Some tank lids have built-in handles to pull on, but others require a pry bar to lift them open. If the lid comes with handles, ask for the assistance of a friend or family member to remove the lid. If it doesn’t, push a screwdriver into the seam around the lid and insert the pry bar into the gap. Then, press down.
Can you replace the lid on a septic tank?
Concrete septic tank covers require replacement when they develop cracks or other damage. These can be purchased online or at a home improvement store near you. Many septic tanks have risers so the lid is visible above ground.
Do septic tanks have concrete lids?
A septic tank installed before 1975 will have a single 24-inch concrete lid in the center of the rectangle. A shallow excavation with a shovel at those locations should reveal the lid or lids, depending on the year of the tank.
How can I tell if my septic tank is full?
Here are some of the most common warning signs that you have a full septic tank:
- Your Drains Are Taking Forever.
- Standing Water Over Your Septic Tank.
- Bad Smells Coming From Your Yard.
- You Hear Gurgling Water.
- You Have A Sewage Backup.
- How often should you empty your septic tank?
How far apart are the lids on a septic tank?
The distance between lids will be different for each sized tank: 1000 gallon tank = 6-6.5 ft.; 1250 gallon = 7-7.5 ft.; 1500 gallon = 8.5-9 ft.. Dig up the outlet chamber access lid. If you are extraordinarily lucky, the as-built drawing is accurate and you have hit the lids spot on.
Do septic lids need to be sealed?
Like wells, septic systems have problems if they are not sealed from outside surface water. Most septic systems rely on buried pipes to get rid of the fluids. The lid covers should fit tightly — if they don’t, a company that specializes in septic repairs should be called to fix them.
How many lids should a concrete septic tank have?
Two or three lids may be included in your system. The average size of a sewage tank is approximately 5 feet by 8 feet. The lid is buried between 4 inches and 4 feet underground in most cases.
Why does my septic tank have 1 lid?
But seeing one lid on the ground doesn’t necessarily mean that you have one lid – the other might be buried few feet away from the one you saw and so you will have to dig to access it. Most septic tank lids are made of concrete. Fiberglass and polyethylene lids are not very popular because they break easily.
How often should you have your septic tank pumped?
Inspect and Pump Frequently The average household septic system should be inspected at least every three years by a septic service professional. Household septic tanks are typically pumped every three to five years.
How to Remove a Septic Tank Lid
A septic tank lid is the section of the sewage tank that is located at the top of the tank. This lid must be removed at least once every several years in order to completely empty the tank. Every three to five years, depending on the size of the tank, a homeowner will need to have the septic tank pumped out and cleaned. Avoid allowing the tank to become overflowing, causing it to begin backing up into the home or overflowing out of the opening. The tank suffers serious damage as a result of this.
Step 1 – Locate Septic Tank
A septic tank lid is the section of the sewage tank that is located at the top of the tank. This lid must be removed at least once every several years in order to completely empty the tank. Every three to five years, depending on the size of the tank, a homeowner will need to have the septic tank pumped out and cleaned. Avoid allowing the tank to become overflowing, causing it to begin backing up into the home or overflowing out of the opening. The tank suffers serious damage as a result of this.
Step 2 – Dig Up Septic Tank Lid
A septic tank lid is the section of the sewage tank that is located at the top of the tank. This lid must be removed at least once every several years in order to completely empty the tank. Every three to five years, depending on the size of the tank, a homeowner will need to have the septic tank pumped out and cleaned. Avoid allowing the tank to become overflowing, causing it to begin backing up into the home or overflowing out of the opening. The tank suffers serious damage as a result of this.
Step 3 – Pry Off Septic Tank Lid
The lid of the septic tank might be rather hefty, depending on the size of the tank. On all sides, it is a solid block of concrete that is perfectly flat. It could have a handle that you can pull on. Pry bars are required to remove the majority of septic tank lids from their resting positions. Set the prybar in the seam and push it down until it is secure. As the lid begins to rise out of the hole, have someone assist you in moving it to the side. Place the lid on the ground’s surface so that it is not in the path of the pumping vehicle.
How to Open a Septic Tank Lid
Find the location of the septic tank. The tank must be at least 10 feet away from the house foundation, according to most building rules. The location and direction of the drain as it exits the house should offer a good indication of the tank’s location and direction. For the purpose of locating the tank, it may be required to drill a number of test holes.
Step 2
The septic tank should be identified. A minimum distance of 10 feet from the house foundation is required by most building rules.
Observing the position and direction of the drain as it exits the house should offer a good indication of where the tank could be hiding. For the purpose of locating the tank, it may be required to drill a number of trial holes.
Step 3
Make a small indentation with the screwdriver in the seam surrounding the lid. As soon as the seam begins to open slightly, insert one edge of the pry-bar into it and pry it upwards. Because the lid may be fairly heavy, you should have a companion nearby to assist you in removing it from the hole. Keep an eye out for any cracks or chips in the tank’s borders or the lid itself when doing this procedure. It is critical to have a tight, smooth seal between the lid and the tank when using this method.
Tip
In order to avoid accidentally back-filling the hole when the repairs are finished, make a note on it. It is best to indicate the placement of the tank lid with a tiny stepping stone that is flush with the surface of the ground. If you need to re-open the tank in the future, you will save time and effort by doing so now.
Warning
Never go into a septic tank or allow anybody else to get into one. Suffocation and death can occur quickly as a result of the gases and lack of oxygen.
Procedure for Opening Septic Tanks
- ASK a question or make a comment about how to open a septic tank safely and properly for inspection or cleaning.
InspectAPedia does not allow any form of conflict of interest. The sponsors, goods, and services described on this website are not affiliated with us in any way. Instructions on how to open the septic tank. The location of the septic tank cleanout or cover, as well as the access and opening processes. We discuss some of the things to look for before opening the septic tank, such as subsidence, indications of recent work, and septic tank coverings that are not suitable to use. Then we demonstrate how to remove the septic tank lid or the access port cover from the tank.
For this topic, we also have anARTICLE INDEX available, or you may check the top or bottom of the page.
Procedures for Safe Opening of a Septic Tank, Cesspool, or Drywall for Inspection or Cleaning
The following are the contents of the article:
- How to remove the lid from a septic tank
- When it comes to pumping out the septic tank, which septic tank entrance should be used? Why
In this septic tank pumpout article series, you’ll learn how to locate, open, pump out, clean, and inspect conventional septic tanks, as well as how to locate, open, pump out, clean, and inspect conventional septic tanks using photos. In addition to septic pumping tank truck operators, this guideline is meant to provide basic information to homeowners and septic service providers that are concerned about septic system maintenance.
- There is a risk of dangerous, perhaps deadly collapse due to subsidence (depressions or low regions in the earth) near the location of the septic tank. Evidence of recent construction activity that may necessitate further investigation in order to determine the status of the septic system
- Backup or effluent breakout at the surface of the ground in the septic tank region.
- Here is an example of a septic tank cover that was discovered atop an unstable home-made collection of concrete blocks that had been piled by the owner to serve as an access well to his septic tank. Because the masonry blocks were misaligned and loose, and because the tank aperture into which the cover opened was bigger than the cover, there was a serious collapse risk that may have resulted in a deadly hazard. We covered the area with plywood and roped it off, and we quickly informed the residents and the property owner of the situation, both verbally and in writing
Procedure for Opening the Septic Tank Pumping Access Port
It is necessary to clean the septic tank using a cleanout port, which is normally positioned in the center of the tank. A small access opening, such as one over an intake or outlet baffle, does not provide enough space for adequate sludge removal from the septic tank bottom, and it increases the likelihood of future clogging of the tank’s inlet or outlet due to partially removed floating scum that has not been completely removed from the tank bottom. In this particular scenario, we already had the measurements to the exact placement of the septic tank cleanout cover due to previous work.
A wrecking bar is set to be used to remove the cover from the vehicle. It is important to note that we excavated far enough away from the tank entrance so that when we remove the lid, we will not have a large amount of dirt falling into the septic tank.
Reader CommentsQ A
@Ron, In order for a concrete septic tank lid to be correctly erected, it must feature both access openings and cast in iron loops to which a hoist may be attached. Alternatively, if your septic tank cover does not have those points of purchase for lifting, you will require a flat bar and a larger wrecking bar to pry up the excavated lid from the septic tank sufficiently to allow you to put a chain around the lid, most likely two Chainz, and lift the lid with a hoist and tripod mechanism or you will use an on-site motorized hoist.
- 1/2 x 27/4 removing the top of a septic tank @Phil, Although what you describe is theoretically doable, it may be less expensive and more rational to do so in a different way.
- This is due to the fact that just stitching a circular hole does not ensure that I am creating a hole through which the lid will not be dropped.
- Edge My concrete septic tank, which was constructed when the home was built in 1979 and does not have any manholes or openings for pumping out, is in poor condition.
- Is it feasible to cut two manholes using a concrete saw that are 20″/24″ in diameter and then build risers and a cover on top of them?
- Could you please share a picture of the tank top?
- It is common for the concrete top to be tapered; nevertheless, it may just be trapped by effloresent salts and filth.
- I have a feeling that simply tugging will not be effective.
This would have stopped leaks but would have made it extremely difficult to open the tank for the next person who needed to open the tank.
Repeat this process many times all around the cover’s perimeter.
For me, this has worked almost every time in the past.
It is recommended that you build a septic tank riser that is sealed to the tank top, as well as a new secure cover on top of the riser if your septic tank lid is not near to the ground level.
Never work on your own.
I’ve erected two wood 4x4s on top of the lifting ring to provide additional support.
All I’ve done three times is shattered those 4x4s.
Do you have any recommendations?
A septic tank pumping provider can remove plastic bags, tiny pebbles, and other debris from your tank, as well as the sediments, scum, and sludge that has accumulated there.
What is the best way to get them out?
When the septic tank is drained out, would it make sense to place a plastic bag over the top hole of the tank to keep the odors contained?
Gerard A plastic bag as a sewer line cap doesn’t seem right to me – it’s not durable, it’s the incorrect material if a cover is required, and if it’s a vent rather than an access pipe, the vent must be open to the atmosphere and protected from animal intrusion.
What is the function of this item?
A typical septic tank is equipped with clean out access covers that are strategically placed.
Maybe something as basic as a flat piece of concrete or stone will be sufficient, or maybe something more complex.
To be quite honest, I would have expected the contractor who dug the hole to be accountable for ensuring that the system was repaired and safe.
What should I do to solve it?
What store would I go to in order to acquire septic tank covers?
A few years ago, I had a beautiful new house built for me.
I have three plastic polylok lids, one of which is above ground and is for the pump.
I’d like to purchase risers so that I may build all three at a depth of around 6 inches below ground level.
What are the advantages and disadvantages.
Do you have any other suggestions?
I apologize for the lengthy post.
Sorry, but “True Bolt” isn’t a phrase I’m familiar with or associate with septic tank lids in any way.
Although this is not always the case, Mary, as the pumper may be able to access the entire tank bottom from a single opening depending on the tank’s size and shape; however, if your pumper is unable to do so from a single opening, you may want both openings opened to inspect the condition of the tank baffles.
There are two holes in my septic tank. Is it necessary to open both doors for a pump out?
Question:cannot find the manhole cover of the septic tank
(8th of August, 2014) “We’ve located the cesspool concrete lid (about 12 foot diameter), but after digging a 2 foot perimeter, we were unable to locate the manhole cover, which was required for an inspection.” vicki levin stated Help? My husband is becoming increasingly upset with the digging!
Reply:
If it’s a cesspool, rather than a septic tank, and it’s spherical, the access lid is normally located in the center of the container.
Question: how do i remove septic tank lid that is stuck
The entrance lid would normally be in the center of the cesspool, if it is in fact a cesspool rather than a septic tank, and it is spherical.
Reply:
Anon:WARNING: If the septic tank cover, lid, or access aperture has partially caved in or sank into the tank, the condition is extremely dangerous – an unsecure cover implies that someone might fall into the tank, which is generally lethal very quickly. Please keep everyone away from the septic tank area until such time as you have had the tank inspected and opened for additional inspection by a professional. Depending on the tank type and condition, lifting the lid may necessitate the use of a pry bar or wrecking bar, as well as a small portable winch (which is unusual).
Alternatively, consider the following:
Septic Pumping ProcedurePumper Truck Operation Articles
- PROCEDURE FOR SEPTIC TANK INSPECTION
- MISTAKES MADE IN SEPTIC TANK PUMPING
- PROCEDURE FOR SEPTIC TANK PUMPING
- HOW TO CLEAN A SEPTIC TANK
- WHEN TO CLEAN A SEPTIC TANK
- WHEN NOT TO PUMP A SEPTIC TANK
- HOW TO FIND A SEPTIC TANK
- HOW TO OPEN A SEPTIC TANK
- INSPECT THE SEPTIC TANK BEFORE PUMPING
- SEPTIC TANK INSPECTION PROCEDURE
- SEPTIC TANK LEVELS OF SEWAGE
- PUMPER TRU
Suggested citation for this web page
HOW TO OPEN A SEPTIC TANK at Inspect a Tank An online encyclopedia of building environmental inspection, testing, diagnosis, repair, and issue preventive information is available at Apedia.com. Alternatively, have a look at this.
INDEX to RELATED ARTICLES:ARTICLE INDEX to SEPTIC SYSTEMS
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septic tank lid stuck
Show or hide citations by clicking on the appropriate button. Publisher InspectApedia.com is used as an example of a reference. Daniel Friedman is an American journalist and author. – Allow the pumping firm to take care of it? In order to provide 500 pounds of uplift to the cover handle for a few hours while spraying hot water around the edge and bonking it with a 4×4, you might use a tripod or two 55 gallon drums on either side, each supported by a beam and an extendable come-along.
Pulling the cable sideways with your hand or a fish scale might be used to determine the tension in the wire. With a 20 pound force in the middle of a 4′ cable with 500 pounds of strain, it would slide sideways roughly 1/2″ and break. Nick
I had the identical problem, except that the tank had been 4 feet underground for 25 years before I discovered it. When the front wheels of my tractor were airborne, I chained my carryall to the handle and hoisted it till it became airborne. After a while, the lid came off the cabinet. I recommend that you get a comealong that is placed on a tripod and pull with a NYLON rope until it stretches (NO MORE THAN 10%!) and allow it to sit in a state of tension for a bit. Perhaps you could even pour hot water on it to melt the tar paper seal, then place an ice block on the lid to shrink it more.
- Bob [email protected] wrote:Thank you for your assistance.
- I surrounded the cover with a tiny earthen dam and poured 2 litres of hot water into it to protect it.
- Amazing.
- strain on a 4′ wire with 500 pounds of force Woof!
- Wouldn’t it depend on the composition of the cable?
- There isn’t much.
How do you open a septic tank lid?
- Find the location of the septic tank. Most building rules require that the tank be located at least 10 feet away from the house foundation
- Remove the soil off the top of the tank. The septic tank lid will be a square piece of concrete that will be installed at the center of the tank. Insert the screwdriver into the seam along the lid’s perimeter
The majority of septic tank lids will require the use of a pry bar to be removed from their mountings. Set the prybar in the seam and push it down until it is secure. During the process of the lid lifting out of the hole, have someone slide it to the side. Place thelidon the surface of the ground so that it is out of the path of the pumping truck. Also, how do you take the cover off of a concrete septic tank without damaging it? Remove theSepticTank LidPlace a pry bar between the top of theseptictank and the bottom of thelid.
- One end of the concrete septic tanklid may be lifted up by pressing down on the pry bar.
- Start by inserting a tiny metal probe into the ground and following it across the yard, probing every 2 feet until you find the 4-inch sewage line.
- The majority of them are between 10 and 25 feet distant.
- A modest amount of bleach from a load of laundry will have no effect on the bacteria and water in your septic tank, which holds several thousand gallons.
With each flush, they emit bleach and other chemicals into the environment, making them unfit for use in septic systems. Never flush uncooked cleaners, bleach, or other home chemicals down the toilet or down the sink.
How to Find the Lid on a Septic System
All septic tanks eventually fill with sediments and must be pumped out on a regular basis in order to remain in excellent functioning order. If the tank’s lid is not on a riser at ground level and you are not the home’s original owner, you may be unable to determine where the lid is located. A typical septic tank is 4 inches to 4 feet underground, with all of its components, including the cover, buried between 4 inches and 4 feet underneath. This is true regardless of whether the septic tank is equipped with special risers that keep the lid flush with the surface of the ground.
Consult A Map
First, choose with the most straightforward choice. The installation of septic tanks at all locations is recorded in most counties’ permission records, which are kept on file for future reference. Typically, this will include a schematic indicating the placement of the tank on the land, as well as certain dimensions that will allow you to measure to the precise site of the tank. If your tank was placed before your county made it a requirement to record the location of such tanks, you may find yourself with nothing to show for your efforts.
Search For A Sign
Septic tanks are placed in such a way that they are as unnoticeable as possible on the land. After the grass has grown back after installation and some time has passed, it is possible that just a few visual indications will remain. Pay particular attention to the contours of your yard for any inexplicable high or low points that might suggest the presence of an underground storage tank.
Follow The Pipe
It is important for septic tanks to be as unobtrusive as possible on the site where they are built. It is possible that just a few visual signals will remain once the grass has recovered from the installation and time has gone. Consider your yard’s topography carefully for any inexplicable high or low points that might suggest the presence of a hidden tank.
Locate The Lid
The majority of septic tanks are rectangular in shape and measure around 5 feet by 8 feet. Investigate the tank’s circumference to determine its boundaries and outline the rectangle’s boundary using a pencil. A septic tank that was built before 1975 will have a single concrete lid that is 24 inches in diameter in the center of the rectangle. If the tank was built after 1975, it will have two covers made of fiberglass or polyethylene, centered at the ends of the rectangle and centered at the ends of the rectangle.
Call A Professional
Opening a septic tank is a job best left to the pros once the lid has been discovered. Concrete septic tank lids are extremely heavy, and many require the use of lifting tools to remove them completely.
An open tank has the potential to release toxic gases. Anyone going around on the property who comes into contact with an exposed septic tank might be in risk. Because of the noxious vapors present in an open tank, falling into one can be lethal.
Mark The Spot
Make a note on the ground near where the tank was pumped by a professional and the lid was buried to serve as a reference in the future. In order to keep track of where you are, you should choose a hefty circular patio tile that is embedded in the ground. Additionally, draw your own map of the area and store it with your other important papers.
Can’t remove septic tank lid
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| Author:FrontRanger (CO)Hi, first post here. This issue may have come up before but I wasn’t able to find it using the Search feature.I’ve got a two-chamber concrete septic tank. The previous owners used to pump out the tank by removing only the lid on the inlet-side chamber. Now the concrete lid on the outlet-side chamber can’t be removed. The septic serviceman said that it hadn’t been removed in so long, the concrete had “re-set”. The way he explained it, irrigation and rain water soak through the soil, then get into the concrete, and over time form a bond. He also said that you can’t pump/clean/inspect the tank properly without removing that lid. Naturally, I called up the previous owner, but he had a different story. I wanted to get some impartial advice to find out who was right, so here goes:1. The previous owner didn’t think it was necessary to remove the outlet-side cover. He said the septic pumping company was able to put their hose in over the baffle and pump out the outlet-side chamber. I’m no expert but I don’t see how that’s possible, given the size and flexibility of the hose, and the extremely limited visibility with the hose in the hole. Is it possible to properly pump out the tank removing only the inlet-side lid? If so, how?2. If the answer to the first question is that you truly need to remove the outlet-side lid, what is the best way to solve the problem of the “re-set” concrete in the lid? The tank is located close to my house, beneath a lawn with sprinkler lines (both water and electrical) cleverly running right over the tank. Not the best choice on the part of the installer but naturally I want to minimize the excavation in that area.In case the options are specific to location, I’m located in Northern Colorado.Thanks! |
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| Author:hj (AZ)what are you using to lift the lid? I have never had a problem even when the lid was set with mortar. |
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| Author:FrontRanger (CO)The lid has what looks like a curved piece of re-bar set into it. The septic service guy was prying up on that with something, I didn’t see exactly what he was doing. Then he took a digging bar and started chipping away little pieces at the seam between the tank top and the lid, then tried prying up in that little space. After doing that unsuccessfully he said the concrete had “re-set”. |
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| Author:mm (MD)Fasten a chain to the lid handle and then wrap and tie it off around a digging bar that is held horizontally 2-3 feet above the tank.Have someone (a helper?) apply upward leverage on the bar against the ground while you take a second digging bar and, using the hammer end, gently but firmly pound on the outer edge of the concrete lid.It will come up.The lids are often set in tar to seal them against water seepage into the tank so they are tight, but it will release.Edited 1 times. |
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| Author:FrontRanger (CO)Thanks, m m. Now that you mention that, I remember the septic service guy talking about that briefly, and also a variation using a jack to apply the force. He said he thought since it had been so long since it was last removed, the re-bar would break out of the concrete before the lid came up. I know that the previous owner had not removed it since 1995. Don’t know about the owner before that, but he might not have taken it off since it was installed in 1978!There was no tar or tar paper visible in the chipped-away sections. some sort of barrier seems like an obvious step for anyone who installs these things for a living, but it looks like it was omitted in this case. |
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| Author:hj (AZ)I usually call a tow truck and use his hook in that rebar. |
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| Author:hj (AZ)A couple of log splitting wedges between the lid and the tank will also help. |
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| Author:mm (MD)”A couple of log splitting wedges between the lid and the tank will also help”.About all they’ll help in doing is to obliterate the lid. |
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| Author:hj (AZ)The lid is about 8″ thick, it is not going to be “obliterated” unless it is completely deteriorated. |
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| Author:FrontRanger (CO)Thanks for all the replies so far, about how to free up the stuck lid.Anyone for the first question? Is it possible to properly pump out the tank removing only the inlet-side lid? If so, how?Thank you. |
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| Author:Paul48 (CT)Logically.Why would they put 2 access holes if one was enough? |
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| Author:hj (AZ)It appears that there are NO access holes just two halves of the lid. The center baffle doesn’t comeup the bottom of the lid so they just stick the hose into the other side. |
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| Author:FrontRanger (CO)Re: It appears that there are NO access holes just two halves of the lid. The center baffle doesn’t come up the bottom of the lid so they just stick the hose into the other side.-Perhaps I’ve been using the wrong terminology. What I meant by “lid” was a roughly 18″x18″ opening in the top of the tank, i.e., the covering for the access hole.Re: Why would they put 2 access holes if one was enough?-The same track that my mind took. The question arose from the claim of the previous owner that one was sufficient, and that the hose could be put over the baffle into the outlet-side chamber. My skepticism comes from imagining a stiff 4″ hose maneuvering down a hole, over the baffle, and then into the other chamber. Two access holes would certainly make it more convenient. My question is, can it be done properly using only the one on the inlet-side?Thanks again for your time. |
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| Author:hj (AZ)18 x 18 ports are NOT the same as two tank halves. It would be difficult to put the hose across, IF you have a center baffle. In this case there may not be one and everything can be done from a single port. |
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How to Locate a Septic Tank
A surprising number of homeowners have had to figure out how to find the location of a septic tank on their premises. If you’re purchasing a home with a septic system or discover that your property’s tank hasn’t been maintained in years, you’ll want to know where the tank is located because all septic tanks must be pumped at some point in time. In the course of a real estate transaction, the property owners or real estate agent may be aware of the location of the tank. Inquire about the “as-built,” which is a schematic of the septic system and the specifics of its installation.
Unfortunately, locating the septic tank may not be as simple as it appears.
Because septic system permits have only been needed in Oregon since 1972, you may have to depend on visual indicators to determine whether your system is working properly.
1.Follow the Outgoing Sewer Pipe
Look for the four-inch sewage pipe that runs through the structure and the location where it exits the building in the basement or crawl space. Locate the location outside the building where the pipe exits the building or the location of an access cover over the pipe. It is required that septic tanks be at least five feet away from the structure, although they are usually between 10 and 25 feet away. You may follow the pipe all the way to the tank using a metal probe. It is important to note that sewage lines may curve and run around the corner of a building rather than following a straight path to the holding tank.
2.Search for Septic Tank Risers and Lids
Find and mark the location of the four-inch sewage pipe that runs through the building’s basement or crawl space. See whether there is an access cover over the pipe or a location outdoors where the pipe exits the building. Septic tanks must be at least five feet away from the structure, however they are usually between 10 and 25 feet away from the building on most occasions. You may track the pipe all the way to the tank by using a metal probe. Note that sewage lines may curve and travel around a corner of a building rather than following a straight path to the tank as shown in the diagram above.
3.Find the Drain Field First
In the absence of a riser and lid, search for indicators of a drain field, such as an area of grass that grows more quickly or more slowly than the rest of the yard, grass that is a different color from the rest of the yard, or areas where snow melts more quickly than in other parts of the yard.
Spots of high or low ground in the yard might possibly indicate the presence of a subterranean tank or drain field. You will be able to discover the tank if you probe these regions.
Reasons to Hire a Contractor for Help
Attempting to locate a septic tank on your own can be risky, and in some cases, lethal, if the septic system is old and in danger of collapse. In the event that you fall into a cesspool, dry well, or septic tank, you will die. Removing septic tank lids on your own might potentially put you at risk of contracting bacterial or virus diseases. If you detect any of the following issues, please contact a contractor to assist you in locating or inspecting your septic tank:
- Soil that is sinking around the tank or drain field. Drainage backup into the home’s sewer system, or toilet backup
- A foul odor in the area where you assume the tank and drain field are located
- When there is no rain, pooling water, muddy soil, or spongy grass might occur. Septic tank covers that are rusted, cracked, or have been replaced with improvised lids are prohibited.
Even though you may be ashamed about forgetting where your septic tank is, it is a very frequent problem among homeowners. A contractor may assist you in locating it, and he or she may do it as part of the pumping service. If you need assistance locating your tank or if you have any other questions, please contact us at 503-630-7802. We are available to assist you!
Flip Your Lid
Get articles, news, and videos about Onsite Systems delivered directly to your email! Now is the time to sign up. Plus, there are Onsite Systems. Receive Notifications Pumper Discussion, an email-based forum for industry experts sponsored by COLE Publishing, is the subject of this feature in Pumper. It reports on interesting talks that take place in Pumper Discussion. Septic and drainfield installation and maintenance, trucks and equipment, portable sanitation, chemicals and additives are some of the topics covered in Pumper Discussion, as well as the sharing of knowledge and ideas.
The information and advice provided in Overheard Online is provided in good faith by industry professionals.
Question:
For septic tank pumping, I’m searching for a more efficient method of removing concrete lids from the tanks. It is not possible to bring a tractor along with you. Currently, we utilize pry bars and stacking boards to open the lids of the containers. Do you have any suggestions?
Answers:
We normally pull them out of the tank and set them on the ground on top of the tank to keep them from falling in (imagine that the lid is on a hinge to the middle part of the top of the tank). Lift the lid up with a long breaker bar (we call them rock bars), then use a hook from the other side to pull it up and position it almost completely vertically.
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With regard to a concrete cover installed into a concrete tank, which I assume you are referring to on a regular basis, if you strike the middle of the cover with a heavy bar a few times, it will frequently come off and may be picked up. If you drive a backhoe over it without first breaking it loose, you will most likely simply do damage to the cover. It has been suggested that if you place a plastic garbage bag over the opening before reinstalling the cover, it would be simpler to remove the cover the following time.
That’s what we’ve always referred to them as. In my last post, I mentioned a full-size concrete cover that spans the whole width of the tank. Pop lids are normally equipped with a hook that allows them to be pulled out, but if not, they can be rather difficult to remove.
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What about the screw-on plastic lids that are made of plastic? Those might be a source of frustration at times. I normally remove them by spinning them off with a shovel. Getting back on the tank after it has collapsed is a nightmare, especially after it has been a nightmare getting off.
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Yes, I was talking about lids that extend the whole length of the tank. They are often divided into three components. However, even at that, a 3-foot-by-5-foot slab of concrete weighs a substantial amount. I am able to raise these lids on my own, without the assistance of the homeowner or company. I was searching for a gadget, such as a tripod or something portable, rather than a specific item. Some of these lids are 3 feet or more below ground level, making it extremely difficult to get a pry bar under them and raise them.
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In the past, I used to tip them up with a couple of shovels, then get my hands on it and use physical power to tip it up. Now, I normally dig up one end of the tank, but I dig enough more at the other end of the tank to allow me to slide it off the end of the tank. The tank should only have one compartment, else you’ll be digging up a large portion of its top and bottom.
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On each vehicle, I have a tripod and a come-along with me in case the lids are recalcitrant. If the handle on the lid is broken, I generally have an old piece of strap (such as a trucker’s strap or a 2-inch ratchet strap) that I can use to tie the lid shut. The majority of the time, I leave the strap with the lid and replace it with something else. The tripods were manufactured by a local fabrication firm at my request.
How to Find Your Septic Tank Lid
Previous PostNext PostWhether you realize it or not, it is critical that you be aware of the position of your septic tank lid and the septic tank itself. Despite the fact that septic tanks are fairly huge, they can be difficult to identify, particularly if they have not been properly maintained over time. Continue reading to find out how to locate your septic tank lid.
Why It’s Good to Know Where to Find Your Septic Tank Lid
Previous PostNext PostWhether you are aware of it or not, it is critical that you are aware of the position of your septic tank lid and septic tank chamber. The fact that septic tanks are relatively huge does not make them any easier to discover, especially if they are not properly maintained. To discover out where your septic tank lid is, keep reading!
How to Find Your Septic Tank Opening
Knowing how critical it is to know where your septic tank lid is located, it’s time to go out and find one for yourself. Keep an eye out for a circular lid that is roughly two feet in diameter during your quest. Septic tank lids are normally constructed of green or black plastic, however they can occasionally be made of concrete. It is not always simple to locate the septic tank lid, however, because untidy vegetation, mud, or debris might obscure the lid’s location.
If you live in a snowy climate, seek for a spot of lawn where the snow melts more quickly than it does anywhere else on the property. That is most likely your septic tank, and you will be able to locate the lid in that location.
How to Find Your Septic Tank Lid as a New Homeowner
During the process of purchasing your house, you should have been provided with a map of your property that showed the location of your septic tank. This is normally included as a part of your home inspection service package. All you have to do from there is compare the diagram to your land, find the septic tank location, and potentially dig around it to check whether the lid has been hidden by vegetation or other obstructions. People have been known to place an object such as a huge rock on top of the septic lid, so be sure to look beneath landscaping stones as well.
How to Find Your Septic Tank Lid as an Existing Homeowner
Still having trouble locating your septic tank lid? There’s a significant probability it’ll end up in the ground. The pipes coming from your basement should be followed, as they will take you in the direction of your septic system, which is what we propose. Then, once you’ve determined the correct direction, check for any high or low points in the yard that might reveal the location of your septic tank. You can find the lid of your septic tank by probing the ground with a metal probe every few feet with the probe.
Because most lids have a metal handle or fastener on them to hold the lid closed, you may also use a metal detector to find them.
The majority of lids are buried up to a foot deep, but some lids might be buried as deep as four feet in extreme cases!
How to Maintain Your Septic Tank Lid
Following the discovery of your septic tank lid, keep it in good condition to avoid damage and ensure simple access for future septic tank maintenance, such as pumping your septic tank every three- to five-year period. Here are some pointers for keeping your septic tank lid in good working order:
- Keeping the grass around the septic tank lid regularly mowed is important. Remove any dirt or debris that may have accumulated on your septic tank lid
- Mark the area to ensure that no one parks or constructs structures there. It is possible to do this using a flag, garden décor, or ornamental pebbles.
Professional Septic Tank Services
Is it difficult to find trustworthy septic tank services or septic tank installation? If you are looking for septic tank installation, inspection, and cleaning services, check with your local Mr. Rooter ® Plumbing franchise. Mr. Rooter charges a set amount up front, with no overtime fees or additional expenses. To get started, call us at (855) 982-2028 or fill out our online estimate request form. Is the lid of your septic tank obscured by grass? Inquire with The Grounds Guys about routine lawn care and upkeep.
Rooter, is a member of Neighborly’s network of dependable home service experts, which includes Mr.
By hiring The Grounds Guys to provide trustworthy grass mowing and landscape care services, you can be assured that your septic tank lid will always be simple to locate.
Replacing Your Septic Tank Access Cover
The entrance cover for your septic system may appear to be an inconsequential element of the jigsaw, but it is critical to keeping your waste confined.
Therefore, it is critical to understand when, why, and how you should replace your septic tank access cover in order to avoid costly repairs. Let’s take a deeper look at what’s going on.
When Should You Replace Your Septic Tank Access Cover?
Septic tank lids serve two functions: they prevent sewage from spilling into the tank and they prevent objects from falling into the tank. They are made of plastic or metal. Because the access cover for your septic tank is visible, it is critical that your septic tank lid be solid, durable, and correctly affixed to the tank, especially if your tank is on risers. Small animals and even children can become entangled if this is not prevented. As an added precautionary measure, leaks or breaks in the lid of your septic tank can cause an overflow of wastewater or sewage onto your yard, posing health dangers and creating an unsightly messe.
Additionally, bear in mind that your tank may be overflowing as a result of an overdue pumping session.
How to Replace Your Septic Tank Access Cover
So, how do you go about replacing a septic tank lid that has damaged or is leaking? Take the actions outlined below.
Locate your septic tank lid.
So, what is the best way to repair or replace a septic tank lid that has been damaged or is leaking water? Steps to take are as follows.
Determine what type of access cover you need for the replacement.
Always keep in mind that septic tank lids are available in a number of materials, which means that they vary in terms of both durability and cost. Despite the fact that concrete is reasonably inexpensive and surely durable, it is difficult to remove for routine maintenance and septic tank pumping. PVC or polyethylene covers, on the other hand, are more expensive, but they offer a greater degree of ease. Lids made of metal or fiberglass are also available. In addition to personal preferences, consider variables such as the placement of the septic tank, the amount of weight that will be placed on it, and so on.
Measure the current access cover.
Be sure to carefully measure the previous lid before making your final purchase to guarantee that you obtain the right size lid. The majority of lids are between 21″ and 25″ in height.
If the lid is not on risers, use a shovel to dig around it.
Remove the soil from the top of the septic tank and use a shovel to loosen the corners of the lid so that you can easily remove it. Remove the soil from the bottom of the septic tank.
Lift the old lid off the tank.
This phase might be simple or complex, depending on the sort of lid you’re working with. For a heavier lid, such as one constructed of concrete, you will almost certainly want the assistance of another pair of hands. If the lid is constructed of a lighter material with fasteners, carefully remove the bindings and pull it out of the way. Make sure that any children or pets are kept inside throughout the replacement procedure to avoid anyone falling in during the operation. Watch your own feet, as well.
Install the new one using the existing fasteners.
This phase might be simple or challenging, depending on the sort of lid you’re working with! Another pair of hands will very certainly be required for a heavier lid, such as one constructed of concrete. Carefully untie the connections holding the lid in place if it’s made of a lightweight material with fasteners.
Make sure that any children or dogs are kept inside throughout the replacement operation to avoid anyone falling in during the replacement process. Additionally, keep an eye on your own footing.
Re-bury the lid, or ensure its security if it is on risers.
Once you’re finished, either set the soil back on top of the lid or tighten the cover to ensure it’s snug and secure.
How Can Norway Septic Help?
Once you’re finished, either set the soil back on top of the lid or tighten the lid down to ensure it’s snug and secure once again.
