How To Fix A Baffle In A Concrete Septic Tank? (Perfect answer)

  • The remains of the baffle should be removed by use of concrete saw or cold chisel and replaced with the sanitary tee connected to the outlet pipe. There may be the need to repair the concrete around the pipe or retrofit a rubber gasket to ensure the tank remains watertight and root free.

How much does it cost to fix a septic tank baffle?

Repairing a baffle costs $300 to $900 on average. You may pay more if it’s tough to access. The baffle helps to prevent buildup in the incoming or outgoing pipes of the tank.

Can you repair a cement septic tank?

To repair large cracks, your septic repair technician will pump out and clean the tank. They will let it thoroughly dry and then apply concrete crack filler to the cracks. Finally, once cured, then the tank can safely be used again.

How long does a septic baffle last?

Inspectapedia estimates that a steel tank baffles will rust out in 15 to 20 years and may collapse if driven over, but a concrete tank will last 40 years or more as long as the wastewater is not acidic. It’s important to consider the life expectancy of a drain-field, too.

What is concrete baffle?

Most concrete septic tanks have precast concrete baffles inside the tank to keep the major solids from going out into your septic drainfield. This, in turn, prematurely clogs the drainfield and causes costly repairs or replacements.

Can septic tank baffles be replaced?

If septic tank baffles are lost or damaged (rusted off on a steel tank or broken off on a concrete tank), they can be repaired or replaced. Baffles in a septic tank are provided to keep solids and floating scum and grease inside the tank.

How does a septic tank outlet baffle work?

Septic baffles are located at the junctions where pipes enter and exit the tank. The one at the inlet pipe is called the inlet baffle, and the one at the outlet is called the outlet baffle. It’s designed to help wastewater flow smoothly into the tank without disturbing the scum layer.

Can you repair the top of a septic tank?

If it is not rusted, you can replace the rusted top with a heavy-duty plastic or concrete lid. Concrete septic tank covers are heavy but strong and durable. Plastic covers offer faster access to the septic tank and are much easier to install.

Can you repair a leaking septic tank?

Sealing a leaking tank may fix the problem for a short time, but is not a long term solution. Once a tank begins to leak, a replacement is usually recommended. Depending on the age of the system and local regulations, replacing a septic tank may require replacing the entire system.

Does my septic tank need a baffle?

Inlet baffles are needed for proper performance of the septic tank. Raw sewage from the residence is directed by the baffle downward into the middle zone of the septic tank. This means the effluent follows a tortuous path through the tank, which provides the necessary detention time for the larger solids to settle out.

Why is there a baffle in a septic tank?

The inlet baffle directs the flow of wastewater into your septic tank, and prevents the scum layer in the tank from being disturbed. It also can help prevent solids from backing up toward the house if you should experience a septic system backup.

Expert Tips for Baffle Repair

Receive articles, stories, and videos about repair sent directly to your email! Now is the time to sign up. Repair+ Receive Notifications One perk of working on septic systems for more than 40 years is that the folks I’ve met and worked with are frequently willing to offer images or tales that they find interesting. In this particular instance, my colleague Kim Seipp emailed me a photo of a repair work she had completed in Colorado. Hopefully, everyone who reads this recognizes right away that this is not the appropriate method of repairing or replacing a baffle in a concrete tank.

These baffles must be the right length and have a space between their top and the bottom of the tank lid to allow for the exchange of gases and the ventilation of the tank.

Thus, sewage travels through the tank on an irregular course, providing the detention time necessary for bigger particles to be settled out before the effluent is transferred to the final treatment and dispersion section of the system.

A floating scum blockage is prevented by the intake baffle from clogging the inlet pipe.

  1. It is necessary to maintain floating scum in the tank, which is composed of oil and soap residue, so that it can be removed when the tank is cleaned.
  2. A deteriorating concrete baffle at the exit of a septic tank is seen in this photograph.
  3. Due to the fact that the sanitary tee is connected to the tank’s output pipe by couplings, the person(s) who completed this project had the appropriate concept.
  4. This baffle will not perform the critical job of providing a relatively clear liquid to the next component of the system since there is no effluent filter in place.
  5. The concrete around the pipe may require repair, and a rubber gasket may need to be installed retroactively to guarantee that the tank stays watertight and root-free.
  6. The outlet baffle should be extended to a depth of 25 percent of the operating depth in the tank to ensure proper operation.

As an example, if the tank is 60 inches deep, the baffle would need to be 15 inches longer. I’d be interested in hearing how others might go about mending a baffle in the future. Leave a comment below or send an email to [email protected] with your baffle repair suggestions.

Concrete Septic Tank Baffle – RIDGID Forum

Concerning the Concrete Septic Tank Baffle Your septic technician may be able to assist you in determining who made the tank and obtaining an appropriate baffle from them. If I were in your situation, I would consider casting my own baffle by laying a sheet of plastic on the ground or a plywood or concrete floor and creating a wood form, cutting some rebar, and creating an extended bar grid to allow for lifting loops throught a section of the tank’s interior. As far as replacing baffels goes, I have never done it, (I may be wrong but I was under the impression that the baffels in my concrete were made of a special cement that was extra strong in cement content, let it set for a week or two, and then put it in place, one may need to check for tapers on the side, and so on, but many of the tanks and other smaller precast concrete were made by smaller concrete companies as a way to do something during the off season or to use If casting it and setting it in after the fact would be a difficulty, access would appear to be a potential issue, photos would be helpfull in understanding precisely what you’re working with and how it’s constructed, Pushing sticks/blocks are used.

Fingers should be saved.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ NOTE TO THE PUBLIC: Due to recent budget cuts, rising power, gas, and oil prices, as well as the present status of the economy, a public notice is being issued.

How to Replace a Septic Tank Baffle

In the event if your septic tank is kept in good condition by frequent plumping, a septic tank baffle is not necessarily essential. Even if there isn’t one, the tank is perfectly functioning. Providing that it is well maintained, with regular pumping, or that there are no other difficulties that might cause a large amount of sludge to accumulate in your tank, this should be possible for you. For example, if your tank has to be pumped out once every 4 or 5 years, or if the wastes are discharged into a drain field, you should consider installing a filter on the outlet side of the tank.

If the baffle on your tank has been rusted or broken, you may replace it rather than having to purchase a completely new tank.

Step 1 – Accessing the Septic Tank

You should get access to the exterior of the septic tank, which is where the water is discharged into the drain field. If you are unable to reach the lid from the ground level, you will need to dig to gain access to the lid.

Step 2 – Clean the Area

If there is a tank leak, you should contact the local health department to find out what you need do to clean up the area around the leaking tank.

Step 3 – Pump the Tank

If there are any issues, you should pump the tank in order to ease the difficulties that are now present. If you want to replace the baffle or possibly the entire septic tank, this is a very crucial step. Step 4 – Unlock the outlet side of the device. Once you’ve opened the lid on the outlet side, you should be able to reach the top of the baffle and slide the new filter or new baffle down until you reach the handle of the filter, as shown in the picture.

The access plate should be elevated above ground level if digging was required in order to reach it. This allows each individual user to readily determine if the filter is clogged without needing to dig up and down the entire trench again.

Extra Tips

You should keep in mind that, while filters can solve many issues, they can also cause many new ones. So be cautious while using filters. If you are the system owner and you perform the work on your own, you are aware that the system and filter must be properly maintained in order to avoid clogging and other problems. Solid waste depositions in the drain field are caused by clogging of the drain. According to other reports, the technology may even back them up inside the house. It is possible to extend the life of a septic tank and system by reducing the quantity of water that enters the particular system.

If you keep track of how much water you use, you may save money on water and avoid having to make costly repairs to your septic tank.


By Admin on November 12, 2020 Your efforts to live as environmentally conscious as possible, as a responsible homeowner, are likely already underway, with practices such as recycling, composting, and purchasing energy-efficient equipment among your list of accomplishments. As a septic tank owner, you want to be sure that anything you put into your tank and septic field is causing the least amount of ground contamination as is reasonably practicable. Fortunately, there are a number of modest improvements you can do immediately to make your septic system even more ecologically friendly than it already is.

  • Have your septic tank inspected and pumped on a regular basis.
  • A bigger septic tank with only a couple of people living in your house, for example, will not require pumping as frequently as a smaller septic tank or as a septic tank that must manage the waste products of multiple family members will require.
  • When in doubt about how often to pump your septic tank, consult with a professional for advice.
  • In addition to locating and repairing any damage, a professional can ensure that the septic field is in good working order and that your septic tank is functional, large enough to handle your family’s waste, and not causing any unwanted pollution in nearby ground water.
  • Avoid flushing non-biodegradable items down the toilet or down the toilet.
  • Items that are not biodegradable are unable to properly decompose in the septic tank and might cause the system to get clogged.
  • In addition to causing issues in your house, septic system backups can damage ground water in the area surrounding your septic field.
  • Large amounts of food scraps in your septic tank can cause a clog.
  • Instead of placing food scraps into your tank, consider another, more eco-conscious choice: a backyard compost pile.
  • Excess water use will upset the natural flow of wastewater from your home into your septic tank.
  • Limiting the time you are in the shower, turning off the faucet while you are brushing your teeth, and investing in a smaller dishwasher and washing machine that use less water are a few simple ways you can prevent excessive water use in your home.

From conserving water to maintaining your septic system and tank, there are several simple ways you can make your septic system more environmentally friendly. Contact the professionals atUpstate Septic Tank, LLC, with any of your septic tank related questions.

Old Septic System Baffle Repair

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Old Septic System Baffle Repair
Author:mstruttm (FL)Just had my very old septic system inspected and pumped. Turns out the concrete baffles have rotten and fallen into the tank. It’s not really feasible to use PVC tees as new baffles because the tank is so old that it has two clay outlet pipes. I was thinking about building some baffles out of stainless steel similar to the old concrete baffles and fastening them with tapcons to the septic walls. Is this a good idea?The outlet baffle looked like this _/ if you were looking from the top down into the septic tank, with the outlet pipe in between the opening. It probably went down about two feet. The inlet baffle seemed to just be a wall that went from one side of the tank to the other, but I’m not sure how far it went down.Edited 1 times.
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Re: Old Septic System Baffle Repair
Author:Dunbar (KY)Those baffles go to the bottom, and are designed as such to allow the first bay to take on most of the solids, second bay to settle waterborn particulates, third bay to be the finished “clear” effluent that safely distrubutes to the finger system of leaching fields.I haven’t seen John Aldrich “Septic Tank Yank” here in a long time. Anyone know of his whereabouts?His last post was around 318,000 and we’re at 383,000 on this thread.Right about the time I stopped getting emails from him. I hope all is well.-Always be aware of cross-connections in your potable water systems-They could one day harm you and your loved ones.Edited 2 times.
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Re: Old Septic System Baffle Repair
Author:PBwrencher (WI)Tank Yank would be the best source for this question however; from my limited experience this person is looking at replacing that old thing, you could image what the rest it of looks like, it’s lived it’s life and now a new one is needed.10-22-08, 8:18am- – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – -3 years before Google started has been THE best plumbing supplier on the web. Please visit our sponsor
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Re: Old Septic System Baffle Repair
Author:hj (AZ)The outlet baffle is to prevent grease, etc., on top of the water from exiting through the outlet. The inlet baffle goes down to a point a foor or so above the floor to give the influent time to separate.
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Re: Old Septic System Baffle Repair
Author:mstruttm (FL)I understand that the system is very old and will need replacing, but it is still functioning and I would like to get as much life out of it as possible. Now isn’t the best time to be forking out $5,000-$10,000.After the tank was pumped, I could see the outlet baffle at the bottom of the tank and it definately was not long enough to go all the way to the bottom. The pump guy said it only runs down a couple of feet. He told me I shouldn’t really be concerned with the inlet baffle and it was the outlet baffle that was important. I’m just thinking something will be better than nothing so I can get some more life out of the system.
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Re: Old Septic System Baffle Repair
Author:dlh (TX)this isnt a car. i have never heard of anyone repairing a septic tank.i have found it is much better to bite the bullet now than it is to wait. waiting almost always means a larger bill in the end.-PLUMBERS “Protecting The Health Of The Nation”
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Re: Old Septic System Baffle Repair
Author:yonson (SC)My septic guy told me the same thing when my exit collapsed (the exit is most important). He placed a “t” type port at the exit, but mine was PVC. An easy fix.
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Re: Old Septic System Baffle Repair
Author:LemonPlumber (FL)Do you have a scrap or 12″ diameter pvc pipe,two feet long?cut it in half use half at each end tapcon it with the top, at the top of the inlet hole and the outlet four inches or so higher than that.Old culvert pipe.Dead propane cylinder.If you use metal it may decay faster but should give you five years to save up.Good Luck with any rig.You need a new tank.
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Re: Old Septic System Baffle Repair
Author:mstruttm (FL)Ok, I know the tank needs replacing, but it’s not going to hurt by rigging it to last a little longer since the entire system will need to be replaced anyway. I am not doing any more damage by not replacing it now.So, the 12″ PVC sounds like the best idea yet.
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Re: Old Septic System Baffle Repair
Author:PBwrencher (WI)”There is nothing so permanent then something so temporary.”The plumber I served my apprenticeship under would say that when we were called in to make the correct repair after a handyman or homeowner only did a temporary fix that would last sometimes for years.Be honest, it will never get fixed until the system completely craps out.10-23-08, 7:18am- – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – -3 years before Google started has been THE best plumbing supplier on the web. Please visit our sponsor
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Re: Old Septic System Baffle Repair
Author:yonson (SC)”it will never get fixed until the system completely craps out”Pun intended?
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Re: Old Septic System Baffle Repair
Author:mstruttm (FL)I also plan on constructing new concrete lids. Is this ok to do with quickrete conrete mix and rebar? I want to make sure that there is no danger of the lids breaking, which there is with the current lids.
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Re: Old Septic System Baffle Repair
Author:hi (TX)Hello,You may still be helped.The exit T and the baffle are placed to keep solids and greases out of the leach field which will plug the pores and render the leach field inoperative and result in effluent finding its way to the surface.You have a two chamber tank that has made itself a one chamber tank with the collapse of the baffle wall.This is not an infrequent finding during septic inspections done properly.Your best (most effective and cost effective)fix is to place a PVC Tee on the outlet to the box.This keeps the floating solids out of the field.It needs to be fit solidly and leak free to be effective and long lasting.If possible also place an inlet T to force “incoming” waste to go to the bottom rather than float across to the exit of the tank.If the repair exposes the exit of the tank you may also want to include an effluent filter to trap solids before they go to the field. This is a newer design that further reduces material that can plug up the leach field.Be careful with the tanks as they can collapse and may not have enough oxygen to support life inside!Safety is Most important!Here is a article discussing your exact question. The website contains a “wealth” of septic info.Here is another (scroll about 3/4 way down and see the part about the baffle deterioration and repair.)
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Re: Old Septic System Baffle Repair
Author:mstruttm (FL)I mentioned in my first post that using tees is not feasible at the outlet due to there being two clay outlet pipes. I guess I could try to use two tees, but how would I secure them to the clay pipes?
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Re: Old Septic System Baffle Repair
Author:LemonPlumber (FL)You might be better off wrapping the old ones,with rewire making the joint on top then adding a 2″ layer of topping mix.Good Luck.Unless you intend to pour the lid’s six or more inches thick,smaller stone or sand type should be used.
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Re: Old Septic System Baffle Repair
Author:PBwrencher (WI)Don’t you have plumbing codes in Florida where the concrete tank and top must be made of Monolithic Concrete and must have the strength of 2000lbs per sq inch or more so it does not cave in on a poor sole years from now:10-25-08, 8:20am- – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – -3 years before Google started has been THE best plumbing supplier on the web. Please visit our sponsor
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Re: Old Septic System Baffle Repair
Author:redwood (CT)Things are a tad bit lax in Florida IMHO- – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – -Since 1995 (3 years before Google started) has been THE best plumbing supplier on the web. Please visit our sponsor
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Re: Old Septic System Baffle Repair
Author:mstruttm (FL)Quickrete says it is 4000 psi.
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Re: Old Septic System Baffle Repair
Author:rca411 (OK)Can’t you just dig it up some behind the tank, then stub PVC back into the septic tank and glue on a sanitary tee for a new baffle?
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How to Replace an Outlet Baffle in an Existing Septic Tank

The baffles in your septic tank are critical to the proper operation of the tank. If the baffles in the tank are not working properly, the sludge floating in the tank might enter the field lines or back up into the home drainage system. It is possible for baffles to rust, crack, or otherwise degrade over time. Every time the tank is emptied out, it is important to inspect the baffles to ensure that they are in excellent working order.

Step 1

Find the location of the septic tank. Most contemporary tanks feature two access doors, one on each end of the tank, which makes for easier maintenance. Excavate to the top of the septic tank and remove enough dirt to expose both access hatches and provide you with enough space to operate comfortably and safely. Check to see that you will not be dumping dirt into the tank while you are working.

Step 2

Make sure you open both hatches and get a professional to pump out the septic tank. A licensed specialist is equipped with the necessary equipment to correctly pump out waste materials and dispose of them in a safe and legal manner, as well. It is not recommended that you enter the septic tank or allow anybody else to enter the tank. The gases are poisonous, and the absence of oxygen can induce asphyxia in a short period of time.

Step 3

Making use of the PVC pipe and connection, you may construct a replacement baffle. Using a hacksaw, cut a portion of tubing long enough to connect to an existing drain and pass through the side of the septic tank. Glue the tee connection onto the pipe that runs through the interior of the tank. Add a length of pipe 24 inches long to the bottom of the tee and a 6-inch piece to the top of the tee to complete the construction. Install a grate cap on the top section of the chimney, which will enable gases to leave but prevent solids from entering the chimney.

Step 4

Check that all of the fittings and connections are securely and firmly in place before proceeding. Check to see that the seal around the pipe where it enters the septic tank is secure to ensure that there is no leaking. For effective liquid flow management into the field line, the baffle on the outlet end of the septic tank should be 4 to 6 inches longer than the baffle on the input end. According to the manufacturer, the 24-inch portion of pipe that was installed should be more than enough to satisfy this requirement.

Step 5

In order to ensure that they are firmly in place, replace the access hatches and back-fill the hole with a suitable material. It is important to check on the new baffles the next time the tank is emptied out to ensure that they are still in place and in excellent shape.

Preventive Maintenance: Baffle Replacement Becomes Legitimate…

This intake baffle will be unsuccessful at directing flow downward for efficient settling because it will not direct flow downward.

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Get articles, news, and videos about Onsite Systems delivered directly to your email! Now is the time to sign up. Plus, there are Onsite Systems. Receive Notifications In the course of an inspection of a septic tank, how can I determine when the baffles need to be replaced? ANSWER: Many talks with service providers concerning concrete tank corrosion issues have taken place over the years, including baffle degradation – which is often focused on the outlet baffle – and baffle replacement. The baffles in earlier tanks were frequently made of cast-in-place concrete.

These baffles and screens are required by a number of states and municipal governments for new construction.

In order to understand the function of the baffles, which I discussed in this column for a prior discussion on corrosion, it is vital to recall what they are for.

The input baffle guides the flow from the house sewage lower into the tank, resulting in a longer detention period for the solids to settle and settle more thoroughly. In addition, it prevents the floating scum layer from clogging the input pipe with debris.


The exit baffle prevents floating scum or debris from entering the drainfield and guarantees that the effluent that is discharged to the next component of the system comes from the tank’s clean effluent zone, which is important for water quality. In today’s world, we improve debris removal by utilizing effluent screens to prevent big floating particles from entering the downstream flow. My response to the question is as follows: If the baffle is degrading and the degradation is preventing the baffle from performing its intended function, the baffle should be changed immediately.

  1. In this column, I will provide a suggestion for the second half, which is easier than convincing the homeowner that they need expensive repair done on their system, which is more difficult.
  2. As previously stated, many licensing agencies need effluent screens when a tank is rebuilt or repaired, as noted above.
  3. Salespeople should have little trouble convincing homeowners that an effluent screen is a type of insurance policy that would cover the more expensive components of their system.
  4. Thanks to Jeff and Kim Seipp of High Plains Sanitation in Colorado for providing the photo of the outlet baffle that was used in this article.
  5. Other photos, including one from Arizona, were taken as part of a point-of-sale real estate inspection and have been shared with us.


One image depicts a badly built inlet baffle, which, in my view, will not perform its intended role of guiding flow downhill or preventing scum from filling the baffle. Another shot depicts a poorly designed outlet baffle. There are definitely some additional issues with this tank as well; given there appears to be degradation in the cover as well as signs that rebar is beginning to show through, it is possible that the entire tank may need to be replaced at some point. The baffle, at the absolute least, needs to be upgraded or replaced.

There is another issue that is apparent here: the piping is located far enough into the tank that there is not much clean space between the baffle wall and the piping between the baffle wall and the piping.

One crucial point to remember is to proceed with caution when removing the remaining concrete baffle to avoid damaging the tank wall.

The inspection of the baffle may provide signs that the tank is failing and in need of replacement in some circumstances. This instance highlights the need of having an in-depth discussion with the homeowner about the problem.

A Baffling Problem: Are Damaged Baffles Causing Your Septic Tank Troubles? – Understanding New Septic Systems

Generally speaking, a properly designed and maintained septic tank is a pretty dependable piece of equipment, however they can occasionally experience problems with operation. Although it is typically simple to identify when your house or business’s sewage system is failing, it can be far more difficult to figure out why things are going wrong without professional assistance. Despite the fact that broken baffles are a major source of septic tank difficulty, many septic tank owners are completely unaware of what these crucial components are or what they do.

  1. If they are, you should replace them immediately.
  2. There are typically two baffles in a septic tank: an inlet baffle, which is installed where the sewage pipe enters the tank, and an outlet baffle, which is installed on the exit pipe, which allows the processed liquids to flow into the tank’s drain field.
  3. The majority of baffles used in modern septic tanks are constructed of robust polymers that can withstand repeated use for many years.
  4. As a result, if your tank is equipped with concrete baffles, it may be more susceptible to baffle failure than other tanks, although plastic baffles may also break over lengthy years of usage.
  5. If the exit baffle of your septic tank gets broken or blocked, the flow of treated sewage into your drain field will not be adequately controlled.
  6. Problems with either baffle can result in extensive flooding of your tank’s drain field, which will ultimately become obvious when water begins to pool at the soil’s surface due to the accumulation of water.
  7. If a blocked baffle is left untreated for an extended period of time, sewage may begin to back up into the plumbing system of your house or place of business.
  8. Indications that one or both septic tank baffles are failing include a flooded drain field and a plugged sewage line in the yard.
  9. Therefore, if you are experiencing any of the difficulties listed above, you should always contact a professional septic tank repair provider right once.

Professional services have the skills and knowledge essential to restore your septic tank and its baffles to full operating condition as quickly as possible after they have been damaged. Companies such as American Septic Service can provide assistance.


Tank System Reconstruction Replacement of the baffle A baffle is a barrier or shield that is installed in front of the tank’s inlet and exit openings. These shields, which are made of concrete, PVC, or plastic, are critical to the effective working of the system. The entrance baffle, which is partly submerged and half exposed to the water, is meant to redirect incoming waste down into the tank, preventing the tank from being agitated. When you agitate the tank, the settled sewage rises to the surface, flows out of the tank, and plugs the drainfield.

  1. One of the most common reasons for septic tank lines to become clogged is the absence of a baffle within the tank.
  2. At each service visit to your septic system, we perform a visual inspection of each baffle to ensure that they are in good working order and performing their function!
  3. Tank Ventilation and Sealing In the course of time, tanks, particularly those built of steel, can degrade and develop holes through which ground water can enter the tank.
  4. Excavation for coverDigging We will find your tank cover and dig up your tank for you at no additional charge.
  5. During the winter months, we may thaw the ground with the help of a heat blanket, which will make digging more convenient.
  6. Some tanks have deteriorated to the point that the structural integrity has been compromised, and in those cases, we urge that they be replaced.
  7. During this repair operation, a tank entrance will be created in order to install a custom-made polypropylene piece that will protect the wall and serve as a baffle.
  8. A rusted tank will eventually need to be replaced, but this repair can significantly extend the life of the tank.


In its most basic form, your septic tank separates liquids from solids, then retains the solids until they can be pumped out while sending the liquids to a distribution field. However, this system is far more complicated than it appears at first look. However, these procedures might be a little more sophisticated than they appear at first glance. It is possible that certain sections of the tank, even if they are the simplest and most basic, may need to be replaced from time to time, such as the baffles at the entrance and outflow, as well as the baffle filter (also called effluent filter).

  1. FUNCTIONS OF THE SEPTIC BAFFLE Septic baffles are situated at the intersections where pipes enter and exit the tank to prevent clogging.
  2. In many cases, the outlet baffle is regarded as the most critical baffle, since it prevents particles from departing the tank and making their way to the leach field, where they might clog and effectively damage the leach field system.
  3. Unfortunately, this baffle is also the first to give way under its own weight.
  4. Its purpose is to aid in the smooth flow of wastewater into the tank while minimizing disturbance of the scum layer.
  5. MATERIALS FOR SEPTIC BAFFLE Several types of septic baffles are available, some of which are constructed of concrete and others, particularly newer variants, which are composed of plastic such as ABS.
  6. The exit baffle is frequently equipped with an effluent filter, which increases the effectiveness of the baffle in terms of keeping solids out of the leach field.
  7. The effluent filter will need to be updated on a regular basis after that, but this is a small price to pay for avoiding having to redo your leach field as a result.
  8. Once a year, or whenever your tank is drained out, you should have the concrete baffles evaluated for structural integrity.
  9. Among the other baffle issues include blocked outlet baffles or outlet baffle filters, leaks at the baffle-to-tank connection, and inlet baffle obstructions, among other things.
  10. Baffle blockages can also arise as a result of tree roots entering the system through the input pipe or around the baffle.

Call Pete’s Outflow Technicians for any baffle repairs or replacements, filter installs, or baffle malfunction diagnosis. They have years of expertise in the field. In addition to septic repairs, pumping, and other upkeep, we can provide septic inspections when purchasing or selling a home.

[PDF] SEPTIC TANK BAFFLES – Inspecting the Condition of Septic Tank Baffles – Free Download PDF

1 SEPTIC TANK BAFFLES – Inspecting the condition of the baffles in the septic tank If the baffles at the septic tank exit are blocked, the tank will overflow. Inspection of Septic Tank Baffles for Defects – Septic Tank Baffles are inspected for defects. Unless the baffles at the septic tank outlet are broken or missing, or if a new replacement “tee” has been placed, you may be certain that sewage has been forced into the drainfield or absorption system, shortening the system’s future life by expediting soil clogging there.

  1. Chemicals, detergents, a poor concrete mix, water running over the top of the baffles, and inappropriate pumping practices may all cause concrete septic tank baffles to deteriorate and eventually break down.
  2. Maintenance of the Septic System on an ongoing basis If you live in a rural region, it is likely that you have a septic system rather than a sewer connection to your home.
  3. Make advantage of these suggestions to maintain a clean and trouble-free septic system.
  4. Landscape, roof gutters, and foundation drains should all be designed such that excess water is channeled away from the septic drainfield and away from the house.
  5. Check for leaks in faucets and toilets, and repair them if they are found.
  6. Reduce the amount of water used for little loads of washing.
  7. When flushing the toilet, use a displacer to cut down on the quantity of water used.

Trees with particularly vigorous roots, such as willows, should be planted even further away from the irrigation system than usual.

They’ll block your septic tank in a shorter period of time than you would expect.

Use Garbage Disposals Cautionfully Using a garbage disposal can increase the quantity of particles that enters a septic tank by twofold.

A high-quality garbage disposal that grinds food into little bits makes it easier for the digestive system to process.

Dishwashers and laundry should be cleaned with liquid cleansers whenever possible.

No Grease Down the Drain Grease can block the septic drainfield, making it hard for the earth to absorb liquids from the surrounding environment.

Keep Hazardous Chemicals to a minimum.

Make sure they are appropriately disposed of.

It is not permissible to drive over the drainfield, construct a structure on top of it, or cover it with asphalt or concrete.

Maintain your vehicle on a regular basis.

The majority of experts recommend that a household of four with a 1,000-gallon septic tank have the tank drained after three to five years of full-time use.

Always call a professional to open a septic tank for you.

A Septic Tank Design may be found at

This is often caused by the ground’s inability to absorb additional water as a result of its porousness getting clogged with extra particles, greases, and other contaminants being permitted to enter the absorption field during the construction process.

Installing a separate “clear effluent” tank to allow the septic tank effluent to go to the secondary tank, as well as installing a lift pump in the secondary tank to transfer the effluent to an absorption field that is now at a higher height, is required.

According to current design guidelines, the absorption field should be no more than 2 feet deep in order to take advantage of both percolation and evaporation of the effluent.

It is still possible to utilize the original septic tank for sewage digestion if it is in good working order, although it is not recommended.

It becomes necessary to do extra maintenance on the lift pump in the secondary tank. Page 4 of the document For more information about septic systems, please visit our website.

Call toll-free at 800-624-8301 or 304-293-4191, or visit The Environmental Protection Agency’s webpage on water efficiency is Page 5 of the document

Maine Septic and Pumping – Lewiston Maine

A baffle is located at the inflow and exit of a septic tank. Typically, these baffles are formed of concrete and are included into the tank’s overall design. When the intake baffle is in place, the flow of liquid entering the tank is slowed down, and turbulence is reduced, enabling particles to settle to the bottom of the tank. Using the outlet baffle, you may aid to keep solids in the tank and prevent them from exiting the tank and making their way to your absorption area. A tank that does not have an output baffle might reduce the longetivity of your septic system and lead it to collapse sooner than expected.

What Happens Without an Outlet Baffle?

Using the outlet baffle, you may aid to keep solids in the tank and prevent them from exiting the tank and making their way to your absorption area. Solids escaping from the absorption region might form a coating in the absorption area. The coating seals the region, limiting the absorption of liquids and the breakdown of solids caused by bacterial development in the coating area.

Simple Procedure to Replace!

Using a new plastic sanitary tee, Maine SepticPumping may repair your outlet baffle and restore proper operation to your system. The replacement will aid in the retention of solids and will assist to restore protection to the absorption region.

4 Septic System Parts That Need Professional Maintenance

You’ve probably heard that your septic tank has to be pumped out on a regular basis, but if you’re like many homeowners, you might be a little confused about how to go about it. There’s a lot more to septic tank care than merely emptying the tank of sewage every few days. Here are five components of the system that require expert maintenance, along with an explanation of why they do.

1. The Baffles

Your septic tank is equipped with two baffles, which must be examined on a regular basis to ensure proper operation. Due to the fact that baffles are susceptible to not only blockages but also erosion and crumbling (if they are made of concrete) or corrosion (if they are made of metal), they should be replaced whenever possible. The gases that build up inside the septic tank might react with the concrete, causing it to weaken and disintegrate over time. It is possible that sediments from the tank will make their way into the leach field and cause all sorts of issues.

The entrance baffle is destroyed, however, and the entering wastewater might produce splashing and diminish the effectiveness of the separation process that takes place in the tank.

2. The Filter

It is possible that a septic filter is not present in every septic system, particularly if the system is older. However, if you don’t already have one, you should consider getting one since it may help you extend the life of your leach field, which can cost tens of thousands of dollars to replace if it is damaged.

Once it has been installed, the filter must be examined and cleaned on a regular basis. In addition to checking and cleaning the filter for you at each pumping visit, your septic care specialist can make sure it hasn’t gotten compromised.

3. The Tank

Pumping the tank is the component of septic care that you will most likely hear about the most frequently. Even while it may appear like septic businesses are always pressing you to get your tank drained, they are doing it for a very good reason. Many homeowners have their tanks pumped out only sometimes (or worse, never), which can result in catastrophic complications. The leach field will become clogged if the tank is overfilled with solid waste. If the tank is overfilled with solid waste, some solid waste and scum will ultimately find their way to the leach field and muck things up.

Occasionally, homeowners will need to have their tanks pumped out because the system is beginning to malfunction.

As a result, don’t anticipate a septic pump-out to resolve any current issues.

4. The Sewer Line

Although your sewage line does not require frequent pumping like a septic tank, it does require regular video line inspections and cleanings to ensure that it is in good working order. During an inspection, problems such as tree roots in the lines or partial obstructions can be identified, and your septic experts can address these issues before they create sewage backups into your house. When a problem emerges, many homeowners just wait until it becomes an issue before having their drains and sewage lines examined.

There may be some disagreement among experts on the best course of action, but the most popular advise is to have your sewage line examined and/or cleaned out every one to two years.

It is not necessary to schedule separate maintenance visits for each component, though.

If you reside in the Dothan region, we would be delighted to assist you with any septic system services that you may want.

Allen Turner Septic Tank Service can provide you with further information on how we can assist you with your septic system.

We can provide services for not just cleaning and maintenance, but also for any repairs that your septic system or sewer line may require.

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