- Insert the pipeinto the inlet opening of the tankuntil the pipesticks in about 2 inches. Locate the pipefar enough into the tankthat incoming waste water does not follow the tankwall down but free-falls out of the pipe. The pipemust be at least 6 inches from the baffle to prevent clogs from forming. Click to see full answer.
What kind of pipe do you use from house to septic tank?
Laying Out a Septic-Tank Disposal System. The septic tank should be positioned at least 50 feet from the house proper. ABS or PVC plastic or cast iron pipe can be used to connect the tank to the house drainage system.
How deep do you bury a plastic septic tank?
Whatever the case may be, knowing the depth of your septic tank can be a difficult thing given the circumstances, especially if you don’t know where the lids are. The general rule of thumb is that most septic tanks can be buried anywhere from four inches to four feet underground.
How does a plastic septic tank work?
Septic tanks work by allowing waste to separate into three layers: solids, effluent and scum (see illustration above). The solids settle to the bottom, where microorganisms decompose them. The middle layer of effluent exits the tank and travels through underground perforated pipes into the drainage field.
Can you have a septic tank without a leach field?
The waste from most septic tanks flows to a soakaway system or a drainage field. If your septic tank doesn’t have a drainage field or soakaway system, the waste water will instead flow through a sealed pipe and empty straight into a ditch or a local water course.
How many feet of leach line do I need?
REQUIRED SEPTIC TANK SIZE IN GAL. * A minimum of 150 square feet of trench bottom area is required. ** # gal X soil type multiplier 100 4.285 Note: Maximum length of any leach line is 100 feet. If more than 100 feet is required, then a distribution box with multiple lines will be needed.
How far down are leach lines?
A typical drainfield trench is 18 to 30 inches in depth, with a maximum soil cover over the disposal field of 36 inches.
How far out do leach lines go?
Common guidelines require at least 50′ clearance distance between a well and a septic system tank or 150′ between a well and a septic drainfield or leaching bed but you will see that different authorities may recommend different distances. Local soil and rock conditions can make these “rules of thumb” unreliable.
What size pipe connects to septic tank?
Four-inch pipe is standard, and it should extend far enough under the house to connect with the main soil stack, which is a 3-inch pipe that extends vertically past the main bathroom and through the roof.
What kind of pipe do you use for a leach field?
Leach pipes are usually made of perforated PVC pipe. To encourage the final product to trickle into the soil, the pipes are bedded in gravel and sand or sometimes are covered with plastic septic chambers.
Can you bury a leach field?
Drain fields are made by laying a series of perforated pipes into a gravel bed. Generally, a finished bed contains 12 inches of gravel below the pipe and another 2 inches on top. The field is then backfilled with 18 to 30 inches of soil to finish the bed and bring it even with the surrounding ground.
Why the inlet pipe in the septic tank is higher than the outlet pipe?
Level the septic tank: The septic tank inlet tee is designed to be higher than the septic tank outlet tee. This helps assure that incoming sewage clears the baffle and enters the tank correctly, while outgoing effluent does not carry along floating solids, scum, or grease (which would clog the drainfield).
Should septic tank lids be buried?
In most cases, all components of the septic tank including the lid are buried between 4 inches and 4 feet underground. Unless the septic tank has special risers that position the lid at ground level, you’ll have to dig for it.
How to Connect Pipes to a Septic Tank
Septic tanks are connected to dwellings by four-inch pipes. Image courtesy of dit26978/iStock/Getty Images. Most contemporary septic tanks, whether constructed of concrete or plastic, are divided into two compartments by an internal baffle and equipped with an intake and output port. In most cases, when you first install the tank, each port has a preinstalled 4-inch sanitary tee fitting. You connect the waste line from the building to the inlet fitting and the drain line to the outlet fitting either by gluing it or by using a mechanical flexible coupling to connect the two lines (often referred to as aFernco coupling).
Septic tanks used to have only one chamber in the olden days.
The scum layer contains greases, oils, and other lighter-than-water contaminants that could clog the soil.
Whatever your feelings about the necessity of the tees, they serve as an insurance policy against the failure of the septic tank baffles, and it is smart to have them installed.
In order to keep debris out of the pipes, some plumbers put grates on the top portions of tees.
How to Install Septic Tees
The installation of the tees on the septic tank must be done from the inside of the tank if the tees do not come with the tank. A 4-inch tee is usually tightly secured by predrilled or, in the case of concrete tanks, preformed holes in the tank’s inlet and outlet holes. A bead of butyl or silicone caulk around the perimeter of the tee on both sides of the tank will suffice in most cases, but it’s not a bad idea to use some in case you do need adhesive. The top of the tee should have a short length of pipe attached to extend the opening above the scum layer in the tank, while the bottom of the tee must extend below the scum layer or about 2 feet below the tee.
Connecting Inlet and Outlet Pipes
The waste and drain pumps are located in trenches that slope toward and away from the tank, respectively, with a slope ranging between 2 and 10 percent. For a modest slope, it’s fine to glue the pipes straight to the tee; but, if the slope is steep, you need glue a 22 1/2-degree bend onto the tee to make the glue connection completely waterproof. If necessary, the bend can be configured such that it faces upward on the input side and downward on the outflow side. Despite the fact that the pipes fit firmly in the fittings, it is necessary to glue them together.
If you don’t, the tee may become disconnected and fall into the tank, necessitating the need of expert services to repair. A septic tank may be deadly, and falling into one or even peering into one too closely can be fatal. Never attempt to do this repair yourself.
7 Steps to a New Plastic Septic System
Plastic septic tanks are only one important component of a home’s wastewater management system. There are several other components as well. When you are preparing for your plastic septic tank installation, it is critical to recognize and remember that there are several critical steps to take when installing a new septic system, and if you do not complete each of them carefully, you may be faced with some very expensive consequences down the road.
Step 1: Design Your System
The first step is to take your time and properly design your complete system. There is some critical information that you will need to investigate and get in order to complete this task. You will require a site survey to assist you in determining the borders of your land so that your septic system can be installed in accordance with local restrictions about how near to your neighbor’s property wastewater may be discharged underground. The following are the most crucial pieces of information to look for during the site survey:
- In addition to the quantity of space available, the land’s topography should be considered as well as the purpose and estimated usage of water based on the size of your home, so you know how much water your septic system will have to treat on a regular basis the position of any wells on your property or on the properties of your neighbors
In addition, you will need to conduct a percolation test on the soils in the region where your plastic septic tank installation will take place. Performing this test is critical because it will determine whether or not the ground is suitable for a plastic septic tank, as well as what type of structural precautions you will need to take to ensure that the plastic septic tank does not fracture or crack under the pressure exerted by the surrounding ground. The following parameters will be measured by the soil test:
- The kind of soil and the composition of the soil (sand, clay, rock, etc.)
- Layering (in which different soil types are found at different depths)
- The capacity of the earth to drain and filter effluent
Once you have completed these tests, you will have the information necessary to build a septic system that is appropriate for your home.
Step 2: Seek Permits
Following the completion of these tests, you will have the knowledge necessary to build a septic system that is appropriate for your house.
Step 3: Gather Equipment
Bring together all of the items that will be needed for your plastic septic tank installation. The following is a list of the equipment and parts that you will require:
- Backhoe – this is by far the most effective method of digging the holes that will be required to install your septic system in the earth. In order to conduct some more accurate digging in the holes you dig with your backhoe, you’ll need a shovel. In order to assure exact measurements for digging, a laser transit surveying equipment is used. A grade pole is a surveying equipment that is used to accurately measure the depth of a hole while digging. (1) – 4′′ Sch. 40 PVC pipe – this is the input pipe from your house, and it may also require fittings
- And (2) – 4′′ Sch. 40 PVC pipe – this is the output pipe from your home, and it may also require fittings
- (1) – 4′′ perforated pipe in accordance with ASTM D2729 – output pipe for dispersing effluent into draining field
- (1) – 4′′ASTM D3034 pipe with suitable fittings
- (2) – 4′′ASTM D3034 pipe with appropriate fittings
- – 4′′ Sch. 40 vent caps and test caps – to disperse gas buildup resulting from the degradation of waste in the septic tank
- – 4′′ Sch. 40 test caps – to ensure that the tank is functioning properly. To join PVC pipes together, PVC primer and PVC adhesive are used. Cutting PVC pipe to the required length requires the use of a manual hand saw or an electric hand saw. The usage of a hammer drill and bits is required if you need to drill through the wall of your house in order to install the septic system. If you drill a hole through a PVC pipe, you may use hydraulic cement to seal the gap between the pipe and the wall of your home. The stone should be 1 12 inches in thickness and should be put below your septic system to guarantee proper drainage. Small and big tape measures – you will need at least 100 feet of tape, therefore it may be beneficial to have both a small and a large tape measure on hand
- Septic fabric — You will need roughly 3 feet of fabric cut from a roll. Plastic septic tank and risers – check with your local rules to ensure that plastic septic tanks are permitted. Silicone caulk is used to seal the risers of the stairwell. If a septic filter is necessary, it should be installed. Check out the plumbing codes in your area. Distribution box made of plastic – this is utilized when running a system with many laterals to the draining field.
Step 4: Install Intake Pipe
Choose one of the sides of your home or structure from which you want the septic tank to take in waste water for treatment. It is necessary to dig down at least 2 feet and either make a hole in the wall or dig further into the footing of the home or structure at that location. If you have a gravity-fed system, you should design the flow such that it flows downhill, rather than uphill, because gravity-fed systems do not require mechanical techniques to transport waste from a tank to a drain field.
- Install the 4 inch Sch.
- It has to be level at the wall and slope down about 1/8 inch per foot toward the plastic septic tank, according to the manufacturer’s specifications.
- In the event that you swap pipes, make certain that you utilize the proper adaptor while connecting it to the plastic septic tank.
- If you decide to drill a hole in the wall, you must use hydraulic cement to seal the area around the hole, both on the inside of the building and on the outside as well as the inside.
If the pitch is excessively steep, the wastewater will flow too quickly through the system, causing the particles to become caught in the pipe. It is also possible that you will have insufficient space left to adequately drain the effluent into the draining field.
Step 5: Install Plastic Septic Tank
Excavate a huge hole deep enough to accommodate your plastic septic tank below the surface of the ground. Make use of your laser transit to identify the top of the intake pipe and measure the distance between the top of the intake pipe and the bottom of the tank with your tape measure. In order to get the depth you want, double that amount by 1 12 inches and add it to the measurement taken from your laser transit to your grade pole. Continue digging until you reach the desired depth. Afterwards, you must dig out your draining field (also known as a leach field) in accordance with the parameters of your survey results as well as any applicable local restrictions.
Step 6: Install Draining Field
Generally, a 12 inch coating of washed drain rock will be required surrounding the pipe in order to keep it stable while it is transporting stuff. According to your local health criteria, the size of the gravel and the depth of this layer will be determined. If you are placing perforated pipe in a gravity septic system drain field, keep in mind that the pipe has no slope on either end and is capped on both ends.
Step 7: Inspection and Filling In
Following the permission of your local health inspector, it is time to cover everything with dirt and finish the job. To cover your cleaned drain rock before covering it with soil, you will most likely need a specific cloth that functions as a filter, untreated construction paper, or four inches of straw to cover the drainage region.
Bonus for Pump Plastic Septic Tank Installations:
If you have a pumped plastic septic tank installation, there will only be a few variations in the process you will go through. Before you can connect your plastic septic tank to your draining field, you must first construct a pump chamber in your home. The pump chamber is constructed in a manner similar to that of the septic tank, but the electrical aspects of the pump will necessitate the services of a certified electrician to ensure that you are in compliance with state standards. Those who live in areas with a lot of groundwater may find that their pump chamber is mostly empty most of the time, and others may find that they need to add more weight to the floatation mechanism that switches the pump on and off.
Not until you have obtained your permits and asked for assistance from local septic specialists at the first indication of problems, not after you have put everything together, filled it in, and discovered evidence of sewage leakage when you first turn on the water, should you begin digging.
If any part of this instruction seemed unfamiliar to you, there’s no shame in asking for clarification! Early involvement with the specialists will save you a great deal of time, money, and the frustration of having to repair a septic system that was badly constructed.
How to Construct a Small Septic System
Documentation Download Documentation Download Documentation There are two main sections to most private septic systems: the holding and digesting tanks, and the dispersion field or leach field. As the liquid waste in the first holding tank fills up, it will be transferred to the second holding tank. Once the second tank is completely filled with liquid, the liquid will dissipate into the earth underneath it. The system displayed here is a modest system that is intended for limited use by two persons who do not need to do laundry.
- When compared to a conventional house septic system, this system employs two 55 US gallon (210 L) drums, rather than the 1,000–2,000 US gallon (3,800–7,600 L) tanks that are utilized in a standard home septic system.
- Property owners considering installing a system similar to this one should be advised that this system would fail inspections by any public health department in the United States, and that the owner may be liable to a fine if the system was discovered in operation by a health official.
- Toilets that conserve water nowadays utilize less than two litres of water every flush.
- It might be a lifeline for those who live in areas where septic treatment is not available.
Part 1 of 3: Cutting the Tanks
- 1Cut a hole in the center of the top of each drum that is the same size as the outer measurement of the toilet flange. Take the outside diameter of the toilet flange that you’re using and multiply it by two. Place the hole close to the edge of the drum so that you may simply connect them to pipes in the near future. Cut the drums using a saber saw to make them more manageable. 2 Each hole should be capped with a 4 in (10 cm) toilet flange. Push the flanges into the top of each tank until they are flush with the surface. Make sure the flanges are securely fastened to the tanks so they don’t shift or move after you’ve placed them. 3 Cut a hole in the first drum that is 4 in (10 cm) in diameter on the opposite side of the drum from the hole in the top. Placing the hole approximately 4–5 inches (10–13 cm) below the top of the drum and ensuring that it lines up with the hole on the top of the tank are the most important steps. 4 Make a hole in the wall with a saber saw or a hole saw. Cut two holes in the side of the drum at 45-degree angles to the center of the hole on the top, one on each side of the drum. The center line is the line that runs through the middle of the hole on the top of the drum. Make 45-degree angles from either side of the centerline, then mark them on the second drum using a permanent marker. Make your holes in the barrel by cutting through the side with a saber or a hole saw.
Part 2 of 3: Placing the Tanks Underground
- 1 Dig a trench that is 4 ft 26 ft 3 ft (1.22 m 7.92 m 0.91 m) in length and width. Excavator or shovel are both good options for digging a hole in the ground where you wish to put your tank. Continue excavating until the hole measures 4 feet (1.2 m) in width, 26 feet (7.9 m) in length, and 3 feet (0.91 m) in depth.
- 1 A hole of 4 feet 26 feet 3 feet (1.22 meters 7.92 meters 0.91 meters) should be dug. Make a hole in the ground where you want to put the tank, using a shovel or an excavator. Continue excavating until the hole measures 4 feet (1.2 m) in width, 26 feet (7.9 m) in length, and 3 feet (0.91 m) in depth
- 2Place the drum at the end of the trench, with one side hole drilled in it. When you place the drum on the floor, make sure it is level. Check to see sure the drum’s top is at least 4 inches (10 cm) below the surface of the water. 3 Dig a hole that is one foot (30 cm) deeper than the first to accommodate the positioning of the second drum in front of the first. In order to ensure a tight fit and prevent the drum from shifting, make your hole the same diameter as the drum you’re inserting in it. 4 The hole should be leveled with gravel until a 90-degree curve can be made to connect the top drum’s hole on one side to the toilet flange on the other. Check the alignment of the holes in the 90-degree bend between the two drums by dry fitting it between the two drums. If you need to improve the alignment of the pipe line, dig the hole a little deeper. 5 To make the bend, cut 31 2in (8.9 cm) pieces of ABS pipe and adhere them to the bend with epoxy or hot glue. With a hacksaw, cut the ABSpipe parts, also known as nipples. 6 Insert the pieces into the bend and hold them in place using PVC adhesive. Check the fit between the two drums to ensure that they are in alignment. Insert the end of the 21 2in (6.4 cm) nipple into the side hole of the first drum and tighten the nut. 7Glue the end of the 31 2in (8.9 cm) nipple into the toilet flange on the second tank, making sure that the nipple on the other end aligns with the hole on the top of the second drum. To hold the bent in place, apply PVC adhesive to the inside of the curve. Don’t be concerned about the link to the first drum just yet
- You’ll make that connection later. 8. Glue a Y-bend to a 31 2in (8.9 cm) nipple, and then bend the angled piece of the Y-bend at a 45-degree angle. Using your PVC adhesive, attach a nipple to the end of the Y-bend and let it dry. Make sure to align the angled pipe on the Y-bend so that it intersects with the incoming waste line and glue it into the toilet flange
- 9 21 2in (6.4 cm) nipples are cut and glued to one end of the 45-degree bends at the bottom of the lower drum, and they are then inserted into the side of the lower drum. The 45-degree bends’ ends should be perpendicular to the bottom of the trench, so that they may be pointed upward.
Part 3 of 3: Connecting the Drain Pipes
- Put a stake into the ground and level it with the bottom of each of the 45-degree bends. 2Put a stake into the ground and level it with the top of the 45-degree bends. It doesn’t matter what sort of stakes you use since they all work. Use a mallet or hammer to pound the stakes into the ground. Attach a one-inch-wide block to the end of a four-foot-long (1.2-meter-long) level using duct tape. This will assist you in ensuring that you create sloped drain pipes so that your tanks can empty
- 3Place another stake approximately 37 8ft (1.2 m) down the trench from the first one
- 4Place another stake approximately 37 8ft (1.2 m) down the trench from the first one
- 5Place another stake approximately 37 8ft (1.2 m) down the trench from the first one. Drive the stake down until it is the same height as the first one using your hammer or mallet
- 4 Place the end of the level without the block on the first stake and the block on the second stake to complete the level without the block. Continue to pound the second stake into the ground until the level is balanced. 1 inch (2.5 cm) lower than the previous post, or 1 inch (0.64 cm) lower per 1 foot (30 cm)
- 5Repeat this method until you have stakes running the whole length of the trench
- Continue to place stakes down the rest of the trench every 37 8feet (1.2 m) from the last one, ensuring that the stakes slope away from the drums
- 6Place gravel in the trench until the top of the gravel is level with the top of the stakes
- 7Place gravel in the trench until the top of the gravel is level with the top of the stakes The gravel will now slope away from the drums at a rate of 1 4 inch (0.64 cm) per 1 foot (30 cm) of horizontal distance
- 7Place 20 ft (6.1 m) of perforated drain pipe into each hole on the second drum
- 8Place 20 ft (6.1 m) of perforated drain pipe into each hole on the third drum
- 9Place 20 ft (6.1 m) of perforated drain pipe into each hole on the fourth drum
- 10P Insert the ends of the drain pipes into the 45-degree bends on the lower drum to complete the installation. 9Make certain that the perforations in the pipes are facing down so that liquids may soak back into the earth
- 8checking the pipes with a level to ensure that the 1 4in (0.64 cm) slope is consistent throughout the length of the pipe. The slope may be adjusted by adding or withdrawing gravel from beneath the pipe. 9Bend the bottom and top drums at 45 degrees and 90 degrees, respectively, to seal them. For the greatest seal possible on your drain pipes, use a two-part epoxy or silicone caulk. For this purpose, consider utilizing flex pipe, which will yield a little bit if the ground changes. Tenth, fill the lower drum halfway with water to keep it from collapsing under the weight of all the gravel. Place the remaining gravel over the trench and into the bottom drum, covering it completely. 11Lay landscape fabric over the top of the gravel. As a result, the dirt will not be able to seep into the gravel and you will be able to keep proper drainage on your tanks
- 12Fill the remaining trench area with soil, compacting it to the original grade. When you have finished filling up the area with your dirt, check to see that the ground is level. 13Fill the upper drum with water, leaving the top pipe from the first tank exposed so that you can readily reach the tanks if you need to drain them later. 14Fill the lower drum with water. Fill the top drum with water and pour it directly down the exposed pipes on the bottom drum. Pour more water into the drum until it is completely filled, and then screw on the lid to shut it.
Community Q A
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- Question What is considered a low level of use? Low consumption is defined as less than 125 gallons per day. Question Was the ‘y’ elbow on the first tank’s tank for any particular reason? Is it left open or sealed when it has been completed? Isn’t it going to stink if it’s left open? The clean out requires a threaded cap or plug, which is provided. Question What kind of water do you use to fill it? “Fill” is the most important term here. Continue to fill the drum with water until the level does not rise any more
- Question Suppose I neglected to attach a slip coupler to the perforated pipe and only had 10 feet of it. Is it still possible to use this? Yes, however you will need to raise the depth of the field in order to get the same cubic feet of capacity
- Nevertheless Question What is the best way to find out if something is legal in my state? This is a quick and easy approach that is unlikely to be appropriate for long-term usage in the majority of states. It is possible that the property owner and/or the installation will be penalized if this is uncovered. Question Is it possible to utilize two or three 275-gallon water totes instead, or a water tote and barrel combination? It doesn’t matter either direction you go. It’s best to utilize a single tote and a barrel as a digestion tank and a distribution box if you have only one tote. Question What is the purpose of filling the higher barrel with water? You fill the top barrel with water so that when sewage waste is introduced into the barrel, it flows into a sufficient amount of water to initiate the anaerobic digestion process. Question What is the best way to clean up this system? If there is enough bacteria in it, it will clean itself with minimal effort. If it starts to fill up, you may call a septic service to have it emptied
- If it doesn’t, you can do it yourself. Question What is the correct grade slope of the drain field for every ten feet of length of the drain field? It is possible for the field’s bottom to be level. When running away from the drums, the pipe system should be sloped at 2 percent, or 2.5 inches every 10 feet. Question Is it possible for this system to freeze in the winter? And might I use antifreeze in the mix as well? Antifreeze will destroy the beneficial bacteria that are required for the process to function properly. The process is biological, and it will generate some of its own heat as part of the process. It’s always possible to dig a little deeper to gain a little extra insulation above it.
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- The horizontal side of the “Y” links to the waste source, and it should be fitted with a connector that is compatible with the source supply line
- Instead of using a 90° elbow, you should join two of them together to produce a U-shaped connection. In this manner, the end that is in the first barrel will be pointed towards the bottom of the tank, rather than the top. This should be reinforced with a short segment of straight pipe that is several inches deeper towards the bottom. Solids either float or sink depending on their density. They don’t seem to congregate in the middle. As a result, only the broken down liquid waste makes it to the second tank, and the solids are never seen again. The same procedure should be followed for each of the drainage pipes that originate from the second barrel. Just to be completely certain that no solids find their way into the global drain field, the waste is dumped into the first tank, with the solids settling to the bottom of the first tank. Whenever the liquid level exceeds the outfall to the second tank, it is drained into the tank below it. If there are any solids present, they will sink to the bottom. Whenever the liquid from the second tank reaches one of the two outfalls, it is transported to the gravel leaching field for dispersion. Over time, the vast majority of the solids will liquefy and disperse. Solids may accumulate at the top of the tank after many years, necessitating the removal of the solids. Thirty percent of the waste is absorbed into the earth, with the remaining seventy percent being dissipated by sunshine. It is important not to compress the soil since this would interfere with the evaporation process
- The vertical side of the “Y” will be used to pump out the tank after it is entirely filled with solids
- The depth of the trench should be proportional to the depth of the waste source line. If the line is deeper or higher than the one depicted, you will need to dig the trench deeper or shallower to suit the new line depth or height. It’s not that difficult to find out. In the event that you have a septic system that is too shallow, it may be more susceptible to damage. After a period, you may discover that the ground has sunk below the trench’s location. Fill it in with extra dirt and compact it
- It is assumed that you are familiar with working with ABS plastic pipe. In addition, you must have the necessary tools to dig the trench (or be ready to put in a lot of effort).
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- This is a system with a relatively limited capacity. This is not intended to suit the demands of a big family or group of people. It is intended for use with a modest travel trailer and two individuals. In order to extend the life of this little septic system, it is recommended that you do not place anything else in it but water, trash, and toilet paper. You may have to pump the upper drum once or twice a year if you don’t do so. During the course of five years, the system depicted here will only require pumping twice. Do not drive through the area where the drums are located. When establishing a septic system, make sure to adhere to all applicable municipal regulations. It is against the law to establish a septic system without first obtaining a permission. In the permission, you can find information on the local regulations for installing a septic system. You should avoid situating a septic system too close to trees since tree roots will grow into your lines, block them, and eventually cause damage to your system.
Things You’ll Need
- 3/4 or 1 1/2 crushed rock or blue metal
- 80 square feet (7.4 m 2) of landscaping fabric
- 9 cubic yards (6.9 m3) of 3/4 or 1 1/2 crushed rock or blue metal 55 US gal (210 L) plastic drums
- 10 feet (3.0 m) of ABS plastic pipe with a diameter of 4 in (10 cm)
- 4 in (10 cm) ABS 90-degree bend
- 4 in (10 cm) ABS Y-bend
- 3 ABS 45-degree bends with sizes of 4 in (10 cm)
- 2 55 US gal (210 L) plastic drums A total of 40 feet (12 meters) of 4 inch (10 cm) perforated drain pipe
- Two 4 inch (10 cm) diameter drain pipe couplers
- And two toilet flanges with 4 inch (10 cm) diameters are included. PVC glue, two-part epoxy or silicone sealant, a level, and ten wood stakes are all required. 1 in (2.5 cm) thick wood block
- Duct tape
- 4 in (10 cm) ABS detachable cap
- 1 in (2.5 cm) thick wood block
About This Article
wikiHow Staff Writer contributed to this article. This article was written in part by members of the wikiHow Staff. Our highly skilled staff of editors and researchers checks articles for correctness and completeness before publishing them. The work of our editorial staff is regularly monitored by wikiHow’sContent Management Team to ensure that each article is supported by reliable research and fulfills our high quality standards. A total of 2,323,265 people have looked at this article. Co-authors:53 The most recent update was made on January 15, 2022.
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- What is a septic system and how does it work? What is the operation of a septic tank? Where to look for a septic tank
- What does an inspector look for
- What does an inspector not look for How often should a septic tank be pumped
- A sewage treatment process, also known as wastewater treatment process
Septic tanks are an essential part of every home’s plumbing system. They are a self-contained, underground waste water treatment system that treats and disposes of the waste water generated by a residence. Septic tanks work by storing waste water in the tank for an extended period of time, allowing particles and liquids to separate. They are not intricate designs, and they are very efficient and not difficult to maintain, however they should be inspected and pumped on a regular basis to ensure proper operation.
- Solids typically settle in a normal 1,000-gallon tank in roughly two days, while solids will collect in the tank over time.
- Despite the fact that household activities and water use vary widely, as does the size of septic tanks, frequent checks should be undertaken to ensure that the tank is running as effectively as possible.
- All residences are equipped with a septic system, which is a self-contained waste water treatment system that is comprised of a house sewer drain, a septic tank, a distribution box, and an underground drainage field.
- They are buried below, away from the home, and in a location where cars cannot drive over them.
- Waste water enters the septic tank through the input pipe at one end and exits the tank through the outlet pipe at the other end, which are both typically constructed of sturdy plastic and connected together.
- Solids are responsible for the formation of the sludge layer.
- This picture depicts the sewage lines that travel from the bathrooms and kitchen to the septic tank in your home.
Solids sink to the bottom of the tank and are attacked by bacteria, resulting in the production of methane and other toxic gases as a by-product.
This prevents the gases from leaking back into your home.
The waste water from your home enters the septic tank and displaces the water already present.
The effluent waste water is subsequently discharged to the drain field through the output pipe.
An overhead view of a house, septic tank, distribution box, and drain field is shown in the figure below: Drained fields have pipes with a diameter of around 4 inches (10 cm) that are buried underground in trenches that are 4 to 6 feet (1.5 m) deep and 2 feet (0.6 m) wide.
The size of the drain field is determined by the soil characteristics, with a hard clay ground necessitating a significantly bigger drain field.
The entire system is a passive system that operates only on gravity, with waste water from your home flowing down to the tank and then out to the drainage field.
You’ll need a probe if you don’t have one of these.
The transmitter eventually ends placed in the septic tank and is retrieved once the tank is opened up. As soon as you’ve located the tank, you should try to remove it from the ground before the inspector comes.
- Solids Accumulation is being checked for. The inspector’s job is to identify whether or not there has been an excessive accumulation of solids in the tank. A “Sludge Judge” or anything along those lines is a tool that an inspector use. This particular product is a transparent, plastic hollow pole with a stopper at one end and markings at 1-foot intervals. It is available in a variety of colors. The inspector puts the device into the tank’s bottom so that wastewater and solids may enter it, providing him with a technique of detecting the amounts of solids and liquids in the tank. According to the guidelines, the maximum amount of solids in a septic tank should not exceed one-third of the liquid depth. It is necessary to pump the tank out immediately if the solids buildup exceeds this limit.
- Watertightness Septic tanks are composed of a variety of materials, including concrete, fiberglass, and even plastic. It is critical that they are waterproof in order to prevent groundwater pollution and to ensure that groundwater does not enter the tank, which might cause it to overfill. The tank must be drained out before it can be visually evaluated to determine whether or not it is waterproof.
- Leaks and infiltration are two types of leaks. In addition to pumping the tank to ensure that it is waterproof, the inspector examines the baffles or tees on the tank. These items help to reduce the flow of wastewater into the septic tank, ensuring that solids have a peaceful environment in which to settle. To function successfully, these goods must be properly linked to the intake and output pipes, which are often constructed of polyethylene. A baffle can be made of concrete, fiberglass, or plastic, depending on the material that was used to construct the septic system. If a concrete baffle has corroded or broken, a tee is installed in the tank to prevent further corrosion. Tees, like the inlet and outlet pipes, are constructed of plastic. After the tank has been pumped, the inspector examines the input and exit lines for signs of leakage. If water is flowing into the tank, it is probable that there is a plumbing leak in the home or that there is a problem with the supply pipe. If water is draining backwards from the exit pipe, it is possible that the drainage field is obstructed.
- The Effluent Filter is a device that filters wastewater. If you utilize effluent filters, you may significantly reduce the amount of particles in your wastewater and boost the efficiency and life of your septic system. In the outlet tee on the outlet side of the tank, these filters should be maintained by drawing them out and flushing the contents back into the septic tank
- However, this is not always possible.
- The Effluent Filter is a piece of equipment that collects waste water. If you employ effluent filters, you may significantly reduce the amount of particles in your wastewater and extend the life of your septic system by increasing its efficiency and efficiency. It is recommended that these filters be maintained by drawing them out and flushing the contents back into the septic tank. These filters are located on the outlet side of the tanks, in the output tee
Have your septic tank examined on a regular basis. It is recommended that you pump your tank every 3-5 years by the Florida Department of Health. Despite the fact that many homeowners overlook this vital step in their usual house care routines, it is often included as part of a property transfer inspection package. By having your septic tank tested on a regular basis, you may avoid having unwelcome and unpleasant problems with your septic system in the future. Water is the most valuable resource we have.
Sewage treatment is the same as wastewater treatment.
Wastewater is made up of human waste, chemicals, and soaps, all of which come from our toilets, sinks, washing machines, showers, and other domestic and commercial plumbing.
The failure to treat wastewater would gravely jeopardize human health, resulting in infectious illnesses, cancer, and birth deformities, as well as having a negative impact on our food supply.
- Fisheries Our seas, rivers, and lakes are dependent on the presence of fish and vegetation. The absence of clean water has the potential to cause considerable disruption to these ecosystems, as well as significant harm to the fishing business and recreational fishing activities.
- Habitats for WildlifeAquatic life is dependent on clean beaches, marshes, and shorelines to survive. In the absence of treatment, untreated wastewater would degrade these critically essential habitats for migrating birds, who rely on these places for feeding and resting, as well as imperil nesting habits.
- Recreation and the Enhancement of One’s Quality of Life Every summer, millions of people rush to beaches and lakes, with numerous rural towns reliant on this tourism for their very survival to support their families. Coastal locations and lake properties are incredibly appealing places to visit, live, and work, and they provide a variety of leisure opportunities such as boating, swimming, fishing, and picnics
- Nevertheless, they are not without their drawbacks.
- Concerns about one’s health Because so many of us live in close proximity to water, it is impossible to overstate the necessity of treating wastewater and maintaining a safe drinking water supply. Untreated wastewater contains pathogens that are dangerous to human health.
- Our Environment and the Pollutants in Our Wastewater It is possible that the effects on human health and the environment will be catastrophic if wastewater is not properly handled. As a result, there will be severe ramifications for ecosystems, aquatic and animal populations as well as beaches, marshes, and recreational water activities, and the seafood sector would face significant constraints. It also has the potential to poison our drinking water. Environment Canada has provided the following instances of wastewater contaminants and their detrimental effects on ecosystems and human health:
- Wastewater Pollutants and Our Environmental Situation The consequences for human health and the environment might be devastating if wastewater is not properly handled. As a result, there will be huge ramifications for ecosystems, aquatic and animal populations as well as beaches, marshes, and recreational water activities, and the seafood sector would be subject to severe limitations. Also, it has the potential to poison our potable water supply. Following are some instances of wastewater contaminants and their detrimental effects on ecosystems and human health provided by Environment Canada:
Why Should Wastewater Be Treated? The treatment of wastewater is critical to the preservation of human health and a wide range of businesses, as well as the protection of our treasured wildlife and aquatic populations from the destructive effects of wastewater contaminants. Designed to remove suspended particles from wastewater before it is discharged back into the environment, wastewater treatment removes suspended solids from wastewater. Without treatment, decomposing solids would diminish oxygen levels in the environment and damage plants and animals that live in or near bodies of freshwater.
Wastewater that has undergone “secondary treatment” can have up to 90 percent of the suspended particles removed.
SEPTIC 101- LET’S TALK TANKS & TRENCHES — JT’s SEPTIC
We want you to be informed about septic systems, so please read on! The initial step in education is to become familiar with the components of the system.
Tanks and trenches are the topics of discussion today. Please feel free to browse our website for further information, photographs, and advice, or to contact our office at any time for additional information about your system!
Traditionally installed septic systems are composed of two major components: the tank itself and a soil absorption system. Tanks are waterproof containers that can retain wastewater discharged from the home for up to 48 hours, providing enough time for the scum and sludge to settle out of the wastewater. It is the responsibility of the homeowner to ensure that the septic tank is properly maintained and that the effluent is not released into the environment. Septic systems are required for the treatment of sewage in regions where there is no connection to major sewage pipelines provided by the local government or private organizations.
“SEPTIC” REFERS TO THE ANAEROBIC BACTERIAL ENVIRONMENT THAT DEVELOPS IN THE TANK AND DECOMPOSES OR MINERALIZES THE WASTE THROWN INTO IT!
In most cases, a tank is made up of one or more concrete or plastic sections with capacities ranging between 1,000 and 2,000 gallons each. On one end, the tank is linked to the input sewage pipe, and on the other, the tank’s exit, it is connected to a septic drain field. In most cases, these sewage pipe connections are built with a plastic T-shaped pipe made of PVC plastic (with older tanks, the connection may be concrete). Tanks are often divided into two sections by manhole-like coverings that serve as access points.
Water enters the tank through the first chamber, where solids settle and scum float, allowing solids to settle and scum float.
Following its passage through the separating wall, the liquid component enters the second chamber, where it undergoes additional settling.
CONCRETE SEPTIC TANK:
The trench system is comprised of shallow, flat excavations that are typically 1-5 feet deep and 1-3 feet broad, with a maximum depth of 1 meter. The excavated space is often filled with a porous media, such as gravel, that is 6 inches or more in depth. The following step involves the placement in each trench of a layer of perforated distribution pipes, which is followed by a semi-permeable barrier (typically construction paper or straw), and lastly the system is filled with soil.
KNOW YOUR TERMS:
A three-step bacterial respiration process that happens in the absence of oxygen is referred to as anaerobic process. Effluent is defined as the cleared, partially treated liquid that exits a septic tank after it has been partially treated. Large particles have been separated using a variety of methods, including settling, flotation to coagulate in a grease and scum layer, and filtering. Effluent is discharged from the tank and into the absorption/treatment system, where it is further treated.
Septage is a combination of solid wastes, scum, sludge, and liquids that is pumped out of septic tanks and into the environment.
Sludge is solid waste that has accumulated at the bottom of a septic tank. Sludge is a kind of organic waste that is semi-solid. Sources:
8 Signs of Septic System Failure
A three-step bacterial respiration process that happens in the absence of oxygen is referred to as anaerobic respiration process. Effluent is defined as the cleared, partially treated liquid that exits a septic tank after it has been treated somewhat. Large particles have been separated using a variety of methods, including settling, flotation to coagulate in a grease and scum layer, and filtering, among other methods. Wastewater drains from the tank and onto an absorption/treatment system, where it is further processed for reuse.
It is composed of scum, sludge, and other solids.
It is the solid trash that has collected at the bottom of an untreated wastewater treatment system, known as sludge.
1. Septic System Backup
Everything that has to do with plumbing in your home is tied to your septic system. Sewage and wastewater will no longer be able to enter the tank if your septic system malfunctions or becomes overburdened. Instead, it will remain in the pipes until it begins to rise to the surface again. Sewage and wastewater back up into sinks, drains, and even into your toilet as a result of this condition. A clogged septic tank is the most obvious indicator of a failing system. You should contact a qualified plumber as soon as you discover this symptom to get it repaired.
2. Slow Drains
Everything in your home that has a plumbing connection is connected to your septic system. Sewage and wastewater will no longer be able to enter your tank if your septic system breaks or becomes overburdened. As a result, the water will remain in the pipes until it begins to flow again. Sewage and wastewater back up into sinks, drains, and even into your toilet as a result of this condition. There are several signs that your septic tank has failed, but this is the most noticeable. You should contact a qualified plumber as soon as you discover this symptom to get it addressed.
3. Gurgling Sounds
When using plumbing appliances, you should also be on the lookout for any unusual sounds that may occur. For example, if you flush your toilet and hear strange gurgling sounds, you should call a plumber right once to assess the situation. Toilets generally emit water-related sounds that subside once the flushing cycle is completed. If, on the other hand, you hear sounds that sound like an upset stomach, you may have a serious problem. If you are hearing gurgling noises coming from your drains, the same logic applies.
4. Pool of Water or Dampness Near Drainfield
It is no longer possible to absorb wastewater in a septic tank when it is damaged or fails. This indicates that wastewater will naturally seep out of the earth as a result of the groundwater table. It has the potential to create a significant pool of wastewater near the drain field, as well as cause dampness in the same area. These are the most obvious indications of a failing septic system, and they should not be ignored. A pool of water near the drainfield will often appear as if it has been raining on your lawn for an extended period of time.
Dampness near your drainfield, especially if it hasn’t rained in several days, should be taken seriously. If you have reason to believe that your septic tank is full or broken, make a point of actively looking for these signs.
5. Nasty Odors
One such tell-tale indicator of a failing septic system is the development of foul odors near the drainfield and plumbing equipment. If you notice strong and nasty scents when you walk outdoors and tread onto your grass, it is possible that your septic tank has failed. If the bad aromas emanating from your house are the same as those emanating from the office, you can reach a similar conclusion. It is likely that sewage has entered your home through the drainfield and into your main drain line, resulting in these foul odors.
6. Unusual, Bright Green Grass Above Drainfield
Have you ever seen people applying mulch, fertilizers, and manure to their lawns in order to encourage it to grow more quickly? It is possible that sewage has the same features as manure, namely that it contains nutrients such as nitrogen, potassium, phosphorus, and micronutrients that plants can use to thrive. When you see exceptionally green grass near your drainfield, it is likely that wastewater is leaking into your lawn from the drainfield itself. Due to the fact that grass is naturally green, identifying this symptom might be difficult.
Pay close attention to your drainfield in order to identify this problem before it becomes too serious.
7. Blooms of Algae in Nearby Water
If you live near a body of water, such as a lake or pond, keep an eye out for unexpected algal blooms that appear out of nowhere. Due to the fact that most individuals regard the appearance of algae to be a regular occurrence, diagnosing this symptom can also be difficult. Algal blooms, on the other hand, occur when a huge concentration of algae forms in a body of water. They appear to be artificial and to be the result of excessive algal contamination in the water. When wastewater is present, it might lead to the growth of algae that is aberrant.
8. High Levels of Coliform in Water Well
A neighboring water well may also be able to identify abnormal amounts of coliform bacteria as well as high quantities of nitrogen dioxide (nitrogen dioxide). However, if your septic system fails, the water in your well will get contaminated with bacteria and harsh chemicals by effluent from the surrounding area. Give Us a Call Right Now! Any problems with your septic tank now occupy your thoughts? If this is the case, please contact us at (941) 721-4645 to talk with a member of our staff. You may also learn more about our septic services by visiting this page.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)
A neighboring water well may also be able to identify abnormal quantities of coliform bacteria and nitrogen compounds. However, if your septic system fails, the water in your well will get contaminated with bacteria and harsh chemicals by effluent from the surrounding areas. Please contact us immediately! Any problems with your septic tank now occupy your time? To talk with a member of our team, please contact us at (941) 721-4645 right now. For additional information about our septic services, please visit this page.
How much do septic system repair services cost?
- A septic system repair service might cost anywhere from $500 to $2,000 in labor and materials. The ultimate cost is determined by the extent of the task, the number of hours worked, and other factors.
Can a septic drainfield be repaired?
- Even though there is no quick remedy for drainfield repair, it is achievable if you employ an expert plumber or septic system specialist.
How often do septic systems need to be replaced?
- Septic systems may endure for more than 40 years if they are properly maintained. Every three years, the average septic tank should be examined and pumped out in order to avoid long-term problems and septic system failure.
How to Install Drain Pipes for a Septic Tank Yourself
Home-Diy Installing a septic tank is often done by a professional who has access to the necessary equipment. A concrete septic tank can weigh several thousand pounds, and the ordinary homeowner does not have the necessary tools to safely install it in the ground. if (sources.length) then this.parentNode.removeChild(sources); else this.onerror = null; this.src = fallback; if (sources.length) then this.parentNode.removeChild(sources); else if (sources.length) then this.parentNode.removeChild(sources); else if (sources.length) then this.parentNode.remove ‘/public/images/logo-fallback.png’) is a fallback logo image.
A concrete septic tank can weigh several thousand pounds, and the ordinary homeowner does not have the necessary tools to safely install it in the ground. Although the field lines cannot be built by the homeowner, this can result in considerable cost savings for the homeowner.
- The following items are required: Shovel (backhoe is recommended)
- Tape measure
- Rake PVC perforated pipe
- PVC pipe cleaner
- PVC pipe cement PVC pipe cleaner
- Geotextile material
Large bushes or trees should not be planted directly over drain lines.
- Inspect your property and get a percolation test performed. In most cases, you will need a copy of the perc test results in order to acquire a permit to build a septic system in your home. In order to assess how quickly the soil absorbs water, a perc test will be performed on your site by a licensed specialist on your behalf. The results of this test will be used to calculate the quantity of drain line that will be required for your system. Drain lines should be measured and marked out before installation. You can divide this down into many lines, but each line must be the same length, and there must be a minimum of six feet between each line in order to be considered complete. Prior to digging, mark the beginning and ending locations of each line, double-checking all measurements to ensure they are accurate. Dig each drain line to a depth of 30 inches and a width of 24 inches. However, while a pick and shovel may be used to do the task, a backhoe can complete it in a fraction of the time and with less strain on your back. To make the trenches as flat as possible, remove any large boulders or roots that may have accumulated in them. Each of these lines will be served by a pipe that will go from the distribution box to it. This is the location where the pipe from the distribution box enters the ditch and marks the beginning point of your drain line. Fill each drain line with gravel until it reaches a depth of 12 inches. Spread gravel over the area to be covered with drain pipes and smooth it up with your rake. Install a 4 inch PVC perforated pipe on top of the gravel to provide drainage. This pipe will be connected to the pipe that comes from the distribution box and will run the whole length of the drain line to connect to the drain. Pipe cleaner should be used to clean each pipe junction before applying pipe cement. Before continuing, double-check that all of the fittings are in place. To finish covering the drain lines, continue to pour additional gravel into the system until the pipes are covered by roughly 1 to 2 inches of material. Using a rake, smooth out the gravel. A layer of geotextile material should be rolled out to cover the whole length and width of the drain line in order to prevent dirt from filtering into the drain lines and to aid in keeping roots out of the drainage system. The drain lines should be backfilled somewhat to allow for some small mounding to compensate for the settling that will occur. Grass seed should be planted on top of drain lines to aid in the absorption process and to avoid erosion.
The Drip Cap
- Installing a septic tank is often done by a professional who has access to the necessary equipment. A concrete septic tank can weigh several thousand pounds, and the ordinary homeowner does not have the necessary tools to safely install it in the ground. Dig each drain line to a depth of 30 inches and a width of 24 inches. Ensure that any large rocks or roots are removed from the trenches, and that the foundation is as level as possible
- Fill each drain line with gravel until it reaches a depth of 12 inches. In addition, this pipe will link to the pipe that comes from the distribution box and will run the whole length of the drain line.