How close can a proposed house addition be from a septic system? – A full foundation must be 10 feet from the septic tank and 20 feet from the leaching area. – A slab foundation such as a garage must be 10 feet from the septic tank and 10 feet from the leaching area.
- – A full foundation must be 10 feet from the septic tank and 20 feet fromthe leaching area. – A slab foundation such as a garage must be 10 feet from the septic tank and 10 feet from the leaching area. – Concrete columns for a deck must be 5 feet from the leaching area and not disturb the septic system.
How far should a septic tank be from a foundation?
Local codes and regulations that stipulate the distance of the septic tank from the house vary depending on the locale, but the typical minimum distance is 10 feet.
Can I build next to septic tank?
It is never recommended to build a structure over any portion of your septic system. No permanent structures should be built over any portion of the system, but at least in this case the homeowner can pump out their septic tank.
How far below the surface is a septic tank?
Septic tanks are typically rectangular in shape and measure approximately 5 feet by 8 feet. In most cases, septic tank components including the lid, are buried between 4 inches and 4 feet underground.
How close to a septic tank can I build a pool?
Installing an inground pool has greater restrictions and will probably need to be installed at least 15 to 25 feet away from the septic tank or leach lines, depending on your county’s code requirements.
How close to a septic tank can I build a deck?
It is usually not a good idea to build a deck near or on top of a septic tank. Most zoning ordinances will require that you maintain at least a 5′ setback from an underground septic system.
Can I build a porch over my septic tank?
You should never build a deck over a septic field; doing so will prevent the natural draining and dissipation of the effluent. This can ruin the septic system, not to mention releasing foul smells into the air all around your deck. The dissipating effluent can also rot the deck from underneath.
Can you put a garden over a septic field?
Planting over a septic leach field (drain field) is possible if it is done with care. If you have limited space on your property where you can garden, the leach field may be the only spot for landscaping. Vegetable gardening over a leach field is not recommended.
Can you build a patio over a leach field?
A common question homeowners ask when building a patio is, “can you build a patio over a septic field?” The answer to this question is no. The reason for this is that the weight of the concrete in the foundation will cause too much pressure on your septic system and can lead to flooding or a damaged septic tank.
Can you sell a house with a septic tank?
If you currently have a septic tank that discharges to surface water then the sale will trigger the requirement to replace or upgrade the system. Buyers should satisfy themselves that any system is in good working order and does not cause pollution.
How many lids are on a septic tank?
A septic tank installed before 1975 will have a single 24-inch concrete lid in the center of the rectangle. A two-compartment tank installed after 1975 will have two lids of either fiberglass or polyethylene, centered at opposite ends of the rectangle.
How deep are drain fields buried?
A typical drainfield trench is 18 to 30 inches in depth, with a maximum soil cover over the disposal field of 36 inches.
What is the minimum depth of a sewer line?
Building sewers that connect to private sewage disposal systems shall be a minimum of 36 inches (914 mm) below finished grade at the point of septic tank connection. Building sewers shall be a minimum of 36 inches (914 mm) below grade.
Building Near and Over Septic Tanks
Posted on a regular basis In most cases, minimum setback rules imposed by the Texas Commission on Environmental Equality (TCEQ) preclude the building of a new residence from occuring over any point of an existing sewage disposal system. Foundations, pools, property lines, wells, and other structures must be kept at a certain distance from the septic tank and drainfield in order to meet these setback requirements. It is possible that some homeowners will install objects such as patio decks or house additions over their systems, whether by accident or design.
Building over septic tanks
Construction of a building over any section of your septic system is not recommended. The most typical issue we see is when someone wants to pump out their septic tank but is unsure of where their tank is situated on their property. Tanks hidden beneath a hardwood deck, pool patio, driveways, or even room extensions are not unusual for us to discover and investigate. The majority of the time, this occurs because the homeowner is uninformed of the tank’s location and/or does not have a plan in place for future tank maintenance.
However, in this scenario, the homeowner will be able to pump out their septic tank because no permanent constructions should be constructed over any component of the system.
Building over drainfields
In order for the drainfield to function, water in the solids and some evapotranspiration must be absorbed. In order for bacteria in the soil beneath a drainfield to treat wastewater from a drainfield, the soil beneath the drainfield must have sufficient oxygen. However, if a permanent structure is constructed over a drainfield, it has the potential to reduce the amount of oxygen that can be absorbed by the soil and hence reduce evapotranspiration. The potential of causing the drainfield lines to collapse is a significant concern when constructing over them.
Depending on the age of your system and the restrictions of your local authorities, repairing or shifting your drainfield may need the installation of a whole new system.
We can assist you with any of your wastewater system needs, and our specialists can also assist you with your septic installation and maintenance requirements: 210.698.2000 (San Antonio) or 830.249.4000 (Austin) (Boerne).
How Far Should You Put the Septic Tank From the House?
Image courtesy of Kwangmoozaa/iStock/Getty Images.
In This Article
- Amount of distance from the home
- Basic safety concerns
- Suggestions for a successful installation
For those who don’t have access to a municipal sewage system, an alternate solution, such as a septic tank and field lines, will be required.
The design and operation of these systems are fairly straightforward. When designing a septic system, you must keep in mind the requirements of local construction codes as well as public health concerns.
Depending on where you live, local ordinances and regulations that specify the distance between the septic tank and the home vary. However, the normal minimum distance is 10 feet between the two structures. Consult your local ordinances and regulations for a detailed answer as to how far your septic tank must be installed from your home. Requirements differ from one location to the next, although the standard minimum distance from the home is 10 feet in most cases. In the case of a private well for drinking water, however, keep in mind that many state departments of health demand a minimum distance of 50 feet between a new septic tank and a well.
It is possible that the septic tank will be placed considerably closer to the structure since it will be easier and require less plumbing in some cases.
Basic Safety Considerations
If you’re the type of person who prefers to do things on their own, there are certain important measures you should take before starting this endeavor. Before you start digging the hole for the tank, call your local utility providers to find out where the service lines are located. A gas line, water line, phone line, or electrical connection that has been severed is not only potentially dangerous, but it may also be extremely expensive to repair. Once you have finished excavating the hole, proceed with caution.
It’s also important to understand that a concrete septic tank can weigh up to 5 tons.
Make sure the hole is available when the tank is delivered so that it can be installed straight in the desired location.
Tips for a Successful Installation
Plan ahead of time to get your water supply switched on prior to installing your septic tank. You must fill the tank with water as soon as it is placed in its final position for this to be possible. This has absolutely nothing to do with the septic system itself, but it is a prudent precaution. In the event of a heavy downpour, the groundwater may swell and a septic tank may float out of the ground, even if it has been buried. If this occurs, contact a qualified professional immediately. Repairing any damage done to the lines or to the tank itself, as well as putting the tank back in its original location, may be a costly and time-consuming endeavor.
Initially, you may be confident that you will remember the exact location of the marker when it is time to top up the tank — which is generally every three to five years — but your memory may fade over time.
In the absence of a marker, you may end up digging holes in the wrong place when it is time to service the tank.
How close to a septic tank can you build?
It is necessary to have a full foundation at least 10 feet away from the septic tank and 20 feet away from the leaching area. It is necessary to have a slab foundation for a structure such as a garage 10 feet away from the septic tank and 10 feet away from the leaching area. Concrete columns for a deck must be placed at least 5 feet away from the leaching area so that they do not interfere with the septic system. It is not recommended to construct a structure over the septic tank or the leach field.
- Anything that has accumulated on top of the tank would have to be removed in order to allow for pumping and repairs.
- In the same way, where should a septic tank be located?
- In a similar vein, you can wonder how far apart septic lines should be placed.
- The answer is that, thankfully, it is possible to connect the plumbing systems of two separate units to the same septic tank.
How Remodeling Can Affect Your Septic System
Building near a septic tank and drain field may have a negative impact on the performance of any septic system, and it is easy to ignore this while upgrading a property. This is also true for people who are considering purchasing a property and intend to remodel it. It is preferable if you are aware of the exact location of your tank and drain field. This will prevent new construction projects from interfering with the normal maintenance of your system or causing damage to your septic tank. Before beginning on any big job that may include your septic system, make sure you have a solid understanding of septic systems under your belt.
It is an excellent resource that can help you feel much more confident about owning, maintaining, and renovating in close proximity to a septic system.
Building Near aSeptic Tank
What may possibly happen if you fail to locate your system? It is possible that your septic tank is in the route of a huge construction truck. It would be the least of your worries if your septic tank lid were to break. Cracks in the septic tank may be caused by the weight of building equipment on the site. It is possible that these will not be apparent soon after the event. Cracks will grow with time, however, and will pose a major structural threat over time. In most cases, a tank is clearly marked in some way to make it easier to locate.
This will guarantee that the driver is aware of the exact location of the tank and that the tank has enough space to move about.
In addition to causing damage to your tank, construction may prevent a pumper from entering the tank.
This not only makes it difficult to locate the tank, but it also makes it difficult, if not impossible, to maintain it.
If you have a deck or patio that prevents access to the tank, you may be forced to demolish the building, squandering the money you invested on its construction.
Building Near aDrain Field(Leach Field)
If a drainage field is destroyed, the expense of replacing it might be significantly higher. The most serious problem that might occur from building near a drain field is the damage that heavy construction equipment can inflict to the drain field. The weight of a large number of heavy trucks moving over a drain field will shatter the pipes in the drain field and compress the soils beneath the trucks. Compacted dirt in a drain field will impair the ability of the drain field to drain effectively.
Without any air pockets to fill, the effluent will be pushed to rise towards the surface of the soil, where it will eventually pour out onto the ground.
A few instances of how construction near a drain field might potentially result in a problem are shown below.
Problems Building Near a Drain Field
- Building an in-ground pool would almost certainly need a permit, but it is critical that it be located away from your drainfield. The most obvious issue would be if you were to cut into your drainage system. However, even approaching too close might cause soil compaction in the surrounding area, reducing the life expectancy of the drain field. An above-ground pool adds a significant amount of weight to the earth. It is common to see sheds built on top of leach fields because the water that drains out will soak down into the drainfield and add a significant amount of water. While it is possible that the weight of the shed could cause some soils to contract, it is also likely that traffic from machines would increase. Larger sheds and pole barns should be maintained away from drainfields at all costs. They are unquestionably large and heavy enough to cause issues. They are also large enough to accommodate heavy vehicles, which will further exacerbate the situation. Some individuals choose to build gardens on top of the drain field to beautify the area. Make certain that you are not growing anything with roots that are large enough to penetrate the pipes. In most cases, there is a two-foot layer of dirt cover, but this might vary. When in doubt, it’s advisable to be careful and move the garden to a different location. Fence posts are commonly found in and around gardens. Make certain that the posts are not too large that they are digging into the drain field stone (aggregate). It is possible that huge posts or poles that are buried too deeply will pose an issue. Decks, flagpoles, and huge fences are examples of structures that might cause this. When a septic tank is replaced, it is possible that a leach field will be harmed. The big trucks required to transport the concrete septic tank will have a negative impact on the soils. A plastic septic tank is an excellent solution for completely avoiding the problem. Because they are small and lightweight, they can be carried by hand.
Having established the dangers associated with developing near your septic system, we can go on to discussing ways to avoid any difficulties from arising in the future. The most effective technique of preventive is to be aware of the locations of each component of your system.
How to Locate Your Septic System
Keeping track of where your system is at all times might be a challenge. A large number of consumers only get a glimpse of the entire system during the house purchasing inspection process. In the event that you still have access to your report, it may contain information on the system’s location, as well as a 2-D drawing of the system’s layout. We will provide photographs with our report in order to provide a more accurate reference for the location of the system components. The option to have someone come out and find your system is always available if you have misplaced your report.
Building near a septic tank and drain field can be hazardous, so exercise caution and use common sense while constructing any structure in the vicinity.
How close can a deck be to a septic tank?
Asked in the following category: General The most recent update was made on the 7th of February, 2020. – A slab foundation for a building such as a garage must be at least 10 feet away from the septic tank and 10 feet away from the leaching area. – The deck’s concrete columns must be at least 5 feet away from the leaching area and must not interfere with the septic system. In most cases, it is not a good idea to construct a deck near or on top of an aseptic tank. You will be required to maintain a minimum of a 5′ setback from an underground septic system under most zoning regulations.
- It is also possible to inquire as to how much weight may be placed on top of a septic tank.
- When taking this into consideration, how near can you construct to a septic tank?
- When building a carport or other slab foundation, the distance between the septic tank and leaching area must be 10 feet or more.
- What is the maximum distance between a drain field and a septic tank?* Yoursepticsystem site plan is normally created directly on top of your property survey, indicating the septic tank’s setbacks from the house and the tank’s location.
the garden should be 5-10 feet away from the home, the leach field should be at least 20 feet away from the house, at least 100 feet away from wells and streams, 25 feet away from dry gulches, and 10 feet away from the property
How far away from a septic tank can you build?
However, while the requirements will differ from one place to another, the standard minimum distance from the home is 10 feet. Most of the time, the contractor will excavate for the septic tank and system at the same time as he digs the footings for the home foundation. A slab foundation, such as a garage, must be 10 feet from the septic tank and 10 feet from the leaching area. – A complete foundation must be 10 feet from the septic tank and 20 feet from the leaching area. Concrete columns for a deck must be placed at least 5 feet away from the leaching area so that they do not interfere with the septic system.
- OverFieldLines are being constructed.
- This comprises residences, barns, and various sorts of storage structures, among other things.
- *How distant is the leach field, in relation to the septic tank?
- Theleach field is about 5-10 feet away from the home.
- What is the distance between the septic tank and the house?
How close can you build a home addition to a septic tank system in Florida?
A septic system cannot be situated closer than 5 feet from the foundation of a house or the foundation of a manufactured home. However, while sidewalks, decks, and patios are not subject to the 5 foot limit, you are not permitted to place a drainfield beneath them. Any tank located underneath a driveway must have a lid that has been constructed by a Florida-licensed engineer to withstand the expected traffic load. The following is an extract from the Florida Administrative Code that is relevant: 64E-6.005 (2) Unless property lines abut utility easements that do not contain underground utilities, or unless recorded easements are specifically provided for the installation of systems for service to more than one lot or property owner, systems shall not be located under buildings or within 5 feet of building foundations, including pilings for elevated structures, or within 5 feet of mobile home walls, pool walls, or within 5 feet of property lines.
- (a) Sidewalks, decks, and patios are exempt from the 5 foot setback requirement; however, drainfields are not permitted to be placed beneath these types of buildings.
- Concrete constructions that are intended to be erected over a septic tank must have a barrier of soil or plastic material placed between the structure and the tank in order to prevent the structure from adhering to the tank.
- as well asDoes it make sense to upgrade my septic tank when I plan a house addition?
- See the following blog pages for further information about SEPTIC TANK SYSTEMS: When it comes to gray water reuse in Florida, what are the requirements of the building code?
- What is it about septic tank contractors that makes them urge you to get rid of your garbage disposal?
- Is it necessary to re-certify a septic tank after a residence has been empty for a period of time?
- How frequently should I get my septic tank pumped?
- What happened to the septic tank?
- It is possible for a house to have more than one septic tank.
If the washing machine drain is diverted to a nearby piece of ground in the yard, is this permissible? You may find further relevant blog entries on this subject by visiting ourSEPTIC TANK SYSTEMSpage or by using theINDEXfor a comprehensive listing of all our articles.
How a Septic System Works – and Common Problems
This Article Discusses Septic Tanks are a type of septic tank that is used to dispose of waste. Field Sizing and System MaintenanceProblems with the Leach FieldSystem Performance Questions and comments are welcome. See Also: Septic System Frequently Asked Questions Articles on SEPTIC SYSTEM may be found here. In locations where there are no municipal sewage systems, each residence is responsible for treating its own sewage on its own property, which is known as a “on-site sewage disposal system,” or septic system, more popularly.
One of the most commonly seen types of leach field is composed of a series of perforated distribution pipes, each of which is placed in a gravel-filled absorption trench.
The wastewater is collected in the septic tank once it has been discharged from the residence. Septic tanks are normally between 1,000 and 2,000 gallons in capacity and are composed of concrete, strong plastic, or metal, depending on the model. Highly durable concrete tanks, which should endure for 40 years or more provided they are not damaged, are the most common. Many contemporary tanks are designed with two chambers in order to maximize efficiency. Household wastewater is collected in the septic tank, where it is separated and begins to degrade before being discharged into the leach field.
- In the tank, oil and grease float to the top of the tank, where they are known as scum, while solid waste falls to the bottom, where they are known as sludge.
- Bacteria and other microorganisms feed on the sediments at the bottom of the tank, causing them to decompose in an anaerobic (without oxygen) process that begins at the bottom of the tank.
- Solids and grease must be pushed out of the system on a regular basis in order for it to continue to function effectively.
- Each gallon added to the tank results in one gallon being discharged to the leach field, leach pit, or other similar treatment facility.
A large amount of water delivered too rapidly to the tank may discharge untreated effluent, along with oil and particulates, into the leach field, where it may block the field and cause a backup.
When used properly, a leach field (also known as a “drain field”) is a series of perforated pipes that are typically buried in gravel trenches 18 to 36 inches below grade — deep enough to avoid freezing, but close enough to the surface that air can reach the bacteria that further purify the effluent (see illustration below). As little as 6 inches might separate you from the ground surface, depending on your soil type and municipal regulations. It is customary to cover the perforated pipes with approximately two inches of gravel and a layer of topsoil that is 18 to 24 inches in depth.
- Grass is often sown above the ground.
- The leach field is comprised of rows of perforated pipes in gravel trenches that are used to spread wastewater over a vast area in order to further purify it.
- A bacteria-rich slime mat forms where the gravel meets the soil, and it is responsible for the majority of the water purification work.
- Despite the fact that wastewater freezes at a far lower temperature than pure water, freezing is still a hazard in cold areas.
- The leftover pathogens are converted into essential plant nutrients by these organisms, while sand, gravel, and soil filter out any solids that remain.
- If the system is operating effectively, the filtered wastewater will return to the aquifer as naturally clean water that is suitable for human consumption at this stage.
- Alternative systems may be permitted in situations when traditional leach fields are unable to function properly owing to poor soil conditions or a high water table.
- Special systems may also be necessary in regions where there are flood plains, bodies of water, or other ecologically sensitive areas to protect against flooding.
SIZING THE LEACH FIELD
Using perforated pipes put in gravel-filled trenches, the drain field is sized to accommodate the number of beds in the house. In order for the system to function successfully, the leach field must be appropriately sized for the soil type and amount of wastewater, which is normally determined by the number of bedrooms in the house. In order for the liquid to seep into the soil, it must be permeable enough to do so. As a result, the denser the soil, the larger the leach field that is necessary.
- Better to have surplus capacity in your system than to have it cut too close to the bone.
- Septic tank backup into your house, pooling on the surface of the earth, or polluting local groundwater are all possibilities if the ground is incapable of absorbing the liquid.
- Dense clay soils will not absorb the liquid at a sufficient rate, resulting in a backlog.
- If the soil is mostly composed of coarse sand and gravel, it might drain at such a rapid rate that untreated sewage can poison the aquifer or damage surrounding bodies of water.
- Alternative systems may be permitted in situations when traditional leach fields are unable to function properly owing to poor soil conditions or a high water table.
These systems sometimes cost twice or three times as much as a regular system and require significantly more upkeep. Near flood plains, bodies of water, and other ecologically sensitive places, special systems may also be necessary to protect people and property.
SEPTIC SYSTEM CAREMAINTENANCE REQUIRED
If you take good care of your system, you will be rewarded with years of trouble-free operation. Pumping the septic tank on a regular basis is necessary to remove the particles (sludge) and grease layer (scum) that have built up in the tank. The solids will ultimately overflow and spill into the leach field, decreasing its efficacy and diminishing its lifespan if this is not done. The rehabilitation of a clogged leach field is difficult, if not impossible; thus, constant pumping is essential!
- Cooking fats, grease, and particles may also wash into the leach field if the tank is too small for the amount of water being used or if the tank is overcrowded on a regular basis.
- Extra water from excessive residential consumption or yard drainage can overwhelm the system, transporting oil and particles into the leach field and causing it to overflow.
- In addition, don’t try to complete a week’s worth of laundry for a family of five in a single day.
- To minimize overburdening the system, the following measures should be taken:
- Distribute your washing loads and other high-water-use activities across the week
- And In the kitchen and bathroom, use low-flow appliances, faucets, and fixtures. Toilets, in general, are the source of the greatest amount of water use. Water should be diverted away from the leach field from the yard, gutters, and basement sump pumps.
In addition, refrain from flushing sediments, strong chemicals, and just about anything else down the toilet or sink other than biological waste and white toilet paper. Avoid using garbage disposals in the kitchen. If you really must have one, keep it for small non-meat bits only. Avoid flushing chemicals or paints down the toilet since many chemicals can destroy beneficial microorganisms or cause water contamination in the surrounding area. Avoid flushing the following down the toilet:
- Grease, fats, and animal scraps
- Paints, thinners, chemicals, and pharmaceuticals
- And a variety of other materials sanitary napkins, tampons, and other supplies Paper towels and disposable diapers are examples of such products. Egg shells, coffee grounds, and nut shells are all good options. Antibacterial soaps and antibiotics are available.
It is preferable to put grass over the leach field and to refrain from driving or parking in the vicinity. Excessive weight placed on top of the drain field might compress the earth, diminishing its efficiency as a drain field. Drain lines can also become clogged by trees and plants with invasive roots. In order to prevent damage to the leach field, the following measures should be taken:
- Heavy machinery should not be driven, parked, or stored on top of the leach field (or septic tank). Placement of a deck, patio, pool, or any other sort of construction over the leach field is prohibited. Remove any large trees or other plants with deep roots from the leach field. Grass is the most effective groundcover.
Even with careful use and routine maintenance, however, leach fields are not guaranteed to survive indefinitely. It is inevitable that the soil will get saturated with dissolved elements from the wastewater, and that the soil will be unable to absorb any more incoming water. The presence of an odorous wet area over the leach field, as well as plumbing backups in the house, are frequently the first indicators that something is wrong. Many municipalities mandate septic system designs to incorporate a second “reserve drain field” in the case that the first field fails.
A well constructed and maintained system should last for at least 20 to 30 years, if not longer than that. After a few tears, the initial field will naturally heal and may be used once again when the situation calls for it to be. More information on Septic System Maintenance may be found here.
SEPTIC SYSTEM PERFORMANCE PROBLEMS
Poor original design, abuse, or physical damage, such as driving heavy trucks over the leach field, are the root causes of the majority of septic system issues. The following are examples of common situations that might cause a septic system to operate poorly: Plumbing in the home. obstructed or insufficient plumbing vents, a blockage between the home and the septic tank, or an insufficient pitch in the sewer line leading from the house are all possible causes. Sewage tank to leach field connection Septic tank and leach field blockage caused by a plugged or broken tank outlet, a plugged line leading to the leach field caused by tree roots, or a blockage caused by solids that overflowed from the tank Piping in the leach field.
- Most of the time, tree roots do not make their way through the gravel bed and into the perforated pipe.
- Reduced flows, achieved through the use of flow restrictors and low-flow faucets and fixtures, may be beneficial.
- Because of the seasonal high water table, the soil around the trenches can become saturated, impairing the soil’s ability to absorb wastewater.
- This may frequently be remedied by adding subsurface drains or curtain drains to intercept the water flow into the leach field region and to lower the water table in the immediate area around the drainage system.
- Likewise, see: In order to do a perc test, who should I hire?
- Is It Possible for Septic Systems to Last a Lifetime?
- Performing an Inspection on a Septic System When Is the Best Time to Take a Perc Test?
- Examination of the WellSEPTIC SYSTEMView allSEPTIC SYSTEMarticles Return to the top of the page
The Dangers of a Damaged or Leaking Septic System
There are certain distinctions in care, usage, and budgeting that you should be aware of, whether you’re a new homeowner with an existing septic system or considering about purchasing or building a home without sewer hookups. This document outlines three ways in which your budget will be affected if your wastewater is treated using a septic system. 1. You will not be required to budget for municipal sewer service. Because the municipal wastewater system normally processes all of the water, the cost of city sewage service is sometimes determined by how much water you purchase from the city.
- A large number of homes with septic systems also rely on wells for fresh water rather than municipal water, which means you’ll likely save money in that department as well.
- It is necessary to include septic maintenance in your budget.
- Although you are not required to pay the city for the usage of your septic system, you will be responsible for the costs of maintenance if you want the system to continue to function properly.
- It is possible that these maintenance and repair expenditures will build up over time, so you may want to consider setting up an emergency fund to cover any unforeseen repair bills.
- You’ll also need to budget for the cost of a single inspection and begin saving for the cost of a tank pump.
- Spreading the expenditures out over several months is the most effective budgeting strategy, even for an expense such as tank pumping that does not occur every year, because it allows you to better estimate the costs ahead of time.
- You may need to set aside money for septic tank replacement.
The tank and leach field may not need to be replaced if you have a reasonably recent septic system and plan to sell your home within a few years.
If, on the other hand, your home’s septic system is more than a decade old, you’ll want to start looking into how much a replacement system will cost you as soon as possible.
For example, if the previous owners did not do routine maintenance or if the system was installed on clay soil, the system may need to be replaced.
It is a prudent decision to begin putting money aside in anticipation of this eventuality.
When you have a septic system, you may use these three strategies to budget differently.
Make an appointment with us right away if you’re searching for someone to pump out your septic tank or to complete an annual examination of your septic system. Our experts at C.E. Taylor and Son Inc. would be happy to assist you with any septic system assessment, maintenance, or repair needs.
Locate Your DrainfieldYou know your septic system drainfield is out there� but just where is it? It is important to locate it so you can avoid damaging it by:
- Building a road over the drainfield
- Parking or operating heavy equipment on the drainfield
- Planting trees or bushes in close proximity to a drainfield is prohibited. Creating soil disturbances through a landscaping project or the presence of cattle
In addition, knowing where your drainfield is located allows you to inspect the drainfield for symptoms of trouble, such as damp soil and foul aromas. You should obtain a copy of the record sketch for your particular system. It is a diagram that shows where the various components of your septic system are placed. This diagram was previously referred to as a “as-built” or “record drawing.” You can obtain further information by contacting the Thurston County Permit Assistance Center (PAC) at 360-786-5490 or by downloading the Request for Record Drawing/Permit Information form.
SW in Olympia, Washington (PAC Hoursof Operation-LimitedHours Please Check Before You Leave).
This is the tax identification number that appears on your county tax bills.
(If you do not know your tax parcel number, contact the County Assessor’s office.) The level of detail and quality of the record drawings varies substantially.
a more recent diagram will indicate the tank, drainfield, replacement area (which will be used in the future if a replacement field is required), and any additional components of your system, such as a pump chamber or mound It is also possible to record the dimensions of the tank and the length of the drainfield lines.
- If you don’t water your grass in the late summer, you may notice green stripes in your yard as a result. These are the regions that are prone to flooding along the drainfield pipes. When it is cold outside, the regions above your pipes may be the first spots where frost melts in your yard. Do you have any ports for monitoring or clean-outs? These are tubes or pipes with a white cap that are cut off at or near the ground level. Drainfield pipes include liquid level indicators that are situated at the ends of the pipes, which allow you to monitor the amount of liquid in the pipes. Examine the regions leading away from the septic tank with great caution. Avoid the use of heavy steel wrecking bars or other probing equipment that might cause damage to the septic tank top or other components of the system. Take note of any signs you see, such as shallow, parallel depressions that may indicate drainfield trenches. The installation of a drainfield among huge trees or in particularly rough terrain is quite unlikely. Examine the area beneath the home where the sewer line emerges from the foundation. The septic tank is typically located within 10 feet of the foundation
- However, this might vary. Engage the services of a competent business to send down echo-locators
For more information on troubleshooting problems,contact the Septic Help Line at 360-867-2669.