- Consequently, how do you use copper sulfate in a septic tank? Flush 2 pounds of granular copper sulfate down the toilet for every 300 gallons of water that the septic tank holds. Copper sulfate kills and dissolves tree roots as they absorb the tank’s water.
How much copper sulfate do I put in my septic tank?
Copper sulfate has been added to septic tanks in tests without harming the bacterial action in the tanks. The recommended amount is two pounds in a 300-gallon tank no more than twice a year. Most of it will settle in the solids in the tank, not the lateral lines, where tree roots may be the worst.
How long does it take copper sulfate to kill roots in a sewer line?
It can take as little as two or three days to clear out the line. However, if your system has a slower flow of water, it can take a bit longer (up to a week) to get rid of the roots. By contrast, copper sulfate takes up to four weeks to even start the process of root decay.
What does copper sulfate do for a septic system?
Copper sulfate crystals can be flushed down the toilet to destroy existing roots or discourage the growth of new ones. The effect is not immediate, but when copper sulfate makes contact with tree roots, it gradually kills them and causes them to break off and decompose.
What is the best chemical to put in a septic tank?
Rid-X Septic Tank Treatment Enzymes Rid-X helps to prevent septic backups by continuously breaking down household waste — the natural bacteria and advanced enzymes start working immediately to attack paper, protein, oils, and grease. One pouch of is a one-month dose for septic tanks between 700 and 1,500 gallons.
How much copper sulfate should I put down my toilet?
Pour copper sulfate crystals of medium size into the commode or toilet stool in small amounts, about 1/2 cup at a time, followed by successive flushing of water until the crystals are carried outside the dwelling into the sewer line.
How often should I use copper sulfate?
It’s Best To Use Root Killer Every 30-60 Days For Preventive Maintenance. At Wilco Plumbing, our recommendation is to use copper sulfate to inhibit root growth and kill roots every 30-60 days.
Is copper sulfate hard on pipes?
Copper sulfate damages metals such as iron, brass and chrome, so keep copper sulfate away from those metals. In addition, never use copper sulfate more than twice a year. The more you use the crystals, the more likely damage will occur to the pipes. Copper sulfate is a dangerous and toxic substance.
How do you use copper sulfate in sewer lines?
Use copper sulfate Copper sulfate crystals can be found at your local hardware store or garden supply center. These crystals can be used to kill roots inside the sewer lines – by pouring one-half cup of crystals into your toilet, they can travel along the pipes until they come to the obstruction.
Is copper sulfate bad for sewer lines?
To begin with, copper sulfate can be dangerous. The roots enter the top part of the pipe, but most of the copper sulfate solution flows through the bottom. The copper sulfate doesn’t reach the majority of the roots, basically making it useless. OK, so cleaning your own drains with copper sulfate is a bad idea.
How long does it take copper sulfate to work?
Treating only one third of an area at over 48-72 hours will help avoid crashing your oxygen levels. Have you ever wondered what gets rid of algae in your pond or lake? There are a few things, but Copper Sulfate is the most used, and the most economical algae control available.
Can copper sulfate go down the drain?
Flush small quantities of dissolved copper sulfate down the drain, and use plenty of water. If you have large quantities of copper sulfate, rules for how to handle may vary depending on your location; consult your county environmental department for guidelines on how to handle the situation.
Can you buy copper sulfate?
I found copper sulfate at Home Depot as Zep Root Killer, which is labeled as copper sulfate pentahydrate and is sold with septic tank and drain cleaning chemicals (not with other garden root killers or with other plumbing chemicals). Less commonly, you can find copper sulfate granules sold as an algicide for ponds.
How do I increase bacteria in my septic tank?
Flush a packet of brewer’s dry yeast down one toilet on the bottom floor of your house once a month. The yeast will help add “good” bacteria to your septic tank and break down waste.
What is the best bacteria to put in septic tank?
Much like your stomach, septic tanks need good bacteria and enzymes to break down the solids that pass through it. These beneficial bacteria and enzymes can come from several sources, but our favorite is actually rotten tomatoes. These naturally occurring enzymes are proteins called Pectinase or Pectinolytic enzymes.
How do I reduce sludge in my septic tank?
How to Reduce Sludge in a Septic Tank Without Pumping
- Install an aeration system with diffused air in your septic tank.
- Break up any compacted sludge.
- Add a bio-activator or microbe blend.
- Maintain the aeration system.
- Add additional Microbes as required.
Septic System Owner’s Guide
What kind of computer system do you have? In North Carolina, there are many distinct types of septic systems in use, but the vast majority of the over 2 million systems in use throughout the state are minor variations of the typical septic system. This system includes a septic tank as well as a drainfield that is filled with gravel (usually two to six trenches). Since the mid- to late-1990s, classic gravel aggregate trenches have been phased out in favor of innovative gravel-less trench designs, which have become increasingly popular.
Some of the most often used gravel-free trenches nowadays are either long and narrow, tunnel-shaped chambers in the trenche, or gravel replacements such as expanded polystyrene aggregate.
A booklet from the Cooperative Extension Service, AG-439-13, Septic Systems and Their Maintenance, outlines the typical system, easy adjustments to it, and the most significant maintenance requirements.
The application of these technologies is now widespread, whether in new housing projects or in the replacement or repair of malfunctioning septic systems in residences and businesses.
- In order to address this, state regulations provide specified maintenance requirements for a number of these more advanced technology.
- Furthermore, state regulations mandate that the health department examine these systems on a regular basis.
- Are you familiar with the location of your septic system and repair area?
- If you do not have a copy of your septic system permit or a soil evaluation document, contact your local health department.
This Septic System Owner’s Guidefile folder should contain the following items: It is normally possible to establish the location of a septic tank and drainfield by looking at a copy of the permit and consulting with a septic contractor, a consultant, or the local health department A “repair area or replacement area,” in which a second drainfield might be constructed if necessary, has been required on nearly all home sites approved since the early 1980s, according to state law.
It should be noted on your septic system permit that this repair area was designated by the health department when the site was allowed.
Some Important Facts to Understand About Your Septic System
- In what form of septic system do you have
- Where is it situated
- And where is the repair area situated? Is the septic system up and running? In the past, has it been kept up to date? What can you do on a day-to-day basis to ensure that your system continues to function properly? What kind of maintenance will be required in the future
On the grid labeledSeptic System Layout, draw a rough sketch of your home, septic system (including both the tank and drainfield), repair area, and any other essential features (such as your driveway). The distance between the home and the access port on the septic tank should be measured and recorded when having your septic tank drained. This will assist you in locating it again. You may also want to indicate the position of your tank as well as the limits of your drainfield in your yard. If you do not have a riser installed over the access port for your septic tank, you may want to consider having one put in.
- Even when properly maintained, septic tanks can contain harmful gases and pollutants, as well as bacteria and other germs that can cause major health problems if not addressed.
- Is your septic system in proper functioning order?
- Many individuals are unaware that untreated sewage that has accumulated on the surface of the ground might be a health threat.
- Before fixing a malfunctioning septic system, you must get a permit from the local health authority, according to state regulations.
- What kind of upkeep has been carried out?
- If you are purchasing an existing house, you should ask the seller a few critical questions, such as the following:
- What is the age of the system
- What is the location of the tank and drainfield (they may or may not be on the same property or even on the same parcel of land)
- When was the last time the tank was pumped
- What is the frequency with which it has been pushed
- Is it necessary to clean the “effluent filter” in the septic tank on a regular basis (effluent filters are required for systems established after 1999)
- Has there been any indication of a likely failure? In what location can I get a copy of the permit and documentation proving how effectively (or poorly) the system has been maintained
- Do you know whether any improvements have been made to the house that would necessitate expanding the capacity of the system? Is the system still operational, and if so, when and by whom was it repaired?
If the house has only recently been constructed, request that the septic system contractor give you with a “as built” schematic, which may include elements that were not included in the permit. If the house is equipped with a pump, request that the contractor and the local health agency supply specifics on how the pump was initially installed. In order to properly care for your septic system, you must manage it on a day-to-day basis as well as perform periodic maintenance and repairs. Layout of a septic system.
- However, the drainfield does not have an indefinite capacity. The average daily water use per person is 50 gallons. Even for brief periods of time, the soil drainfield has a maximum daily design capacity of 120 gallons per bedroom, which is routinely exceeded. Overloads can occur at any time of year, on a daily basis, or on weekends. Fix any leaky faucets or toilets you may have. Water conservation will help you get more use out of your system.
Keep waste disposal to sewage alone.
- It is not acceptable to utilize your septic tank as a garbage can for items such as cigarette butts, tissues, feminine hygiene products, cotton swabs, cat litter, coffee grinds, or disposable diapers. Reduce the amount of time you use your garbage disposal. These contribute a significant amount of additional solids. It is not recommended to throw fat or cooking oil down the drain. You should avoid putting toxic chemicals into your system, such as solvents and oils. You should avoid using paint thinners and paint thinners that have been dumped. You should avoid disinfectants and pesticides. Conserve your funds. Most of the time, commercial septic tank additives are not required.
Ensure that the system is protected against physical harm (site maintenance).
- Maintain a layer of plants on the soil over the drainfield to prevent soil erosion from occurring. Don’t drive your car above the system’s limits. Try to avoid building over the system or in the repair area. The natural shape of the terrain immediately downslope of the system should be preserved, and this region should be protected against excavation (cutting and filling). Neither asphalt nor concrete should be used to cover the tank or drainfield.
All wastewater should be disposed of in a system that has been authorized.
- You shouldn’t install a separate pipe to transport washwater to a side ditch or into the woods. This is against the law
The house and the yard (site maintenance)
- Conserve and preserve the area where your septic tank and drainfield are located
- Trees that thrive in moist environments should be cut down and removed. Willows, elms, sweetgums, and certain maples are examples of such trees. Surface water should be diverted away from the tank and drainfield by landscaping the yard. Inspect the system to make sure that water from the roof, gutter, and foundation drains does not overflow
- It is recommended that if your system is located at the base of a slope, you build a french drain to channel subterranean water. Ensure that drainage ditches, subsurface tiles, and drainage outlets are kept in good condition so that water may readily flow from them.
Sewage treatment system (Septic tank)
- Tanks should be elevated if they are 6 inches or deeper below the surface. They offer quick and convenient access for solids measurement and pumping, as well as for cleaning the effluent filter. The rate at which sludge and scum build in the tank is measured. Make a note of this information and provide it to your expert pumper. Solids should be pushed out of the tank as necessary. Most septic tanks have two sections
- It is necessary to have them drained out. More information about pumping frequency can be found in the Cooperative Extension Service document AG-439-13, Septic Systems and Their Maintenance, which is available online. It is not necessary to wait till your drainfield collapses before having your tank pumped. By that time, the drainfield may have been completely destroyed. An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure when it comes to septic systems.
|Preventive Maintenance Record|
|Your Septic System Installer|
|Date System Installed:|
- If sewage is backing up into your toilets, tubs, or sinks, call a plumber. Slowly draining fittings, especially after it has rained
- Slow-draining fixtures A foul odor associated with damp soil or sewage dumped onto the ground or into neighboring ditches or wooded areas
- Please keep in mind that sewage from pump systems may rise to the surface of the ground when the pump is switched on and then disappear when the pump is turned off. This is still a failure of the system, and it must be fixed. a red light blinking or beeping in the home or in the yard, signaling that a pump is not functioning correctly or that the water level in a pump tank is excessive and on the verge of failing
- A rise in the number of diseases or illnesses related with swimming in nearby lakes or rivers
Regulations and safeguards are necessary.
- Any system that includes a pump should be operated by a state-certified subsurface system operator. In the case of low pressure pipe (LPP) systems erected or repaired after July 1, 1992, as well as underground drip irrigation systems, aerobic treatment units (ATUs), peat biofilters, sand biofilters, textile biofilters, and other sophisticated systems, a permit will be required by law. Those interested in obtaining a list of state-certified subsurface system operators should contact the North Carolina Water Pollution Control System Certification Commission at 919-707-9089. Between planned maintenance visits, check to see that the pump and electrical components are still in proper operating order. Germs found in sewage have the potential to cause disease. Never go into a septic tank unless absolutely necessary. Toxic and explosive gases are present in the tank, posing a threat. Tanks that are more than a decade old may collapse. Electrical controls provide a risk of electric shock and sparking. Children should not be able to open the septic tank lid, hence it should be secured. Do not attempt to repair a malfunctioning system on your own time. Obtain a repair permit and employ a contractor with extensive expertise
For further information about septic systems, speak with an Extension agent in your county or the local public health agency. This paper is an updated version of a previous publication. It is with gratitude that we acknowledge Tom Konsler (Orange County Health Department), Deanna Osmond, Mitch Woodward, and Grace Lawrence (North Carolina Cooperative Extension) for their contributions to the document’s peer review, as well as Debra Ireland for her work on the document’s graphic design, layout, and editing.
Discrimination and harassment are prohibited at North Carolina Cooperative Extension, regardless of age, color, handicap, family and marital status, gender identity, national origin, political opinions, racism, religion, sex (including pregnancy), sexual orientation, or veteran status.
Root Deterrent Methods for Septic Tanks
Plant roots can be drawn to septic tanks in the same way as moths are drawn to a flame. Plant roots are nourished by the nutrients found in wastewater, which are mostly nitrogen and phosphorus. It is possible for plant roots to infiltrate a septic tank system through the microscopic breaches that enable water to flow out of the tank, causing significant financial harm. You may be able to discourage plant roots from entering your septic tank if you use a deterrent.
Root barriers are available in a variety of materials, including plastic and metal, but they must be buried at least 2 feet deep to be effective at deterring plant root growth. Some geotextile barriers provide two layers of protection in one package. Because they have been treated with herbicides, they not only provide a physical barrier, but they also provide chemical protection to discourage the growth of roots. Vertical trenches with root barriers are most successful when they are installed no more than 5 feet from drain lines or planting holes, according to the manufacturer.
Roots already in field lines and septic tanks are killed by copper sulfate. Roots attempting to penetrate septic systems are discouraged by copper sulfate. Because this chemical composition has the potential to corrode metal pipes, it should not be poured down the drain or into the tub. It is more secure to flush it down the toilet. For a conventional 300-gallon septic tank, two treatments of two pounds of copper sulfate are advised twice a year, for a total of four applications each year. Spreading out the treatment over a two-week period, according to the Oklahoma Cooperative Extension Service, is preferable to applying the full quantity at once.
Diverting roots along a “route of least resistance,” as the Clemson Cooperative Extension describes it, is a natural disincentive for keeping them out of septic systems, according to the organization. This can be accomplished by preparing the soil around plants, particularly trees, in such a manner that they are encouraged to grow away from field lines and septic tank infiltration. If you remove the dirt and broaden the space on the side of a tree that faces away from your septic system, you may be able to encourage the roots to develop more in that direction as a result.
When you schedule the installation of your root barriers at the same time as the installation of your septic tank, you will save time and money. Generally speaking, tree roots are incapable of bursting open a septic tank and penetrating its interior space. Instead, they look for fractures that have developed as a result of age, settlement, and the normal wear and tear of the system.
For the most part, these little gaps enable water and nutrients to flow out of the system, attracting small feeder roots. Roots develop and deepen the fractures that were previously there as they continue to grow.
How to Remove Tree Roots from a Septic Tank
A septic tank, which is the most important component of a septic system, is a huge, underground concrete tank that is mostly used as a personal sewage facility on suburban and rural estates, with the exception of some metropolitan areas. Household waste water from toilets and drains runs through pipes and enters the tank through one of the tank’s openings. The waste water decomposes as a result of bacterial activity before entering the tank’s opposite end and traveling through a filtering procedure to the next stage.
Tree roots are attracted to the water in a septic tank and frequently enter the tank through drainpipes or gaps in the concrete, causing clogging and other potentially hazardous problems in the process.
- Using a plumber’s snake, clear out all of the tree roots that are obstructing the drainpipes that go to the septic tank. A plumber’s snake is a long, flexible auger that is used in the plumbing industry. If you use this tool, you can break tree roots into little bits, enabling them to travel through your pipes and clear them out. For every 300 gallons of water that the septic tank can store, flush 2 pounds of granular copper sulfate down the toilet to decompose it. Copper sulfate is a chemical that destroys and dissolves tree roots when they absorb the water from the tank. Once a tank has been filled, the majority of the copper sulfate settles in the tank, with only a little amount making its way into the leach bed line. With the aid of a septic system specialist, pump the water from the septic tank out of the house. After the tank has been pumped, a plumber’s snake should be used to remove the tree roots that have infested the tank and drain pipes. It is not safe to physically enter the tank without adequate ventilation since the fumes from the tank might cause death. Large trees that are growing within 30 feet of the septic system should be removed. Also, as much of the trees’ root systems as feasible should be removed. The distance between trees and the septic system should be at least 50 feet.
Things You Will Need
Follow the directions on the copper sulfate container’s label to the letter. Copper sulfate is an irritant to the eyes and skin. After touching the chemical, make sure to thoroughly wash your hands with soap and water. It is recommended that you get your septic system professionally cleaned every three to five years. Fighting the roots of a tree that has taken up residence in a septic tank might seem like an ongoing fight until the tree is cut down and removed. Generally speaking, plumber’s snakes may be found at most plumbing supply outlets.
- Copper sulfate is corrosive and should not be used in thin metal pipes or drains due to the possibility of corrosion. If copper sulfate leaking into well drinking water is a problem, make sure the septic tank is at least 50 feet away from the well and that the leach field is facing the other direction from the well before applying copper sulfate.
Because I’ve owned and operated a septic system for more than 30 years, and I’ve worked as a real estate broker in rural areas for more than 20 years, I’m reasonably knowledgeable about them (but not a pro). As with many others, I use copper sulfate around three times each year to keep roots out of the drainfield. It is possible to direct-inject it into the septic tank, so why not follow my lead and do what I have been doing effectively for 30 years? Every 4 months or so, flush a cup or two of liquid down the toilet.
- Drain cleansers are acceptable for use on a septic system; however, avoid shocking the septic system with an excessive number of bacteria killers (excess bleach, paint, chemicals, etc.).
- You are not in need of them.
- Chemical drain cleaners such as Drano are typically only slightly effective when dealing with a complete blockage.
- DrainCare, for example, is an enzyme-based drain cleaner that is considerably superior than other types of drain cleaners, especially when it comes to septic systems.
- On the following morning, I normally start the flushing process by heating a kettle of water and then running the hot water faucet only for a short period of time.
- If a drain becomes slow, I keep it on hand and utilize it whenever the need arises.
- Their basic tip for upkeep is straightforward.
When the calendar year finishes in a five or a zero, I get my tank pumped out, and I’ve never had any difficulties with it. It’s the most convenient approach to remember when to do anything when you’re becoming old and senile like me. Wishing you the best of luck! Mike
Rid septic system of tree roots
DR. BARRY: DEAR BARRY: This week, we had a professional checkup of our septic system, which we had not had done since we moved here three months ago. The septic contractor discovered a massive mass of tree roots in the tank and advised that we flush around 10 pounds of copper sulfate down the toilet. We followed his recommendation. He asserted that this would eventually harm the roots of the trees. I’m afraid that the copper sulfate won’t be able to get rid of the roots, and that it will injure or kill the two enormous trees in my front yard if it isn’t used properly.
- –James DR.
- Mechanical removal of tree roots is possible, however copper sulfate is a more easier and less expensive alternative.
- When copper sulfate comes into touch with tree roots, it gradually kills them and causes them to break off and decay, but the impact is not instantaneous.
- As long as there are trees in close proximity to the septic system, roots will continue to infiltrate.
- By the way, copper sulfate does not often cause harm to trees or other plant life.
- Schedule the application to allow for the least amount of dilution and the greatest amount of contact time possible for the optimum effects.
- A dose of two pounds of copper sulfate per 300 gallons of tank capacity is advised for use with this product.
Make certain that this is correct.
If you want further information about septic system management, please see the following Web site: DR.
It was claimed by him that the water heater was in good working order.
Is my house inspector accountable for the harm that has occurred?
Starting with the fact that no one can predict when a water heater would finally fail, it is generally assumed that it will happen when the fixture is 5-10 years old.
If there was any part of the water heater’s condition that was not ideal, or if it was not properly installed, this information should have been given as effectively as possible.
The use of a pan is essential when installing a water heater in a position that is susceptible to moisture degradation.
Your inspector should have made it clear that there was no pan available.
In order to communicate with Barry Stone, please visit his website at.*** What is your point of view? Please share your thoughts in the comments section below or submit a letter to the editor. For further information on contacting the author, please see the byline at the top of the piece.
Septic gas belching past full p-traps/ Septic tank drainfield failing? Venting issue?
House on a split level in the country that is around 30 years old. Septic tank with a capacity of 1500 gallons I’ve been living in the house while it’s being renovated for nearly two years. It had previously been owned by my parents. Before I moved in and started remodeling, the house had been vacant for around 5 years. The first thing I noticed was a strong sewage gas stench coming from the bottom level bath vanity (vessel bowl.) This only occurs when the water is turned on and the gas instantly bursts through or “belches” beyond the p-trap seal.
- Later, it was discovered that this was occurring in the kitchen sink on the main floor of the house.
- Finally, I investigated the main bath on the upper floor (which has two basins on the vanity), and the stench is very faint.
- There is no siphoning of water out of p-traps at this time.
- Prior to the 5-year period during which the house remained vacant, I was not aware of any issues with the property.
- The original homeowner (from whom my parents acquired the property in the early 1980s) also constructed the majority of the house himself.
With the exception of the kitchen sink, which has its own vent branch into the main stack, none of the individual fixtures in the home have their own vent branch into the main stack (through roof.) The main stack really functions as a long wet vent, into which the majority of the waste lines are sent to discharge.
- They have both been subjected to a hose-down to ensure that water flows easily through them.
- I had a plumber come out to my house.
- But hold just a minute, there’s more: A little over three months ago, I had the septic tank drained.
- As a result, neither the inlet nor the outflow were examined.
- According to the “pumper,” it appeared to be unexpectedly not overfilled with solids.
- This septic tank is buried just behind the house and, to the best of my knowledge, it is connected to the typical drainfield.
- When heavy rains arrived, it was left open to act as a release point for a drainfield that appeared to be overburdened with water.
- However, I haven’t tried it by filling the tank with a large volume of water and seeing whether there is any “overflow” from this drainpipe, so I’m not sure how much moisture it is releasing.
I took the toilet out of the room (the very last fixture draining into the waste line before heading out towards the septic tank.) The toilet pipe was emitting a tremendous amount of gas when I had someone run water from the kitchen sink (on the main floor of the home) and I noticed it right away (as waste water ran down main stack and down towards this line on its way towards septic tank.) So.
- As previously said, this has not been an issue in the past, to the best of my knowledge.
- The septic tank smell is incredibly foul.
- Is it possible that the septic drainfield is deteriorating or blocked to a certain level and so not absorbing gases?
- It appears as though the gas is confined throughout the stack and does not entirely escape through the roof vent, which is understandable (s).
- If you have any particular follow-up inquiries, please let me know.
Or how about the other way around? In any case, I’m well aware that I’m talking about a significant financial commitment to correct the situation.
Best place to add copper sulfate to septic system? #202246
In our recent acquisition of a property, we discovered that the septic tank had not been emptied in about 20 years. The tank was pumped and a tree root had grown into it near the intake pipe, which was discovered during the pumping (between the pipe and the tank wall). There was no harm to the tank, and the root was successfully removed. I want to remove the tree that was the source of the problem, but I also feel it is prudent to treat the leach field with copper sulfate because we have a few of pine trees growing in close enough proximity to the leach field that their roots may be a problem.
My issue is, where is the most appropriate location to apply the copper sulfate?
In our tank, there does not appear to be a cleanout that connects the tank to the field.
We have a 1000-gallon storage tank on site.
Septic lines and tree roots
Greetings, Bill. Could you perhaps tell me more about copper sulfate and the presence of roots in septic lines? If that substance is dumped into a concrete septic tank, will it cause any damage to it? According to what I’ve discovered, we have numerous trees planted near our drain lines, and I’m concerned that their roots may eventually infiltrate our leach system if they haven’t already done so. Eucalyptus, mulberry, silk oak, and miniature fruit trees are among the trees that have been planted.
Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.
Copper sulfate is not only used to destroy roots in sewage systems, but it is also used to eliminate bacteria in sewer lines.
Cupola formulations are carefully crafted due to copper’s phytotoxicity, which can cause plant harm based on a variety of environmental variables.
Copper, on the other hand, is a micro-element that is required for plant development when present in trace levels.
They make no mention of the possibility that the copper will have an adverse effect on the concrete septic tank itself, but they do provide certain suggestions that appear to be realistic.
Copper sulfate should never be introduced into a septic system through a sink or bathtub because the copper will corrode the metal plumbing.
Copper has no effect on the surface of the ceramic material.
In a 300-gallon tank, the suggested amount is two pounds, which should be used no more than twice a year.
To begin treating the copper, flush it down the toilet 1/2 cup at a time for the first several days.
Depending on the system, a distribution box may be installed where the lateral lines are linked to the septic tank.
It is preferable to apply little doses every day over a two-week period rather than a huge amount all at once, according to research.
It is not a translocated herbicide, which means it will not destroy the entire plant.
Other sources recommend the product RootX as a possible substitute.
This product contains the active component dichlobenil, which is an aquatic herbicide that kills roots on contact and allows them to degrade in the septic system.
The installation of root barriers in vertical trenches between the trees and the leach lines might be an attempt to keep roots from getting into the leach lines and clogging them.
Keep in mind that roots can develop under a barrier, and they can grow over the top if the barrier is set too low or covered with a layer of mulch.
When roots develop through the perforations in the copper screen, they are pinched and come into close contact with the phytotoxic copper, which kills the tip of the root and causes it to branch behind the dead tip, causing the root to branch behind the dead tip.
It is a large topic in and of itself to discuss trenching and root trimming.
To be exceedingly succinct and at the risk of oversimplifying, I advocate trenching no closer than about five times the diameter of the trunk of any tree when excavating on only one side of the trunk in order to avoid the danger of injury to the health of the trees’ root systems.
Bill Pramuk is a certified consultant arborist with the International Society of Arboriculture. Visit his Web site, submit queries to [email protected], or give him a call at (212) 228-4000. For the holidays, consider the following: Sign up now to receive invigorating home and gift ideas!