How Much Soil On Top Of A Septic Tank? (Solution found)

Each layer should be uniform, no greater than 24 inches thick, and of nearly equal heights around the perimeter of the tank. However, compaction under the haunch (bottom curvature of some tanks) is best done in 6- to 12-inch layers.

The septic tank holds the solids, which settle to the bottom, and bacteria begins breaking it down. Grease rises to the top of the tank. The water exits the tank via pipes that carry it to perforated pipes laid in a series of gravel beds. According to InspectAPedia, up to 36 inches of loose soil is spread over the top of the gravel and pipes.

Should a septic tank lid be covered with dirt?

A septic tank stores the solids from drains and needs to be pumped out about every two years, so it’s not a good idea to cover the area — you need to always be sure where to find the tank. Modern septic systems have an 8-inch plastic pipe that rises from the tank to a few inches above grade.

How much dirt should be on top of a drain field?

Septic systems are generally planned to have anywhere from 6 inches to 30 inches of soil on top of them.

Can I add dirt on top of septic field?

After the installation of a new septic system, you may see some settling of the soil around and over the tank and lines leading to the drain field. Do not add additional soil, as it will interfere with the evaporation of excess water from the field.

How deep is the top of a septic tank?

Dig Up The Lids In most cases, septic tank components including the lid, are buried between 4 inches and 4 feet underground. You can use a metal probe to locate its edges and mark the perimeter. If you do not find the lid by probing, shallow excavation with a shovel along the tank’s perimeter should reveal the lid.

Can you put anything on top of a septic tank?

Building over septic tanks It is never recommended to build a structure over any portion of your septic system. No permanent structures should be built over any portion of the system, but at least in this case the homeowner can pump out their septic tank.

How do I hide my above ground septic tank?

The Do’s For Hiding Your Septic Tank

Plant tall native grasses with fibrous roots around the opening to conceal the tank lid from view.
Place a light statue, bird bath or potted plant over the septic lid.
Septic tank risers and covers are an alternative to concrete and blend into green grass.

Can you plant a garden on top of a septic field?

The most important reason you should not install a vegetable garden on top of, or right next to, a septic system disposal field is because the plants can become contaminated by wastewater that has not yet been renovated by the field. Plants on disposal fields can absorb wastewater pathogens.

Does my septic tank have 2 lids?

A septic tank installed before 1975 will have a single 24-inch concrete lid in the center of the rectangle. A two-compartment tank installed after 1975 will have two lids of either fiberglass or polyethylene, centered at opposite ends of the rectangle.

Why is the ground soft around my septic tank?

The presence of healthy, lushly growing plants around your septic tank or along the route of your drainage lines indicates wet areas, as does a spongy or damp feel to the ground. Excess moisture might mean that your tank is full or that your drainage pipes are damaged.

Can you plant on top of a leach field?

Planting over a septic leach field (drain field) is possible if it is done with care. Growing shallow-rooted plants over the drainage area is recommended because they help remove excess moisture and nutrients from the soil and reduce erosion.

Can I level my leach field?

Yes you can. You just have to ensure that the the surface level of the septic flushes with the ground level so that the storm water doesn’t get in it.

Why is grass green over septic tank?

Greener grass over the septic tank may be the result of someone seeding that area if the tank cover was excavated for service. A backing up pipe to leachfield (or worse, a failing leachfield) could cause effluent to drain too slowly out of the septic tank or back up even into the building.

How do I know my septic tank is full?

Here are some of the most common warning signs that you have a full septic tank:

Your Drains Are Taking Forever.
Standing Water Over Your Septic Tank.

Bad Smells Coming From Your Yard.
You Hear Gurgling Water.
You Have A Sewage Backup.

How often should you empty your septic tank?

How deep are drain fields buried?

A typical drainfield trench is 18 to 30 inches in depth, with a maximum soil cover over the disposal field of 36 inches.

Increase grade above septic/leach field?

The Sun, July 21, 2019, 4:53 p.m., LawnInAK wrote: I’m getting ready to tackle the opposite side of the house, which has the septic system. One or two of my neighbors (who are also new construction) decided to go ahead and pay landscaping professionals to hydroseed their lawns. I’ve seen that the landscapers placed a substantial amount of soil (in some cases, what appears to be a couple of feet) on top of the septic system before planting the lawn. I’m thinking this is done to prevent rain/snow from pooling on top.

What should I do in this situation?

I’d recommend obtaining a copy of your system’s septic plan from your local municipal government.

I can’t think Alaska would be much different in that sense, but I don’t have any first-hand knowledge of the situation to say for certain.

In addition, your local municipality is likely to have a code inspector on hand who can likely address some of your queries as well.

However, not all septic systems are created equal; depending on the type of system you have installed and how deep the current topsoil is above the septic field, you may be able to add a couple of feet of soil without encountering any problems, or you may only be able to add a few inches more without encountering any problems.

However, a tractor or a bobcat skid steer can be heavy enough to smash pipelines, distribution boxes, and other such objects.

(A wheelbarrow, shovel, and rake are likely to be the most useful equipment.) However, it is probable that more than 6 people are involved “a lack of topsoil might result in complications.

(See this EPA paper for further information.) Personally, I would look into how much topsoil was supposed to be over your drain field (also known as a “leach field”), check to see how much is actually there, and add more if you don’t already have at least 8 inches of topsoil over your drain field (also known as a “leach field.” “in front of and over the sand and rock of the drain field It is important to note that while regrading near a septic field, you should take care to ensure that the grading does not redirect rainwater or snow melt into the septic field and that there is no “ponding” on the septic field.

How much dirt goes in a septic field?

Asked in the following category: General The most recent update was made on February 28th, 2020. Septic drain fields (also known as aleach fields) are made up of a network of perforated pipes that are sunk in trenches and filled with aggregates (12- to 212-inch gravel or 12-4-inch rubber chips), soil, and other materials. These drainlines are normally 18 to 36 inches wide and 6 inches deep, with a minimum depth of 6 inches. the level of soil backfill over the septic tank lid or septic tankriser lid, which can range from 0″ (which indicates that you should be able to see it) to a few inches (which indicates that the grass in this region may be dead) to 6-12″ or even more.

In a normal septic drainfield trench, the depth ranges from 18 to 30 inches, with a maximum soil cover over the disposalfield of 36 inches “Alternatively, according to the USDA, 2 feet to 5 feet in depth.
Just to clarify, can I cover my drain field with dirt?
When it comes to coverage, drain fields are typically built to function with 18 to 24 inches of coverage, unless they have been developed to cope with certain soil types.

To be more specific, the following is how a standard conventionalsepticsystem operates: All of the water that leaves your home drains through a single main drainage line into an aseptic tank.
It is a shallow, covered hole dug in unsaturated soil that is used as a drainage field.

Can You Put Dirt on Top of a Sunken Drain Field?

The principal method of disposing of home wastewater in many regions outside of the reach of municipal sewage systems is through septic systems. It is possible to temporarily disguise a problem by putting dirt on top of a leach field; however, the true answer to mending the system involves thorough examination and cleaning, as well as repairs or replacement of faulty components. While a freshly built tank may sink and require a little amount of more dirt to level the grass, the drain field should not require any additional material to be added on top of the soil already present.

Tip

A freshly built septic system may require an additional inch or two of earth as it settles into the landscape, but an existing system should not have dirt put over the drain field to prevent it from failing.

About Septic Systems

Homes constructed outside of towns and cities with a municipal sewer system must be equipped with a means of securely disposing of wastewater generated by sinks, showers, toilets, and clothes washers. An effective septic system is almost always the solution. In addition to the tank, which holds the solids and first rush of wastewater, a septic system includes a drain field, also known as a leach field or leach lines, which transports the water away from the house and allows it to soak into the soil.

The grease builds up to the top of the tank.

InspectionAPedia states that up to 36 inches of loose dirt is put over the top of the gravel and pipelines.

Aside from that, surplus water evaporates from the drain field, so leaving the impurities in its wake.

Sinking Soil and New Installations

The soil around and above the tank, as well as the pipes going to the drain field, may settle once a new septic system is installed. It is possible for the soil to get sunken even after it has been well tamped because of the weight of the tank, which might occur after heavy rains or spring thaws. Although covering the inspection and access ports with a few inches of earth to smooth over any uneven places would not harm the septic tank, you should avoid doing so in the future. The drain field, on the other hand, is a different story.

Don’t add any more dirt to the field since it will interfere with the evaporation of any extra water that has collected there.

The University of Nebraska-Lincolnrecommends putting a little amount of dirt to shallow depressions in order to prevent puddles from accumulating.

Septic Drain Field Sinking

If the sunken area is more like a drain field sinkhole than a sunken region, you may need to have the perforated pipes repaired or replaced, whether they are new or old. The worst-case situation is that the drain field has failed completely and completely. A simple filling up of the sunken portions with soil or gravel will not resolve the issue. It will be necessary to either repair or replace the drain field. It’s possible that a vehicle was driven over the drain field and smashed the pipes, preventing the wastewater from draining all the way to the end of the leach lines and into the sewer system.

Eventually, a piece of the septic system may actually sink, or the soil may wash away, giving the area a sunken appearance.

Compacted soil obstructs this natural process and can result in sinking, wastewater discharge, and pollution of groundwater and neighboring wells, among other consequences.

In addition, only waste water and toilet paper should be flushed down the toilet.

5 Things Homeowners Should Know About Their Septic Drain Field

There are certain distinctions in care, usage, and budgeting that you should be aware of, whether you’re a new homeowner with an existing septic system or considering about purchasing or building a home without sewer hookups. This document outlines three ways in which your budget will be affected if your wastewater is treated using a septic system. 1. You will not be required to budget for municipal sewer service. Because the municipal wastewater system normally processes all of the water, the cost of city sewage service is sometimes determined by how much water you purchase from the city.

A large number of homes with septic systems also rely on wells for fresh water rather than municipal water, which means you’ll likely save money in that department as well.
It is necessary to include septic maintenance in your budget.

Although you are not required to pay the city for the usage of your septic system, you will be responsible for the costs of maintenance if you want the system to continue to function properly.
It is possible that these maintenance and repair expenditures will build up over time, so you may want to consider setting up an emergency fund to cover any unforeseen repair bills.
You’ll also need to budget for the cost of a single inspection and begin saving for the cost of a tank pump.

Spreading the expenditures out over several months is the most effective budgeting strategy, even for an expense such as tank pumping that does not occur every year, because it allows you to better estimate the costs ahead of time.
You may need to set aside money for septic tank replacement.

The tank and leach field may not need to be replaced if you have a reasonably recent septic system and plan to sell your home within a few years.

If, on the other hand, your home’s septic system is more than a decade old, you’ll want to start looking into how much a new system would cost you as soon as possible.

For example, if the previous owners did not do routine maintenance or if the system was installed on clay soil, the system may need to be replaced.

It is a prudent decision to begin putting money aside in anticipation of this eventuality.

When you have a septic system, you may use these three strategies to budget differently.

Make an appointment with us right away if you’re searching for someone to pump out your septic tank or to complete an annual examination of your septic system. Our experts at C.E. Taylor and Son Inc. would be happy to assist you with any septic system assessment, maintenance, or repair needs.

Proper Backfill for Septic Tanks

Receive articles, stories, and videos about septic tanks delivered directly to your email! Now is the time to sign up. Septic Tanks and More Receive Notifications After a septic tank has been installed, it must be backfilled in the proper manner. Backfilling all tanks with successively tamped “lifts” or depth increments of consistent gradation should be the standard procedure. The installer should ensure that the backfill material is devoid of clods, big boulders, frozen stuff, and debris, all of which can cause voids in the backfill material, which may enable the foundation to settle over time.

Each layer should be homogeneous in thickness, no more than 24 inches thick, and of roughly identical heights around the perimeter of the tank, with the exception of the top layer.

If the material being used is compactable, it should be compacted in order to prevent the earth surrounding the tank from sinking.
Backfill the tank with granular material until it reaches at least the midseam of the tank to ensure that settling is kept to a minimum.
Fill around a septic tank that has been compacted All pipe penetrations through all tanks must remain waterproof after the tanks have been refilled with water.

In order to provide a stable foundation for the pipe, the backfilled earth should be tapped.
Pipe joints should be laid atop native soil rather than in the excavation to avoid the risk of their settling in the future.
It is possible to sleeve pipes that may run over the top of the tank or through excavated portions (such as electrical conduit and/or return lines) to give additional support.

It is possible that the manufacturer of a nonconcrete tank will recommend or require that the tank be simultaneously filled with water to just above the backfill level in order to avoid uneven or excessive pressure on the tank walls during the installation process and to reduce the risk of the tank shifting position during installation.

It may be required to use a tamping tool to ensure that backfill makes adequate contact with and between tank ribs, but care must be given to prevent harming the tank during the process.

She has a master’s degree in civil engineering and a doctorate in environmental engineering.

Her responsibilities include serving as the education chair for the Minnesota Onsite Wastewater Association and the National Onsite Wastewater Recycling Association, as well as serving on the National Science Foundation’s International Committee on Wastewater Treatment Systems.

Send an email to [email protected] if you have any concerns concerning septic system care and operation. Heger will respond as soon as possible.

How much weight can you put on top of a septic tank?

It is important to remember that unless you have installed a septic tank with a “vehicle traffic rated” or “Highway Traffic Rated” strength cover, a typical concrete residential septic tank, designed in accordance with the University of Minnesota design guide (which serves as a typical standard), is built to support the weight of the soil covering the tank and a. Continue reading for the whole response. It is never a good idea to pave over your septic tank. Although soil compaction is not a big concern when it comes to septic tanks, there are additional risks associated with installing an unsecured septic tank below concrete or heavy vehicles.

Building on top of septic tanks is prohibited.

… Tanks hidden beneath a hardwood deck, pool patio, driveways, or even room extensions are not unusual for us to discover and investigate.
It is never a good idea to lay heavy materials on top of your septic tank lid, but light items that can be readily removed are a fantastic alternative for covering the lid.
Also, What is the maximum distance you may construct from a septic tank?

– A slab foundation, such as a garage, must be 10 feet from the septic tank and 10 feet from the leaching area.
Is it possible to construct a patio over a septic field?
The primary issues with building anything over a septic field are access to the area in the event that maintenance is necessary, as well as the possibility of damage to field lines.

17 Related Question Answers Found

The level of soil backfill over the septic tank lid or septic tank riser lid, which can range from 0′′ (which implies you should be able to see it) to just a few inches (which indicates that the grass in this region may be dead) to 6-12′′ or even more.

Can you put anything over a drain field?

You should never place anything heavy on top of your drainfield in order to protect the integrity and lifespan of the drainage system. . Compacted soil will make it more difficult for the drainfield to perform its intended function, which is to allow wastewater to gradually drain down into the groundwater through the filtering action of the surrounding soil.

Can I cover my septic tank lid with dirt?

The lid of the riser is typically placed a few inches below the level of the grass, which is a standard solution to this problem.

The lid can be covered with grass and a thin layer of soil or another gardening surface in this manner.

What can I use to cover my septic tank?

To keep the tank lid hidden from view, plant tall, natural grasses with fibrous roots around the mouth of the tank. Over the septic lid, place a light statuary, bird bath, or potted plant to attract attention.– Septic tank risers and covers are an attractive alternative to concrete since they fit in with the surrounding greenery.

How far away from a septic tank can you build?

What is the maximum distance a proposed house extension may be from a septic system? – It is necessary to have a full foundation at least 10 feet away from the septic tank and 20 feet away from the leaching area. When building a garage, the slab foundation must be at least 10 feet away from the septic tank and at least 10 feet away from the leaching area.

Should a septic tank lid be sealed?

What is the maximum distance between a proposed house extension and a septic system? – It is necessary to have a complete foundation 10 feet away from the septic tank and 20 feet away from the leaching area. When building a garage, the slab foundation must be at least 10 feet away from the septic tank and at least 10 feet away from the leaching zone.

Can you add onto a septic tank?

The most straightforward method of increasing the capacity of your septic tank while keeping connected to current sewer lines is to simply add another septic tank. This increases the wastewater capacity of your house while also providing your septic system with extra time to process the wastewater before it is drained.

Can you put mulch over septic tank?

Landscape fabric, plastic, bark, or mulch should not be put over a septic system since they might cause damage. These materials, such as bark and mulch, limit air exchange while also retaining excess moisture. Compaction can occur when more than a few inches of soil is placed over the drainfield, as in the case of raised beds, which reduces air circulation.

Can you put pavers over drain field?

The pavers may be placed over the top of a concrete septic tank, and if desired, they can also be placed over the top of the tank lid. The concrete tanks are typically capable of withstanding roughly 10,000 pounds of pressure. The lids, on the other hand, are a different matter.

How much dirt should cover a septic tank?

What can you put over a septic tank?

The ideal plants to use around your septic tank and drain field are perennials and grasses (including decorative grasses). Because of their thin root systems, they are less prone to infiltrate and destroy the subsurface infrastructure. Small, non-woody ground coverings are a wonderful choice for the same reason: they are low maintenance.

How much weight can go over a septic tank?

At any given moment, no more than one axle or two wheels may be above the tank. Exception: The minimum compressive strength of the concrete will be 5,000 pounds per square inch (35 MPa). This page was last updated 13 days ago and has 15 co-authors as well as five users.

Septic Tank Depth

At any given moment, no more than one axle or two wheels may be above the tank.

It is anticipated that concrete would have a minimum compressive strength of 5,000 psi (35 MPa). – Co-authors: 15 – Users: 5 (last updated 13 days ago)

How Your Septic System Works

Underground wastewater treatment facilities, known as septic systems, are often employed in rural regions where there are no centralized sewage lines. They clean wastewater from residential plumbing, such as that produced by bathrooms, kitchen drains, and laundry, by combining natural processes with well-established technology. A conventional septic system is comprised of two components: a septic tank and a drainfield, often known as a soil absorption field. It is the septic tank’s job to decompose organic matter and to remove floatable stuff (such as oils and grease) and solids from wastewater.

Alternate treatment systems rely on pumps or gravity to assist septic tank effluent in trickling through a variety of media such as sand, organic matter (e.g., peat and sawdust), constructed wetlands, or other media to remove or neutralize pollutants such as pathogens that cause disease, nitrogen, phosphorus, and other contaminants.

Specifically, this is how a typical conventional septic system works:

All of the water that leaves your home drains down a single main drainage pipe and into a septic tank. An underground, water-tight container, often composed of concrete, fiberglass, or polyethylene, serves as a septic system’s holding tank. Its function is to retain wastewater for a long enough period of time to allow particles to sink to the bottom and form sludge, while oil and grease float to the surface and produce scum. Sludge and scum are prevented from exiting the tank and moving into the drainfield region by compartments and a T-shaped outlet. After that, the liquid wastewater (effluent) exits the tank and flows into the drainfield. The drainfield is a shallow, covered hole dug in unsaturated soil that serves as a drainage system. Porous surfaces are used to release pretreated wastewater because they allow the wastewater to pass through the soil and into the groundwater. In the process of percolating through the soil, wastewater is accepted, treated, and dispersed by the soil, finally discharging into groundwater. Finally, if the drainfield becomes overburdened with too much liquid, it can flood, causing sewage to flow to the ground surface or resulting in toilet backups and sink backups. Finally, wastewater percolates into the soil, where it is naturally removed of harmful coliform bacteria, viruses, and nutrients. Coliform bacteria are a kind of bacteria that may be found in the intestines of humans and other warm-blooded animals, with humans being the most common host. As a result of human fecal contamination, it is a sign of this.

A septic tank is where all of the water drains from your home through a single main drainage line. An underground, watertight container, often built of concrete, fiberglass, or polyethylene, serves as a septic system’s holding tank. Its role is to retain wastewater for a long enough period of time to allow particles to settle to the bottom and form sludge, while oil and grease float to the surface and produce scum. It is also known as a settling tank. T-shaped outlets and compartments prevent sludge and scum from exiting the tank and migrating into the drainfield region.

An excavation built in unsaturated soil, the drainfield is shallow and covered.

As wastewater percolates through the soil and eventually discharges into groundwater, the soil takes, processes, and disperses it.
Finally, wastewater percolates into the soil, where it is naturally removed of harmful coliform bacteria, viruses, and nutrients.
As a result of human fecal contamination, it is a sign of contamination.

Do you have a septic system?

It’s possible that you’re already aware that you have a septic system. If you are not sure, here are some tell-tale symptoms that you most likely are:

You make use of well water. In your home, the water pipe that brings water into the house does not have a meter. In the case of a water bill or a property tax bill, you will see “$0.00 Sewer Amount Charged.” It is possible that your neighbors have a septic system

How to find your septic system

You can locate your septic system once you have confirmed that you have one by following these steps:

Taking a look at the “as constructed” drawing of your house
Making a visual inspection of your yard for lids and manhole covers
Getting in touch with a septic system service provider for assistance in locating it

Failure symptoms: Mind the signs!

A bad odor is not necessarily the first indicator of a septic system that is failing to work properly. Any of the following signs should prompt you to seek expert assistance:

Water backing up into the drains of homes and businesses
It is especially noticeable in dry weather that the drainfield grass is bright green and spongy. The presence of standing water or muddy soil near your septic system or in your basement

A strong stench emanating from the area surrounding the septic tank and drainfield

How a Septic System Works – and Common Problems

This Article Discusses Septic Tanks are a type of septic tank that is used to dispose of waste. Field Sizing and System MaintenanceProblems with the Leach FieldSystem Performance Questions and comments are welcome. See Also: Septic System Frequently Asked Questions Articles on SEPTIC SYSTEM may be found here. In locations where there are no municipal sewage systems, each residence is responsible for treating its own sewage on its own property, which is known as a “on-site sewage disposal system,” or septic system, more popularly.

One of the most commonly seen types of leach field is composed of a series of perforated distribution pipes, each of which is placed in a gravel-filled absorption trench.

SEPTIC TANK

The wastewater is collected in the septic tank once it has been discharged from the residence. Septic tanks are normally between 1,000 and 2,000 gallons in capacity and are composed of concrete, strong plastic, or metal, depending on the model. Highly durable concrete tanks, which should endure for 40 years or more provided they are not damaged, are the most common. Many contemporary tanks are designed with two chambers in order to maximize efficiency. Household wastewater is collected in the septic tank, where it is separated and begins to degrade before being discharged into the leach field.

In the tank, oil and grease float to the top of the tank, where they are known as scum, while solid waste falls to the bottom, where they are known as sludge.
Bacteria and other microorganisms feed on the sediments at the bottom of the tank, causing them to decompose in an anaerobic (without oxygen) process that begins at the bottom of the tank.

Solids and grease must be pushed out of the system on a regular basis in order for it to continue to function effectively.
Each gallon added to the tank results in one gallon being discharged to the leach field, leach pit, or other similar treatment facility.

A large amount of water delivered too rapidly to the tank may discharge untreated effluent, along with oil and particulates, into the leach field, where it may block the field and cause a backup.

Leach Field

When used properly, a leach field (also known as a “drain field”) is a series of perforated pipes that are typically buried in gravel trenches 18 to 36 inches below grade — deep enough to avoid freezing, but close enough to the surface that air can reach the bacteria that further purify the effluent (see illustration below). As little as 6 inches might separate you from the ground surface, depending on your soil type and municipal regulations. It is customary to cover the perforated pipes with approximately two inches of gravel and a layer of topsoil that is 18 to 24 inches in depth.

Grass is often sown above the ground.
The leach field is comprised of rows of perforated pipes in gravel trenches that are used to spread wastewater over a vast area in order to further purify it.

A bacteria-rich slime mat forms where the gravel meets the soil, and it is responsible for the majority of the water purification work.
Despite the fact that wastewater freezes at a far lower temperature than pure water, freezing is still a hazard in cold areas.
The leftover pathogens are converted into essential plant nutrients by these organisms, while sand, gravel, and soil filter out any solids that remain.

If the system is operating effectively, the filtered wastewater will return to the aquifer as naturally clean water that is suitable for human consumption at this stage.
Alternative systems may be permitted in situations when traditional leach fields are unable to function properly owing to poor soil conditions or a high water table.
Special systems may also be necessary in regions where there are flood plains, bodies of water, or other ecologically sensitive areas to protect against flooding.

SIZING THE LEACH FIELD

Using perforated pipes put in gravel-filled trenches, the drain field is sized to accommodate the number of beds in the house. In order for the system to function successfully, the leach field must be appropriately sized for the soil type and amount of wastewater, which is normally determined by the number of bedrooms in the house. In order for the liquid to seep into the soil, it must be permeable enough to do so. As a result, the denser the soil, the larger the leach field that is necessary.

Better to have surplus capacity in your system than to have it cut too close to the bone.
Septic tank backup into your house, pooling on the surface of the earth, or polluting local groundwater are all possibilities if the ground is incapable of absorbing the liquid.

Dense clay soils will not absorb the liquid at a sufficient rate, resulting in a backlog.
If the soil is mostly composed of coarse sand and gravel, it might drain at such a rapid rate that untreated sewage can poison the aquifer or damage surrounding bodies of water.
Alternative systems may be permitted in situations when traditional leach fields are unable to function properly owing to poor soil conditions or a high water table.

These systems sometimes cost twice or three times as much as a regular system and require significantly more upkeep. Near flood plains, bodies of water, and other ecologically sensitive places, special systems may also be necessary to protect people and property.

SEPTIC SYSTEM CAREMAINTENANCE REQUIRED

If you take good care of your system, you will be rewarded with years of trouble-free operation. Pumping the septic tank on a regular basis is necessary to remove the particles (sludge) and grease layer (scum) that have built up in the tank. The solids will ultimately overflow and spill into the leach field, decreasing its efficacy and diminishing its lifespan if this is not done. The rehabilitation of a clogged leach field is difficult, if not impossible; thus, constant pumping is essential!

Cooking fats, grease, and particles may also wash into the leach field if the tank is too small for the amount of water being used or if the tank is overcrowded on a regular basis.
Extra water from excessive residential consumption or yard drainage can overwhelm the system, transporting oil and particles into the leach field and causing it to overflow.

In addition, don’t try to complete a week’s worth of laundry for a family of five in a single day.
To minimize overburdening the system, the following measures should be taken:

Distribute your washing loads and other high-water-use activities across the week

And In the kitchen and bathroom, use low-flow appliances, faucets, and fixtures. Toilets, in general, are the source of the greatest amount of water use. Water should be diverted away from the leach field from the yard, gutters, and basement sump pumps.

In addition, refrain from flushing sediments, strong chemicals, and just about anything else down the toilet or sink other than biological waste and white toilet paper. Avoid using garbage disposals in the kitchen. If you really must have one, keep it for small non-meat bits only. Avoid flushing chemicals or paints down the toilet since many chemicals can destroy beneficial microorganisms or cause water contamination in the surrounding area. Avoid flushing the following down the toilet:

In addition, refrain from flushing solids, strong chemicals, and just about anything else down the toilet or sink other than biodegradable trash and white toilet tissue. Use of garbage disposals should be avoided. Only use it for small non-meat leftovers, if you really must have one. Chemicals and paints should not be flushed down the toilet since many of them might kill beneficial microorganisms or cause water contamination in the surrounding area. These items should not be flushed down the toilet.

It is preferable to put grass over the leach field and to refrain from driving or parking in the vicinity. Excessive weight placed on top of the drain field might compress the earth, diminishing its efficiency as a drain field. Drain pipes can also become clogged by trees and plants with invasive roots. In order to prevent damage to the leach field, the following measures should be taken:

Heavy machinery should not be driven, parked, or stored on top of the leach field (or septic tank). Placement of a deck, patio, pool, or any other sort of construction over the leach field is prohibited. Remove any large trees or other plants with deep roots from the leach field. Grass is the most effective groundcover.

Even with careful use and routine maintenance, however, leach fields are not guaranteed to survive indefinitely. It is inevitable that the soil will get saturated with dissolved elements from the wastewater, and that the soil will be unable to absorb any more incoming water. The presence of an odorous wet area over the leach field, as well as plumbing backups in the house, are frequently the first indicators that something is wrong. Many municipalities mandate septic system designs to incorporate a second “reserve drain field” in the case that the first field fails.

A well constructed and maintained system should last for at least 20 to 30 years, if not longer than that. After a few tears, the initial field will naturally heal and may be used once again when the situation calls for it to be. More information on Septic System Maintenance may be found here.

SEPTIC SYSTEM PERFORMANCE PROBLEMS

Poor original design, abuse, or physical damage, such as driving heavy trucks over the leach field, are the root causes of the majority of septic system issues. The following are examples of common situations that might cause a septic system to operate poorly: Plumbing in the home. obstructed or insufficient plumbing vents, a blockage between the home and the septic tank, or an insufficient pitch in the sewer line leading from the house are all possible causes. Sewage tank to leach field connection Septic tank and leach field blockage caused by a closed or damaged tank outlet, a plugged line leading to the leach field caused by tree roots, or a blockage caused by sediments that overflowed from the tank Piping in the leach field.

Most of the time, tree roots do not make their way through the gravel bed and into the perforated pipe.
Reduced flows, achieved through the use of flow restrictors and low-flow faucets and fixtures, may be beneficial.
Because of the seasonal high water table, the soil around the trenches might get saturated, reducing the soil’s ability to absorb wastewater.
This may frequently be remedied by adding subsurface drains or curtain drains to intercept the water flow into the leach field region and to lower the water table in the immediate area around the drainage system.
Likewise, see: In order to do a perc test, who should I hire?
Is It Possible for Septic Systems to Last a Lifetime?
Performing an Inspection on a Septic System When Is the Best Time to Take a Perc Test?
Examination of the WellSEPTIC SYSTEMView allSEPTIC SYSTEMarticles Return to the top of the page

Why Is There Dead Grass Over My Septic Tank?

iStock/Getty Images image credit: singjai20/iStock

The presence of dead grass above your septic tank is, strangely enough, a favorable indicator. It indicates that your septic system is most likely operating as it should be doing. In dry or warm weather, the grass becomes brown because it is not receiving enough water, which is mainly owing to the shallow layer of soil above the tank. Watering the brown grass, on the other hand, is the worst thing you can do.

Tip

In dry or hot weather, dead grass above the septic tank shows that the septic drain field is absorbing and filtering the wastewater into the surrounding soil.

When the temperature cools down and the rainy season approaches, the grass will begin to recover.

Don’t Water the Dead Grass

During dry or hot weather, dead grass above the septic tank shows that the septic drain field is collecting the wastewater and filtering it into the soil. When the temperature cools down and the rainy season approaches, the grass will begin to restore its appearance.

Precautions and Septic Tanks

Make sure not to dig too far into the ground while planting over your septic system. Drain lines can be as near to the surface of the soil as 6 inches. Drain lines are not always visible. When working with soil over a septic system, it is important to use gloves, safety goggles, and a mask in order to limit exposure to potentially hazardous organisms. Make certain that the tank lid and any other covers or hatches are properly secured; accessing a septic tank can be a life-threatening mistake owing to the fumes released by the decaying sludge.

It is recommended to use ornamental grasses and herbaceous plants such as catmint (Nepeta spp.

in zones 3-9), and vervain (Verbena spp.

You should avoid planting any produce over a sewer system since you run the danger of bacterial contamination of your food.

Septic Drain Field

If you have a septic system installed on your property, you have complete control over the drainage and disposal of waste water. You are also not subject to the costs and restrictions associated with a shared public municipality with which you are not affiliated. With proper maintenance, a septic tank and its accompanying drain field can endure for up to 20 years or more. In the drain field or leach field, wastewater is absorbed into the earth, and this is what is known as leaching. Depending on the percolation rate of your soil and the size of your home, this one-of-a-kind component may take up a significant percentage of your land.

In regards to activities around your drain field, there are several things you should and shouldn’t do.

Do’s Around the Drain Field

Many property and house owners have no difficulty with the fact that they are sharing a place with a drainage system. A drain field is often described as having the appearance of a smooth green grass. There is a complex system of perforated septic pipes, as well as layers of gravel and dirt, beneath the surface of the grass. As a result, the majority of drain fields are flat, open regions that are away from trees, wells, and other sources of drinking water. Activities above a drain field are permitted as long as they do not compress, perforate, or otherwise disrupt the soil above the drain field.

Play

Children and cats may run and play on the grass above the drain field without fear of being trampled.

Your family may walk on a well-maintained drain field without having to worry about stepping in pools of sewage or bacteria that could be harmful. Bicycles and tricycles are also suitable modes of transportation since they are not too heavy to compress or disrupt the ground.

Landscape

While grass is the greatest option for ground cover, there are several alternative options available. Because they require no upkeep, fertilizer, or irrigation, low-growing plants with non-invasive roots can be used to replace grass in areas where grass isn’t appropriate. Sweet woodruff, lamb’s ear, yarrow, and golden sedge are just a few of the plants that meet these needs while also looking beautiful.

Don’ts Around the Drain Field

While a drain field is not totally off-limits to humans and pets, some behaviors have been shown to impair the field’s capacity to operate. A few things that should never happen at or directly above this critical area are listed below:

Heavy Traffic

Heavy traffic compacts the earth in a drain field, which increases the likelihood of percolation pipes breaking. Never allow big animals to graze or horses to be ridden through your drain field. Automobiles, trucks, agricultural machinery, and other heavy vehicles must be kept fully away from the area.

Permanent Covers

Heavy weights, as well as permanent coverings, can cause significant harm to a drain field. Compaction caused by decks, sheds, barns, and other edifices causes damage to the drain field. Even concrete or gravel paths prevent oxygen from reaching the drain field and aiding in the decomposition of germs.

Gardens

The temptation to plant vegetables or other sorts of crops in a vast drain field may be too strong to resist. Unfortunately, due of the damaging nature of rototilling, fertilizers, irrigation, and the thick roots inherent in garden plants, the area above a drain field is the worst site to do so. Aside from that, your edible veggies run the danger of being contaminated by bacteria from the drain field.

Landscaping

The temptation to plant vegetables or other sorts of crops in an enormous drain field may be strong. Unfortunately, due of the damaging nature of rototilling, fertilizers, irrigation, and the deep roots that are inherent in garden plants, the area above a drain field is the worst site to accomplish this. Furthermore, your edible veggies run the danger of being contaminated by bacteria from the drain field.

Septic System Owner’s Guide

What kind of computer system do you have? In North Carolina, there are many distinct types of septic systems in use, but the vast majority of the over 2 million systems in use throughout the state are minor variations of the typical septic system. This system includes a septic tank as well as a drainfield that is filled with gravel (usually two to six trenches). Since the mid- to late-1990s, classic gravel aggregate trenches have been phased out in favor of innovative gravel-less trench designs, which have become increasingly popular.

Some of the most often used gravel-free trenches nowadays are either long and narrow, tunnel-shaped chambers in the trenche, or gravel replacements such as expanded polystyrene aggregate.
A booklet from the Cooperative Extension Service, AG-439-13, Septic Systems and Their Maintenance, outlines the typical system, easy adjustments to it, and the most significant maintenance requirements.
The application of these technologies is now widespread, whether in new housing projects or in the replacement or repair of malfunctioning septic systems in residences and businesses.
In order to address this, state regulations provide specified maintenance requirements for a number of these more advanced technology.
Furthermore, state regulations mandate that the health department examine these systems on a regular basis.
Are you familiar with the location of your septic system and repair area?
If you do not have a copy of your septic system permit or a soil evaluation document, contact your local health department.

This Septic System Owner’s Guidefile folder should contain the following items: It is normally possible to establish the location of a septic tank and drainfield by looking at a copy of the permit and consulting with a septic contractor, a consultant, or the local health department A “repair area or replacement area,” in which a second drainfield might be constructed if necessary, has been required on nearly all home sites approved since the early 1980s, according to state law.

It should be noted on your septic system permit that this repair area was designated by the health department when the site was allowed.

Some Important Facts to Understand About Your Septic System

In what form of septic system do you have
Where is it situated
And where is the repair area situated? Is the septic system up and running? In the past, has it been kept up to date? What can you do on a day-to-day basis to ensure that your system continues to function properly? What kind of maintenance will be required in the future

On the grid labeledSeptic System Layout, draw a rough sketch of your home, septic system (including both the tank and drainfield), repair area, and any other essential features (such as your driveway). The distance between the home and the access port on the septic tank should be measured and recorded when having your septic tank drained. This will assist you in locating it again. You may also want to indicate the position of your tank as well as the limits of your drainfield in your yard. If you do not have a riser installed over the access port for your septic tank, you may want to consider having one put in.

Even when properly maintained, septic tanks can contain harmful gases and pollutants, as well as bacteria and other germs that can cause major health problems if not addressed.
Is your septic system in proper functioning order?
Many individuals are unaware that untreated sewage that has accumulated on the surface of the ground might be a health threat.
Before fixing a malfunctioning septic system, you must get a permit from the local health authority, according to state regulations.
What kind of upkeep has been carried out?
If you are purchasing an existing house, you should ask the seller a few critical questions, such as the following:

What is the age of the system
What is the location of the tank and drainfield (they may or may not be on the same property or even on the same parcel of land)
When was the last time the tank was pumped
What is the frequency with which it has been pushed
Is it necessary to clean the “effluent filter” in the septic tank on a regular basis (effluent filters are required for systems established after 1999)
Has there been any indication of a likely failure? In what location can I get a copy of the permit and documentation proving how effectively (or poorly) the system has been maintained
Do you know whether any improvements have been made to the house that would necessitate expanding the capacity of the system? Is the system still operational, and if so, when and by whom was it repaired?

If the house has only recently been constructed, request that the septic system contractor give you with a “as built” schematic, which may include elements that were not included in the permit. If the house is equipped with a pump, request that the contractor and the local health agency supply specifics on how the pump was initially installed. In order to properly care for your septic system, you must manage it on a day-to-day basis as well as perform periodic maintenance and repairs. Layout of a septic system.

However, the drainfield does not have an indefinite capacity. The average daily water use per person is 50 gallons. Even for brief periods of time, the soil drainfield has a maximum daily design capacity of 120 gallons per bedroom, which is routinely exceeded. Overloads can occur at any time of year, on a daily basis, or on weekends. Fix any leaky faucets or toilets you may have. Water conservation will help you get more use out of your system.

Keep waste disposal to sewage alone.

It is not acceptable to utilize your septic tank as a garbage can for items such as cigarette butts, tissues, feminine hygiene products, cotton swabs, cat litter, coffee grinds, or disposable diapers. Reduce the amount of time you use your garbage disposal. These contribute a significant amount of additional solids. It is not recommended to throw fat or cooking oil down the drain. You should avoid putting toxic chemicals into your system, such as solvents and oils. You should avoid using paint thinners and paint thinners that have been dumped. You should avoid disinfectants and pesticides. Conserve your funds. Most of the time, commercial septic tank additives are not required.

It is not acceptable to utilize your septic tank as a garbage can for items such as cigarette butts, tissues, feminine hygiene products, cotton swabs, cat litter, coffee grinds, or disposable diapers; Use of your waste disposal should be limited. Solids are significantly increased as a result of these additions. It is not acceptable to throw fat or cooking oil down the drain. You should avoid putting dangerous chemicals into your system, such as solvents and oils. You should avoid using paint thinners and abandoned pharmaceuticals.

Conserve your resources by cutting back on expenses.

In most cases, commercial septic tank additives aren’t required.

Maintain a layer of plants on the soil over the drainfield to prevent soil erosion from occurring. Don’t drive your car above the system’s limits. Try to avoid building over the system or in the repair area. The natural shape of the terrain immediately downslope of the system should be preserved, and this region should be protected against excavation (cutting and filling). Neither asphalt nor concrete should be used to cover the tank or drainfield.

All wastewater should be disposed of in a system that has been authorized.

You shouldn’t install a separate pipe to transport washwater to a side ditch or into the woods. This is against the law

The house and the yard (site maintenance)

Conserve and preserve the area where your septic tank and drainfield are located
Trees that thrive in moist environments should be cut down and removed. Willows, elms, sweetgums, and certain maples are examples of such trees. Surface water should be diverted away from the tank and drainfield by landscaping the yard. Inspect the system to make sure that water from the roof, gutter, and foundation drains does not overflow
It is recommended that if your system is located at the base of a slope, you build a french drain to channel subterranean water. Ensure that drainage ditches, subsurface tiles, and drainage outlets are kept in good condition so that water may readily flow from them.

Sewage treatment system (Septic tank)

Drainage system sewage system sewage disposal system

Preventive Maintenance Record
Date	Work Done	Firm	Cost

Your Septic System Installer

Name:

Address:

Phone:

Date System Installed:

If sewage is backing up into your toilets, tubs, or sinks, call a plumber. Slowly draining fittings, especially after it has rained
Slow-draining fixtures A foul odor associated with damp soil or sewage dumped onto the ground or into neighboring ditches or wooded areas
Please keep in mind that sewage from pump systems may rise to the surface of the ground when the pump is switched on and then disappear when the pump is turned off. This is still a failure of the system, and it must be fixed. a red light blinking or beeping in the home or in the yard, signaling that a pump is not functioning correctly or that the water level in a pump tank is excessive and on the verge of failing
A rise in the number of diseases or illnesses related with swimming in nearby lakes or rivers

Regulations and safeguards are necessary.

Any system that includes a pump should be operated by a state-certified subsurface system operator. In the case of low pressure pipe (LPP) systems erected or repaired after July 1, 1992, as well as underground drip irrigation systems, aerobic treatment units (ATUs), peat biofilters, sand biofilters, textile biofilters, and other sophisticated systems, a permit will be required by law. Those interested in obtaining a list of state-certified subsurface system operators should contact the North Carolina Water Pollution Control System Certification Commission at 919-707-9089. Between planned maintenance visits, check to see that the pump and electrical components are still in proper operating order. Germs found in sewage have the potential to cause disease. Never go into a septic tank unless absolutely necessary. Toxic and explosive gases are present in the tank, posing a threat. Tanks that are more than a decade old may collapse. Electrical controls provide a risk of electric shock and sparking. Children should not be able to open the septic tank lid, hence it should be secured. Do not attempt to repair a malfunctioning system on your own time. Obtain a repair permit and employ a contractor with extensive expertise

For further information about septic systems, speak with an Extension agent in your county or the local public health agency. This paper is an updated version of a previous publication. It is with gratitude that we acknowledge Tom Konsler (Orange County Health Department), Deanna Osmond, Mitch Woodward, and Grace Lawrence (North Carolina Cooperative Extension) for their contributions to the document’s peer review, as well as Debra Ireland for her work on the document’s graphic design, layout, and editing.