideal for smaller installations. With the use of a 4-inch SCH 40 PVC cross, cases and cartridges may be securely clustered. This allows a maintenance plate to be placed into each case to shut off flow, or for each filter cartridge to be removed for cleaning, while still providing room for the pump and service to be carried out.
The Bio-Microbics SaniTEE effluent filter prevents floatables, FOG, and particles from exiting the septic tank by trapping them in the filter. By encouraging natural sedimentation and enabling particles to slough back into the septic tank rather than accumulating inside the filter housing, the device is less susceptible to blinding and clogging than other systems. Slip-in installation, clean-in-place maintenance with swabbing handles, angled slots, and keyhole weirs all contribute to the continuous flow of the system.
It may be used in residential, commercial, and stormwater applications.
Gravity effluent filters from Clarus Environmental are equipped with an inbuilt bypass protection system as well as a secondary screen that protects the outlet when the primary filter is removed for cleaning. The filters are available in two different sizes: residential and commercial. 800/928-7867;
Hedstrom Plastics manufactures septic lids that are constructed of green, heavy-wall polyethylene and are designed to suit standard 18- and 24-inch double-wall corrugated pipe (not included). The lids, which are lightweight and may be personalized with corporate names, are available.
Covers can be filled with sand on the job site to give them more weight. In addition to the gaskets and safety bolts that are supplied, foam-filled lids are also available. Tank adapters are offered in two different sizes: 18-inch and 24-inch. There are safety netting available. 800/765-9665;
Crest Precast precast tanks with a capacity of 40,000 gallons can be utilized as septic, pump, recirculation, or holding tanks. A watertightness and corrosion resistance ingredient, Xypex, is included in a concrete mix for improved performance. Tanks can be equipped with aluminum hatch doors and can have a variety of access manhole sizes to choose from. The tanks are hefty and will not float if they are submerged. They can accept piping plans that are customized to meet the needs of the location at no additional expense.
The Infiltrator Systems IM-1060 tank is injection-molded for high strength and may be used in septic, pump, or rainfall applications. Each tank half has a mid-seam junction that accommodates a designed EPDM gasket, resulting in a structural tank that is completely waterproof. The tank’s two-piece construction makes it easier to carry and store due to its small weight. During the fabrication process, a set of noncorrosive plastic alignment dowels and locking seam clips are used to firmly attach the tank pieces together before installation.
The tank may be built with a lid ranging from 6 to 48 inches in height, and it can be pumped dry.
A custom-fit riser system and heavy-duty lids are available for purchase with the tank from the business.
One- and two-piece Hydra-Strip molds are available from Norwalk Precast Molds in a number of configurations for a wide range of applications. Every time, the technology removes the casting from the mold in a rapid and simple manner. This increases the quality of the casting while also extending the life expectancy of the casting mold. The molds are simple to clean and maintain, and they save labor expenses by reducing the time it takes to strip a mold to as little as five minutes when only one person is involved.
Alternatively, the method may be used to collapse the core of the mold, allowing users to cast tanks in a variety of shapes and sizes.
Bio-Kinetic wastewater management systems (Model BK 2000) from Norweco are designed to increase the performance and operational life of new and existing septic tanks, aerobic systems, leachfields, sand filters, mounds, built wetlands, grease traps, and oil interceptors, among other systems. Without relying on power or having any moving parts, the device protects household treatment facilities against hydraulic surges and solids washout by utilizing modern treatment procedures. The system turns septic tanks, tile fields, sand filters, and other traditional treatment devices into an advanced treatment solution by utilizing three filtering zones and nine settling zones.
The device is suitable for a wide range of applications because to its infinite design and installation freedom.
Installation takes only a few hours to finish. It provides long-term performance by combining filtration, solids retention and removal, flow equalization, optional chemical disinfection, and ease of maintenance into a single unit. 800/667-9326;
Bio-Kinetic wastewater management systems (Model BK 2000) from Norweco are designed to increase the performance and operational life of new and existing septic tanks, aerobic systems, leachfields, sand filters, mounds, built wetlands, grease traps, and oil interceptors, among other things. Without relying on power or having any moving parts, the device protects household treatment facilities against hydraulic surges and solids washout by employing modern treatment procedures. The system, which has three filtering zones and nine settling zones, turns septic tanks, tile fields, sand filters, and other traditional treatment devices into an advanced treatment system.
A wide range of applications may be served by the device, which has virtually limitless design and installation freedom.
Designed for long-term performance, it incorporates filtration, solids retention and removal, flow equalization, optional chemical disinfection, and easy maintenance.
The PRTA24-2 tank adapter from Orenco Systems is designed to be cast into a concrete tank fast and efficiently. By resting on the concrete, the wide outer flange helps to ensure that the adapter is always set to the right depth. The inner rib secures the adapter to the concrete, resulting in a strong connection between the tank and the adapter. When using the adapter, only a single bead of glue in the riser channel is required to ensure that the adapter and a 24-inch riser pipe are watertight.
Risers and lids
Easily accessible septic tanks, dosing tanks, and the company’s basin assemblies are made possible by access risers and lids from Quanics Inc. Water ingress is minimized thanks to an interlocking construction and neoprene gaskets. The substance is protected from the sun’s rays. Tamper-resistant screws made of stainless steel aid to prevent unwanted entrance. Concrete and fiberglass tanks may be accommodated by units with diameters ranging from 22 to 26 inches to 30 and 36 inches. 877/782-6427;
Weight ratings of 3,500 pounds are provided by RotoSolutions for their 24-inch septic covers. In place of concrete coverings, they are constructed of heavy-duty roto-molded plastic that is lightweight and simple to install. 800/868-0973;
The SIM/TECH FILTER STF-100A2 pressure filter is designed to assist maintain appropriate and efficient year-round functioning of mounds, sand filters, and other pressured distribution systems, among other things. The filter may also be used as a prefilter for drip irrigation systems, which will minimize the amount of maintenance required. The low headloss (0.21 psi) device is installed on the output side of an effluent pump, preventing clogged holes and lowering total suspended solids (TSS) in the effluent stream.
Cleaning the screen is made possible by the swirling movement caused by the pump.
The 2-inch filter has a maximum flow rate of 83.3 gpm and can handle a variety of flow rates.
Filters with larger diameters of 3 and 4 inches are also available. With the basic screen filtering to 1/16 inch, extra filtration to 600 microns (0.024 inch), 190 microns (0.007 inch), or 100 microns (0.001 inch) is possible with alternative stocks (0.004 inch). 888/999-3290;
Snyder Industries’ Dominator low-profile septic tanks may be buried without water to provide ballast and strength, and they can be backfilled with trash-free and free-flowing native soils to ensure proper operation. The tanks may also be used as holding tanks, and there are pump tank variants available as well. They are available in sizes ranging from 750 to 900 gallons to 1,050, 1,250, and 1,500 gallons, depending on the model. Cisterns are offered in two different capacities: 1,200-gallon and 1,700-gallon.
Fiberglass riser covers
Septic riser covers made of non-skid, kelp green fiberglass are available from TOPP Industries. They are designed to suit most 24-inch-diameter risers and corrugated pipe. The non-corrosive, lightweight coverings can bear a wheel load of 2,500 pounds without breaking down. The waterproof and gastight seal provided by the built-in lid gasket is exceptional. Providing consistency, dimensional precision and stability, the coverings are almost maintenance-free and impact-resistant in design. Bolt holes have been pre-drilled to allow for quick and easy construction, and stainless steel hardware has been provided for convenience.
Risers are offered in two heights: 24 inches and 6 inches, with 6-inch extensions as an option.
Tuf-watertight, Tite’s stackable risers are offered in 12-, 16-, 20-, and 24-inch diameters for use in septic tanks, advanced treatment plants, and cisterns, among other applications. Lids are equipped with a molded-in gasket that will not fall out and will maintain a tight seal. All lids may be filled with concrete and secured with vertical and horizontal safety screws. They can also be padlocked (included). Tank lids are available for concrete, plastic, and fiberglass tanks. 800/382-7009;
HS20-rated extra-heavy-duty precast tanks from Wieser Concrete are equipped with a variety of customization options such as bespoke openings, boots, inner walls, and baffles that may be tailored to meet specific application requirements. The tanks have a variety of uses and may be used for a variety of things, including water storage, grease storage, septage storage, and stormwater storage and treatment. They can resist a cover-bury depth of 12 feet and are designed for use in areas with high groundwater levels, according to the manufacturer.
» Installation Instructions
Underground Plastic Tank Installation|Above Ground Plastic Tank Installation is a type of underground plastic tank installation.
Underground Plastic Tank Installation
- Choose a location with adequate subsoil drainage. Allow enough space around the tank for the backfill to be properly placed and compacted around the lower half of the tank Provision of a well-compacted or undisturbed bedding of sand/gravel combination or clean, granular soil: 6 inches or more in rock terrain, depending on the kind of terrain. Form the bedding to fit the underside of the tank.
SETTING UP THE TANK
- Input and outlet orientations
- Shipping damage
- Serial number (for Warranty Form)
- And other information.
To level the inlet and exit, place a pipe level across the access cover. It is critical that the outflow is located below the level of the entrance. CAUTION: Use caution when handling. A violent collision might break the tank, especially in cold weather. IN ORDER TO AVOID FLOTATION OR DISTORTION
- If poly tanks are pumped out during periods of high water table, they run the danger of floating or distorting at the base. During really rainy weather, keep the tank just partly full. Installation of a vertical length of 4′′ perforated drainage pipe beside the tank with a detachable cover above grade level to monitor the water table level after it has been filled is recommended. Attach the label provided on the standpipe. Avoid pumping the tank out below the water table at all costs. Drainage lines should be run from under the tank out to daylight and downward away from it if the tank is on sloping terrain.
- It is required that the tank be refilled when it is either empty or less than 30 percent full. The backfilling technique does not necessitate the use of water. If the tank has been filled for leak testing, empty it to 30 percent or less before refilling it. Backfill with a maximum of 12′′ layers of granular soil or clean fill and stomp the dirt to ensure uniform distribution. THERE WILL BE NO CLAY BACKFILL. The backfill must be correctly put and compacted around the lower part of the tank, which is very important. Do not place the machine compact near the tank. It is not recommended to dump significant amounts of fill near to the tank. Check the level of the tank on a regular basis. Make certain that the backfill under the inlet and output pipe connectors is compacted. Build up the support beneath the pipelines to prevent probable pipe breakage caused by the settling of backfill over time. If the tank has become heated due to exposure to sunshine, leave it to cool before continuing with the backfilling. If there is no riser, waterproof tape should be used to seal the lids.
CONNECTIONS FOR PIPE:
- Make connections to the tank only when it is improbable that the tank will shift throughout the remainder of the backfilling. Rubber couplings of the type “Fernco” should be used
- All water tanks must be vented through pipe with a minimum diameter of 2 inches
- To allow pipes to deflect with tank expansion (in the case of water tanks), 90-degree elbows should be installed at output bulkhead connections. Make use of at least a 3-foot-long flexible hose from the pumps to allow for movement (if they are installed).
IMPORTANT CONSIDERATIONS FOR INSTALLATION:
- Tanks are used for burying the dead. For above-ground installations, consult the manufacturer. In the absence of special approval, tanks are designed to withstand up to TWO FEET of earth cover at 300 lbs./square foot. A SUPERTANK is capable of withstanding four feet of earth cover and 480 pounds per square foot of floor space
- FLOUT DOSING TANKS are capable of withstanding four feet of earth cover and 480 pounds per square foot of floor space
- A FLOUT DOSING TANK is capable of withstanding four feet of earth cover and four pounds per square foot of floor space
- Do not place yourself in the line of moving cars or heavy equipment. Keep a safe distance from big roots or rocks. Placement of the tank should be avoided in locations with a high water table. Use a reinforced tank in areas with a high water table
- Avoid putting the tank in damp clay soils
- And Surface runoff should be diverted away from the tank area. Fresh backfill has pores in it. Runoff might clog the area around the tank.
Download the Underground Tank Installation PDF Note: Installation instructions may differ depending on the jurisdiction in where the tank is installed. If you live outside of British Columbia, check with the factory. NOTE: If the manufacturer’s instructions are not followed exactly, the warranty will be voided.
Above Ground Plastic Tank Installation
WHAT KIND OF FOUNDATION IS REQUIRED?
- It is necessary to have a sturdy, flat base that is continuous under the whole tank
- Sand, fine gravel, clean soil, cement, or boards that are adequately supported and precisely spaced can be used as a base. Remove any pebbles that are bigger than half an inch in diameter. After filling the tank, check to see that it has not sunk and is still upright.
IS IT POSSIBLE TO USE A PLATFORM? Although it is possible, the tank bottom must be continually maintained, for example, with two layers of 3-4 inch plywood nailed together and to a sufficient support framework. In the sake of safety, it is recommended that an engineer be consulted. It is important to remember that the weight of water is 8.33 pounds per US gallon and 10 pounds per Canadian gallon. WHAT IS THE WEIGHT OF THE TANKS?
- The weight of above-ground tanks may be approximated by dividing the gallon capacity by five, which yields the following result: For example, a 1000-gallon tank will weigh around 200 pounds. For subterranean tanks, multiply the gallon capacity by three to get the volume.
DO THEY APPEAR TO BE EASY TO MANAGE?
- Almost all of the tanks may be transported using a pickup truck or a trailer. Considering that polyethylene is a fairly robust substance, it is doubtful that any damage would occur during cautious handling and transit. Extreme cold weather necessitates extra caution due to the fact that the tank will become harder and more fragile.
Is it possible to put pressure in the tank? NO! At all times, polyethylene tanks must be exposed to the outside environment or vented. Because they are mounted at a greater height, they can be utilized to supply a head of water, but they are not capable of being exposed to any external pressure sources. If required, install a float valve on the intake line. WHAT ABOUT THE PRODUCTION OF ALGAE? The entry of light into the tank encourages the growth of algae. Keeping the tank away from direct sunlight and using a darker tank color, as well as sanitation, can help to keep algae development under control.
- Tanks are designed expressly for usage above or below ground, depending on their intended function. Above-ground tanks feature smooth sides and are exclusively intended for installation on the ground. The tanks may, however, be lowered into the ground to a depth equal to 20 percent of the tank’s height in order to lower the tank’s above-ground profile
WHAT ACCESSORIES ARE INCLUDED WITH THE TANK?
- The bottom of the majority of above-ground water tanks is equipped with a 1 inch or 2 inch female threaded pipe connection, while the top is equipped with a 16 inch access cap. Breather valves are included into the access caps, allowing air to enter and exit when the water level changes. Making the necessary connections can be accomplished with the assistance of a local plumber or plumbing supply company. Check to verify that the bulkhead drain/outlet fittings are securely fastened to the tank. As a result, while tightening external connections, the lock nut on the fittings features a reverse thread to prevent it from coming free. Hand tighten threads several rounds to ensure that the threads are aligned and that the possibility of stripping is minimized. When the tank is completely full, check for leaks and tighten only enough to prevent any leaks. Excessive tightening may result in the threads of the pipe being stripped or the bulkhead fittings being cracked, requiring replacement. Additional connections for intake pipes are provided on an as-needed basis in response to client requests. Pipe Sizing Chart may be used to determine approximate pipe sizes.
DOES SUNLIGHT HAVE ANY IMPACT ON THE TANKS?
- Over time, exposure to sunshine causes the plastic to harden, making it more prone to shattering if the tank is subjected to a significant amount of force. Almost all of Premier Plastics’ tanks are treated with a UV inhibitor, which helps to reduce the hardening process. Tanks that are darker in color or black will likely survive longer.
WHAT DO YOU THINK ABOUT COLLECTING RAINWATER?
- Rainwater collection is a good technique to bridge periods of limited water supply. The usage of a filter basket is recommended to screen out leaves, twigs, and other material that may enter the gutter system from the eaves troughs. Boiling or disinfection of water is required for all uses including drinking, cooking, and dishwashing. It is possible to use clean rainwater for large-volume applications such as toilet flushing and laundry, showering, cleaning automobiles, and watering the yard. A ‘Pneumatic Dipstick’ level gauge from Premier Plastics may be used to monitor the water level in a container.
WHAT IS THE DURATION OF THE WARRANTY?
- IS THE WARRANTY VALID FOR A COUPLE OF YEARS?
ARE THE TANKS SAFE FOR USING AS DRINKING WATER STORAGE?
- No. Our food-grade polyethylene tanks are built in accordance with FDA rules 21 CFR 177.1520(c)3.1, NSF Standard 61, and Canadian Standards Association (CSA) 6861-05
- And, yes, they are recyclable. It is, of course, your job to ensure that the water in the tank is of high quality. Water quality information may be received from a variety of sources, including water delivery corporations, well drillers, and public health authorities. A new tank’s bottom may include small particles of polyethylene that have been cleaned but not disinfected. Factory tanks are clean but not disinfected. These are created while cutting holes for fittings and will float to the surface when filled or can be cleaned out
- They are created when cutting holes for fittings.
WILL I BE ABLE TO TELL THE DIFFERENCE IN TASTE?
- Ideally, your pipework should be linked in such a manner that incoming water is constantly flushing through the tank
- Water that has been sitting in any form of vented container for an extended amount of time will develop a “flat” flavor. This is due to the fact that the water has lost its ability to hold air. This may be partially remedied by half-filling a closed jar with water and rapidly shaking it to introduce air back into it
HOW CAN A STORAGE TANK ASSIST A SLOW PRODUCING BUSINESS SUCCESS?
- Numerous customers are reporting a decrease in the flow rate from their water wells. Well pumps are often designed to generate water “on demand,” which means that if your bathtub fills at a rate of 5 gallons per minute, the well must supply water at a rate of 5 gallons per minute for the whole time the bath is running. Using a storage tank, short times of high demand may be met by drawing from the tank rather than straight from the well. If a storage tank is employed, a household consuming 400 gallons per day would require their well to generate no more than 400 gallons over the course of 24 hours. On average, a well only has to produce half a gallon per minute for 24 hours to fulfill a family’s water demands. A popular technique is to drop a truckload of water down a slow-producing well in order to speed up production. There would be no loss of water due to seepage if all water deliveries were stored into a storage tank, resulting in cost savings. Your local well driller can provide you with system sizing and planning information.
HOW DOES IT EXPERIENCE IF MY TANK FREEZES?
- It is improbable that a tank that is just partly filled will rupture. The ice will cause the walls to bulge as a result of the pressure. Only over prolonged periods of cold weather can a tank become prone to freezing. Piping should be shielded or drained during freezing weather since the lesser volume of water in the piping will freeze more quickly and may cause the pipe to split. Consult with a contractor who is knowledgeable with the conditions
- The tank can be insulated with a waterproof insulation or housed in an insulated shed if the risk of freezing is high. An underground tank provides the best protection against freezing conditions. It will also help to keep the water cold throughout the hot months.