- Position a pry bar between the top of the septic tank and the lid. Ask your helper to hold the handle on top of the lid. Push down on the pry bar to lift up one end of the concrete septic tank lid. Ask your helper to pull the lid handle and slide the lid to the side.
How thick is a concrete septic tank lid?
The exterior walls of the septic tank are made of concrete, normally 4 inches thick.
Do septic tanks have concrete lids?
A septic tank installed before 1975 will have a single 24-inch concrete lid in the center of the rectangle. A shallow excavation with a shovel at those locations should reveal the lid or lids, depending on the year of the tank.
How many lids should a concrete septic tank have?
Two or three lids may be included in your system. The average size of a sewage tank is approximately 5 feet by 8 feet. The lid is buried between 4 inches and 4 feet underground in most cases.
Should septic tank lids be airtight?
Like wells, septic systems have problems if they are not sealed from outside surface water. Most septic systems rely on buried pipes to get rid of the fluids. The lid covers should fit tightly — if they don’t, a company that specializes in septic repairs should be called to fix them.
How do you secure a septic tank lid?
Keep the lids secure by repairing or replacing all damaged or missing parts. Use bolts, screws, or other locks to secure the lids and prevent easy access. Never drive or park vehicles on top of septic systems – it can damage or dislodge the cover.
Are concrete septic tanks reinforced with rebar?
3 reinforcing rod (rebar). (11) The concrete tank and tank lid shall be reinforced by using a minimum reinforcing of six-inch by six-inch No. (13) A minimum 28-day concrete compressive strength of 3,500 pounds per square inch shall be used in the construction of the septic tank, concrete access riser and riser cover.
Are septic tanks reinforced?
Precast septic tanks are typically manufactured in two pieces, either with a seam at the lid or midseam. Steel reinforcement is used according to the tank design to provide additional structural capacity during handling, installation, testing and use. Usually precast septic tanks are manufactured in two pieces.
How Can I Make a Concrete Septic Cover?
Home-Diy At the absolute least, every septic tank has a cover, which not only aids in the release of gas but also gives access to the tank for septic firms that need to empty or examine it for leaks. You may construct a concrete septic cover, which provides more protection and discourages animals from attempting to enter the system. if (sources.length) then this.parentNode.removeChild(sources); then this.onerror = null; this.src = fallback; )(, arguments.target.currentSrc.replace; )(, arguments.target.currentSrc.replace; )(, arguments.target.currentSrc.replace; (//$/, “), ‘/public/images/logo-fallback.png’) (//$/, “), ‘/public/images/logo-fallback.png’) ” loading=”lazy”> ” loading=”lazy”> Septic tank covers made of concrete are a reliable method of keeping them secure.
Measure and Pour
Measure the top of the septic tank cover area, and then use that measurement to construct a frame around which to pour the concrete. The frame should be constructed of aluminum or any other malleable metal that can be pulled away from drying or cured concrete without damaging the structure. Increase the width of the concrete cover frame by an inch or two on each side so that it overhang the top of the entrance and completely covers it. Then, pour a thick layer of heavy-duty cement into the frame and smooth it out with a rubber mallet.
After you are pouring, make sure there are gaps around the border of the frame so that when it dries, you can easily remove the cover from the frame without damaging the frame.
Allow at least one day for the concrete to cure before attempting to remove it.
Handles and Installation
As soon as the concrete has been poured and is beginning to dry, add metal handles to the wet cement so that you may raise and move the cover with more ease. In an ideal world, these metal handles would be created from bent steel beams similar to those used in construction, but they may be made from just about any sort of metal that will enable concrete to harden around it firmly. Lift and transport the cover to the septic tank, making sure it fits over the entrance, when the concrete has set and the handles are in place.
Security of Cement Cover
It is unlikely that someone will attempt to remove the massive concrete cover that you have erected for your septic system in the majority of circumstances. Even so, placing a metal bar over the top of the concrete and locking it in place may be a smart idea for covers used in more sensitive situations, such as commercial buildings or public places of worship.
When a metal bar is attached to a piece of metal or chain that has been screwed into the concrete or metal around the top of the septic system, it may be secured in place. Fortunately, the bar can be simply removed, allowing for access to the septic tank underneath.
The Drip Cap
- At the absolute least, every septic tank has a cover, which not only aids in the release of gas but also gives access to the tank for septic firms that must empty or examine it for leaks. Afterwards, pour a generous amount of heavy-duty cement into the frame and smooth it out
- Using the handles, raise and carry the cover to the septic tank to ensure that it fits over the entrance
- Once the concrete has cured, remove it from the tank and discard it.
How to Replace a Concrete Septic Lid With a Plastic Lid
Jupiterimages/Photos.com/Getty Images is the source of this image. In most cases, thick concrete lids over manholes and access holes are used to build concrete septic tanks, which are subsequently covered with soil after installation. While this is a satisfactory installation, many septic specialists recommend that the concrete lids be replaced with plastic risers and lids to provide for easier access to the tank for examining and cleaning the system. The new plastic top is now easily accessible for pumping and maintenance thanks to the addition of a riser.
How to Replace a Concrete Septic Lid With a Plastic Lid
Remove any furniture, potted plants, yard décor, and other things from the surrounding area. Protect your pets, and keep other people and children away from the area. Put on your protective gear as well, such as gloves and safety goggles. When working with concrete, always use a dust mask or a respirator to protect your lungs from the silicates in the dry mix that can cause irritation.
Step 2: Locate the Tank and Lids
Identify the tank and its covers. As a result of the shallower soil and reduced ability to hold moisture for the lawn’s roots, dead grass may be an indication of the tank’s position. A metal detector may be used to discover rebar in concrete tanks, after which it can be probed to locate the edges.
Step 3: Remove the Soil
The tank and its covers should be easily accessible by this point. Because the soil is thinner and less able to retain moisture for the lawn’s roots, dead grass may identify the position of the tank. A metal detector may be used to discover rebar in concrete tanks, after which it can be probed to find the edges.
Step 4: Measure the Lid
Take the diameter of the lids, as well as any tank inlet or baffle outlet covers, and round them up. If the bigger lid, sometimes known as a “manhole” lid, has a diameter greater than 24 inches, it may be necessary to use an adapter before placing the lid riser over the hole. Adapters are available from the company that makes the lid riser.
Step 5: Remove the Lid
It is necessary to take measurements of the lids, as well as of any tank inlet or baffle outlet covers. The bigger lid, often known as the “manhole” lid, may require an adaptor before the lid riser can be fitted over the hole if its diameter is more than 24 inches. From the lid riser maker, you may purchase adapters.
Step 6: Adjust the Riser Height
Calculate the diameter of the lids and any tank inlet or baffle outlet covers that you may have on hand. If the bigger lid, sometimes known as a “manhole” lid, has a diameter greater than 24 inches, an adapter may be required before the lid riser can be fitted over the hole. Adapters are available from the maker of the lid riser.
Step 7: Rough the Riser Base
Using 40- to 60-grit sandpaper, sand the area around the base of the risers. Place the risers over the manholes, as well as the intake and outflow holes, after wiping them down with a tack cloth.
Step 8: Apply Concrete Patch Mix
In a bucket, combine the quick-drying, high-strength, flexible concrete repair mix that has been advised.
Work rapidly, since the mixture will dry in 15 to 20 minutes if left to sit. With a trowel, apply a generous amount of sealant around the bases of the risers, being sure to cover the edges all the way up to the top of the septic tank. Allow for a thorough drying time.
Step 9: Attach the New Lid
Set replacement lids on the risers, following the manufacturer’s instructions and using a socket wrench to secure them in place.
Step 10: Rebury the Tank
Soil should be used to cover the septic tank. Cover the bare soil with sod or grass seed to prevent it from becoming naked.
Tip
- Using soil, fill in the septic tank. In order to cover bare soil, lay down sod or sprinkle grass seed.
Warning
- You should never enter or even put your head inside a septic tank unless absolutely necessary. Every year, a number of people die as a result of the fumes produced by septic tanks
- You may pass out, fall in, and suffocate or drown. When the lids of the septic tank are open, never leave the tank alone, even for a single minute. It is possible for a kid or pet to fall in and drown
- Avoid driving over the risers and lids.
How to Replace a Concrete Septic Lid
Septic systems employ a concrete cap to limit the infiltration of smells and sewage into the surrounding soil. Every five years, the lid must be removed in order for the septic system to be emptied out and the tank to be cleaned. When concrete septic tank covers become cracked or damaged in any way, they must be replaced immediately. Purchases of this nature can be made online or at a home improvement store in your area. Many septic tanks are equipped with risers, which allow the lid to be seen above ground.
Make arrangements with the utility companies to come out and mark the position of electricity and water lines before beginning work on a concrete septic lid replacement.
How to Replace a Concrete Septic Lid (with Pictures) Image courtesy of creatingmore/E+/GettyImages.com
Dig Down to the Septic Lid
Spade or shovel the dirt around the concrete septic lid until you reach the septic tank lid, and then remove the septic tank lid. Septic tanks are typically located 12 to 14 inches below the surface of the earth. In order to have enough area to work when taking the septic tank top off the septic tank, it is preferable if you dig a perimeter around it that is 16 inches wide. It’s also a good idea to dig 2 inches past the seam where the lid and tank come together. If your lid is mounted on a riser, there is no need to poke around underneath.
Lift Off the Lid
Using a spade and shovel, dig around the concrete septic lid until you reach the septic tank’s lid and remove it. Septic tanks are typically located 12 to 14 inches below the ground’s surface. In order to have enough area to work when taking the septic tank top off the septic tank, it is preferable if you dig a perimeter around it that is 16 inches wide or wider. Digging 2 inches past the seam where the tank’s lid meets the tank’s bottom is also advisable.
Measure the Lid
Using a tape measure, measure the length and breadth of the aperture to your septic tank chamber. Purchase a replacement sewer cover from Home Depot or another supplier depending on the measurements you’ve taken thus far. The old lid should be placed back on top of the septic tank, or the tank entrance should be covered with a tarp if it will be several days until your new lid comes.
Clean the Seal
Using a putty knife, scrape away any remaining old seal from the top of the septic tank if necessary.
The majority of the seal will come away in large chunks. With a wire brush, clean the top of the tank entrance to remove any remaining traces of the seal as well as any loose concrete.
Install the New Lid
One end of the new septic tank lid should be lifted while the other end is lifted by your assistant. Lower the concrete lid over the septic tank with care, ensuring that the seal between the tank and the lid is compressed. If you have to dig to get to the septic tank, you should cover it with the earth.
How to Make a Septic Tank Cover
- One end of the new septic tank lid should be lifted while the other end should be lifted by your assistant. Carefully drop the concrete lid over the septic tank, ensuring that the seal between the tank and the lid is compressed. a. When digging to get to the septic tank, cover it with earth to prevent a clog.
It is not necessary to undertake a significant building project in order to replace a septic tank lid. Some septic tank covers, which are designed to lay on top of a tank to protect it from excess moisture – and to shield you from unpleasant odors – have been known to disintegrate and collapse into the tank itself. The worst-case situation is the replacement of the whole tank, which can cost thousands of dollars in labor and materials. It is possible to rebuild a concrete tank lid if the structural integrity of the septic tank has not been harmed by the collapsed cover.
Step 1
Cut a huge shape out of the bottom of the plastic barrel that is approximately 1 foot deep. In order to properly cover the whole septic tank entrance, the form should be larger than the tank opening plus a few inches to allow for overlap. Place the plastic pipe in the centre of the barrel, vertically up, in the center of the barrel. The pipe will serve as a tank vent when it is installed.
Step 2
Use scissors to cut a big shape about 1 foot deep out of the bottom of a plastic barrel. In order to properly cover the whole septic tank entrance, the form should be larger than the tank opening plus a few inches to accommodate overlap. Make sure the plastic pipe is centered in the barrel and is standing up straight. For the tank, the pipe will serve as a vent.
Step 3
Place the handles on top of the cement and secure with screws. To ensure that the handles reach at least 3 inches into the cement, they should be at least 3 inches long. Allow at least 24 hours for the cement to dry. After that, you should be able to lift the septic tank cover by the handles.
Step 4
Remove the barrel from the concrete with a saw. Make sure that the cover fits tightly over the top of the septic tank when it is placed over the tank. The U-bend should be attached to the top of the straight pipe that emerges through the cover. The U-bend will allow rainwater to escape from the tank without accumulating any of it.
Tip
Select a plastic barrel that is large enough to cover the opening of the septic tank drain. It is possible that you will need to cut the tank in the middle and use a piece of plywood for the bottom half of the form.
Warning
Do not let the septic tank lid fall to the ground. It will be rather heavy, and if it is dropped, it may shatter – or cause other objects to break.
Septic Tank lid construction and fabrication
Do not remove the septic tank cover from its hinged position! The item will be substantial in weight and if dropped, it may break – as well as break other items.
- Do not remove the septic tank cover from its mounting bracket. It will be rather heavy and, if dropped, it may shatter – or cause other objects to break.
Why A Concrete Septic Tank?
Concrete septic tanks are preferable than fiberglass or plastic septic tanks because they are waterproof and heavy duty, making them the preferred storage vessel for on-site sewage storage and treatment over the other materials. In the United States, there are over 40 million septic systems in operation.
Septic systems rely on the soil surrounding the septic tank, which is the major component in a septic system, to filter the wastewater discharged from the tank. Concrete septic tanks are also well-known for the following characteristics, in addition to the advantages described above:
- Due to the fact that concrete septic tanks are waterproof and heavy duty, they are the preferred storage vessel for on-site septic storage and treatment over fiberglass or plastic alternatives. Over 40 million septic systems are operational throughout the country. Rather than using a septic tank, which serves as the major component in a septic system, the surrounding soil is used to filter the waste water discharged from the tank. Concrete septic tanks are also well-known for the following features, in addition to the advantages described above:
Raider Rooter Septic Tank
Any age or condition of your septic system does not matter to Raider Rooter, who will repair an old or damaged septic tank lid. We provide this as part of our continuing customer service in order to better serve our clients. If you are thinking about upgrading your system or installing a new one, call Raider Rooter at 866-672-4337 to receive a free quotation.
Septic Tank Risers, Lids, and Covers
Septic tank risers are intended to replace existing concrete, fiberglass, or metal septic tank lids by lowering the entrance to the ground level and allowing for better drainage. Want to stop digging up your yard every time you need to have your septic system cleaned, repaired, or re-filled with water? Do you despise having to lift and carry incredibly big concrete lids on your shoulders? It appears that you require septic tank risers to raise your access to ground level, as well as a lightweight, easily removable access cover.
- With the Polylok risers and lids from Septic Solutions, septic tank maintenance will be a breeze!
- Want to stop digging up your yard every time you need to have your septic system cleaned, repaired, or re-filled with water?
- It appears that you require septic tank risers to raise your access to ground level, as well as a lightweight, easily removable access cover.
- With the Polylok risers and lids from Septic Solutions, septic tank maintenance will be a breeze!
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS
The following are some of the most commonly asked inquiries that our customer support representatives are asked. Take a peek below; it’s possible that the queries you have have been answered! Would the POLYLOK SEPTIC TANK LID fit directly on the ADAPTER RING, or will I need to use a RISER to ensure a proper fit on the tank? With the exception of the 24″ Heavy Duty Lid, the lid will often fit straight onto the adapter rings in the majority of cases. The underside of the 24″ Heavy Duty Lid is strengthened for added strength.
- Therefore, the 24″ Heavy Duty Lid will only be able to be used without using an adapter when the opening is at least 24″ in diameter.
- ALL other Polylok lids will attach straight to the adapter ring, eliminating the need for a riser or any other adaptor.
- No.
- Cutting the riser will result in the lid not being adequately secured on the riser that has been cut down.
- It is entirely up to you whether you want to bring the riser system up to grade, raise it above grade, or leave it slightly below grade.
- IS IT BETTER TO USE THE STANDARD LID OR THE HEAVY DUTY LID?
- If the riser system is located in a high traffic location or is going to be run over by lawn equipment on a frequent basis, the heavy duty lid is recommended.
- Yes.
IS IT INCLUDED WITH THE POLYLOK SEPTIC TANK RISERS AND LIDS TO USE SCREWS? Yes. The Polylok Septic Tank Risers are assembled using stainless steel screws that allow them to be connected to one another. If you have any more queries, please contact us at 1-877-925-5132 or [email protected].
THE POLYLOK SEPTIC TANK RISER ADVANTAGE
Riser systems are available in a variety of shapes, sizes, and designs on the market today. The Polylok septic tank risers are, without a doubt, the best money can buy in this category. There are several causes for this, but the following are the most significant:
FACTORY INSTALLED GASKETS
The Polylok brand is the only one on the market that is sent to you from the factory with gaskets already in place, making it unique. This means that there is no further work necessary to ensure that the riser system is air and water tight! Keep ground water out of your tank, wastewater in your tank, and potentially hazardous gases out of your yard! In contrast to most other products, our Polylok septic tank risers do not require you to purchase or use any other type of sealant between each riser part.
INTERNAL STRUCTURAL RIBS
Pre-installed gaskets are included with every Polylok product, making it the only one on the market that does this. Because of this, there is no additional work needed to ensure that the riser system is airtight and watertight! This is critical in order to keep groundwater out of your tank, wastewater inside your tank, and potentially hazardous gases out of your yard! The majority of other solutions need you to purchase or apply some other type of sealant between each riser component, but with our Polylok septic tank risers, you won’t have to bother about that!
LOW PROFILE RISER LIDS WITH HANDLES
The septic tank access lid on a riser system is one of the most significant components since it is the part of the system that is visible from the outside and that must be removed every time the system is pumped or otherwise serviced. The Polylok lids are pre-installed with handles, which make it simple to remove the lid whenever you need to get access to the system or to replace it. The bottom of the lids is structurally supported, which allows them to remain relatively flat rather than domed in shape, as is the case with many other items on the market.
LARGE TANK ADAPTER RING
As the most visible component of your riser system, the septic tank access lid is also one of the most vital since it is the component that must be removed every time the system is pumped or repaired. Handles are pre-installed on the Polylok lids, which make it simple to remove the lid whenever you need to get access to your system. It is also possible for the lids to be relatively flat rather than domed shaped like many other goods on the market since they are structurally supported on the bottom.
STAINLESS STEEL SCREWS INCLUDED
At Septic Solutions, we strive to make the buying and installation process as simple as possible for our customers. All of our Polylok risers and lids are delivered with all of the stainless steel screws required for installation in one package.
Septic Tank Lids
If you have ever had to hire someone to locate theSeptic Tank that was buried someplace in your East Bethel MN yard, then you should consider using Septic Tank Acess Risers as a primary benefit. Increased accessibility when it comes time to have the septic tank pumped out or inspected will result from raising the entry point to the surface of the ground. It has the potential to save a significant amount of time and money over time.
CSICustom Septic Inc. prefers to install new septic tanks with the manhole cover at or near ground level, rather than above it. It is not necessary to excavate for inspections or maintenance when using a Secure Lid since it provides safety and protection.
10 Reasons to Install Septic Tank Riser With Lid
Typically, a Septic Tank Access Riser is built of either plastic or concrete. They typically measure between eight to twenty-four inches in circumference. When constructed properly, a riser and lid may give a variety of benefits that will most likely save you both time and money. Listed below are ten reasons why you should consider installing a Septic Tank Riser:
- Easy Septic System Maintenance
- Easy Access to the Pump Tank
- Convenience Counts for Something. Septic tank maintenance costs are reduced because surface water or runoff is prevented from entering the tank. Access to Septic Tank Inspections should be improved. Reduced amount of time spent locating an underground septic tank Installation is a one-time expense
- The cover provides a watertight seal
- The septic tank lid is securely attached
- And Landscaping Has the Potential to Improve Appearance
Replacing Cracked or Broken Tank Cover
When it comes to dealing with sewer, we place the highest premium on safety first. A septic tank cover that is broken or cracked might pose a safety hazard. Additionally, if water escapes into the tank, it might reduce the reliability of sewage treatment. Excessive volumes of water might cause the organic treatment process taking place inside the tank to become disrupted. As part of our Repair Service, CSI Custom Septic, Inc. will replace a cracked, broken, or missing septic tank cover. Contact us for more information.
MN Septic InspectionsRepairs
Don’t waste any more time or money trying to locate and dig up the Septic Tank Cover in your East Bethel, Minnesota yard. With the expertise of CSI Custom Septic, Inc., installing or replacing a septic tank manhole cover riser is simple and economical. Our professionals can assist you in selecting the most appropriate tank lid for your needs and in ensuring that it is properly installed. Septic System Inspections and Maintenance are made faster and easier with the use of convenient Extenders and Risers.
CSI Custom Septic, Inc.
Call (763) 218-4769 for more information.
Concrete septic tank lid conversion?
In fact, I considered pulling one lid up and creating a form around it, then pouring a new one with a pipe nipple in place.I’m a little concerned about the use of the term “pipe nipple,” which conjures up images of a tight fit for hose or even something to attach a hose to.However, I’m not concerned about using the term “pipe nipple.” I believe it is advisable to provide lots of additional space around the hose.
The “honey dipper” always used the extra space available in the suction hose (pump out is a 14″ square hole) to stick a pole into the tank to agitate it and use the hose to spray inside, keeping everything moving so that there was little if any residue left in the tank every time we had our tank pumped (1000 gal with a 250 gallon riser).
Personally, I’d check with the people who perform the pump out and they’ll most likely be able to help, or they’ll be able to recommend someone who can install a gasket and collar with a lid.
How to Find the Lid on a Septic System
All septic tanks eventually fill with sediments and must be pumped out on a regular basis in order to remain in excellent functioning order. If the tank’s lid is not on a riser at ground level and you are not the home’s original owner, you may be unable to determine where the lid is located.
A typical septic tank is 4 inches to 4 feet underground, with all of its components, including the cover, buried between 4 inches and 4 feet underneath. This is true regardless of whether the septic tank is equipped with special risers that keep the lid flush with the surface of the ground.
Consult A Map
First, choose with the most straightforward choice. The installation of septic tanks at all locations is recorded in most counties’ permission records, which are kept on file for future reference. Typically, this will include a schematic indicating the placement of the tank on the land, as well as certain dimensions that will allow you to measure to the precise site of the tank. If your tank was placed before your county made it a requirement to record the location of such tanks, you may find yourself with nothing to show for your efforts.
Search For A Sign
Septic tanks are placed in such a way that they are as unnoticeable as possible on the land. After the grass has grown back after installation and some time has passed, it is possible that just a few visual indications will remain. Pay particular attention to the contours of your yard for any inexplicable high or low points that might suggest the presence of an underground storage tank.
Follow The Pipe
Installation of the septic tank takes place along the sewage line that runs from the house into the front yard. Locate the 4-inch sewage pipe at the point where it exits the home in the basement or crawl space, if it is there. Locate the same spot outside and make a note of it. Insert a thin metal probe into the earth, identify the 4-inch sewage line, and follow it across the yard, probing every 2 feet, until you reach the end of the property. Septic tanks are required to be at least 5 feet apart from the home in all states except Alaska.
Whenever the probe makes contact with flat concrete, fiberglass, or polyethylene it indicates that the tank has been located.
Locate The Lid
The majority of septic tanks are rectangular in shape and measure around 5 feet by 8 feet. Investigate the tank’s circumference to determine its boundaries and outline the rectangle’s boundary using a pencil. A septic tank that was built before 1975 will have a single concrete lid that is 24 inches in diameter in the center of the rectangle. If the tank was built after 1975, it will have two covers made of fiberglass or polyethylene, centered at the ends of the rectangle and centered at the ends of the rectangle.
Call A Professional
Opening a septic tank is a job best left to the pros once the lid has been discovered. Concrete septic tank lids are extremely heavy, and many require the use of lifting tools to remove them completely. An open tank has the potential to release toxic gases. Anyone going around on the property who comes into contact with an exposed septic tank might be in risk. Because of the noxious vapors present in an open tank, falling into one can be lethal.
Mark The Spot
Make a mark on the ground near where the tank was pumped by a professional and the lid was buried to serve as a reference in the future.
In order to keep track of where you are, you should choose a hefty circular patio tile that is embedded in the ground. Additionally, draw your own map of the area and store it with your other important papers.
» Drainage and Septic
- The location of the tank should be marked for future reference once it has been emptied by a professional and the lid has been hidden. In order to keep track of where you are, you might use a hefty circular patio tile that is placed in the ground. Also, draw your own map of the area and save it with your other important papers.
Sump Tanks
- Mark the location of the tank after it has been pumped by a professional and the lid has been buried for future reference. Keep track of where you are by placing a hefty circular patio tile in the ground. Also, draw your own map of the area and store it with your other important documents.
Soakwells
- Rainwater collected from gutters and downpipes should be dispersed. The use of pre-formed step iron holes as well as pre-cast drainage holes allows for rapid absorption. All sizes are currently in stock! Geofabric is another product that we provide.
Bases
- Rainwater gathered in gutters and downpipes should be dispersed. To facilitate rapid absorption, preformed step iron holes are used in conjunction with pre-cast drainage holes. The entire range of sizes is available! Geofabric is another product that we provide.
Standard Lids
- 75mm standard thickness, which is suited for projects that will not be exposed to traffic
- It is appropriate for use in residential driveways. Reid Swift Lift Lifting anchors are simple to use and manipulate.
Trafficable Lids
- T Tough, heavy-duty 150mm thickness to handle high-traffic conditions
- Reid Swift Lift Lifting Anchors are designed to be lightweight and easy to handle. All sizes are currently in stock.
Manhole Covers
- To handle heavy traffic, a heavy-duty 150mm thickness is required. In order to make handling easier, Reid Swift Lift Lifting Anchors are used
- There are many of sizes in stock.
Grated Lids
- Grates are available in three different styles (please state your preference when ordering): In the case of hotmix/asphalt, the raised height is 25mm
- In the case of concrete or bricks, it is 100mm. We can tailor our services to your specific needs – please contact us for a quote.
Side Entry Pits
- Heavy-duty for use on the roadway
- There are options for left, right, and standard (universal) positions
- The products are available as a set or individually
Step Irons
- Tanks with a height more than 100mm are recommended. The distance between step irons should be 400mm. With ease, you can get to the tank. Available as a Knock-In or a Bolt-In installation
Gullies
- Exceptional for providing a long-term drainage solution
- It is also suitable for use as agricultural feed troughs. Gully is smaller in size, making it suited for residential constructions and capable of withstanding light car traffic
- Larger gully ideal for commercial drainage demands and heavy vehicle traffic
- Alternatives are available – please contact us to explore your requirements.
Sewer Pipe Anchors
- Elbows for PVC pipe encased in concrete
- Inquire with us about your purchase price per unit of quantity
Septic Tanks
- Septic Tanks with Lids, 1500mm and 1200mm in diameter, are sometimes marketed as a “set.” Preformed inlet and outlet holes
- 100mm thick pre-poured foundation
- Preformed inlet and outlet holes Please contact us for assistance with all of your septic issues.
Septic Tanks Lids
- Split for convenience of service
- Precast Inspection Cap
- Trafficable lids (150mm thick) are available – appropriate for heavy vehicle usage
- Split for ease of servicing
Septic Baffles
- Septic tanks were divided in order to save money. This product is suitable for usage in smaller houses. Reid Swift Lift lifting anchors have been installed for convenience in handling
Concrete Leach Drains
- Installation is quick and simple. There are large volumes of stock available. Are you unsure about what you require? Please get in touch with us for helpful guidance. Do you require it to be delivered? Contact us if you need assistance with any of your delivery or placement needs.
Plastic Leach Drains
- You may save money by using a more economical, yet extremely effective, alternative to concrete leach drains. Lightweight and easy to manage, allowing for a rapid and simple installation. A high-quality product made in Western Australia
- Having the ability to tolerate traffic
- Contact us immediately for courteous guidance on the many combinations we have available
Geofabric
- Use a more economical yet extremely effective alternative to concrete leach drains and save money. The material is lightweight and easy to manipulate, making installation a snap. In WA, a high-quality product is made
- Having the ability to resist heavy traffic Contact us immediately for courteous guidance on any of our many setups.
Seal-R Products Tank Cover, Service Lid, Septic Tank Lid, Septic Cover, Seal-r Ring, Seal-r Lids, Safety Lids, Riser Pipe, Precast, Maintenance Pipe, Cast In Place Ring, Adaptor Rings
| Seal-R™ LidsAvailable in 12”, 15”, 18” 24”, 30”, 36”.Seal-R™ RingsAvailable in 18”, 24”, 30”.Inner Safety LidsAvailable in 18”, 24”, 30”. |
Easy 10 minute installation!Secure fit for all systems!Madesold by septic installers!Prevent ground water infiltration and save money at the same time!
| Apply foam sealant to tank. | Place ring over opening and apply foam. |
| Place plastic maintenance pipe on ring. | Install lid. |
Are you tired of using risers that are too tall or too short for the job you are completing?
Plastic riser pipe will give an exact height each time. Try our system and you will never have to carry concrete pipe and lids again. Save time by not having to assemble multiple sections.| Now you can cast right into septic tank lids up to 6” thick with the 9” tallSeal-R™ Cast-In-Place Ring. The Cast-In-Place Ring will allow installers to use standard 24” I.D. tank riser material. |
Easy Installation!No Heavy Lifting!Prevent ground water infiltration and save money at the same time!No expensive forms to replace!
Sewage tank lids, risers and covers are a terrific method to save time and money while boosting safety around the septic system. Installing septic tank lids and risers to bring access to your system up to code will save you the money you would otherwise spend on having your system dug up every time it needs to be pumped. If you replace heavy concrete lids with lightweight yet sturdy and durable plastic lids that can be attached securely to protect the safety of children and dogs in the vicinity of the system, you may save your back.
Polylok Septic Tank Risers and Lids
12″ x 6″ Septic Tank Riser made of Polylok
- Extra strength is provided by heavy-duty structural rib reinforcing. For UV-Rays, a green opaque hue is used. Molded warning signs that are clearly visible for safety
- Frost is prevented from clinging to frost prone locations by structural ribs on the interior.
Riser Lid for Septic Tank with Polylok 12″ Lid
- Riser Lid for Septic Tank with Polylok 12″
Septic Tank Riser Polylok 20″ x 6″ Polylok Septic Tank Riser
- Watertight and airtight
- Provides the highest level of UV protection currently available. High-density polyethylene is used in its construction. Frost is prevented from clinging to frost-prone locations by structural ribs on the interior.
Septic Tank Riser Polylok 20″ x 12″ Polylok 20″ x 12″
- Watertight and airtight
- Provides the highest level of UV protection currently available. High-density polyethylene is used in its construction.
Riser Lid for Septic Tank with Polylok 20″ Lid
- The surface is slip-resistant, and it has two recessed handles for simple removal. The most effective UV protection available
- In order to dissuade unwanted entrance, square drive screws are used.
The Polylok 20″ Heavy Duty Septic Tank Lid is made of polypropylene.
- Surface that is skid resistant
- The highest level of UV protection possible
- It has a foam gasket to provide an airtight and waterproof connection. In order to dissuade unwanted entrance, square drive screws are used.
The Polylok Septic Tank Riser measures 24″ x 6″.
- Watertight and airtight
- Provides the highest level of UV protection currently available. High-density polyethylene is used in its construction. Bring the septic access up to grade in no time
The Polylok 24″ x 12″ Septic Tank Riser is made of polyethylene.
- Watertight and airtight
- Provides the highest level of UV protection currently available. High-density polyethylene is used in its construction.
Riser Lid for Septic Tank with Polylok 24″ Lid
- Surface that is slip-resistant
- Included are two recessed handles that make removal simple. The most effective UV protection available
- In order to dissuade unwanted entrance, square drive screws are used.
Alternatively, you may phone us at 330-236-1561.
Tuf-TIte Septic Tank Risers and Lids
Tuf-Tite 20″ x 6″ Septic Tank Riser is made of polyethylene.
- Watertight and airtight construction
- Bring the septic access up to grade in no time
- Stackable
• Watertight and airtight construction Septic access may be easily raised above ground level. Stackable;
- Watertight and airtight construction. Easily raise the septic access to the surface of the ground
- Stackable
Tuf-Tite Heavy Duty Septic Tank Lid, 20″ in Diameter
- Air and watertight connection made possible by a foam gasket
- Heavy-duty, long-lasting structure
Tuf-Tite Septic Tank Riser (24″ x 6″ x 5″)
- Septic Tank Riser, Tuf-Tite 24″ x 6″
Tuf-Tite Septic Tank Riser (24″ x 12″ x 4″
- Watertight and airtight construction
- Bring the septic access up to grade in no time
- Stackable
Tuf-Tite Heavy Duty Septic Tank Lid, 24″ in Diameter
- A foam gasket is used to ensure an airtight and waterproof connection. Heavy-duty, long-lasting structure
- Screws made of stainless steel are provided.
Tuf-Tite Domed Septic Tank Lid, 24″ in Diameter
- Screws made of stainless steel are supplied
- Two horizontal safety screws are also included.
Septic Tanks – Graves Concrete
The items offered by Septic Supplies include Presby Environmental and Infiltrator Systems, Polylok FiltersRisers, Zabel Filters, Tuf-Tite FiltersRisers, SRW Fabrics, Poly Barriers, Trench Drains, PVC PipeFittings, Cast Iron FrameCovers, Liberty Pumps, Alarms, and Control Panels, among others.
View Septic Tank Delivery Charges
| Monolithic Tanks H10 | Cover | Price | |
| 500 | H10PDF | H10 Cover | $770.00 |
| 500 | H10 | H10 Cover with plastic risercover | $773.00 |
| 500 | H10 | 8″ Cover | $825.00 |
| 1000 | H10PDF | H10Cover | $836.00 |
| 1000 | H10 | H10 Cover with plastic risercover | $884.00 |
| 1000 | H10 | 8″ Cover | $913.00 |
| 1500 | H10PDF | H10 Cover | $935.00 |
| 1500 | H10 | H10 Cover with plastic riserscovers | $1079.00 |
| 1500 | H10 | 8″ Heavy Cover | $1045.00 |
| 1000/500 | H10PDF | H10 4″ Cover | $1034.00 |
| 1000/500 | H10 | H10 Cover with plastic riserscovers | $1178.00 |
| 1000/500 | H10 | 8″ Heavy Cover | $1144.00 |
2 Piece Tank
| 2000 | H10PDF | 4″ Cover | $1,870.00 | |
| 1386 / 693 | H10PDF | 2/3 – 1/3 | 4″ Cover | $2090.00 |
| 1386 / 693 | H20 | 2/3 – 1/3 | 4″ Cover | $3113.00 |
| 1500/500 | H10PDF | 4″ Cover | $1996.00 | |
| 2000 | H20PDF | 6″ Cover | $2904.00 | |
| 1500/500 | H20PDF | 6″ Cover | $3025.00 | |
| 3000 | H10PDF | 3 pc. | 6″ Cover | $3410.00 |
| 3000 | H20PDF | 3 pc. | 6″ Cover | $4320.00 |
Distribution Box
| 5 Outlet | H10 | $65.00 |
| 5 Outlet | H20 | $80.00 |
| 6 Outlet | H20 | $140.00 |
| 7 Outlet | H10 | $80.00 |
| 7 Outlet | H20 | $100.00 |
| 10 Outlet | H10 | $190.00 |
| 13 Outlet | H10 | $300.00 |
Riser
| 5 Outlet | H10 | $50.00 |
| 5 Outlet | H20 | $60.00 |
| 7 Outlet | H10 | $60.00 |
| 7 Outlet | H20 | $70.00 |
| 10 Outlet | H10 | $117.00 |
