The general rule of thumb is that most septic tanks can be buried anywhere from four inches to four feet underground.
How Deep Is A Septic Tank?
- Generally, septic tank components along with its lid are deeply buried between 4 inches and 4 feet underground. These tanks are usually rectangular in shape and measure 5 feet by 8 feet.
How deep should septic tank be buried?
In most cases, septic tank components including the lid, are buried between 4 inches and 4 feet underground. You can use a metal probe to locate its edges and mark the perimeter. If you do not find the lid by probing, shallow excavation with a shovel along the tank’s perimeter should reveal the lid.
Can a septic tank be too deep?
Keep septic tanks high: we don’t put the septic tank any deeper than necessary, since we are usually moving effluent from the septic tank to the drainfield also by gravity. Plumbers usually install sewer lines to slope down from inlet to outlet, at 1/8″ per foot to 1/4″ per foot of linear run of the waste pipe.
How deep are drain fields buried?
A typical drainfield trench is 18 to 30 inches in depth, with a maximum soil cover over the disposal field of 36 inches.
How long do septic tanks last?
A septic system’s lifespan should be anywhere from 15 to 40 years. How long the system lasts depends on a number of factors, including construction material, soil acidity, water table, maintenance practices, and several others.
What should be the size of septic tank?
Length of septic tank (L) should be taken as 9feet 9 inches or 9.75 feet. Breadth of septic tank (B) should be taken as 6 feet 3 inches or 6.25 feet. The standard height (D) of septic tank should be taken as 5 feet 9 inches or 5.75 feet.
How deep is the septic tank outlet pipe?
After the solids settle out, effluent leaves the septic tank through the outlet pipe and flows to the drain field. The outlet pipe should be approximately 3 inches below the inlet pipe.
Can you have a septic tank without a leach field?
The waste from most septic tanks flows to a soakaway system or a drainage field. If your septic tank doesn’t have a drainage field or soakaway system, the waste water will instead flow through a sealed pipe and empty straight into a ditch or a local water course.
Why is my grass dying over my drain field?
As temperatures increase, grass draws more moisture from the soil beneath it. The soil above leach lines is shallower than the soil in the rest of the lawn, so it holds less water compared to the rest of the lawn, causing grass directly above the lines to dry out and turn yellow.
Can I put dirt over my drain field?
Never add additional soil over the drain field unless it is a minimal amount used to restore an area that may have been eroded or pulled up by removing another plant. Try not to be overly zealous when tilling the soil for planting. Remember that the drain lines may be as close as 6 inches from the soil surface.
What is the most common cause of septic system failure?
Most septic systems fail because of inappropriate design or poor maintenance. Some soil-based systems (those with a drain field) are installed at sites with inadequate or inappropriate soils, excessive slopes, or high ground water tables.
What will ruin a septic system?
Any paper products like tissues, paper towels, tampons, or sanitary products, even some heavier toilet paper, will clog your system if you flush enough of it. Wet wipes are another product that you should never flush into a septic system.
What is the alternative to a septic tank?
Mound systems work well as alternatives to septic tanks when the soil around your home or building is too dense or too shallow or when the water table is too high. Although they are more expensive and require more maintenance than conventional systems, mound systems are a common alternative.
How Deep Are Septic Tanks Buried? (And How Do You Find It?)
It is possible that this content contains affiliate links. It is possible that I will receive a commission if you make a purchase after clicking on an affiliate link. In addition, as an Amazon Associate, I receive a commission from qualifying purchases.- Septic tanks, for example, might become a requirement in more remote places where some services are not readily available or easily accessible. After all, we rely on contemporary conveniences such as adequate plumbing to make our lives more comfortable and easy.
Discovering the location of your septic tank in your yard, as well as what may be grown near or on top of it, will help you determine how much of your yard is suitable for regular gardening.
You May Not Know
Despite the fact that it appears to be something that every homeowner should be aware of, understanding how deep a septic tank is buried can be difficult to determine. Perhaps you forgot about the septic tank after it was installed years ago, or perhaps you are moving into a house that already has a septic tank constructed in previously. Whatever the situation, determining the depth of your septic tank can be a challenging task under the circumstances, especially if you are unsure of the location of the lids.
How to Locate Your Septic Tank
Perhaps you’re unsure of the location of your septic tank on your property and are attempting to identify it on your own. There are really quite a few quick and simple methods for determining the location of your tank without having to go through a lengthy process. The first method is to follow the path laid out by your sewer lines. Typically, the tank and your drain field will be placed along a line parallel to the sewage line that goes from your property out to the street. Your home’s crawl area or basement may even have a four-inch sewage line that leads away from the structure of the building.
- Follow the pipe all the way across the yard, checking every few of feet to make sure you’re still on the right track, and then turn around.
- When you don’t feel like digging around in your yard, you can always look up your house’s address in the county records database.
- Diagrams with measurements and even the particular location of where the septic tank is located should be included in this document.
- You can also choose to dig your lid out from under it.
- This is what will tell you how many lids are on your septic tank and how many are missing.
- The majority of septic tanks are rectangular in shape and measure around in the neighborhood of 5′ x 8′ in size.
- If you are unable to determine the position of your septic tank using a probe, you will need to do a shallow excavation around the perimeter of the tank using a shovel in order to finally locate the lid.
- First, look for visual cues to help you.
- There is no doubt about it, this will tell you exactly where the tank is located beneath.
- Take a look at the plumbing in your structure, as well as the overall state of the property, to get a good sense of where the tank is situated.
It will be full to just a few inches below the underside of your tank lid when your tank is fully charged to its regular level of filling capacity. If the lid is constructed of plastic, fiberglass, or steel, the upper surface of the lid may have some variation in color or texture.
Where Should the Septic Tank Be Located?
If your property does not presently have a septic tank, but you are interested in the possibility of installing one, it is critical that you understand where it should be installed. Ordinarily speaking, most septic tanks will be situated between 10 and 25 feet away from the house. You should bear in mind that septic tanks cannot and should not be located any closer than five feet from your residence. Using a probe, you may search for flat concrete to determine whether or not a tank has previously been put on a property that you have recently purchased.
Planting Above a Septic Tank
Even though it may not appear to be the finest idea in the world, putting vegetation over a septic tank may really be perfectly acceptable as long as you choose the appropriate plants to grow. Not only is it perfectly OK to do so, but it may also be rather helpful depending on what you are planting and harvesting. It is possible to avoid erosion in your tank with the correct sort of vegetation, and it is even possible to absorb some of the additional moisture that might accumulate in your drain field.
- Perennial plants and grasses (as previously indicated) are the ideal kind of plants to use in and around your drain field and septic tank.
- You can use non-woody ground covers for a similar purpose as you do with woody ground covers.
- Take, for example, the expanding environment.
- If you don’t have access to enough sunshine, you might want to choose a shade garden plant instead.
- Keep in mind that the soil that surrounds the septic tank drain field will typically be wetter than the surrounding soil in the rest of the yard.
- As a result, choose a perennial such as a hollyhock, wild violet, or bee balm to ensure that you cover all of those bases when planting.
- A septic system beneath these plants does not imply that deer will avoid the area because of its presence on your property.
- Something like a spring bulb or an attractive grass that the deer aren’t generally interested in eating.
Plants That You Don’t Want to Grow
Just because you have the option of planting over your septic tank does not mean that everything is appropriate for this situation. A few plants should be avoided at all costs while landscaping around your septic tank, particularly huge trees that are known for their rapid growth. On the same vein, shrubs and trees with aggressive root systems are some of the worst plants to grow around your home. These roots will shoot out in quest of water, and they will not be concerned with where they locate it.
The infiltration of those roots into your septic drain field might result in catastrophic damage to your septic tank and drain field.
It’s possible that you’ll need a complete replacement.
Many other plants have strong root systems that you should avoid growing anywhere near your septic tank or drain field, and there are lots of them.
How Your Septic System Works
It is possible that understanding how your septic system operates may help you better manage, maintain, and care for it. Aside from that, it is just a large tank buried in the ground that collects your waste (which is true, but still). In remote locations, there may be a deficiency in sewage infrastructure. Because not every rural location is the same, it is not a given that septic systems will be required in your local rural area. The septic tank, in any case, serves as a form of wastewater treatment facility when there are no sewage lines available.
- The tank is designed to be waterproof, ensuring that your wastewater does not leech into the surrounding environment.
- Solids sink to the bottom of the container, scum rises to the top of the container, and liquids sit in the center of the three levels described above.
- The wastewater that is being discharged from your home is the cause of the exit.
- This liquid is carried out of your home through a pipe and into a bigger portion of your sanitary sewer system.
- Your drain is typically comprised of a network of perforated PVC pipes that are put underground in trenches to collect water and waste.
- Because the drains are perforated, the wastewater is allowed to seep out into the crushed gravel or stone, and then eventually into the surrounding soil.
- The natural evaporation process will then take care of any surplus moisture in the soil, unless you do something to prevent the water from flowing out of the pipes.
How to Plan a Septic Field
The tank is only one component of the whole equation. You’ll also need a drain field to catch all of the liquid waste that will be generated. When you are planting around your septic tank, the drain pipes are the most significant source of worry. Having those aggressive roots infiltrate and ruin your septic drain system is the very last thing you want. When this occurs, it can prevent your septic tank from emptying correctly and potentially cause it to get contaminated by groundwater. According to a solid rule of thumb, the less horticultural labor you have to do in close proximity to your septic tank, the better.
Just remember that they must be planted every year, so keep that in mind while planting them.
The first step is to fill in the septic drain field with earth.
In the second instance, too much mulch is being applied to the area in question. The third issue is that you may be watering your plants more than you should be. All three of these factors can impair the capacity of your drain field to evaporate in a typical manner.
Septic Tank Design Depth – how deep should the septic tank be located
- When establishing a septic tank, you may ask a QUESTION or make a COMMENT regarding how deep the septic tank should be located.
When establishing a septic tank, you may ask a QUESTION or make a COMMENT regarding how deep the septic tank should be.
Septic Tank Installation Depth
Table of Contents for the Article Series
- SEPTIC TANK DESIGN DEPTH- this article
- SEPTIC TANK DESIGN DEPTH
- SEPTIC TANKDRAINFIELDFREEZE PROTECTION
How Deep Should WePutthe Septic Tank at Original Installation?
Septic tanks may be built almost anywhere in the soil, regardless of its depth. When operating in a freezing climate, even in uninhabited homes, it is unlikely that the septic tank serving an occupied home or even an unoccupied one will freeze. This is due in part to latent heat received by the septic tank’s bottom from earth, in part to heat generated by bacteria in the septic tank, and in part to warm wastewater entering from a building served by the septic system, and in part to warm wastewater entering from the building served by the septic system.
You’ll kill the bacteria, damage the drainfield, and taint the surrounding ecosystem as a result of this.
Factors Determining Septic Tank Depth
The following are the primary elements that influence the actual depth at which a septic tank is likely to be buried (and, consequently, the depth to which you may have to dig to locate the septic tank) at a specific site:
- The following are the primary elements that influence the actual depth at which a septic tank is likely to be buried (and, consequently, the depth to which you may have to dig in order to locate the septic tank) in a specific location:
A service riser should be put in deep septic tanks to provide access to the tank. Plungers are large-diameter “wells” that are installed over the entrance and/or outlet ports of a septic tank in order to provide simple access for tank pumping, inspection, and baffle repair. Plungers are also used for septic tank pumping, inspection, and baffle repair. If the septic tank is sunk more than a few inches below the surface of the earth, good practice calls for the installation of a septic riser, which is a high diameter pipe that allows for easy access to the septic tank for inspection and cleaning.
Continue reading atSEPTIC TANK DEPTH to learn how to determine the depth of a septic tank’s cover, or choose a topic from the closely-related articles listed below, or see the completeARTICLE INDEX for more information.
Alternatively, consider the following:
Septic Tank Articles
- The following topics are covered: SEPTIC DRAINFIELD LOCATION
- SEPTIC DRAINFIELD SIZE
- SEPTIC SYSTEM INSPECTION LEVELS
- SEPTIC TANK COVERS
- SEPTIC TANK DESIGN STRENGTH SPECS
- SEPTIC TANKDRAINFIELDFREEZE PROTECTION
- SEPTIC TANK, HOW TO FIND
- THE DISTANCE TO THE SEPTIC TANK
- FINDING THE MAIN WASTE LINE EXIT
- POSITIVE SEPTIC TANK LOCATIONS
- SEPTIC TANK COVERS
- SEPTIC TANK DEPTH
- SEPTIC TANK DESIGN DEPTH
- SEPTIC TANK LOCATING EQUIPMENT
- SEPTIC TANK RISERS
- SEPTIC TANK GRASS OR SNOWMELT
- DISTANCE TO SEPTIC TANK
- FIND THE MAIN WASTE LINE EXIT
- POSSIBLE SEPTIC TANK LOCATIONS
- SEPTIC TANK COVERS
- SEPTIC TANK DEPTH
- SEPTIC TANK DESIGN DEPTH
- SEPTIC TANK LOCATING EQUIPMENT
- SEPTIC TANK LOCATION SKETCH
- SEPTIC TANK RISERS
- SEPTIC TANK GRA
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INDEX to RELATED ARTICLES:ARTICLE INDEX to SEPTIC SYSTEMS
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How Deep Should a Septic Leach Field Be?
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It is critical to appropriately size a septic system’s drain or leach field, as an inadequately sized field might result in serious complications. Waste puddles appearing on your lawn are just one of the issues that might arise, therefore it’s crucial to grasp the fundamentals of how a drain field works. Although you are not required to become an expert in septic systems, a little information may go a long way toward ensuring that your drain field is in good operating condition.
The final depth of a septic system’s drain field is determined by a variety of factors. Drain fields, on the other hand, are typically between 2 and 5 feet deep.
How the Drain Field Works
Solid waste is contained in your septic tank until it is pumped out, which is the final step in the process. The bacteria found in that trash, on the other hand, is far more mobile in nature. As part of the septic process, solid waste is removed from your tank and deposited at the bottom of your tank, while wastewater (together with the bacteria it contains) is discharged from your tank and into your drain field. Once there, the water percolates through the soil and eventually joins the local groundwater supply system.
- In the long run, bacteria are eaten by microbes in the soil.
- This is a significant project that necessitates the establishment of correct soil conditions, including the selection of the appropriate drain fieldsize and depth.
- Typically, a completed bed comprises 12 inches of gravel below the pipe and additional 2 inches of gravel on top of the pipe.
- The end product is a drain field that is approximately 3 to 4 feet deep.
- This type of circumstance might be caused by underground impediments.
- High groundwater tables have the potential to accomplish the same thing, necessitating the installation of a drain field capable of filtering germs at a deeper depth in order to avoid pollution.
Occasionally, this is accomplished by making the drain field shallower, but wider or longer in length. In other cases, a mounded or elevated drain field will be required to prevent flooding.
Drain Field Width and Length
If you have more than one bedroom in your house, your septic system designer will figure out what size drain field you’ll need based on the number of bedrooms you have. In addition, the designer will take into consideration the zoning regulations, soil conditions, and the peculiarities of your lot while designing your home. According to many towns’ regulations, for example, your drain field must be at least a set distance away from your property line. The setbacks from streams, marshes, water supply lines (including local water wells), and other possible barriers are also defined by municipal construction standards.
In addition, pipes are frequently spaced 6 feet apart from one another.
The fact that they are spaced 6 feet apart, on the other hand, provides for the addition of more pipes at a 3-foot spacing if necessary in the future without enlarging the total footprint of the drain field.
It is then decided how this pipe should be laid out in relation to the amount of land available for the leach field to be used.
How Deep Is A Septic Tank?
Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links, which means that if you purchase a product after clicking on one of our links, we may receive a commission or free product from the firms featured in this post. Amazon is a good illustration of this. Septic tanks are tanks that are built below the surface of the ground. The depth of the tank is determined by a variety of elements that are taken into consideration during the tank’s installation. It is vital to know the depth of a septic tank, especially when access is required for pumping or inspection of the tank.
So, how far down does a septic tank go?
They are generally rectangular in design and measure 5 by 8 feet in dimensions.
CALL 855.925.0760 FOR SEPTIC SERVICES
We would like to make you aware that this post contains affiliate connections, which means that if you purchase a product after clicking on one of our links, we may get compensation. Amazon is an example of this. Sewage treatment plants are built beneath the surface of the ground. It is necessary to take into consideration a number of criteria when determining the depth of the tank during its installation. When access to a septic tank is required for pumping or inspection, it’s important to know how deep it is.
To what depth does a septic tank go, you might wonder.
They are generally rectangular in design and measure 5 by 8 feet in overall length.
For further information about septic tank depth, such as if it is necessary to have the septic tank below the frost line in order to lessen the likelihood of freezing and what occurs if the septic tank is deeply underground, please continue reading this article.
CALL 855.925.0760 FOR SEPTIC SERVICES
This is determined by elements such as the kind of soil and geology in which it is constructed. Another consideration is the depth of the sewer pipe leading out from the property. Similarly, in cold areas, the latent heat from the earth, along with the bacterial activity of the sewage, keeps the water from being frozen. Any septic tank should not be buried too deeply underground, since this might cause harm to it and prevent it from performing its intended purpose. Here are a few examples of such elements that have been well explained:
- The presence of a high water table makes a deep septic tank an unwise choice in these circumstances. It is possible that extra soil will be required in order to improve absorption. It results in the formation of a mound, which can function as an above-ground drainfield.
- Type of Soil– The type of soil and the amount of organic matter in the soil influence the depth of the septic tank. High water tables are frequent in clay-rich areas, and they are especially prevalent in the southwestern United States. Professionals can assess the composition of the soil and make recommendations for the depth of the septic tank based on their findings.
- Site Characteristics– As you plan your system, your contractor will be able to evaluate the characteristics of your property. Drainage patterns, water bodies in the area, and slope are all included in this type of study. They can calculate the optimal depth of the septic tank based on these considerations.
- Tank Kind– The type of tank also has an impact on its performance. There are several different types of septic tanks available, some of which may contain up to 2 to 3 feet of earth on top. As a result, if the tanks are placed significantly deeper, the manufacturer’s guarantee will be violated.
CALL 855.925.0760 FOR SEPTIC SERVICES
A riser should be constructed in septic tanks that are located deep in the ground. Risers are large-diameter tubes that are commonly referred to as ‘wells.’ These are installed directly above the input baffle access point for the septic tank. This is often where the outlet is located. The major reason for installing it is to make it easier for specialists to get to the pump when they arrive to work. Professionals require access to perform services such as baffle repair, inspection, septic tank pumping, cleaning, and other tasks.
This pipe has a big diameter, which allows for convenient access to the tank for pumping and inspection purposes.
How to Find the Septic Tank Lid Deep Below the Surface?
Following these procedures will assist you in determining the depth of your septic tank lid, which will assist you in determining the depth of your septic tank lid:
- You must look for the locations where pipes are exiting your home. This will be located in the basement area. So simply keep an eye on where these pipes are leading. You only have to walk 10 steps from your home. Septic tanks are typically located roughly 10-20 feet from your front door
- You may inspect them with a steel probe if necessary. This should be a maximum of 5 feet in length. Make use of it to drive into the earth. You will be able to feel the location of the septic tank
- Nevertheless, you must use caution so as not to harm the lid. It is possible to puncture it if you are not careful. The first cap is normally found in a grassy area, and if it is punctured, it will cost a lot of money to repair it, so be careful not to puncture it. This is generally located towards the edge of the tank
- The tank’s general width is six feet
- And you may now go back to your front door. You should be able to identify the other cap after only 6 feet of walking. You will receive the discharge cap after taking two steps.
Questions Related to How Deep is a Septic Tank
The lids of septic tanks are often situated around the ground level. The lids are often buried anywhere from 4 inches to 4 feet deep, depending on the situation.
- It is important to understand what happens if a septic tank is installed excessively deep.
It is not suggested to put a septic tank at a location that is too deep. If it is implanted too deeply, it is possible that it will malfunction on a regular basis. It is possible that effluent may backlog on a regular basis and will not naturally flow into the drainfield.
- Whether I am allowed to drive over the septic tank, which is buried underground
No, you should never drive over a septic tank, even if you are aware that it is buried deep down. In a short period of time, driving over the tank will damage its surface, causing it to crack, and cause it to stop operating.
- Anyone who can tell me what the depth of my septic tank is, please.
a person who can tell me how deep is the bottom of my septic tank;
- How can I find out if there is a problem with my septic tank, which is buried deep underground?
It is advised that you have your septic tank tested on a regular basis in order to spot problems early on. Furthermore, if you notice any indicators of a septic tank problem, such as a bad odor or sewage backup, it is time to have it checked. If you are unsure about the depth of your septic tank, you can get assistance from a septic tank professional. They can assist you in discovering the lid of the tank much more quickly, regardless of how deep the lid is hidden. The depth of the septic lid is typically 5 feet, however this might vary depending on the depth of the tank.
CALL 855.925.0760 FOR SEPTIC SERVICES
A septic system is made up of two lengths of pipe that are connected together. Initially, it runs from the house, where the system services are located, to a tank, where the waste is separated and solids settle out. The second section runs from the tank to the drainage field, where fluids from the tank are dispersed into the earth underneath the tank.
The process of installing the first run of pipe is quite similar to that of installing a traditional sewage line. It is necessary to maintain a downhill slope to the storage tank.
Locating the Septic Tank
The tank serves as the nerve center of the septic system. It is required to be situated between the residence and the drainage field. Each and every septic installation must begin with a soil test, and depending on the results, soil conditions may necessitate the placement of the tank in a less-than-ideal site for digging sewer lines. Also required are minimum setback distances from property borders, functioning wells, surface water and other obstructions to provide a safe working environment.
A standard septic tank has a 4-inch intake at the top, which is positioned towards the bottom. Ideally, a 1/4-inch-per-foot slope toward the pipe from the house should be maintained by the pipe connecting to it. To put it another way, for every 10 feet of distance between a tank and a home, the inlet must be 2 1/2 inches lower than where the pipe departs the house at its lowest point. The pipe usually exits at ground level, although it may need to pass beneath a foundation footing or concrete pad in rare cases.
Digging the Trench
The trench for the septic pipe should be dug before the hole for the tank since you will need a backhoe to complete the work and the tank will get in your way if it is already in the ground. To allow rainfall to drain properly, the pipe should be placed on a 2- or 3-inch bed of drain rock, so remember to account for this extra depth when digging. It is normal to use a four-inch pipe, and it should be installed far enough down to link with the main soil stack, which is a three-inch pipe that runs vertically past the main bathroom and through the roof of the home.
Local building and health agencies will demand permits for a septic tank installation. You will also be required to submit a design plan before the permits will be provided, so prepare ahead of time. This layout should be developed in collaboration with a local builder who is familiar with the unique characteristics of the topography in your neighborhood. Stay away from planting trees or plants near the tank, drainage field, or any of the pipe systems. They will be drawn to the pipes in their hunt for nutrition, and their roots will be able to successfully block them.
Removal may be both expensive and time-consuming.
What size of septic tank do I need?
Probably one of the last things on your mind when you are constructing a new house is the location of your septic system. After all, shopping for tanks isn’t nearly as entertaining as shopping for cabinetry, appliances, and floor coverings. Although you would never brag about it, your guests will be aware if you do not have the proper septic tank placed in your home or business.
septic tanks for new home construction
The exact size of the septic tank is determined mostly by the square footage of the house and the number of people who will be living in it. The majority of home septic tanks have capacities ranging from 750 to 1,250 gallons. A 1000 gallon tank will most likely be required for a typical 3-bedroom home that is smaller than 2500 square feet in size. Of course, all of this is dependent on the number of people who live in the house as well as the amount of water and waste that will be disposed of through the plumbing system.
For the most accurate assessment of your septic tank needs, you should speak with an experienced and trustworthy sewer business representative. They can assist you in planning the intricacies of your septic system, including which sort of septic system will be most beneficial to you.
planning your drainfield
Here are some helpful hints for deciding where to locate your drainfield when you’re designing it.
- Vehicles should not be allowed on or around the drainfield. Planting trees or anything else with deep roots along the bed of the drain field is not recommended. The roots jam the pipes on a regular basis. Downspouts and sump pumps should not be discharged into the septic system. Do not tamper with or change natural drainage features without first researching and evaluating the consequences of your actions on the drainage field. Do not construct extensions on top of the drain field or cover it with concrete, asphalt, or other materials. Create easy access to your septic tank cover by placing it near the entrance. Easy maintenance and inspection are made possible as a result. To aid with evaporation and erosion prevention, plant grass in the area.
a home addition may mean a new septic tank
Vehicles should not be allowed on or near the drainfield. Planting trees or anything else with deep roots near the drain field’s bed is not recommended. Clogged pipes are frequently caused by the roots of plants; Downspouts and sump pumps should not be drained into the septic system; and If you want to tamper with or change natural drainage characteristics, do so after researching and evaluating the impact on the drain field. Do not construct extensions on top of the drain field or cover it with concrete, asphalt, or other similar materials.
Easy maintenance and inspection are made possible as a result of this; To aid with evaporation and erosion prevention, plant grass in the soil.
- Vehicles should not be permitted on or around the drainfield. You should avoid planting trees or anything else with deep roots near the drain field’s bed. The roots block the pipes on a regular basis
- Downspouts and sump pumps should not be drained into the septic system. If you want to tamper with or change natural drainage features, do so after researching and evaluating the impact on the drain field. Do not construct extensions over the drain field or cover it with concrete, asphalt, or other similar materials. Create easy access to your septic tank cover by placing it near a door. This makes maintenance and inspection much simpler. Plant grass to aid with evaporation and erosion prevention
how to maintain your new septic system
Septic tank cleaning and septic tank pumping services are provided by Norway Septic Inc., a service-oriented company devoted to delivering outstanding septic tank cleaning and septic tank pumping services to households and business owners throughout the Michiana area. “We take great delight in finishing the task that others have left unfinished.” “They pump, we clean!” says our company’s motto. Septic systems are something we are familiar with from our 40 years of expertise, and we propose the following:
- Make use of the services of a qualified specialist to develop a maintenance strategy. Make an appointment for an annual examination of your septic system. Utilize the services of an effluent filter to limit the amount of particles that exit the tank, so extending the life of your septic system. Waste items should be disposed of properly, and energy-efficient appliances should be used. Make sure you get your septic system professionally cleaned every 2 to 3 years, or more frequently if necessary, by an experienced and qualified expert
- If you have any reason to believe that there is an issue with your system, contact a professional. It is far preferable to catch anything early than than pay the price later. Maintain a record of all septic system repairs, inspections, and other activities
common septic questions
Here are some of the most frequently asked questions by our septic customers.
How do I determine the size of my septic tank?
If you have a rectangular tank, multiply the inner height by the length to get the overall height of the tank. In order to find out how many gallons your septic tank contains, divide the number by.1337.1337
How many bedrooms does a 500-gallon septic tank support?
The exact size of the septic tank is determined mostly by the square footage of the house and the number of people who will be living in it. The majority of home septic tanks have capacities ranging from 750 to 1,250 gallons. A 1000 gallon tank will most likely be required for a typical 3-bedroom home that is smaller than 2500 square feet in size.
How deep in the ground is a septic tank?
Your septic system is normally buried between four inches and four feet underground, depending on the climate.
Indiana Septic System Installation and Permit Procedure Guide
See mySeptic Inspection Page for more information on my inspection services. The following are the five steps involved in establishing a new septic system in Indiana:
- My Septic Inspection Page contains information about my inspection services. Indiana septic system installation consists of five phases, as follows:
Step One – On-Site Evaluation: In Indiana, the majority of county health offices demand an assessment of the soil by a soil scientist. Soil scientists use a hand auger to carefully evaluate your soils to a depth of 5-6 feet, which allows them to get a better understanding of them. During this inspection, s/he will pay close attention to the soil texture and structure, as well as any signs of a seasonal high water table, inadequate filtration, or compacted till. This information is then utilized by your local health agency to calculate the bare minimum criteria for septic systems in accordance with local and state septic rules.
If this is something that you are interested in, please consider joining them in your backyard.
In Indiana, each county health department is responsible for providing rules for residential septic systems.
Please keep in mind that certain counties may also perform their own soil borings!
In this section, I’ve included some Indiana County Health Department contact information for your convenience. An alphabetical list of Indiana Soil Scientists can be foundHERE. Septic system regulations that you will obtain from your county sanitarian will contain information such as the following.
- System Type, System Size, Trench Depth, Perimeter Drain Requirements, Septic Tank Size, Dosing Tank Size are all important considerations.
Phase Three: System Design: The third and last step in your septic system journey is the system design. My detailed septic system designs have aided hundreds of homeowners, excavators, and builders through the septic system installation process. The design of the septic system is the most significant aspect of the entire procedure! There are several advantages to having a design that is exact, thorough, and well thought out:
- Making wise design decisions might help you save money. Reduces the complexity of the permitting and bidding processes
- Excavators all submitted bids based on the same plan. Due to the fact that the system is designated on site, the excavator has an easier time installing it. The design identifies each and every component of the system. Because of this, an unethical excavation company will not try to “save money” by employing subpar materials. All elevations and bench marks for the system are provided, ensuring a flawless installation. During new construction, the contractor who pours the walls, the excavator, and the builder all work from the same blueprint. There is a reduction in the likelihood of costly blunders
- Effluent/sewage pumps that are properly sized guarantee that they operate within their design parameters, allowing them to operate for much longer periods of time. You, the homeowner, are the owner of the design and the building permission. Before a permit may be obtained, the Health Department demands a design, which must be approved by them.
For additional information, please see my services page or my commercial design page. Permitting and System Bids are the fourth and final step. The septic permit will be issued once the design and application have been accepted by the Health and Human Services Department. Counties have varying policies about when an application should be filed to the state. Applications are filed with soil boring reports from soil scientists, while others are submitted with a design, depending on the circumstances.
The permit has now been approved based on the design that was submitted; the next step is to obtain estimates for the system’s installation.
All that is required of you is to sit back and wait for friendly excavators to contact you with price information.
The following are some of the questions that a contract should provide answers to:
- For additional information, please see the pages about my services and commercial design. Permitting and System Bids are the fourth and final steps. The septic permit will be issued once the design and application have been accepted by the Health and Human Services Agency. Each county has its own set of rules on when an application must be submitted. Applications are filed with soil boring reports from soil scientists, while others are submitted with a design, depending on the situation. Obtaining particular information on the policy of your county should be done once more. The permit has already been approved based on the design that was submitted
- Now it is time to solicit estimates for the system’s installation. At no additional expense, I will give you with several copies of the design (for you to distribute to others) and, if you so like, I will collect bids on your behalf by submitting the design to three excavators of your choosing. It’s simply a matter of waiting for friendly excavators to contact you with price information. Make certain that you and your excavator have a comprehensive contract agreement in place. The following are some of the questions that a contract should provide answers for:
Installation and inspection of a septic system is the fifth step. The day of installation has finally arrived, and we are overjoyed! The excavator has completed the installation of your system and is now awaiting approval from the health authorities before backfilling. Your yard has now become a lot greater disaster than you could have ever anticipated. It would look as though an entire battle was waged inside the limits of your own backyard. Make an effort to psychologically prepare for this.
Following that, your local county health department sanitarian will do a septic examination on your property.
- Installation and inspection of a septic system are the next two steps. Finally, the day has arrived for the installation to take place! He has completed the installation of your system and is currently awaiting approval from the health authorities before beginning backfilling the area. Everything in your yard has turned into a far greater disaster than you could have ever anticipated. Seriously, it would look as though a whole battle was waged inside the bounds of your own backyard. Make an effort to psychologically prepare yourself for this situation. Yoga may be quite beneficial if done correctly. Following that, your local county health department sanitarian will do a septic examination on your home. A lengthy list of items that the inspector will be evaluating is provided below: General:
Gravity sewer running between the house and the septic tank is comprised of the following components:
- In a 4′′ diameter pipe, the minimum fall is 4′′ in 25′ and the greatest slope is 36′′ in 24′ (in a 4′′ diameter pipe). Acceptable is the pipe’s schedule (specifications), or is it not? Are pipe joints properly prepared and cemented together?
If you are using a 4′′ diameter pipe, you may expect to see a minimum fall of 4′′ in 25′ and a maximum slope of 36′′ in 24′. What is your opinion on the pipe’s schedule (specifications)? Ensure that all pipe joints are properly prepared and bonded.
- Ensure that the septic tank is at least ten feet away from the home. Is the tank equipped with the required inlet and outlet baffles? Check to see if your tank is the right size. Is there a riser that connects the tank to the ground surface? Was the tank filled to the proper level? Whether or not the tank’s inlet and exit pipes are linked to it in a watertight manner
- The tank and riser look to be watertight, therefore check for a watertight seal between them
- The tank itself appears to be watertight.
Effluent Sewer System:
- Sewage Effluent:
Effluent Sewerage System:
- Is the D-box setting at a comfortable level? Is there a tee or elbow fitted at the entrance of the D-box to prevent the inlet flow from becoming obstructed? Does the D-box appear to be stable (when placed on solid ground)? Are there any unwelcome critters making themselves at home in there?
Trench Header Pipes: Trench header pipes are pipes that run along the top of a trench.
- The pipes meet all of the required specifications. Are the pipes level with the trench laterals or do they have a slope to them?
- Is the level of all trench bottoms consistent along their length? Is the stone the proper size (.5′′ – 2.5′′) and clean, and is it in good condition? Ensure that the perforated lateral pipe meets all applicable specifications. Is there 6 inches of stone under the pipe and 2 inches of stone above the pipe? Has geotextile cloth been placed over the stone to block the dirt from getting through
Dosing Tank (also known as the pump tank):
- Is the tank of the proper size and capacity? Was the tank filled to the proper level? Are you sure you have the proper pump installed (in accordance with the approved design)
- Whether or not the electrical connections are built in a gas-tight manner. Are the on/off floats properly configured? Is there an audible and visible alarm system in place? Is the connection between the intake and output watertight? Is there a riser to the ground surface that is large enough to allow the pump to be serviced? Is there a check valve and a weep hole in the system? Is the major driving force behind a suitable specification
- Whether or not there is a watertight seal between the tank and the riser
- Is there a second lid on the container? Is there a slope in the force main that allows the water to flow back to the dosing tank between doses?
Drainage along the perimeter:
- The drain must be at least 2 feet deep and have a minimum slope of 100 feet from the point of inlet to the point of exit. Is the drain system encircling the system or is it only on one side of the system? Was the drain trench properly backfilled with the appropriate material and at the appropriate depth? The pipe at the bottom of the trench should not rise and fall in the trench in an incorrect manner. Whether or not the tile has an outlet to another tile, and whether or not that tile is free flowing. If the tile has an outlet to a ditch, does it have an outlet that is higher than the average high water mark in the ditch? If the tile outlets to the roadside ditch were approved by the County Highway Department, it is possible that the tile outlets were installed without authority. The County Surveyor’s Office gave authorization to connect the tile outlets to a county-regulated drain or ditch if they were connected to a county-regulated drain or ditch.
Inspection of the Mound System:
- Is the soil wetter than the permissible level of moisture (plasitc limit) for plowing? Is the mound on a sloping plane? Is there a slope in the force main that allows the water to flow back to the dosing tank between doses? Is the plow layer up to the task? Furrows were turned up the slope. Has it been tested to meet the sand highway standard 23 (as required by code)
- Was the sand applied in such a way that it did not get compacted? Is the gravel cleaned and clean (diameters ranging from 0.5′′ to 2.5′′)
- Are the force main, laterals, and manifolds of a specification that is permitted
- Are you going to run the pump through a squirt test to make sure it’s the right size? A geotextile cloth was put on the top of the gravel bed to protect it. In your opinion, was the final cover enough (6′′ of clayey textured soil topped with 6′′ of loamy textured soil)
- Whether or not the mound maintains a maximum slope of 3:1. Was the mound planted and shielded from erosion in any way?
Once the system has been examined and authorized, a representative from the health department will give some form of permission ticket and then go for lunch. If there are any infractions, the county sanitarian will leave a letter explaining what has to be done to correct the situation. If the inspection is not authorized, the sanitarian from the health department will need to return for a follow-up inspection. Excavator will cover up system with approval letter (also known as a green tag) in hand and swiftly ask you for any money that is still owed to the company.
Services provided by Meade Septic Design Inc. Meade Septic Design, Inc.’s Commercial Clients and Projects may be viewed here. Do you have any queries about septic systems? Please get in touch with me!
How to Install a Septic System
Documentation Download Documentation Download Documentation In rural regions of the nation where waste water treatment is not accessible, private on-site wastewater treatment systems (POWTS), also known as septic systems, are utilized largely to treat waste water. Gravity fed/conventional systems are divided into two broad categories: 1. gravity fed/conventional systems and 2. alternative (pump) systems, which include aerobic treatment units (ATUs.) In most cases, electric pumps are used in alternative systems.
However, in many health jurisdictions across the United States, it is still feasible for an individual property owner with heavy equipment operation skills to utilize a backhoe to establish a septic system on their land.
- Read More About ItRead More About It In rural regions of the nation where waste water treatment is not accessible, private on-site wastewater treatment systems (POWTS), also known as septic systems, are utilized largely to treat wastewater. Gravity fed/conventional systems are divided into two broad categories: 1. gravity fed/conventional systems and 2. alternative (pump) systems, which include aerobic treatment units and other components (ATUs.) Electric pumps are commonly used in alternative systems. Because of the possible harm to the environment posed by contamination of the watershed, this project is advised for a professional with relevant experience. However, in many health jurisdictions around the United States, it is still possible for an individual property owner with heavy equipment operation skills to build a septic system with a backhoe.
- The following are some of the conclusions from the site survey that have an impact on the design:
- Available space
- Intended purpose and projected water demand depending on the size of the residence or building that the system will serve
- Location of the well and/or nearby wells
- And other factors.
The following are examples of soil test findings that have an impact on the design:
- The soil type and layering (sand, clay, rock, and where it is placed in relation to depth)
- The soil’s ability to drain and filter wastewater
- And the soil’s ability to drain and filter wastewater
The kind and layering of the soil (sand, clay, rock, and where it is placed in relation to depth); the soil’s ability to drain and filter wastewater; and the soil’s capacity to drain and filter wastewater are all important considerations. Please keep in mind that the following procedure assumes that the system is being installed for the first time and not as a replacement.
- 1 Assemble all of the equipment and tools that will be used in the dig. You will require the following materials:
- Backhoe, laser transit, and grade pole are all included. A 4″ Sch. 40 PVC pipe (and fittings, if necessary)
- A 4″ ASTM D2729 perforated pipe
- A 4″ASTM D3034 pipe and fittings
- A 4″ Sch. 40 vent cap and test cap
- PVC primer and adhesive
- A 4″ Sch. 40 vent cap and test cap The following tools will be required: Saw (either hand saw or cordless reciprocating saw)
- Hammer drill and bits (for drilling through walls if necessary)
- The following items are required: hydraulic cement (to seal surrounding pipe if pipe is going through wall)
- Stone measuring an inch and a half and cleaned (amount varies depending on system size)
- Tape measurements (both ordinary and at least a 100-foot-long tape)
- Septic fabric (cut to 3′ length or less from a roll)
- Septic tank and risers (concrete or plastic if allowed)
- Riser sealant such as Con-Seal (for concrete) or silicone caulk (for plastic)
- A septic filter (such as a Zoeller 170 or similar) if one is necessary
- A distribution box (either concrete or plastic, if more than two laterals are being run)
- And a septic tank.
2 Determine the location of where you want to enter the building in relation to where you want to install the septic tank. Make an excavation at least 2 feet deep and drill a hole through the wall, or go deeper and drill a hole beneath the footing, depending on your preference or the need. Because this is precisely what a gravity-fed system is designed to accomplish, expect the flow to continue to flow downhill from here. When transferring waste from the tank to the drain field, it does not employ any mechanical methods other than gravity.
- The pipe should be 4″ Sch. 40 and should extend at least five feet outside the structure toward the tank, either through the wall or beneath it. Set it level where it will pass through a wall or under a footing, and from there, run it with approximately 1/8″ of pitch (slope) every foot of length toward the septic tank until it reaches the tank. If necessary, go even farther into the tank or all the way into the tank. If this is the case, switch to 4″ 3034 with the necessary adaptor and pipe toward the tank with 3034 instead.
- Make sure you use a test cap on the end that will be entering the building. It is recommended that if you are going through a wall, you seal the area around the hole with hydraulic cement both inside and outside
- Do not run too much pitch out to the tank. If there is an excessive amount, the water will run away quicker than the sediments, resulting in the solids remaining in the pipe. Additionally, depending on the depth of your drain field and how close it will be to the tank’s outflow, there may not be enough pitch to get to the drain field.
3 Dig a hole large enough to accommodate the installation of the concrete aerobic tank below ground. Make use of the laser transit to “shoot” the top of the pipe that leads out to the tank with the laser. The distance between the top of the intake and the bottom of the tank is measured in feet and inches. To the number you fired off the top of the pipe, add this (go up on the grade pole) + 1 1/2″ to get the total. The depth of the grade pole has now been adjusted to the desired depth. Using this, dig the hole to the desired depth.
- Prepare your leech field by laying it out and excavating it according to the results of the test performed during the permit application procedure. Maintaining a good flow between the tank and the drain field should be considered when planning out and digging the tank.
4Use “inch-and-a-half cleaned drain rock” from a neighboring gravel dump to surround the pipe, which is required in most areas. This is necessary in order to keep the pipe stable. For further information on the size of embedment and gravel required, check with your local health department. There is no slope from one end of the perforated pipe to the other in a gravity drain field, and the pipe has capped ends. 5 Once you have received a green sticker from the health inspector, you must cover the pipe and tank.
All places, subject to the restrictions of the local health authority, will be required to cover the drain rock with a specific filter fabric, newspaper, four inches of straw, or untreated construction paper before backfilling. Advertisement
- A pump chamber after the septic tank should be installed The pump chamber, also known as a pressure tank, dosing tank, or dosing tank, is where the electric pump is housed, which is responsible for transporting effluent from one location to another and finally into the drain field for disposal.
- Set up the pump chamber in the same manner as you would a septic tank. The effluent pump and floats are housed in the pump chamber, and they are responsible for pumping the effluent out to the drain field at predetermined or scheduled intervals. This is a hermetically sealed system. To ensure that the electrical installation complies with state standards, it is frequently necessary to hire a qualified electrician. It is important to remember that in places with high groundwater, the pump chamber or additional ATUs may remain essentially empty for long periods of time, and that these tanks may need to be safeguarded from floating by the installation of additional weight or other protective features.
All construction details, including the layout of all sewers outside the home, the location and depth of all tanks, the routing and depth of pressurized effluent lines, and other system components such as the drain field and any additional ATUs, must be consistent with the septic system plans approved by the county health department. 3 Once the inspector has given his final permission and the system has been started, cover the tank and pressurized lines with plastic sheeting. Advertisement Create a new question
- Question I had a tank put, but it isn’t level with the ground. What will be the ramifications of this, and should it be leveled? It is necessary to keep the tank level. It is difficult to predict what it will have an impact on because we do not know which direction it is off level. Question Is it necessary to be concerned about tree roots growing into the drainage area when using a gravity flow kind of tank? Whether or whether you have lateral lines is dependent on the kind of trees that are growing close or above them. Tree species that tend to extend roots into the lateral lines and obstruct them are known as ramifications. Due to the fact that they are buried deep in the ground and surrounded by a pocket of gravel that allows waste water to drain out, they are rarely affected by grass, weeds, and shrubs. Question What is the maximum depth that a pipe may be lowered into the leech bed? The majority of systems require 12 volts “in the form of rock The perforated pipe should be suspended in the top area of the rock
- It should not be touching the rock. Question Maintaining a lush green grass on or above your pitch is it safe, or is it a good practice? According to what I’ve heard, brown or dead grass is preferred so that your field can breathe more easily. It is necessary for your field to take a breath. The presence of green grass across your field indicates that it is functioning well. With lush grass covering your field, it will be able to breathe. There should be no planting of woody shrubs or trees over the leach field. Question What is the recommended distance between the septic tank and the house/boundary? A minimum of fifty feet is required. States have different laws, but this is the most common distance
- Nonetheless, other states have stricter laws. Question What is the average amount of soil that goes into a residential leach field? It is dependent on how chilly it becomes. There are no less than 12 in the northern United States “in the leach field’s surface
- Question Is it possible to build a septic system during the cold months? What you should do will depend on whether or not you reside in a place where the ground freezes. Question What amount of water should I put in the tank to get it going? None. A typical tank holds 1,000 gallons and will fill up quite quickly if used on a regular basis. When liquid effluent is discharged to the drain field, the goal is to catch and pre-treat particles that have accumulated. It is possible that a pump system will require water to prime the pump. Question There is a misalignment between my septic field’s underground line and the pipe on the tank. Is it OK to utilize a 90-degree elbow on my septic tank? As long as you have decent downhill flow, you should be fine. Instead of using a 90, I would use two 45s. Question If I’m installing a septic system, when should I contact an inspector? Immediately following system installation but before earth is used to cover the system in place Always check with the inspector ahead of time to verify that they can satisfy your inspection needs
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- The use of aerobic bacterial additions (which are available at most DIY stores) to maintain a healthy and well functioning system, as suggested by producers on a periodic basis, is contentious. The septic tank is an anaerobic (wet) environment in which the majority of yeasts and other additions will have little or no effect on the sewage being processed. When it comes to installing septic tanks, some old school installers believe that placing an additive, a shovel of muck, or even a dead cat in an empty tank will “start” the process. What naturally enters the tank serves as the only thing that is necessary. The aerobic (wet or dry) component of the system consists of hundreds of square feet of drain field, where additives will do little help even if they make it all the way to the end of the system. The use of chemicals in septic systems has not been the subject of an independent research that has been published in a respectable scientific publication anywhere in the world, including this nation. This will mostly certainly be confirmed by your local health department. Each phase of the building process will almost certainly include an examination by a health inspector before the work can be completed or covered up. On pressurized lines, the use of a sand embedment is recommended in order to reduce the amount of damage caused by moving soil that has a high concentration of clay. When pumps are turned on and off, pressurized lines might move as well. Four inches (10.2 cm) of sand bedding on all four sides of the lines will prevent sharp pebbles from the ground or backfill from wearing holes in the pipe over time
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- Keep the perforated pipe for the leech field in a vertical position while installing it to avoid having the holes in the pipe turn downward. It is necessary to lay the perforated drain field pipe ASTM 2729 dead level, so that the printed line on the pipe is facing up. The perforations on both sides of the pipe are on both sides of the pipe. All of the sections of perforated pipe are cemented together, and the ends of each leach line are capped to complete the installation. So, when waste water enters the pipe, it will fill the pipe to the height of the perforations and overflow from ALL of the holes, utilising the whole leach field as a means of treatment. In certain health authorities, you can utilize waste water to water grass or decorative plants, trees, vegetable gardens, and fruit trees if you place the perforated pipe on a slope. However, the water must first be cleaned by the system (tertiary treatment includes disinfection) in order to prevent pathogens (germs) from the septic system from being discharged into the environment throughout the process. Make sure to check with your local health authority to verify if the practice known as “reuse” is permitted in your community.
Things You’ll Need
- The following tools are required: backhoe tractor, trencher, shovel, contractor’s laser level and rod, or a surveyor’s transit. Septic tanks
- PVC pipe with perforations
- Material for embedding
- PVC adhesive, PVC fittings, and a septic tank outlet filter are all included. Hand saw
- Course file
- Sandpaper If necessary, effluent pumps and floats are installed. If an alternate system is used, a control panel is installed.
About This Article
Contractor’s laser level and rod or a surveyor’s transit are required tools. Backhoe tractor, Trencher, Shovel Sewage treatment systems; PVC pipe with perforations Materials for embedding; An outlet filter for the septic tank, as well as PVC glue and fittings. Tools: hand saw, course file, etc. pumps and floats for effluent if required a control panel, if there is a backup system