How Many Gallons Of Water Does A Septic Chlorine Tank Hold? (Question)

Some bacteria and viruses are adsorbed (chemically bound) onto solid particles and held in the sludge or scum layers, allowing for limited removal of disease causing organisms at this stage. All purpose septic tanks are typically 3200 litres (700 gallons), with a capacity to hold 3000 litres of wastewater.

1125-1200 gallon septic tank configuration installed from late 1976 to present This tank can have 2 main 24″ lids or 2 main lids and 2 small baffle lids at both ends of tank directly above the inlet and outlet baffle, depending on manufacturer. You will be looking for 2 lids like these if there are risers to surface on the tank.

How many chlorine tablets do I need for a septic system?

The tablets should be inserted in the chlorination tube at the rate of 1 to 2 tablets per person per week, with no more than 4 or 5 tablets being inserted at one time.

How much chlorine can a septic system handle?

Moderate use of bleach will not throw your septic system out of balance. Moderate use is the amount used in one normal size load of laundry ( 3/4 cup ) or the amount used in an application of toilet bowl cleaner.

How much water is in a septic tank?

How Many People Can A Septic Tank Handle? It comes down to daily water usage. Most residential tanks have a capacity ranging from 750 gallons to 1,250 gallons and the average person uses 60 gallons to 70 gallons of water a day.

Is chlorine water bad for septic tanks?

Chlorine bleach in moderate amounts isn’t as bad for a septic system as you may have heard. But even a little drain cleaner may be terrible. One study found that it took nearly two gallons of liquid bleach but only about a teaspoon of chemical drain cleaner to kill the beneficial bacteria in a septic tank.

Where do you put chlorine tablets in a septic tank?

Chlorine tablets are added via an access port on the top of your aerobic septic system tanks. Usually there are two access ports, one for the chlorine, and one for accessing the aereation chamber. Depending on the system manufacturer’s model, the ports will either be secured by screw-on caps or latched caps.

What is the difference between pool chlorine tablets and septic chlorine tablets?

Swimming pool tablets, such as Trichlor (trichloroisocyanuric acid or trochloro-s-triazinetrione), are designed for immersion in water. In an aerobic septic system feeder, the tablets are primarily above the water line. Under this condition the tablets will release nitrogen chloride, a flammable and explosive gas.

What will ruin a septic system?

Any paper products like tissues, paper towels, tampons, or sanitary products, even some heavier toilet paper, will clog your system if you flush enough of it. Wet wipes are another product that you should never flush into a septic system.

Is 2000 Flushes safe for septic systems?

Yes. 2000 Flushes Automatic Toilet Bowl Cleaner is safe for plumbing and septic systems when used as directed. 2000 Flushes tablets should only be used in a toilet that is flushed regularly (at least once a week). See Product Package for complete information.

What is the best toilet bowl cleaner to use if you have a septic system?

For anyone on a septic system, the need to use a septic-safe toilet cleaner is very important. Fluidmaster’s self-cleaning 8202 Flush ‘n Sparkle toilet bowl cleaner is the best option for toilets with septic tanks.

Do septic tanks hold water?

The septic tank is a buried, water-tight container usually made of concrete, fiberglass, or polyethylene. Its job is to hold the wastewater long enough to allow solids to settle down to the bottom forming sludge, while the oil and grease floats to the top as scum.

Are long showers bad for septic systems?

Washing frequent, small loads of laundry or taking exceptionally long showers every day is all it takes to overload your septic system with too much water. The primary treatment tank needs time to break up solids before partly-treated water can enter the drain field.

Can I shower if my septic tank is full?

Only the water would get out into the leach field in a proper system unless you run too much water too fast. The thing to do is to run your shower water outside into it’s own drain area, but it may not be allowed where you are. Used to be called gray water system.

Is vinegar bad for septic tanks?

Will baking soda hurt a septic system? Baking soda and other common household solutions such as vinegar are not harmful to your septic system. Harsh chemicals such as bleach and ammonia can disrupt the good bacteria in your septic tank and should not be used as part of a septic treatment.

Can you pour milk down the drain if you have a septic tank?

If not the trash. A man who has a septic tank service told us to buy a gallon of whole milk and let it go bad a few days and flush it into the septic tank to feed the bacteria. He said to do this about once a month.

How can I increase bacteria in my septic tank naturally?

Homemade Septic Tank Treatment The ingredients required for this natural solution are the following: Water, Sugar, Cornmeal, and Dry Yeast. To concoct this mixture, first start by boiling roughly a half gallon of water. Add in 2 cups of sugar. The sugar will act as the first food your bacteria will eat!

How Much Chlorine To Add to Storage Tank To Kill Bacteria

Chlorine is a chemical that is both effective and inexpensive for sanitizing water storage tanks. We are frequently asked: How much chlorine is required for water treatment? What is the proper amount of chlorine bleach to use in my water tank? With the help of the charts below, you may determine how much chlorine bleach is required to disinfect and purify particular amounts of water, such as 1,000 gallons. Here we will discuss the chlorine to water ratio and how much chlorine should be added to drinking water in further detail.

Following the addition of the chlorine, the chlorine levels will begin to decline.

When testing the chlorine residual after 24 hours, make sure that the chlorine levels are 10 PPM or less.

For water storage, you should utilize a maintenance residual of 1–2 PPM to ensure that there is enough chlorine residual to keep the water safe.

Two Methods:Shock Chlorination Or Chlorine Maintenance Residuals

Shock Chlorination is a kind of chlorination that occurs quickly. Shockchlorination is the process of adding chlorine until the residual concentration reaches 50 to 100 PPM. In the event that your storage tank is being replaced, your well is being repaired, or you discover that the storage tank has been contaminated with coliform bacteria, this is highly advised. Shock chlorination will render the water unfit for human consumption until the chlorine levels decrease to 2–4 parts per million (PPM), which may normally take a few days to a few weeks depending on the temperature and water chemistry of the water.

It is preferable to use an automated chlorinator if you desire to automatically maintain a chlorine residual in your storage tank as freshwater flows into it on a regular basis.

What is the mechanism through which chlorine kills bacteria?

Continue with these processes and refer to the table below to determine the amount of chlorine bleach to use in order to achieve these residuals.

Step 1: Clean The Storage Tank First

Ensure that the storage tank or reservoir is clean. Remove any debris and clean any dirt or other deposits from the inside surfaces using a scrubber or a hose. If at all feasible, pump the water to remove any suspended sediments or foreign stuff that may have gotten into it.

Step 2: Use Strong Chlorine Solution

As much as is practical, clean the inside surfaces of the storage tank or reservoir, as appropriate, with an extremely concentrated chlorine solution consisting of 12 gal.

home bleach or 14 gal. pool chlorine for every 5 gal. of water. Make certain that there is sufficient ventilation. Enclosed places are hazardous, because they can result in disease or even death.

Step 3: Inspect For Damages

Cracks, leaks around the lid or man-way, and vents should all be looked for in the storage tank. In order to ensure that no insects, rodents, or other detritus enters the tank during normal operation of the tank and water system, ensure that the lid is tightly fitting and that any vents are adequately screened. In order to raise the chlorine residual in the water tank to the appropriate level, the chart below should be used to determine how much chlorine bleach to add to the water tank. For example, you may use the table below to figure out how much bleach is needed to disinfect 1,000 gallons of water and what chlorine to water ratio is required to treat water using the formula below.

You should only use the 50 to 100 PPM chart if you are doing shock chlorination on newly constructed or badly polluted storage tanks.

Storage tanks: Disinfecting with liquid household bleach (5.25% Sodium Hypochlorite)

If you’re using pool chlorine (12 percent sodium hypochlorite), cut the amounts listed below in half.

Storage Tank Gallons	Approx. parts per million of chlorine residual achieved by adding 5% chlorine bleach, in the amounts below. Numbers are rounded for easier measuring.1 Tablespoon = 0.5 ounce.
1 PPM	5 PPM	50 PPM	100 PPM	200 PPM
10,000	25.5 oz	1.0 gallon	10 gallons	20 gallons	40 gallons
5,000	12.5 oz.	1/2 gallon	5 gallons	10 gallons	20 gallons
2,500	6.5 oz	32 oz	2.5 gallons	5 gallons	10 gallons
1500	3.8 oz	19 oz	1.5 gallon	3 gallons	6 gallons
1000	2.5 oz.	12.8 oz.	1.0 gallon	2 gallons	4 gallons
500	1.3 oz	6.4 oz	0.5 gallon	1 gallon	2 gallons
250	4 teaspoons	3.2 oz	4 cups	0.5 gallon	1 gallon
100	1.5 teaspoons	1.3 oz	1-1/2 cups	0.2 gallon	0.4 gallon

Step 5: Drain and flush tank

If you are using greater quantities of chlorine, you should drain and flush the tank. Don’t dump chlorine-contaminated water down drains that lead to septic tanks, and don’t let it run into streams, rivers, or lakes. Remember to exercise caution if you have a steel storage tank, since corrosion may have developed over time and, once the tank has been cleaned, it may begin to leak. In order to shock chlorinate and disinfect a storage tank, combine non-scented NSF-approved household bleach (5.25 percent chlorine) in the reservoir at a ratio of 1 gallon of bleach for every 1,000 gallons of water, according to the manufacturer’s recommendations (i.e., 1 quart for every 250 gallons of water).

For storage tanks or cisterns that are fed by well water, use the following formula: Adding bleach straight to the storage tank while sanitizing the well is a good way to conserve water.

Drain the storage tank through a drain valve or through the distribution system after it has sat for 12 to 24 hours, depending on the temperature.

If you are unable to get NSF-certified chlorine bleach, you can substitute NSF-certified chlorine pellets or powder instead.

Storage Tank Gallons	Approx. parts per million of chlorine residual achieved by adding dry chlorine pellets in the amounts below.
1 PPM	5 PPM	50 PPM	100 PPM	200 PPM
10,000	1 cup	2.5 cups	5 lbs	10 lbs	30 lbs
5,000	1/2 cup	1.3 cups	5 cups	5 lbs	15 lbs
2500	30 pellets	2/3 cup	2.5 cups	5 cups	15 cups
1500	18 pellets	1/4 cup	1.5 cups	3 cups	9 cups
1000	12 pellets	32 pellets	1 cup	2 cups	6 cups
500	6 pellets	16 pellets	1/2 cup	1 cup	3 cups
250	3 pellets	8 pellets	1/4 cup	1/2 cup	1.2 cups
100	1 pellets	3 pellets	25 pellets	1/4 cup	1/2 cup

Useful Measurements:
1 cup = 8 fluid oz.	1 pint = 16 fluid oz.
1 quart = 32 fluid oz.	1 gallon = 128 fluid oz.
1 teaspoon = 1/6 fluid oz.	3 teaspoons = 1 tablespoon
1 fluid oz. = 29.6 milliliter (ml)	20 drops = 1 ml.

What Type of Chlorine Is Best to Use?

Additives are used in laundry bleach. In addition to determining how much chlorine to add to a water storage tank, you must also determine which sort of chlorine will be used in the tank. When it comes to sanitizing your water storage tank, there are three major forms of bleach that you may use. The most harmful alternative is to use Clorox, which is a common household laundry bleach. Aside from chlorine, this also contains other undesirable compounds. In this case, laundry bleach is a viable solution because it is effective and will disinfect your storage tank.

Liquid pool chlorine outperforms laundry bleach in terms of effectiveness.
If you are unable to get liquid bleach that has been NSF certified, you can substitute dry NSF pellets or powdered bleach instead.

Most home improvement retailers, such as Home Depot or Lowe’s, hardware stores, and spa and pool supply firms carry liquid pool chlorination products.
Chlorine Granules that have been NSF certified Chlorine granules with no additives make up an easy-to-use chlorine bleach that is NSF approved.

Calcium hypochlorite is a form of chlorine that may be blended with warm water and then placed in a storage tank. It is not recommended to use dry powdered pool chlorine, often known as Tri-Chlor, in your storage tank or in your well water.

Which Chlorine Test Kit Should I Use?

After you’ve determined how much chlorine to put in your water storage tank, you may want to have a chlorine test kit on hand in order to determine the amount of chlorine that remains in the tank after it has been chlorinated. Kit for Low-Range Chlorine Detection Test kits are useful for a number of reasons, the most important of which are as follows:

Because you can test the chlorine levels in your tank, you can determine whether or not you have added enough chlorine to it. If you need to use the water in your house, you can tell when the chlorine level has reduced to a safe level (less than 4.0 parts per million).

It is possible to purchase two types of chlorine test kits for home use. The first is liquid drop types (which employ reagents that are dropped into a test tube) and the second is test strips. Orthotolidine, which turns yellow if chlorine is present, is used in a standard low-range chlorine test kit because it is simple to use and has a short detection range. Although test strips are more convenient to use, our experience has shown that the reagent kind may be more effective for low range testing.

A low range kit allows you to test for chlorine levels if you are administering chlorine to maintain a low level residual, or if you want to know when it is safe to use the water after it has been treated.

Is Chlorine Dangerous or Bad for My Health?

According to the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention, the World Health Organization, and health authorities, chlorine levels in drinking water up to 4 milligrams per liter (mg/L or 4 parts per million (ppm)) are deemed safe. At this concentration, it is unlikely that negative health consequences would arise. There have been studies that demonstrate that showering and drinking chlorinated water during your lifetime may raise your risk of developing some malignancies; however, putting chlorine to your storage tank to kill bacteria and then draining the water out will have no adverse health consequences.

A variety of procedures can be employed to ensure that acceptable amounts of chlorine are present in drinking water.
Drinking water can originate from a number of sources, including lakes and wells, and it can be polluted with viruses that can cause illness in humans.

Drinking water is chlorinated by water corporations in order to keep it safe from germ infestation.
Make use of protective gloves and eyewear and avoid inhaling chlorine fumes or exposing your skin to chlorine vapor.

What about Hydrogen Peroxide?Can I Use Peroxide Instead of Chlorine?

You might be wondering if you can use peroxide instead of chlorine to sterilize your storage tank, but this will not be effective. Hydrogen peroxide can be used to disinfect wounds and abrasions to kill bacteria, however it is not an effective disinfectant for drinking water. As a stand-alone treatment technique for drinking water, hydrogen peroxide is only sometimes employed. When compared to chlorine or ozone, it is a fairly ineffective biocide. As a stand-alone disinfection treatment technique, it has not been authorized by the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) or other health authorities.

Send an email to our technical support department, or phone us at 1-888-600-5426 for assistance! More information regarding chlorinating cisterns and tanks may be found on the website of the Centers for Disease Control. How to utilize automated chlorinators in your home’s drinking water supply.

How Much Chlorine Should Be Added to a Storage Tank to Kill Bacteria?

If you’ve been using well water for a long time, or if you’ve followed this site on a regular basis, you’re probably already aware that chlorine is one of the most powerful disinfection treatments available. It is low-cost, safe, and very simple to administer in water systems, making it the preferred choice for households and municipal water agencies alike. Chlorine is not just useful in water; it may also be used to disinfect surfaces, pipelines, and storage tanks in your home treatment system, as well as in other applications.

Even more crucially, what constitutes “too much?” The processes for sanitizing and disinfecting storage tanks, as well as how to calculate the quantity of chlorine required for your application, will be covered today.
Remove any debris and scrubbing any dirt or other deposits from the inside surfaces with a hose.

If you have the opportunity, lower the chlorine levels in your tank to 5 or 10 parts per million and allow them to rest for 12 hours or more.

When utilizing these higher chlorine levels, be sure to drain and flush your tank, and avoid draining into septic tanks or into creeks, rivers, or lakes.

If you have a steel storage tank, be cautious since it might corrode over time with use and can develop leaks after being disinfected with chlorine.

If your well produces little water, you might want to consider having water trucked in.

Consider cleaning and sanitizing your tank at least once a year as part of your tank’s routine maintenance.

If you have any questions or comments, please e-mail us at, post a comment/message on our Facebook page, or use our online contact form to get in touch with us.

Calcium hypo-chloride and chlorinated isocyanates are now the two most common forms of chlorine tablets available on the market: calcium hypo-chloride and chlorinated isocyanates. Calcium Hypochlorite is a chemical compound that is used to disinfect water (septic disinfectant tablets) These tablets, such as Norweco’s Blue Crystal tablets (white tub with a blue top), are the only commercially accessible tablet product that has been labeled and certified for wastewater treatment, according to the manufacturer.

Additionally, the chlorine residual that remains in the water after disinfection dissipates quickly, ensuring that it does not pollute the receiving environment with harmful toxins.

Packing the pills into a smaller container or a plastic bag is not only against the law, but it is also exceedingly hazardous.

These pills may be purchased at Big Papa Joe’s Wastewater Systems, LLC, as well as from most home improvement retailers (these are normally found in the plumbing department). The bucket carries roughly 32 pills and weighs 10 pounds.

Guideline for Use:

One to two tablets per person every week, with no more than four or five tablets inserted at a time, should be introduced into the chlorination tube through the insertion tube. The tube, which has a capacity of 12 to 15 tablets, should never be filled to this capacity since the tablets are soft and humidity in the system might create the following problems:

The whole column of tablets should puff out and adhere to the tank wall, preventing the tablets on top from falling to the bottom of the chlorination tube. The effluent runs beneath the tablets without being disinfected as the bottom tablets dissolve
Or, the tablets disintegrate all at once and the effluent turns into a sticky mass.

There are certain households that will not fall into the 1 to 2 tablet per person per week recommendation range. You may need to take more pills at times, and you may need to use fewer tablets at other times. Are you a family that stays in the house during the day or does everyone go to work or school? Do you travel frequently? Do you have a lot of guests? Do you use the latest low-water-use laundry systems? Do you have a garden tub that you fill every day? And so on. It is not necessary to rely on your maintenance/monitoring company to disinfect your building!

Despite the fact that specific permitting agencies or situations may necessitate more regular inspections, the majority of them do not.

If the recommended dosage of 1 to 2 tablets per person per week is followed, with no more than 4 or 5 pills being inserted at a time, the risk of heart disease is reduced.

Think about the cost of having tablets installed for you by your maintenance provider.

The following dosages are recommended: 2 pills per week for 4 weeks x 2 tablets per week for 4 weeks x 4 weeks – you will be using 16 to 32 tablets in 4 months
3 tablets per week for 4 months x 3 tablets per week – you will be using 32 to 48 tablets in 4 months If you have four or more people in your family who each take three to five pills per week for four months, you will utilize 32 to 80 tablets in four months.

Installing the chlorine tablets yourself and keeping track of your own chlorine use is always the most efficient and cost-effective option. Because the pills will dissolve in proportion to the amount of water consumed by your household, you are the only one who has control over your water consumption. Even if enough pills were inserted in the tube to disinfect the water for four months, the monitoring firm would have no way of knowing how much water you were using. Remember, it is your family, not your service provider, who is at risk from the fecal bacteria present in your wastewater treatment plant if the water is not cleaned on a regular basis.

The fact that Tri-Chlor pills are widely available means that they are frequently found in wastewater treatment systems, despite the fact that their usage in these systems is both harmful and unlawful.
When used in swimming pools, where clean water is constantly recirculated and gradual dissipation of residue is needed, these tablets perform admirably; nevertheless, they are poor when used in waste water treatment.

The chlorine gas created by the Tri-Chlor tablets has the potential to harm and corrode the wiring in a wastewater treatment system, resulting in a potentially expensive repair job from the effluent tank to the control box.
When subjected to periodic flows of liquid, Tri-Chlor tablets, which are intended to be completely submerged in water, begin to breakdown and create a toxic gas known as “nitrogen trichloride,” which is very explosive.

These explosions have the potential to be devastating, inflicting considerable property damage as well as possibly life-threatening injuries.

LIQUID BLEACH CHLORINATORS

Sodium Hypochlorite at a concentration of 6 percent is an inexpensive method for sanitizing your wastewater (Liquid Household bleach) It has been over a decade since the maker of the Liquid Bleach Chlorinator (LBC) dispenser that we advertise and install for our clients noticed there was a need for a more dependable disinfection approach for households than what was already available on the market and patented the device.

In order to endure the severe effects of bleach, this LBC dispenser has been built and engineered to last for years with no maintenance.
The LBC will be installed underground near the pump tank, with a 4′′ cap above ground to protect it from the elements.
Every time the effluent pump is activated, the LBC will inject bleach into the pump tank to disinfect it.

This is a tried-and-true disinfection device that satisfies the applicable standards of NSF standard 46 for chlorinator devices.
The household dispenser has a capacity of around 3-4 gallons of bleach.
We can also provide a business model to our commercial customers if they so choose.

Aside from that, the Liquid Bleach Chlorinator will save you hundreds of dollars per year in chlorine costs, and you will no longer have to bother with chlorine pills.
These materials block the hose, preventing your LBC from pulling the bleach and causing your disinfection equipment to become dysfunctional.

Aerobic System Inspection and Maintenance LLC

Septic System FAQs Am I required to have a maintenance contract?Yes, it is a Brazos County law that you must keep up a valid maintenance contract at all times. If the County finds that you are not under contract, it could result in a court date and fines up to $500.What should I do if I’m buying a house with a septic system?When buying a home with a septic system you should request to have the system cleaned out and inspected. You want to start fresh in your new home by having the system cleaned out, and having an inspection done will ensure that the septic system is in good condition. If the system is not up to code or there are problems with it, the inspection will give you a chance to negotiate the proper repairs before closing on the property.What can I do to prepare for large gatherings during the holidays?Having a large number of people over for gatherings can be hard on your septic system. An aerobic system is designed for the size of the house and the number of people who live there. Large parties can easily overload the system and cause problems if your system is already getting full. To avoid any embarrassing situations, have your system checked and possibly cleaned out before the holidays.Should my septic system be making a noise?Your aerator will make a constant humming noise. But, if you hear a loud buzzing sound that means your septic alarm is on. First you should check your breakers to make sure power is getting to your system. If the breakers have not been tripped, call ASIM immediately. If the alarm is on, there is something wrong that should be checked out.Is my Aerobic system supposed to run all the time?Yes, your aerobic septic system is intended to run constantly. If your aerator or spray pump is not running, contact ASIM.Do I have to add chlorine to my aerobic system?Yes, it is the law. You must maintain a chlorine residual in your system at all times. Violating this law can result in a fine of up to $80 per day. The only way that the wastewater can be treated is for chlorine to be in the system. So, if you are not adding chlorine, it is spraying out untreated water.Where can I get chlorine tablets?Most larger home improvement stores carry septic chlorine tablets. You can also purchase a 10 lb bucket from ASIM. A 10 lb bucket typically lasts close to a year. If you buy a larger bucket, the moisture will begin to break down the remaining tablets in the bucket and they will go bad before you can use the whole bucket. Also, make sure you ONLY buy SEPTIC chlorine. DO NOT use Pool chlorine tablets. These tablets are made differently and can react with gas and byproducts in your septic system and have been known to explode.Why does my aerobic system smell bad?Some people are more sensitive to septic smells than others. If you are experiencing a sewage smell, that does not mean you need to add more chlorine to your system. This is typically a sign that your aerator is out or there is an aeration problem.Should the alarm and sprayers keep coming on during and after rain?Septic systems typically take in ground water when it rains. This can cause the water level to rise and trigger the high water alarm and sprayers. After the rain stops and water soaks in or runs off, most systems will correct themselves. If you still have a problem, call ASIM.Should my sprayers keep coming on during an ordinary day when there is no rain?If there is no rain water to raise the water level in your tanks, and your sprayers are going off frequently during the day, this is a sign of overloading or a plumbing problem. If you use too much water for the system to handle, it will spray. Also, if your sprayers are going off frequently and you are not using water in the house, check for leaking faucets or leaky/running toilets. This will add to the water level. SEPTIC SYSTEMS DO NO MAKE WATER. If the sprayers are spraying, something is adding water to the system.Since my septic system runs continually, will my electric bill go increase?No, an aerobic septic system uses about the same amount of electricity as a 100 watt light bulb.If there is a bad odor inside my house, that is a septic problem, right?No, septic odors inside the house are typically from a plumbing problem. A plumber is responsible for the area under the house, we are responsible for the area from the cleanout to the system.How do I mute the alarm?There is a button marked on your control panel box to mute the alarm. Anytime you mute the alarm, you should call your septic maintenance company. The alarm comes on for a reason and it should be addressed sooner than later.What can I do if my neighbor’s septic system stinks?If your neighbor has a smelly septic system and doesn’t appear to care or try to fix the problem, you can make an anonymous complaint to the Environmental Health Services division at the local Health Department.What to do if my electricity is out? If your septic system is a conventional system and no pumps are used everything should be normal. However, if you depend on a pump to move your treated water to another tank, disposal area, or if you have an aerobic septic system with surface spray disposal you should minimize water usage during the interruption in electrical service. Once electric service has been restored you may encounter a period of an alarm indicating there is too much water in a tank and after some period of time, which will vary from system to system and usually an hour or less, the alarm should clear itself and everything should return to normal.What can I do if my drains and toilet flushes are slow?Unfortunately during bad weather conditions there is not much anyone can do but if there is no electricity for a long period of time or the rains have caused some degree of flooding things could get backed up. The best thing to do is minimize water usage. If this does not help the last resort would be to locate your sewer clean-out. advise caution when doing this, and remove the cap. Weather conditions may prove to prohibit this procedure and also there could be pressure on the cap which could spray you with raw sewage. Taking the cap off will help relieve the possibility of a sewer backup in the house and let it go outside instead. Once the weather subsides and electric service restored and everything has returned to normal be sure to have your sewer clean-out cap replaced. Your septic service provider should assist you if needed.How often will I need to have my tank pumped?Not very often. An average family of four living in a three-bedroom house will need their tank pumped every three to five years. If your installer is a licensed septic contractor in the area, he should know exact guidelines for your home, usage, and locality.Or you can check with your county health department. If there are no major changes in your household and your usage is stable, you may want to consider a regular pumping schedule for best results with the least worry.Can I build over my septic tank?This is never advisable and is against most municipal codes. Do not build any additions, pools, or driveways over a tank.Also, do not build or plant on top of your drainfield.If I think there is a problem, should I open my septic tank?NO! Though septic systems are safe for your family, opening the septic tank without professional training can expose you to dangerous gases and bacteria. Call a certified and trained septic professional if you detect any problems in your system.What are the major dos and dont’s of maintaining a trouble-free system?DO THIS .Conserve water to reduce the amount of wastewater that must be treated and disposed. .Repair any leaking faucets and toilets. .Only discharge biodegradable wastes into your system. .Restrict garbage disposal use. .Divert down spouts and other surface water away from your drainfield. .Keep your septic tank cover accessible for tank inspections and pumping. .Have your septic tank pumped regularly and checked for leaks and cracks. .Call a professional when you have problems. .Compost your garbage or put it in the trash. DON’T DO THIS .Flush sanitary napkins, tampons, disposable diapers, condoms, wipes, and such products into your system. .Dump solvents, oils, paints, thinners, disinfectants, pesticides, or poisons down the drain. They can disrupt the treatment process and contaminate groundwater. .Dig in your drainfield or build anything over it. .Plant anything over your drainfield except grass. .Drive over your drainfield or compact the soil in any way.

How Sewer and Septic Systems Work

Many residents in rural regions who live in close proximity to one another and where a sewer system would be too expensive to create opt to build their own private sewage treatment facilities. Septic tanks are what these are referred to as. It is a simple matter of digging up the yard and placing an enormous concrete or steel tank there to collect waste. The tank may have a capacity of 1,000 gallons (4,000 liters) of liquid. Wastewater enters the tank from one end and exits the tank from the other end of the tank.

Anything that floats rises to the surface and produces a layer known as the scum layer on the surface of the water.
In the middle, there is a layer of water that is relatively transparent.
Wastewater enters the septic tank through the sewage lines in the home, as indicated in this illustration: Naturally occurring gases (generated by microorganisms breaking down the organic material in the wastewater) are produced by a septic tank, and these gases are not pleasant to smell.

Instead, the gases rise through a vent pipe; if you look at the roof of any house, you will find one or more vent pipes sticking through.
It is this water that drains from the septic tank and into the drain field.

Above is a schematic depicting an aerial perspective of a house, together with its septic tank, distribution box, and drain field: A typical drain field pipe has a diameter of 4 inches (10 centimeters) and is buried in a trench that is 4 to 6 feet (about 1.5 m) deep and 2 feet (0.6 m) broad, with a depth of 4 to 6 feet (about 1.5 m) and a width of 2 feet (0.6 m).

The amount of water that can be absorbed by the earth determines the size of the drain field.

In most cases, the only thing that powers a septic system is gravity.

It is a mechanism that is fully passive. “The grass is always greener on the other side of the septic tank,” you may have heard someone say. Actually, it’s the drain field, and the grass is indeed greener because it is taking use of the moisture and nutrients available in the drain field to thrive.

Septic Solutions – Frequently Asked Questions

Collin County law requires that you retain a valid maintenance contract in existence at all times, and this is a requirement under that legislation. It is possible to be fined up to $500 per infraction for operating your aerobic septic system without a legal contract, with each day being considered a separate crime.

2. Is there a maintenance contract that will cover everthing?

Yes! We provide three different degrees of service. Our services vary from the most basic of minimal coverage to the most comprehensive of all-inclusive coverage.

3. What do you inspect on a maintenance visit?

At each maintenance visit, your septic system is subjected to a thorough 16-point check to verify that it is operating properly. All of your filters and screens are cleaned on a regular basis. After the inspection is complete, a report on the performance of your septic system is posted on your door to keep you informed of the system’s functioning.

4. How do I know if my septic inspection is being performed?

Your maintenance firm should be placing a label in your control box and leaving a door hanger to inform you that they have inspected your system and found nothing wrong. If all of these steps are taken, but you still have a suspicion that your inspection is not being handled properly, place a small rock on the lid of your septic tank that will have to be removed in order for a proper inspection to take place. This will provide you the assurance that you are receiving the service that you deserve.

5. Is my septic system supposed to run all the time?

You are correct in that your aerobic system is meant to function on a continuous basis. Septic Solutions should be contacted if your air pump is not functioning properly.

6 If my septic system runs continually, will I have a large electric bill?

Not at all; the amount of power consumed by an aerobic septic system is comparable to that of a 100 watt incandescent light bulb.

7. Is my septic system supposed to be making a noise?

Your air pump will be making a constant buzzing noise throughout the day. In contrast, if you are hearing a loud, unpleasant buzzing noise, it is likely that your septic alarm is activated. Ensure that electricity is going to your septic system by checking your circuit breakers. If your breakers have not been tripped, call Septic Solutions right away to schedule an inspection.

8. Why does my aerobic system smell?

Aerobic systems emit a distinct odor that some people are more sensitive to than others, depending on their genetic makeup. Septic Solutions should be contacted if you notice a sewage or urine odor in your home.

9. If I have an odor inside my home, ist that septic related?

Septic smells that emanate from within the residence are almost always the consequence of plumbing problems.

10. What can I do if my neighbor’s septic system stinks?

It is possible to file an anonymous complaint with your local Health Department / Development Services if your neighbor has a stinking septic system and shows no sign of wanting to address the problem.

11. What do I do if an alarm and/or alarm light comes on?

Ensure that electricity is going to your septic system by checking your circuit breakers. If your breakers have not been tripped, call Septic Solutions right away to schedule an inspection.

12 Should my alarm and sprinklers activate continually during and/or after rain?

When it rains, the majority of septic systems absorb groundwater.

If your water level rises as a result of this, your high-water alarm and spray heads will be activated. The majority of septic systems will self-correct after the rain has stopped falling. If this is not the case, contact Septic Solutions immediately.

13. How do I mute my alarm?

To mute the alarm, there should be a button clearly indicated on your control panel. Make sure to unmute your alert as soon as your septic problem has been resolved.

14. How often should I have to replace parts?

The cost of replacement parts varies based on the kind of system you have and how well your septic system is kept up and maintained. Some aerobic brands need the repair of parts on a yearly basis. Keeping ants and rodents away from your septic system will help to extend the life of the system’s components. If you find that replacing components is a burden or an inconvenience, you might consider signing up for our Gold Service Plan.

15. Why are the air pump and water pump so expensive?

The pumps are high-end, precision-machined components. They are made and intended to endure harsh external weather conditions for an extended period of time, ensuring a long service life.

16. What should I do if I’m purchasing a home with a septic system?

In the event of a house purchase that includes a septic system, it is highly suggested that you request that the system be cleaned and inspected before closing. Cleaning will help you get started on the right foot, and examining the septic system will guarantee that you know your septic system is in good working order when you move into your new home. You will have the option to request necessary repairs if the system is not up to code or is not working properly during the inspection period prior to closing on the residence.

17. Is the water safe?

If the chlorine is properly maintained and your system is operating properly, the water supply that is sprayed into your lawn is supposed to be safe for children and dogs to walk around on. Humans and pets should never drink from puddles of standing water.

18. Do I have to add chlorine?

The requirement to keep chlorine in an aerobic septic system at all times is a legal requirement in some jurisdictions. Those who violate the law can face fines of up to $2,500 per infraction, with each subsequent day constituting a separate crime.

19. Where can I purchase chlorine?

Chlorine may be purchased in the plumbing department of Home Depot or Lowe’s. It is possible to purchase chlorine from Septic Solutions, either from their office or service van. When compared to the standard retail price offered by home improvement retailers, purchasing chlorine from Septic Solutions will save you roughly $10!

20. Where do I add chlorine?

The position of the chlorine will differ depending on the kind of aerobic system you have installed. Grate pipes are typically 2 3/4″ in diameter, and they are connected to the sewer system. On most systems, you’ll find the pipe protruding from the ground near your tank lids or inside the final lid of your system. If you are having difficulty identifying your chlorinator pipe, call Septic Solutions to talk with a professional who will be able to pinpoint the exact position of your system’s chlorinator for you.

21. How much chlorine am I supposed to add?

The usual guideline is that 1-2 pills per person per week should be used in moderation. Depending on the size of your family and how much water you consume, this will be different for each individual home.

22. Do I have to use tablets or is there a different method?

There is an other technique of adding chlorine to your septic system, which is described below.

If you have a Smart-Chlor bleach injection system installed, you can use standard home bleach if you have the required equipment.

23. Is there a difference between a dripper and a Smart-Chlor?

Yes, a dripper is often a home-made device that drips continuously, similar to an intravenous drip. Each time your water pump starts, a Smart-Chlor is inserted into your plumbing system and is intended to dose the water with chloride. This solution reduces the need for superfluous chlorine consumption and ensures that the chlorine in your septic system is correctly regulated.

24. How much maintenance is required from me with a Smart-Chlor?

The Smart-Chlor requires little to no maintenance at all! It has a capacity of up to 6 gallons of regular home bleach, according to the manufacturer. Every 2-3 months, pour a gallon or two into the tank and you’re done! Not to mention that it comes with a lifetime warranty!

25. Will my sludge level break down by itself?

No, the sludge that has accumulated at the bottom of your septic tanks must be cleaned by a professional septic cleaning service in order to be effective.

26. How do I know when my septic is ready to be cleaned out?

Septic system cleaning should be performed when the amount of sludge in your system climbs to more than 8 inches. Septic failure might occur if the cleansing process is left unattended for an extended period of time.

27.Do aerobic septic systems have to be cleaned out?

Every three to five years, all septic systems must be cleaned up.

28. Is there a difference between pumping and cleaning the septic?

Yes. Pumping is simply the process of removing water from your septic tanks as well as some of the floating solids. Water and compacted muck that has collected in the bottom of the tanks must be properly removed, and this is accomplished through the process of “cleaning.”

29. How should I prepare for holidays and/or large gatherings?

When you anticipate hosting a big number of guests, cleaning your septic system before to the event will help you prevent an embarrassing septic system breakdown during your gathering.

30.Are there certain things I can not put into the septic?

Most items are fine in moderation; however, things like significant volumes of chemicals, grease, and other such substances are not permitted. See Septic System Do’s and Don’ts for a more in-depth list of what should and should not be put into your septic system. Septic Solutions of Texas retains ownership of the copyright and reserves all rights.

Disinfecting Your Well Water: Shock Chlorination

Uttam Saha, Leticia Sonon, Pamela Turner, and David Kissel collaborated on the revision. Jorge H. Atiles and Paul F. Vendrell wrote the original draft for this piece.

What is Shock Chlorination
When should Shock Chlorination be used
And is Shock Chlorination always effective are all questions that need to be answered. Temporary Arsenic Release after Shock Chlorination When it comes to shock chlorination, what precautions should be taken are: Once the water has been treated with shock chlorination, when will it be drinkable again? It is important to know what type of chlorine bleach should be used. What amount of chlorine should I use

The Shock Chlorination Process is a method of disinfection.

Shock chlorination is a basic procedure for cleaning your water system. The following are recommendations for utilizing this therapy in a safe and effective manner.

What is Shock Chlorination?

Water systems such as wells, springs, and cisterns are disinfected by shock chlorination, which is accomplished by utilizing household liquid bleach to disinfect the water (or chlorine). Treatment of bacterial contamination in residential water systems using shock chlorination is the most generally recommended method of disinfection today.

When Should Shock Chlorination Be Used?

It is advised to use shock chlorination:

When a new well is completed or an unused well is returned to service
When annual water test results indicate the presence of bacteria

Whenever a well system is opened for any installation, repair, or maintenance
Whenever the well is surrounded by flood waters (standing water around or covering the well casing)
Whenever well water becomes muddy or cloudy after a rain

Whenever the well has iron bacteria or sulfur-reducing bacteria symptoms such as slime (biofilm) or odor
Whenever the well is surrounded by flood waters (standing

Is Shock Chlorination Always Effective?

In the event that a source of bacterial contamination survives after shock chlorination, bacterial contamination may return. For example,

A local septic system that is not operating properly
A channel for surface water to enter a well, such as:

The inappropriate placement of a well

The lack of a well cap
Or the wrong placement or looseness of a well cap when there is insufficient grouting or other flaws during the well building a well casing that has fractured

Using shock chlorination to address reoccurring bacteria issues is not advised in most cases.

A licensed well driller/contractor should be enlisted to locate and eradicate the source(s) of the pollution. The installation of a continuous disinfecting treatment system is still another alternative.

Shock Chlorination and Temporary Arsenic Release

Aquifer sediments with high amounts of arsenic may temporarily raise the arsenic levels in water, despite the fact that shock chlorination will disinfect the wells (WDNR, 2008). It has been shown that arsenic occurs naturally in some bedrock and aquifer sediments in the southern coastal plain (SCP) area of Georgia, and it has also been discovered in drinking water from several private wells in the region. As a result of groundwater pumping, the water table is reduced, allowing oxygen to reach sediments in the groundwater below the water table.

In a similar vein, because chlorine is an extremely powerful oxidant, it has the potential to breakdown arsenic from sediments and release it into groundwater.

Neither an acidic nor an alkaline bleach solution should be used. The ideal solution has a pH of 6-7. Avoid leaving chlorine solutions in well casings for longer periods of time than recommended (12-24 hours). To ensure that there are no residual chlorine levels in well casings, holding tanks, and pipelines, complete flushing should be performed. After shock chlorination, well water used for drinking should be tested for arsenic to ensure that the arsenic content is below a safe limit (less than 10 parts per billion).

What Precautions Should Be Taken Prior to Shock Chlorination?

It is necessary to utilize shock chlorination to eliminate bacterial pollutants from well water, well casings, holding tanks, and the whole water distribution system. A well driller who holds a valid license has received shock chlorinate training. Make careful to follow these safety precautions if you want to shock chlorinate your own well:

The use of concentrated chlorine solutions for shock chlorination can be hazardous to the environment. In order to protect oneself from the volatile and corrosive properties of the concentrated chlorine solution, one should dress in protective clothes such as goggles, an apron, rubber gloves, and boots. In a well-ventilated location, combine and add the chlorine solution. After shock chlorination, the chlorine levels in the water are quite high. Make arrangements for a different supply of drinking water if necessary. Make sure that children and elderly individuals do not drink tap water while the water is being treated
Chlorine should have enough contact time with the germs to destroy them. Take precautions to ensure that no one in your household uses the water for any reason throughout the 12 to 24 hour treatment period
Keeping the water pump from delivering an electric shock. Prior to removing the well cap or cover, be sure that the pump circuit breaker has been turned off. To complete Step 3 of this shock chlorination procedure, you will need to reconnect the electricity, but make sure to turn the pump circuit breaker off again before reinstalling the well cap or cover (Step 6). Wearing water-resistant rubber boots is recommended for protecting the components of water supply and treatment systems. Shock chlorinating a water supply system has the potential to cause damage to components such as pressure tanks, certain filters and filter media, and various treatment devices, among other components. Before you begin, make sure that all carbon filters and reverse osmosis devices that are connected to your household water pipes have been disconnected. The high concentration of chlorine in the solution can harm these filters. Some water softeners, iron filters, and sand filters, on the other hand, may not be affected. Before shocking chlorinating your water supply system, consult with component makers to learn how to bypass or safeguard this equipment, if required.

When Will the Water Be Drinkable Again after Shock Chlorination?

Retesting for total coliform and E. coli bacteria should be done one to two weeks after the shock chlorination of the water supply system has been completed. Follow the instructions for sample collection to the letter. If the results of the test demonstrate that there are no coliform bacteria present, the water is safe to drink. When coliform bacteria are detected, the source(s) of contamination should be located and eradicated by a licensed well driller/contractor, or a continuous disinfection treatment system should be established to ensure that the bacteria are not present in the water supply.

What Kind of Chlorine Bleach Should Be Used?

Use the ordinary (and, in most cases, least costly) unscented home chlorine bleach containing at least 5 percent sodium hypochlorite that can be bought in supermarkets; do not purchase scented chlorine products such as fresh smell, lemon, or other citrus scents.

How Much Chlorine Do I Use?

Adding 3 quarts of common laundry bleach to every 100 gallons of water in the well is recommended when using this product. In order to assess how much standing water is in your well, follow the methods outlined below:

Calculate the depth of water in your well, which is the distance between the bottom of the well and the water level at the surface of the water. Measure the distance between the ground level and the water level in order to obtain this information (distance “b” in the diagram). To get the entire depth of the water, subtract the well depth “a” from the total depth of the water: a – b = c. If you are unsure about the depth of your well, but you are familiar with the well drilling business that built it, you should call that company. Well drillers frequently maintain detailed records of all of the wells they drill. If you are unable to locate any records pertaining to your well, you should call a qualified well driller who can assist you in obtaining the necessary measurements. Calculate the amount of water that can be stored in your well per foot of water. The diameter of your well is used to get this value. Wells are generally classified into two types: drilled wells and bored wells. The interior diameter of a drilled well’s casing (well pipe) is normally between 4 and 10 inches in diameter. Bored wells are greater in size, with diameters ranging from 12 to 36 inches. To find out how much water your well can hold per foot of water, use the following table:

Drilled Well/Pipe	Bored Well
Diameter (inches)	Storage per footof water (gal/ft)*	Diameter (inches)	Storage per footof water (gal/ft)
4″	0.653	12″	5.88
5″	1.02	16″	10.5
6″	1.47	20″	16.3
7″	2.00	24″	23.5
8″	2.61	28″	32.0
9″	3.30	32″	41.8
10″	4.08	36″	52.9
* If your well diameter is not listed in the above table, or if you use a cistern or reservoir, you will need to contact your local Extension office for more information.

Multiply your entire depth of water “c” by your storage per foot of water “s.” This is your storage per foot of water. This example will make the assumption that “c” is 204 feet in length. The quantity of water in your well will be the final product: 204 divided by 1.47 equals 300 gal. 3 pints of bleach per 100 gallons of water should be poured into your well, with an additional 3 pints to treat the domestic plumbing, which includes the pressure tank, the hot water heater, and the pipes.

Using the following example, if the volume of water in your well is 300 gallons, you will add 9 pints of bleach to treat the well and 3 more pints to treat the plumbing for a total of 12 pints or 1.5 gallons:

Use a volume of bleach equal to two times the 150-foot water depth for the suitable casing diameter if the water depth in the well cannot be determined. For example, a casing with an 8-inch diameter and a 150-foot water depth would take 1.85 gallons of ordinary home bleach. If the depth of the water is not determined, the amount of bleach necessary will be 1.85 x 2 = 3.7 gallons of bleach. Do not use more bleach than the prescribed amount since it is not essential and will result in further flushing before using the bleach in the home or on the clothes.

The Shock Chlorination Process

CLEANING: Remove any loose or foreign material from the well house, spring house, or storage tank before starting. Removing the well cap or lid will allow you to safely turn off the pump circuit breaker. Then use a strong chlorine solution (1/2 gallon chlorine bleach per 5 gallons clean water) to cleanse the interior surfaces that are easily accessible. To avoid recontamination, the well must be equipped with a sanitary cover that is in excellent working order
Otherwise, the well must be abandoned. CALCULATING AND DISPENSING: Pour 3 pints of chlorine bleach per 100 gallons of water, plus an additional 3 pints, into your well, following the directions outlined before. MIX: Attach a clean garden hose to the outside faucet closest to the well and insert the other end of the hose into the well to make a mixing bowl. After turning on the faucet, re-starting the pump, and allowing the water to flow until you smell chlorine coming out of the hose, turn off the faucet. Close the exterior faucet after washing down the interior of the well casing with the hose for approximately 15 minutes. Allow the solution to circulate throughout the system by pressing the button. Open each faucet, starting outdoors and working your way inside (both hot and cold), one at a time, and allow the water to flow freely. When a strong chlorine stench is noticed, turn off all of the faucets. Flush the toilets one at a time until they are completely empty. The well should be filled with an extra 3 quarts of bleach and tested again. If a strong chlorine odor cannot be detected at each faucet and toilet, repeat the process. TO COMPLETE THE FLUSH AND FINISH, turn off the pump circuit breaker, replace the well cap or cover, and flush and finish again. It is recommended that chlorinated water be left in the system for 12 to 24 hours. Turn on the circuit breaker for the pump. Remove any residual chlorine from the system by turning on exterior faucets one at a time and allowing them to run until there is no longer any chlorine odor in the air. To finish, turn on each of the interior faucets one at a time until the water is clear and the chlorine smell has disappeared. Each toilet should be flushed. More than 100 gallons of chlorinated water should not be discharged into your septic system, nor should the water be allowed to drain into a stream, pond, or lake through an open drainage ditch. Alternatively, you might run the water into a storage tank and utilize it to irrigate vegetation once the chlorine has dissipated
This would help to preserve water.

Sources

A report published by the University of Georgia Cooperative Extension on “Shock Chlorination of Home Wells, Springs, and Cisterns.” A report by the Cooperative Extension Service at the University of Nebraska-Lincoln on “Shock Chlorination of Domestic Water Supplies.” Shock chlorination is used to disinfect private household water supply systems as part of the Virginia Household Water Quality Program.

Virginia Cooperative Extension, Virginia Polytechnic Institute and State University are three of the state’s educational institutions.

Arsenic Sensitive Areas should have enough chlorination.

PUB-DG-069 2002

Reviewers

Adam Speir (UGA), Alyson McCann (University of Rhode Island), Jackie Ogden (UGA), and Mark Risse are among others who have contributed to this work (UGA) History of the current status and revisions Originally published on December 17, 2012. On September 1st, 2016, the full review was published.